Engine idles too high?

1999 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
189,000 MILES • V8 • 2WD • MANUAL
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JCCDS.PRESCOTT
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Engine idles high in hot weather but not every time truck is started, I can shut it off, restart the engine and somtimes it will return to a normal idle. Its never done this in cold weather just 2 summers in a row.
Jul 24, 2010 at 8:05 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Has the check engine light come on?

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

let us know.
Jul 24, 2010 at 11:04 PM
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JCCDS.PRESCOTT
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No the check engine light has never come on.
Jul 25, 2010 at 11:26 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It sounds like a problem with the idle air control valve or the throttle position sensor, but without a code, I can't be 100% sure which one.
Jul 26, 2010 at 1:05 AM
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CHOOCH1
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When starting truck when it is cold or warm, it does not switch off of high idle. When driving for awhile it still does not switch off, once you put it in park it is still on high idle at about 1200rpm. I clean the carburator and idle control valve and it still does not change anything.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:15 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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-Check/Test the throttle position sensor and look for vacuum leak-also clean out the throttle body/plate-inspect accelerator linkage/cable-Also go to this link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

Jun 18, 2020 at 1:15 PM (Merged)
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BCOUNTRY699
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I have a 97 chevy k1500 with a 5.7 litre vortec.. I have had the truck for 5 years and it has never had a cat converter since i have had it. It has always ran fine with no service engine light on. Recently the light came on and ever since it will not shift into overdrive and when it is warm and I go to start it, the engine will idle high , around 2000 rps, if I shift into drive it will die..if i wait till the idle slowly drops to about 9 or 800 rpms then it will go and i can drive it..however gas mileage is completely gone! horrible gas mileage. I took it to a parts store and they said it was Ho2 sensor on bank 2 sensor 2. However i was told by a mechanic that i trust to be very knowledeable that an o2 sensor is going to be a waste of money without a catalytic converter...He said it could be a map sensor. Can you help me diagnose this so I dont have to take it in or throw away lots of money on parts I dont need please??
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:15 PM (Merged)
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CARADIODOC
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Diagnostic fault codes never say to replace parts. The guys at auto parts stores are in the business of selling parts and that's what they jump on first. In fact, those codes only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. The place to start is by finding out the exact code description or number. There are about a half dozen different codes related to any one oxygen sensor and they mean entirely different things. The downstream sensors report on how well the catalytic converters are doing their job. You don't change the messenger if you don't like the message. The code will tell you if there is a problem with the operation of the sensor or whether it's simply reporting an unacceptable condition.

The fuel / air mixture is adjusted by the Engine Computer based on readings from the front oxygen sensors. The mixture can only be adjusted up or down about ten percent over pre-programmed values. If your fuel mileage is down considerably you have some other problem, including a vacuum leak, and the oxygen sensor is picking that up.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:15 PM (Merged)
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BCOUNTRY699
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I went to oreilly auto parts and they plugged into the truck to see what codes it was throwing..the trouble code is P0161....Code defintion says...Heated oxygen sensor (bank 2 sensor 2) - Circuit malfunction. However as I said..I asked a mechanic who I have past experience with that has never steered me wrong and he says that without a catalytic converter it doesnt matter. However like I said the engine light was never on before and the converter has been out of there for years and it ran fine. Hope you can help.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:15 PM (Merged)
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CARADIODOC
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You mean the catalytic converters are physically removed from the exhaust system? Who did that job?

The way the system works is the Engine Computer makes the fuel / air mixture too rich, then too lean. It switches back and forth about two times per second with the average being perfect. During the lean periods the unburned oxygen is stored in the catalyst, then during the rich times the unburned fuel is mixed with the oxygen and burned. The front oxygen sensor reports on how well the mixture is responding to the computer's control.

When the converter is working correctly the exhaust gas coming out of it will be a little lean for a long time, then a little rich for a long time. The switching rate is very slow, as in perhaps once a minute or two. When the catalyst starts to lose its efficiency the mixture takes less time to switch from rich to lean so the switching rate increases to maybe twice a minute. As the efficiency decreases even more, the switching rate speeds up more. When there's no change taking place in the composition of the exhaust gas the switching rates of the front and rear O2 sensors will be the same. That switching rate of the downstream sensor is what the computer looks at to determine how well the converter is working and when to set a fault code. The converters have nothing to do with engine performance unless they become plugged. Too much raw fuel going into the exhaust will overheat them and melt the material into a glob. The Check Engine light will flash when too much fuel is going into the converter. That's your warning to stop the engine right away before that damage occurs.

If you don't have the converter in the system the computer is going to set the efficiency code. That will cancel some of the other self tests performed by the computer so there can be a pile of other problems that won't be detected. The computer initiates things like momentarily going too lean to see if the converter responds as expected. When it has a fault code in memory, it knows it can't rely on that sensor as an accurate reference, so those tests won't run.

Code 161 is not an efficiency code. It means there's a problem with the heater circuit for that sensor. Usually that means a cut wire or corroded terminal in the connector. The heater could be burned out too but that is not very common.

All '96 and newer vehicles have this "OBD2" (on-board diagnostics, version 2) emissions system with upstream and downstream oxygen sensors, and catalytic converters between them, but that applies to cars and trucks sold in the U.S. If you're in a different country you may have the older emissions system but then you wouldn't have a downstream sensor. Your mechanic can connect a scanner to view live data that will show the switching rates of the converters. If the downstream sensors are switching very slowly, you have catalytic converters in the system and just didn't recognize them.

If someone removed them, the only thing I can suggest is to install replacements, check the wiring to the rear sensor on the passenger side, erase the stored fault codes, then see what new codes are set. There are well over 1000 potential fault codes. About half of them have to do with something that could potentially cause an increase in emissions, and those are the ones that must turn on the Check Engine light. About half of THOSE will result in high fuel consumption. Without a code to direct you to the circuit or system that's causing the excessive fuel usage you don't know if that is the cause, as in a leaky injector, or if it's the result, as in a vacuum leak that the computer is trying to correct for extra unburned oxygen in the exhaust. Without a code to get you started there are way too many things to check. Even on older vehicles with only a few dozen potential codes you could spend countless hours testing everything.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:15 PM (Merged)
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VICKIAA
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WHEN YOU START THE TRUCK IS LIKE THE ENGINE IS RACING. I PUT A NEW IDLE SENSOR ON IT. I PUT NEW MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. DISCONECTED THE SENSOR AND IT STILL RUNS HIGH. IF ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM PLEASE HELP.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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FIXITMR
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in order to idle high it has to be getting air from somewhere. is the throttle plate completely closed?
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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If the throttle plate is completely closed-look for a vacuum leak
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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SAVE OUR SPORT
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hi, i recently bought a very good conditioned truck but there was only one problem, it idols really low. it idols at about 500 rpm's. as soon as u start the truck up it will rev up to about 900 then back down to about 2-300 rpm's and sometimes it will even shut off but then after about 3 sec of being started it will maintain a low idol at about 500. i dont know if u can turn the idol up so any help would be awesome.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Have the coolant temperature sensor/idle air control valve/throttle position sensor. Somewhere within the throttle body -you can adjust the mininum air screw to raise the idle.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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GOODOLEBOY92
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Im trying to get my truck running right, it has a miss. it misses while idleing but once warmed up it seems to idle fine, but while driving the truck it seems like once in 3rd gear and up it doesnt have the power it should have and misses while giving more fuel, what could be the cause of this
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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JOHNNYT73
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Do you have a check engine light? any codes?
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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GOODOLEBOY92
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No check engine light I don't thing. Either my dash don't light up all the way or one just ain't showed up. So not sure.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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GOODOLEBOY92
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I've changed the spark plugs and wires both. The guy I bought it off said he just put a new timing chain on. So it may not b that. At least I hope. Not sure how long its been since he did but he said he did when he had the truck. I was thinking it could b fuel related maybe a fuel pump. Or a sensor n the truck. Or maybe even the distributor. I don't want to have to put all this money into it but afraid I'm gunna end up doing it.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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JOHNNYT73
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I would do a fuel pressure test.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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HSV_MIKEJ
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My 1995 C1500 5.7 TBI 5-spd has a problem. When I first crank it, I will see an service engine light for about 30 seconds then it goes out. The truck will idle about 1000 RPM, until I start to drive, then the idle will hold at about 1900 RPM. I've looked for loose vaccuum lines but could not find any loose ones. I do have an aftermarket chip installed, but the problem is there even with the stock chip.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/259862_ramfrnt2_1.jpg

Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Hi hsv_mikej and welcome to 2carpros

1995 Chevy Silverado 1995 C1500 350 5-spd fast idle problem

Scan the computer for DTC's

Too fast an idle speed. If an engine without computerized idle speed control is idling too fast and refuses to come down to a normal idle speed despite your best efforts to back off the carburetor idle speed screw or air bypass adjustment screw (fuel injection), air is getting past the throttle somewhere. Common leak paths include the carburetor and throttle body gaskets, carburetor insulator spacers, intake manifold gaskets, and of course, any of the engine's vacuum fittings, hoses and accessories. It is even possible that leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals. Another overlooked item can be a worn throttle shaft and a defective idle speed speed control motor/valve stuck in the extended (high idle speed) position/throttle position sensor. Also the throttle plate could be binding in its bore and kinked accelerator cable, coolant temperature sensor might not be operating properly misleading the computer that the engine is still cold and computer throwing fuel at it raising the idle speed.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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05CHANCE
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My motor idles at 1700 rpms, I checked all the hoses, sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the throttle body to see if there was a leak ,(I replaced the gasket about 1year ago) there was no change in the rpms. I replaced the Idle Air Control valve,making sure that the plunger end was out 1.125 of an inch. I also replaced the Throttle Position Senser and the PCV Valve.I was going to replace the oxygen sensor only I can't break it loose.I am not to sure if that would make my truck idle that high anyway.I am realy at a lost on what do next? Can you help me?
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Hi 05chance, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Try these test the coolant temperature sensor could be locked-up in the open loop mode and computer giving fuel when not needed, clean the mass airflow and EGR valve out-also check fuel pressure if its within specs-also check the fuel pressure regulator and for a clogged fuel return line.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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NELSONB
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My truck is idling high I rebuilt the throttle body and got a new idle air control valve but it still idle high any ideas what else may cause tge high idle thanks
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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check for a blown gasket at base of tbi unit and drive steady over 40mph for over 2 minutes then see if it's still high.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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NELSONB
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Thanks hmac300 I put all new gaskets seals and a new idle air control valve on it but still a high idle any more ideas I'm going to replace tps map and cooling sensor and pcv valves hopefully that will do it
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:16 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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onthese just rplaceing iac is not all that is done you have to drive it for the iac to reset
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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Check for a vacuum leak as well. Any unmetered air will cause them to idle higher.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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LUKEM
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Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

engine idles really high 1400 pm and it shifts really hard from gear to gear it also has a hesitate when you open throttle fast from low rpm
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Clean out the idle air control valve/throttle plate and check acc. cable if its kinked and test the throttle position sensor and manifold absolute pressure sensor
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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MITCHELL PEREZ
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WHEN I TURN ON MY PICK-UP IT HAS AN EXCESSIVELY HIGH IDLE. THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. WHEN I PUT IT IN GEAR IT SHIFTS HARD. AS I ACCELERATE EACH GEAR SHIFTS HARD.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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If the check engine light has come on, there should be a trouble code stored in the computer. I recommend taking it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer. Most will do it for free, and it will direct us to the problem. Ask them to write down the codes for you so I can check it out and tell you what I think is the problem.

Joe
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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I have a 91 Chevy k1500 4x4 p/u with a idle issue. Truck starts and runs fine at first. Starts up, high idle comes on and than goes down. After driving for a while (approx 30 miles) when I shut off the truck and re-start it the idle is really fast. I have to fight the engine with the brakes to get it stopped. The idle never drops back down untill the engine has sat for a while and cooled off. When this happens the truck will go approx. 15 - 20 Mph and not slow down unless I use the brakes to stop
It. Also this weekend a new issue started where the brakes have no real pressure and I can push the pedal to the floor. Don't know if these are related or not? I've read so many diffrent things and don't want to just throw parts at it and get no where. Thanks, -Brandon
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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check your base of tbi unit for a blown gasket you can spray choke cleaner at the base and normally the rpm will change if it leaks. It probably is as this is one of the problems that crop up due to age. you'll just need to replace the gasket. Also check for soft hoses going to pcv and map sensor on firewall. Have your brakes checked and mkae sure master cyclinder is full of fluid it may be a master cylinder going bad or brake wear or both.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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If it was the gasket or the hoses wouldn't this be happening all the time? It only seems to happen after the truck is warm. Once cooled back down everything goes back to normal.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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not necessarily, heat expands things, also when engine is cold it's not in closed loop so it's running a little rich , whenit warms the computer can't make teh difference up to richen the fuel pmix enough to overcome the vacuum leak.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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Ok..I'll check those tonight. Thanks.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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I tested the gasket with carb cleaner. It did not show sings of being blown, but I had already purchased the gasket so I went and changed the gasket anyways. It did make a significant difference. How ever I am still having a high rpm after I shut the truck off. Yesterday I drove home from work (aprox. 30 miles) and never had an issue. Parked the truck, went back out about 30 minutes later and the idle/rpm came back to being high/fast. Went into a store for about 15 minutes, started the truck and the idle/ rpms was back to normal. I checked the hoses and they appear to be ok. When I was working on the truck I removed the IACV to check what it looked like. The pintle had one shinny spot that was about a 1/4 of the pintle, shiny spot started from the top and tapered down. The rest of the pintle was black, almost looked like it wasn't seating flush inside the TBI when it was out? Any ideas on what I should check/do next? Thanks for all the help.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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FYI I checked the breaks and found the pass side rear wheel cylinder leaking. Going to change the d/s and p/s cylinders this weekend.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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try cleaning iac then i fyou haven't already. but for it to reset you have to drive 40 mph for it to reset it self correctly. only other thing i can think of is that iac is bad.
Jun 18, 2020 at 1:17 PM (Merged)