radiator fan

First of all. Check to make sure the fan motor is good. To do this you need to disconnect the fan and run jumper wires to the battery. If the fan works when you hook it up to the battery, the fan motor is good and you need to check and replace the fan switch relay. Here is a guide to help you with the cooling fan wiring diagrams below to show you how the system works and fuse with relay locations.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-electric-fan-motor

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Got a new radiator fan motor cost me $98.00 fix it

Cooling fans not working. I replaced the (3) relays 1 month ago and the fans worked. Driven less than 200 miles. Very hot day yesterday 90 mile trip, again they are not working. I replaced the relays again and now they are NOT working. AC not used. Fans wont turn on! Car tested on computer last week and no codes came up for cooling sys. Could this be a wiring issue? RM in heat!

Power the cooling fan from the battery if i comes on-check and test the coolant temperature sensor/switch if okay-could be a wiring problem or the computer controlled of the fan relays circuit

Oh yes, I replaced the cooling sensor 1st(underneath water pump). Where does the fan relay wires ( from fusebox) hook to the ECU?

Check and test fusible link C this is the one that powers the fan relays

Do you havde a diagram/ Schematic? I am so grateful.

I don't have the diagram I've checked it -not available

where do I test this? Location? Link C?

I just bought a 1995 Chevy Camaro and it smokes from underneath the bottom of the engine. The dealer said there was an oil leak drippin on the manifold. I can't find it, but my cooling fan doesn't work. I replace the busted sensor for just that problem. So do i need a new cooling fan motor? and...What's up with the oil leak? What should i do?

For the oil leak, remember oil runs down. With the engine running and you driving it runs everywhere. A little oil makes a big mess. You have to wash the engine. Wash the engine really good. Follow directions for this so you don’t spray cleaners/water directly into electrical items, pulleys etc. Make sure the engine is cool when you do this. Once clean start and run. Then look for the leak above the area it was dripping at. This takes time unless it is a really good leak. Look for wet, fresh oil; clean lines that the oil has been running at. Be careful when looking around running items. You will need a strong light also. I had to wash one then actually drive it. Then washed a smaller area again. Then had to drive it. Then traced it down to an area about the size of a dinner plate. Washed that area again. Ran it and just watched. Presto........there it was. Again, just takes time unless it is a really good leak.
For the fan, disconnect the connector from the fan motor and get two wires and go directly from the fan motor to the positive & negative side of the battery. If the fan motor doesn’t move the motor is bad. Part is about $40 at Auto Zone.

Check at the battery junction block

I will check that. Thank you very much!

Engine Cooling problem
1995 Chevy Camaro 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

why do the cooling fans not come on ?changed the cooling sensor already . when termenal is disconnected the fans come on but when i connect the sensor the fans will not come on .

Sounds like the computer controlled of the fan relay circuit-get it checked out-

The computer has to recognize the input signal from the coolant temperature sensor in order for it to activate the fan relays-could be an open wire from the CTS or the computer itself

There is no air blowing through the ac vents when I turn on the ac. The switches work because I can hear the compressor turn on, but the fans not? On the relays there's coolant fan #1,2,3 and air pump, which one is it? Also where do I check the fuse for it? Where's the fan located? Thanks!

i'm sending a diagram that shows where the stuff is that you want. you will be able to copy it and blow it up for easier viewing. Your relay for the blower is under the dash on the left tunnel. also check your grounds under the kick panel as well as your resistor as that may be bad as well. the resistor should be on the heater box as well as the blower motor. but check the blower motor for getting ower if it is it's a bad ground or the motor isn't any good.

we have chaged the water pump, themistate,the coolant sensor on the water pump, changed all 3 relays for fans whats funny is if you take the relays out and place them right back in the fans will cycle one time time quit but will not start again with out unpluging and repluging the relays. so what could it be? 1996 z28 5.7 lt1

The signal between the temp. sensor and the PCM are not triggering the relays, apparently.
If you have A/C, turn it on and see if you have low speed fan operation with the engine running....CAUTION: Be careful about not tangling with the serpentine belt, while you are feeling for the air in front of the alternator's location.
This is a good time to have the diagnostics performed rather than guess and pay for parts that, when replaced, don't solve the problem. Check continuity between the coolant temp. sensor connector and the PCM Harness connector with a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) set to 20k ohms and the PCM fuse removed from the fuse block in the engine compartment. Also check the PCM's ground wire usually attached to the ignition coil bracket mounting stud. (Your Z28 may be different.)
DO NOT energize the ignition circuit or any PCM-related sensors, at any time while testing for continuity of the PCM circuitry or PCM wiring harness connections!!! Permanant and VERY EXSPENSIVE damages may result.
If you DO have a faulty PCM; chances are, it is going tho be a $1.50 voltage feedback resister, the ONE that receives the signal from the coolant temp. sensor, and sends that signal (with a revised value) on to the PCM logic circuit FOR INTERPRETATION, that probably needs to be replaced by a electronics tech and you'll get your PCM back for about $130 because they don't have an exchange program, and you get to park your car for the 2 or 3 weeks it takes for turn-around...
Better hope that isn't your problem! :(

[quote:2dd172cde4="rogercutford"]we have chaged the water pump, themistate,the coolant sensor on the water pump, changed all 3 relays for fans whats funny is if you take the relays out and place them right back in the fans will cycle one time time quit but will not start again with out unpluging and repluging the relays. so what could it be? 1996 z28 5.7 lt1[/quote:2dd172cde4]

I have a 1996 Z28 5.7 to . Same thing happen to me I craked my heads I told them my fans were not kicking on but when they tried they would come on.They said my car was fix. I got in my car and before I went 5 mile my car was in the red. I live in vegas and it does get hella hot out here. But this is a Z28 and it is designed to run hot. anyhow took it back said same thing fans are not kicking on. they said they fixed it, again got in the car the car goes into the red . I paid then 1600.00 for my heads but the car was still over heating. the guy at the shop was freaking out. this time he said he fixed it and he let the car run for hours to see if it would over heat and it did not. so I picked up the car and guess what same dame thing . this guy put a new radiator theromosat water pump in all for free. took car home and this time the car held up for about 3 weeks. So i figures this fool cant fix my car I then put a rebuild engine in.All the while telling these people my fans are not kicking on but it seamed to kick on for them. I did not take the car to chevy because i did not want to pay there price but I should of by now I have spent around 6 grand on this car. I figured I sank so much into I have to save it. Want I did was I tried to buy a thermosat that would open at 160 degress but all the auto part stores said u cant buy one and if u could it would not work. It would mess with the computer.But i remenber at the car races that when thier cars would start to over heat they would drill holes in the side of thier thermosats, this would open it up by letting more water run through it. this was a long time ago.I almost did that but i was looking on line and it was not hard to find a thermostat that open at 160 degress made just for a 1996 z28. I think auto zone now has one but u might have to order it its not something they would normally have on the self. and I also put in a modification I got at PEp Boy for about $30 buck that would turn on my fans at 175 degress sorry this respones is long and the spelling might not be right but i am typing super fast because I am pissed I ask these guy to do this in the first place but 6 grand latter i did it myself and is has been about a year and no problems. total coat abut $60 !!I wish someone would of wrote this to me a few years ago. this worked for me not telling u to do this but if your car is like mine a damn 1996 when they started to change things it might be worth a try. GOOD LUCK!! let me know

I have a 1995 corvette with 75,000 miles on it. I recently purchased the car and found the temperature gauge running very hot particularly when standing still at an idle. The temperature goes down once I get moving again. I noticed that the radiator fan does not come on. Aside from checking the fan motor, are there any other things that could cause this problem?

Rick

For a start inspect/test the coolant temperature sensor and fan relay/s.

The computer energizes the relay when it gets the proper input signals from CTS/Temperature switch or AC

The electric radiator fans do not turn on when the engine starts getting hot. Need advice.

do they turn on when you turn on your air conditioning?

I have the air conditioning disconnected. Not really needed where I live. The electric fans were working fine without air conditioning.

check your fuses and make sure they are not blown

I checked the fuses and none were blown.

Where is the Water Temperature Sensor located?

did you jump the relay and see if they turn on?

I have the same ???? Please let me know if you find out. Mines a 1993 but i am sure it is close to the same.

I replaced both relays. I thought it might be the fuse link but it is ok. Still can't get radiator fans to work. Where can I find a illustrated manual thats shows where all the sensors are located and any other components that deal with this particular problem. I have the schematics but I can't distinguish one sensor from another.

thanks

I have a 87 i dont know for sure with yours being a newer moddle but on mine the sensor is in the driver side head under the exaust manifold, it should have one green wire commin off of it. It is the sensor that controls the gauge. There is another sensor on your intake manifold some where on mine it is twards the back and i had to pull the throtle body off to get to it, it has two wires commin off of it that is the sensor that controls your fans. The two of them cost me $54 your car may be a little different but they should be in the same areas.

i own a 1991 camaro.305-v8 tune port injected. i have replaced my coolant temp sensor,my water pump,my fan relay,tracked the wires from the fan to the relay. the black ground is grounded,the red & black stripe wire is in tact and leads to the relay. i tested the fan motor to make sure it wasnt burned up and it powers on just fine.i checked the fuses and they all intact.my radiator cap is good,the radiator is fairly new , i did a coolant flush recently.replaced the thermostat also, the thermostat is the correct one being engraved to 195 degrees or 192. but when the dash temp gage reads 220 still no fan turning on. 230,240 etc. if i let it run it will red zone. but i dont let it go that far. ive tried everything i can think of.my camaro does not have a fan switch. the coolant temp sensor acts as the fan switch. with a pig tail having two wires on it. a black wire and appears to be a white if not baige wire. also these wires seem to be in tact.i dont feel that hot wiring my fan to stay on the whole time i drive will solve this issue. i think a cool running engine will burn more fuel .im out of options. some one i know said it might be my cars computer. well might be isnt a it is.the dealer does not return those and for around 250 bucks i cant guess. i like a challenge but its now a headache not a challenge.

According to my software you have a cooling fan temp switch at the rear of the right cylinder head

I suggest you take it to a reputable shop with equipment that can perform real time diagnostics. Your problems may be due to a faulty PCM or PCM ground wire, a faulty MAP sensor or a defective coolant temp sensor even though it may be new! Rebuilt exchanges are available through most parts stores so you can save about 50% over dealer prices. Usually a tech will install a new resister in place of the defective coolant temp sensor feedback resistor in the circuit board, and it may perform well for a week or so or longer. Most come with a 30 day warranty but beware of parts sources that do not accept the return of electrical parts. If you have a shop do the job, they should warrant their parts and workmanship, so that may be the best solution.
It may be a temp sensor mounted at the rear of the head of your 305 engine and it would provide the signal to the the dash temp gauge,(if equipped). If you don't have a temp gauge, then it is the switch mentioned by Jack in his reply.
The coolant temp sensor mounted to the water pump, supplies a supposedly accurate temperature to the PCM. The signal from the coolant temperature sensor, aka: "thermistor", varies it's resistance with the change of temperature measured in the coolant stream and signals the PCM. The PCM supplies a signal of aprox. 5 volts to the coolant temp sensor and a feed back signal is returned through a resister in the PCM circuitry which in turn measures the voltage.....when correct, it is interpreted as high voltage when engine is cold and low voltage when engine is hot*.
*source: Chilton Total Car Care manual for GM models: Camaro /Firebird model years 1993-1998. #28284
page 4-37
Though the source may not be specific for your engine, the info is valid to an extent for your application.
I have experienced similar problems with Chrysler Corp. E-Class models built from 1982-1990, and it seems to be an industry-wide phenomenon, regardless of make. They would have built a better mouse trap had they moved the PCM out of the engine compartment, away from the heat and vibration, but the bean counters know copper wire is expensive, so we, the consumer must suffer the consequences.
If you do need a replacement, the number on the side of the PCM is your reference for parts availability. The supplier may need to send your PCM out for repair (about 2 to 3 weeks, in some cases), so try to find a good used unit if you can. It is about half the price of "repaired" unit and it will allow you to keep your car on the road if you do need a replacement. Almost all go bad, sooner or later, so call it cheap insurance if you intend to keep the car for a long time.
I hope this helps.

the auto cooling fan stopped coming on when the engine gets hot. I have a by pass switch that I turn on manually when the engine gets hot. I changed the cooling thermostate switch and it still does not automatically turn on the fan.

check for faulty cooling fan fuse and relay

where is the cooling fan relay switch located on my 1986 camaro ?

depends on the engine size but its either on the right radiator support below burn-off relay for the 5.0L EFI Carb engine OR on the left side of the firewall in engine compartment for the 5.0L Carb. 1 & 2 .

98 Z28 camaro cooling fans not cycling on jumped both fans they work fine only found 1 temp sensor & relays checked out