My transmission is not shifting?

2010 CHEVROLET BLAZER
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IUREIS
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Problem: Upon slow acceleration, at any speed, the engine will drag and hesitate. The Service engine light will come on and then the car will not want to downshift or shift at all. When floored at this point, nothing happens. Acceleration is virtually zero. After stopping the car (say at a redlight), starting again it will refuse to shift into 2nd gear. When it finally does, it will make a hard "thunk" sound and the car will surge forward. If the car is stopped and turned off for awhile, everything seems to go back to normal. Faster acceleration keeps the problem at bay. Having the heat on will make the problem happen pretty quickly so I run without it (I layer up well).

Transmission fluid and filter have been replaced recently, as well as, the fuel filter, fuel system cleaning, oil and filter. The speedometer also sticks and jumps as well on longer drives but I haven't checked the other posts for that yet!

Long and drawn out but that's the best I can explain it. Thanks for any posts you can direct me to that I may have missed or advice.
Feb 8, 2007 at 6:38 PM
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RASMATAZ
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Disconnect the TCC solenoid on the tranny and road test again to duplicate the problem. This guide can help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down this guide and report back.
Feb 9, 2007 at 6:41 AM
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2CARPRO JACK
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Sounds like you might have gotten your moneys worth out of that trans. Have it scanned for codes. Usually when those trannies start having 2nd gear shift problems it time for a rebuild. There were a ton of updates to the valve body in those that pertain to hard/late 2nd gear shifts. Have it scanned first, get back to us and we can go from there. BTW what year Blazer?
Feb 9, 2007 at 7:51 AM
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IUREIS
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The ol' S10 ran fine today, of course. Yesterday, though, after being driven and doing it's usual surge, etc. I put it in park, idled for a sec and then put her back into gear.........wham!....really was quite a jolt and then the same shifting hard into 2nd. Again, though after resting awhile, it was great. FYI.

I'll check the codes again and see what I can find this time. Always runs great when it's being checked! Thanks rasmataz and 2CarPro Jack. I'll get back to you on what I come up with.
BTW, it's a 1994 S10. Thanks.
Feb 9, 2007 at 3:51 PM
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IUREIS
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Finally found a code checker for the S10! The code checker (Actron CP 9001) displays Code #22. The description given in the manual was......Throttle position sensor (TPS) signal voltage is low during engine idle OR Fuel cutoff relay circuit is open or shorted to ground.
Does this make any sense for the shudder problem? And how does that connect with the hard shift problem when the Check Engine light comes on? Thanks again.
Mar 5, 2007 at 9:34 PM
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RASMATAZ
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[quote:63d0f029d6="IUReis"]Finally found a code checker for the S10! The code checker (Actron CP 9001) displays Code #22. The description given in the manual was......Throttle position sensor (TPS) signal voltage is low during engine idle OR Fuel cutoff relay circuit is open or shorted to ground.
Does this make any sense for the shudder problem? And how does that connect with the hard shift problem when the Check Engine light comes on? Thanks again.[/quote:63d0f029d6]

The throttle position sensor is like your throttle valve operated by vacuum with the old type tranny. The VSS vehicle speed sensor is the governor
Mar 5, 2007 at 10:42 PM
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2CARPRO JACK
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The Throttle Position Sensor tell the ECM how much throttle you are giving it.There is a link at the bottom of main forum page for Auto Repair Manuals.Go there and you will find all specs and instructions to test your TPS
Mar 6, 2007 at 7:52 AM
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JOE THE MARINE
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After I start the vehicle and want to pull out of the driveway, it is the 3 to 7 second delay for the car to move and after I put it in gear, and it warms up, no problem. this only happy when the car sits all night and it's cold, otherwise it shifts in all the gears and drives like a new car. This only happens when it sits all night. Can you lead me on the right path, I know transmission shops will nail you to the cross on this, and also I have never change the fluid, because it's a beautiful pink and doesn't smell burned. Can I do this myself if it is a vacuum line? which I already checked.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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Your issue is a common one with the transmission in that truck (and many other GM's that use the same 4L60E transmission). It is caused by the worn rings and hardened seals on the interior parts like the front pump and pressure control solenoid. When they get cold they get very stiff and bypass the transmission fluid instead of sending it into the proper paths and apply pistons. Once the transmission fluid and parts warm up they get a bit more flexible and the transmission works again as the parts start sealing like they are supposed to. The only real repair is to pull the transmission apart and replace the worn and hardened parts. You could opt for an already re-built unit but if you use a good re-builder they can add in the upgraded parts for your transmission and make it better than new. There are some fluids sold that purport to make the seals flexible again and make the transmission work again but I have never used any of them. They could help or they could make it worse.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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DOUG GIFFORD
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My transmission will not go into third or fourth gear.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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your transmission is in what is called limp mode and with your mileage it is probably in need of a rebuild. Have a transmission professional look at it for an opinion. make sure the transmission fluid is full and not dark brown or black.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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DOUG GIFFORD
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It is not brown or black it is red, but it does not smell sweet like I read it should, and it is full. I read something about putting an additive to it might help.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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Adding an additive like Lucus can help
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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DOUG GIFFORD
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Well okay, that worked thank you.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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CANDY SNYDER
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Have to manually shift the gears because it will not go into third goes in first and second fine. but you got to bypass 30 going to regular drive was wondering what the for Auto 4 wheel drive was and what could be causing the problem? Replace one sensor in the transmission and that did not fix it. it was a sensor closest to the passenger side not the driver side.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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Good morning,

Were there any codes set in the modules? If so, do you remember it?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

When was the last time you had the transmission oil/filter changed?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Roy
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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CANDY SNYDER
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Yes, rotor cap. Just got the vehicle about a week ago.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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Got it.

Can you check for any codes?

I would start by changing the oil/filter in the transmission.

Roy
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:10 PM (Merged)
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RACHEL JACKSON
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I was driving my vehicle the other day and i went to pass someone and as soon as i got into the gas peddle the trucks rpm went up but never changed gears it just raved up. so i let out of it and got back down to forty to forty five mph. it felt like i was not going the speed. And it do not have the muffler on it and it does not sound loud it is quite. What could be the problem? please help.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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If the rpms went up but the vehicle speed didn't the most common cause in that vehicle is in the transmission. The sun shell is known for failing, and with the mileage you list the clutches are probably worn as well.

As for it being quiet, probably due to the convertor. They dampen the sound quite a bit.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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AKRAY65
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Old transmission was bad so I replaced with another used one. It bolted up the same and I am pretty sure I installed it correctly. But it shifts kind of erratically, like it does not know when it should shift. Each gear works if you try them one at a time, but when driving it shifts strangely. Any ideas?
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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It sounds like the turbine shaft speed sensor is not working but to be sure lets run the codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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RON CADWELL
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In drive on interstate at 60 mph after half hour or so transmission down shifts on a hill to third gear and then does not return to fourth gear.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Hey Ron,

It sounds like the catalytic converter is starting to plug reducing the vacuum the engine can produce. Here is a guide to help confirm the issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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ITSCHAGIRL
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tranny trouble i washed my chevy blazer it locked into 4 low.next day it came out of 4 low .i changed the filter now 3 gear revs ,and drive the rpm are at 4 grand if you kick it it will rev then go into drive
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Check fluid level to make sure it is full and clean. The washing issue has me confused. Check wiring to the transfer case to make sure every thing is tight and clean. Next, check to make sure nothing was loostened at the TCM. You may have not installed the filter correctly and it's leaking air or it's low on fluid. you'll have to recheck what you have done.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:11 PM (Merged)
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THETREJO19
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I have a Blazer 97´with automatic transmission. six month ago the transmission once passed to 2 shift it never came back to first even if the vehicle was fully stopped. After scanned the transmission with a Chevrolet scanner a solenoid 1-2 problem came out on the screen. I have replaced all the solenoids and after six month it started to fail again. I stopped using the car for about 3 weeks and started to used for other month without any fail for couple of weeks. What can be causing that problem? Is possible that there is a voltage supply problem? How can I check that? I will appreciate any support you can give me
Best regards
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The first thing I would check is to make sure the wiring to the shift solenoids is in good condition. They are very thin wires and can break internally. What results is a good connection one time and no connection the next. Also, make sure the wiring to the solenoids is tight. If that is all good, then you can check the m-volts to the solenoids. My guess is the solenoids are still good, but the wiring to them (in the transmission) is damaged.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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KATLINUHL5727
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ABS light came on speedometer quit working and will not shift into third or fourth gear. Showed no signs of transmission failure.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Hello,

It sounds like the vehicle speed sensor (output shaft speed sensor) has gone out. Here is its location so you can replace it. F and #43 in the diagrams.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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BRYANK36
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it was the vss thank you.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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MELODY THOMAS
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From left to right, gear arrangement appears on dashboard as ordered:
Park
Reverse
Neutral
Overdrive
Drive
2nd
1st
She fires up without a hitch, smooth exchange from idle point, and purrs in reverse, but lacks follow thru on acceleration.
Instead of maintaining current speed by depressing the throttle, something disengaged.
Having to drop shift into 2nd around the 15 MPH marker for continued travel, and upshifting back to drive at a full stop, to be a two geared shit shifter when all i want is my automatic transmission back.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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KASEKENNY
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We need to start with the basics. Let's inspect the fluid level and condition. If the fluid is dirty we may need to start with changing it but that is also a sign that the damage is already done and it won't fix it.

So if the fluid is dirty then that is normally caused by a clutch slipping and it burns the fluid which causes more damage and eventually you lose forward gears first and then reverse in most cases.

Below is the process to check the fluid.

Then we need to check for codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let's start with this and go from there. Thanks
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Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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CRIDDLE
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Why is my transmission not going into drive and high rpm.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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Good morning,

The first thing is to check your fluid and make sure it is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

It could be a clogged filter in the transmission. I would drop the pan and change the fluid and filter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Beyond that, you may have a failed torque converter or front pump failure. That will require removal and inspection.

Roy
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Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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CONVERTERKID2000
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Transmission didn't have 3 or 4th gear just sliped. After removing the 3-4 clutches and the the Piston. I found the clutches were burnt, but the seals were good. I cleaned the parts , checked the balls and installed the new seals and clutches. I didn't do any thing to the valve body. Where do I need to look for the reason whey the 3-4 still slip. And why is it only the 1995 tranny will work in the 1995 blaser. Junk yard say 1995 is all by it self and nothng newer or older will work.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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MIKE H R
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when you did the work on the transmission did you replace the filter. it could be glogging up and preventing it from shifting into a higher gear. 1994 and earlier had a diferent transmission, then they changed the body style, in the 1996 and up was another transmsiion, the 1995 had a one year had a transmission that was used just that year.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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CONVERTERKID2000
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Yes I replaced the filter. It goes into 3rd gear but slips. Reverse and 1& 2 gear are fine no sliping, clutcher were in good shape too. Band was also ok.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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CONVERTERKID2000
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After giving you a donation, I have yet to receive an answer on why I still don't have 3 or 4 gear.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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MIKE H R
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Have you had the transmission scanned? there are many reasons for slippage, there are a few codes that relate to the slippage. ex, 75- low voltage, 73-pressure control, 69, torque comverter. The problem could be in one of the electrical solenoids that control the transmission. Or a bad connection


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/54223_blazer_solenoids_1.jpg

Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)
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CONVERTERKID2000
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No I haven't had it scanned yet. Didn't want to drive it to far with this problem. What kind of scanner do I have to get to scan this. And do you plug it into the same port you use for the engine? Also like I said 1st 2nd and reverse work fine. Hopefully it is something in the valve body so I don't have to pull the tranny out again.
Apr 9, 2021 at 7:12 PM (Merged)