Engine constantly stalls!

1998 CHEVROLET LUMINA
Avatar
CARSTALLS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
98" Chevy Lumina, 6 cyl., 142,000km
When warmed up car has difficulty accelerating and jerks while accelerating, and then stalls - battery and oil lights on. Any time the car has to "work hard" to accelerate quickly (turn a corner, climb a hill) it seems to stall. At times it also stalls at a dead stop. Takes a few minutes before car re-starts again. Mechanics are stumped! Have no idea what's wrong! Please help!
May 12, 2007 at 10:26 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
SERVICE WRITER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,123 POSTS
HAs anything been replaced yet?
HAs the computer been checked for codes, if so list them. IF not, check them.

Ths shop should have a scanner that is capable of taking a snap-shot over the stalling when it happens, the data stream can be anaylzed and combined with the codes, there should be a very good chance of what is happening.

Also you can disconnect the EGR valve connector and drive it to see if the problem stops. Just for testing.
IF you haven't already cleaned the IAC motor, egr valve and passageways, and the throttlebody, these would be recommended.
May 13, 2007 at 9:47 AM
Avatar
SERVICE WRITER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,123 POSTS
Find anything out?
May 21, 2007 at 7:46 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
ANNABELLE2326
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 95 (3.1L, 140,000) that does essentially the same thing. Does it only do it sometimes? Mine seems to only do it when it feels like it and rarely while I'm driving, only at start up.
May 25, 2007 at 6:27 PM
Avatar
2CARPRO JACK
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 11,533 POSTS
Has the fuel pressure been checked? Some of those GM cars had a "pulse Dampener" on the fuel pump that sometimes would let pressure bleed off resulting in poor running and hard starting
May 26, 2007 at 8:29 AM
Avatar
DEALENNA CRUZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I was turning left to get stuff to cook I am a mother of two and all of a sudden my car just turned off while i was going left. may i remind you there is traffic coming. I really do not want this to happen again. Someone answers please!
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:36 AM (Merged)
Avatar
DOCFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 18,828 POSTS
need more info did it crank back up? check engine light on? was it low on fuel? With that many miles could be numerous things.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:36 AM (Merged)
Avatar
CMORROWX5
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 98 chevy lumina 3.1 and it just had the starter replaced. Now it shuts off while driving it, it will start right back up again but after driving for a little while more it keeps shuting off. Any suggetions on what it might be. I have also just replaced the pvc valve, air cleaner, spark plugs and changed the oil.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
JDL
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 16,098 POSTS
Intermittent issues can be hard to track. You have to test when problem is ongoing. Any applicable trouble codes? Some of the national brand autostores used to check codes for free, if there are any.

Does the problem occur going down the road or at idle?
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
DEUCE313
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Engine Performance problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 115000 miles

Ok I was driving my 1998 Chevy Lumina it was real cold in the morning, my car clicks when its cold but when car warms up seems to go away. But today I was driving it to work and then the throttle when real high so I stopped the car and it continued and it shut off but then I started it and started back up, my car has been having problems with coolant light coming on and off saying low coolant but I see no white smoke or anything about blowin headgasket so if you could shed some light on my issues would be great Thanks
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Hi:
Has the check engine light come on?
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
DEUCE313
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
no check engine light yet but lights are dim until you rev engine then the pulse
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Hi:
Have you had the alt checked? It sounds like there is a problem with the voltage regulator. Most parts stores will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
STJOHN56
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Electrical problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 65,000 miles

My Lumina has had an ongoing intermittent electrical problem for the past year that nobody can find. At time it will not start. When you turn the key it is completely dead except for the doam light being on. It may start the next time you turn the key, or you may have to wait a couple hours to try it again. When you are driving down the road it will start to quit on you. The radio goes out and the dash light start to dim. You can usually keep it going. I have had it in a Chevy garage and they checked the computer and found no error codes. They told me the fuel pump was very good and could find no reason for the failures and could not get it to fail for them after keeping it five days. Could my problem be the ignition switch?
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Hi:
Does the vehicle have a security system? Does you ignition key have a transistor in it?

Let me know

Joe
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
STJOHN56
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yes, the keys do have a transister in them. We have tried both keys and have the same issue.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Hi:
Does the security light stay on after the car starts? If so, it will need to go to the dealer for reprograming. I have a feeling the problem lies in the security system. However, not being there with you to see the problem limits me.

Ask the dealer if they feel it may be the problem.

Let me know what they say. I hope this helps.

Joe
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
JPROBST
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 140000 miles

The car dies often when slowing down to come to a stop. It idles fine. It just seems to shut off. It doesn't sputter or shake, just shuts off. It will start back up perfectly when you try to restart it.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 75,992 POSTS
Try disconnecting the TCC solenoid and see what happens
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
JPROBST
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for the suggestion but I think that we found the problem. Somehow the air intake hose came loose between the throttle body and the air filter. It pulled in some dirt into the throttle body. After a good cleaning it runs great.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
KENDALLWILLIAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hello there,

For the past 4 days, I have been dealing with my engine randomly stalling & shutting down, usually when I am going at slower speeds or idling while at a light, or just parked. For about the first 10-15 minutes, there will be no problem but as I continue to drive, the car will start to constantly ALMOST stall but manages not to, but when I slow down just enough or am in a state of idle, it will stall & shut down. Usually I can get it to turn back over right away, but there are times where it will automatically stall & shut down again and will have to keep turning it over for at least a minute.

I notice that when the engine stalls & shuts down, three lights in particular turn on. The "Change Oil Soon" light, the "Oil" light & the "Volts" light. However, the car has actually just recently had an oil change, so I do not believe that is the problem.

One light has been on consistently for a while, which is the "Service Engine Soon" light. I have had the car checked out at AutoZone for any codes relating to this light and it is saying it is a code P0401, which relates to the EGR valve. I have since cleaned out the EGR valve & the EGR intake passageway with carb cleaner spray, and managed to get out a lot of gunky buildup. I also took the time to clean the throttle body with the carb cleaner spray & clean the Mass Air Flow sensor with Mass Air Flow sensor spray. This does not seem to have helped in any way, shape or form though.

At this point, I'm not too sure what to do, as I need my car to commute to my work as it is 60 mile commute altogether there & back. If you could help give me some insight, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
HMAC300
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 48,601 POSTS
chec yoru fuel pressure with a gauge autoparts rent it. 41-47 psi
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
KENDALLWILLIAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Ok, and just to be on the safe side, what else should I be looking for in case that does not turn out to be the problem?
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
HMAC300
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 48,601 POSTS
scan for codes or have a pro do it and check for intermittent problems.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
CINDYV
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 96327 miles

I hope this e-mail isn't too long. But, I am relaying a condensed version of what was explained to me. I hope you can help as I have not run across this type of situation before will need to explain what My mothers Lumina (4dr sedan) locked up like the master cylinder just went out. then it will start but runs VERY rough. Power steering does not work, battery light and check engine lights flash. She is finally able to get vehicle running enough make the left turn and basically coast into a parking lot. Once I arrive it starts fine still running a bit rougher than usual I left it there for the night and drovei t home this morning every thing is running ALMOST normal it's just a little rough.
I am sorry I couldn't donate more But as an unemployed single mom taking care of my mother there isn't much right now. Thats why I am doing my own repairs and you guys have the BEST site out there Your iinfo has helped me with my S-10 Blazer and Sentra!!!!
Thanks in advance
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
2CARPRO JACK
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 11,533 POSTS
If the battery light is on and the p/s isnt working I would look at the drive belt to be sure it is ok.Sounds like it lost the belt and then overheated and stopped running.If the belt is gone, replace it before running the engine anymore.Spin all accessories on the engine to see if a bearing failed to cause the belt to come off.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
CINDYV
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
7:00 PM - The belt is fine and still on vehicle.
When this happened my Mom was making a left from 1 major street onto another major street. She was moving forward at approx. 10-20 mph coming to a stop at the light, and suddenly the car died. After about 5 attempts the car finally restarted, but to keep it running had to keep foot on accelorater to keep the rpms up. Then during the left turn the car did a brake lock-up thing, it came to a SUDDEN stop with tires squealing (like when our Master Cylinder went out), it was so sudden that seat belt didn't engage and hit nose on steering wheel, that is also the same time that Power Steering went out then car died she restarted the car but it had no power/ MAJOR power loss and was able to coast a parking lot. Still with no Power steering. Was able to keep car running for a while. Then turned it off and about 30-45 min. I got there started it no prob. just rough. Since it was 5 PM I left car there until following morning. You know the rest of the story.

9:30 PM - I just drove the car to Auto Zone and they did a scan on the car and the code it came back with is the "Camshaft Position Sensor" faulting.

Thank You !!!!!
Cindy V
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
2CARPRO JACK
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 11,533 POSTS
That can make it die and run rough.The computer needs to know the position of the camshaft in realtion to the crankshaft for ignition. Honestly I have never heard of the brakes locking up all by themselves, it usually takes pedal pressure to do it
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
ERHFUBAR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
1998 Chevy Lumina V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic
----------------------------------------------------------------
My 98 chevy lumina is having a problem staying running. At first it wouldn't start but when it does you can go in reverse but cannot go forward. The car will automatically shut off. It's been to two different garages and no one can figure out the problem. The day that it didn't want to start it sounded almost like i hit something before i shut it off. I need suggestions on what it might be and i need a car quick. i have a baby.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
DNAPRORACING
  • MEMBER
  • 120 POSTS
have someone scan the codes. a full scan, not one of those cheap $400 pepboys scanners. if i would have done that in the first place, could have saved a grand in new sensors, etc...
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:37 AM (Merged)
Avatar
PLAYBALL0352
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
when you start vehicle, it only stays running if your foot is on the gas
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 75,992 POSTS
Clean out the idle air control valve and see what happens
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
BINX31
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 160,00 miles

the engine shut off one night and didnt start until the next day but while trying to move it the engine shut off and doesnt start back up but hear a clicking noise in the engine while trying to restart it
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
MERLIN2021
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 17,250 POSTS
Soudns like the battery is low, and the clicking is because there isnt enogh battery power to operate the starter solinoid. See if it will take a jump start.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
FRH0722
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 106000 miles

While driving my lumina the car stopped running. The battery was dead. After having it towed I changed the battery and when I tried to start it, it would not turn over. I heard clicking noise and then nothing. I changed the starter and now when I try to turn it over I get clicking but the car will not turn over. Is there something else I am missing?
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
DOCFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 18,828 POSTS
Check ground cable clean and tight at batt and on block/chassis
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
DAKOTA38
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Other Category problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 146k miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
the car runs for a little while whens it is 1st started,maybe 3 or 4 minutes then quits..it is getting plenty of gas so i dont know what it is
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
LEGITIMATE007
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 5,121 POSTS
have your crank position sensor looked at.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
38LUMINA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Computer problem
1998 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 172000 miles

well i have had this problem for quite sometime now... ive gone threw about 4 batteries and got my altenator checked 2 times.... still dies... someone at autozone told me it could be the control module, so i changed it and got another new battery. it worked good for about 3 days, then i tried to start it today... nothing like the battery is dead again.... i jumped it and it started...and it started making a noise ive never heard before.. sounds like its coming from the a/c on the serpintine line.... but i know it will just die again... what in the world is goin on?? maybe a bad altenator cable? ground wire from battery? or could the starter make this do it? or could i be completey wrong and its something with the computer?? its driving me nuttz.!!! im new to this so i know i will donate soon!!! and i cannot find the manuel for my car anywhere i checked online and stores
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:38 AM (Merged)
Avatar
BUSTEDNBROKEN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I'mnot sure if I have the question right, so if I am answering something you didn't ask.... Sorry...

So if your problem is that if the car sits the battery dies and it wont start without a jump... You have a draw... The simplest way to find a draw is to: 1. buy a cheap test light. 2. remove your negative battery cable then connect one end of the test light to the negitive spot on the battery and the other end to the cable you just removed. Pretty much your using the test light to reconnect the negative cable. If the light is on (with the door closed) you probably have a draw. Then its a matter of pulling fuses until the light goes off. Once you find the fuse that shuts the light of you know that for some reason that circuit is drawing down your battery. Two little side notes... The dome light must be shut off or pull the illumination fuse so the light is off... with your door open the light will cause the test light to come on... This is the simplest way to test for a draw without spending a pile of money. also know that there is a normal amount of draw in most cars... but if the test light shines brite it more then likely is a harmfull draw.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:39 AM (Merged)
Avatar
SRUBLE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
my car has started stalling out and will start back but will keep on stallining out if the rpms are under 2, it will start to sputter like it is out of gas and it will stall out,start right back p and stall out when i start driving it. it will stay running for hours if its just idleing. we cleaned out the egr hoses and replaced the egr valve because that is what the tester said is wrong with it. still doing the same.
Jul 31, 2017 at 11:39 AM (Merged)