wont start

Im going to assume that the engine wont turn over given the parts list you have replaced.

Start by reading the guides below on starter testing and wiring testing, they will help you figure this out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The wiring diagram for you starting system is attached below

I stopped to get gas and when I went to start it again, it was like the battery was totally dead. No lights, would not even try to turn over, just nothing. It will jump off just fine. I have had the battery tested, alternator tested, starter tested, coil packs are all good. Has a new ignition in it (replaced that about four months ago). When the battery is not hooked up to the truck it shows a full charge but when it is hooked up it shows that it's drained to less than three on the tester. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?

Hello,

I would retest the battery, here is a load test you can do your self to see if it passes

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Ongoing problem: truck will start and run fine for months. Start it one morning, drive, let it sit, try to start it again and it just clicks. It will jump off everytime. Today, problem happened again and a new addition to the symptom - no interior component worked (except local radio), XM did not work. Jumped it right off though. Battery has been replaced, fuel pump has been replaced.

Probable causes here could be the starter itself, starter relay, computer grounding part of the starter relay coil and ignition switch

In the last week I have been able to get the truck started only to have it fail again so I got to thinking when I get it starts it is always when it has been nice and sunny all though it's still cold and winter here
So today I thought I would try my hair dryer on the ignition and it started up. so when back out this afternoon and again no start so I warmed the ignition up again with my hair dryer. And it started agaian so I was thinking the problem lies in the ignition cylinder what do ya think

when it doesnt start, leave the key in the run position and watch the theft light and see if it flashes continuously. if it does then your diagnosis is probably right on the money.

The passlock light does not flash at all and stays on continusiosly

If it detects a valid key signal, the light will go out. You need to have it scanned with a tech 2 to check for security codes.

Have no spark?

Are you getting power to the coil? Have you checked the crank sensor?

I have replaced the fuel pump and crank sensor, the truck ran for 2 weeks and then just dies, wait 10 minutes and run okay, having problems with the battery lately when the truck set for a few days it won't start???? I had it to a dealership and my mechanic and they can't fix it if if not broken!#$^&&(???

My 2004 2wd Chevy Avalanche will not start. It had trouble turning over last week twice (on the first start). I thought the battery (original) was going out. I have replaced the battery and it is still dead?

You should check the starter draw.

One day I was driving to work and my truck just started to hesitate to run got about 7 puttering miles down the road and finally died on me I had to get a tow truck I changed the fuel filter thinking it was clogged but no luck

If it still won't start, you need to check if the fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs. Also, check to see if there is spark to the engine.

Done that everything is a ok but still the same result

Okay, if the fuel pressure is good at the rail and you have a good hot blue snapping spark at the plugs, check to make sure the injectors are getting power and working. If they aren't, it doesn't matter that the fuel pressure is good.

Let me know what you find.

I parked my truck, and later tried to restart the engine, there is nothing, no noise, no gauges, no door locks, no interiors, but the headlights and the radio work fine. Have changed the battery still not working. The gear shift is freely moveable.

in your underhood electrical center there is a starter relay and a fuse which is 40 amp. they should be clearly marked on the inside of the cover. check thosee to see if one of those are bad first. You could also have a bad starter. it cold be another problem like a neutral safety switch or bad ignition switch. But usually it's either a relay or something similar. If it's not one of those then take it to a pro they will figure it out and will cost you less money.....

Wont crank in park. Will crank in neutral but wont start. Also I can move the gear shift without touching the brake. Also will not unlock locks when turning the key off. T his was the first thing I noticed after driving and stopping. Then it would not crank. It did start once in neutral then I turned it off and it cranked but wouldn't start. I tried a new ignition switch. Could this be the paddock or maybe the lock cylinder?

check fuses underhjood first then try resetting anti theft system(see pic).if stillnot starting scan for codes and check fuel pressure.

I tried the reset. My security indicator does not even come on during this process to turn itself back off. I checked all ignition fuses and even fuses. I am stranded and have no way to check fuel pressure. Truck will start with starter fluid. It seems my fuel has been blocked out. Is it possible the contact in the lock cylinder is bad and wont let the paddock reset.

no it' a fuel problem, probably your pump went out, try smacking bottom of tank with rubber hammer or flat of hand it may start but no guarantee of how lon git will run.

What could be causing the other electrical issues I mentioned?

At first sometimes it would start and sometimes it would not and then nothing. It would crank but it would not start. I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel lines, and I just changed the camshaft positioning sensor and it still cranks without starting. If I use starting fluid it causes it to almost backfire. What else could it be?

yo may not be getting poer to shift interlock system or it broke. depending on column or floor shift is where lock is located. if trans was recent ly replaced the switch on side of trans may not be adjusted correctly as well. check fuses and relay s for door locks as they may be dirty and causing connection problems otherwise it wil need scanning to see what's wrong by a pro.

try resetting security system see pic on how to do it

Not to be a pain but what would cause it no to crank over in park but crank in neutral.

Did you get my last question?

I already answered abou the not cranking in other reply. if trans was recent ly replaced the switch on side of trans may not be adjusted correctly as well

Electrical problem
2003 Chevy Avalanche Four Wheel Drive Automatic 109,00 miles

I just got this 2003 chevy avalanche from a dealership, I ran out of gas and put about 5 gals back into it and tried and start it. It wont start and it wont even turn over.

If you can hear the fuel pump for a few secs -check the fuel pressure with a guage to verify if the fuel pump is producing the correct fuel pressure-running it dry can fry the fuel pump

Nothing has been changed. Like I said this all happened at the same time very quickly after a long trip.

then it may be abad neutral switch along with the other stuff i'v suggested.

My Avalanche stalled at a red light, I tried to restart it but it will not do anything except sputter a little. I had the truck towed home and check the obvious problems. The seems to fuel at injectors. I traced the fuel line and found a check connection and there was fuel there. For the last several months it has been ideling at 500 RPM when stopped at a light and I have noticed the RPM wavering somewhat usually 100 - 200 RPM but it would always return to 500 RPM. I recently changed the fuel filter (last 6 months). When driving at highway speeds there is no loss of power.

How much fuel is present.You will need to check this with a mechanical gauge.Depending on theengine (8th digit of the vin #) the pressure should be 55-62 psi for all engines except "Z" and 48-52 for the "Z" engine code. You are at the mileage when GM pumps usually give up, so check this first

[quote:3d3ac7d407="2CarPros Jack"]How much fuel is present.You will need to check this with a mechanical gauge.Depending on theengine (8th digit of the vin #) the pressure should be 55-62 psi for all engines except "Z" and 48-52 for the "Z" engine code. You are at the mileage when GM pumps usually give up, so check this first[/quote:3d3ac7d407]
I'm not getting fuel to the injectors, and after checking my pump there is no pressure or fuel. I am fairly well mechnically inclined so would changing the fuel pump something I could do in my drive? I'm assuming the tank is held on by two straps, not sure what happens when I drop the tank...any hints on what to expect and what to watch out for?

[quote:3c5656c47b="2CarPros Jack"]How much fuel is present.You will need to check this with a mechanical gauge.Depending on theengine (8th digit of the vin #) the pressure should be 55-62 psi for all engines except "Z" and 48-52 for the "Z" engine code. You are at the mileage when GM pumps usually give up, so check this first[/quote:3c5656c47b]
I'm not getting fuel to the injectors, and after checking my pump there is no pressure or fuel. I am fairly well mechnically inclined so would changing the fuel pump something I could do in my drive? I'm assuming the tank is held on by two straps, not sure what happens when I drop the tank...any hints on what to expect and what to watch out for?

Fuel weighs 6 lbs per gallon, so if you dont siphon the tank out, be aware of the weight.It is something that you can do in the driveway, butif you can enlist someone to help balance thetank it will be very helpful.The lines attach at the top of thetank unit, you will need a release tool to get them off, they are available at any auto parts store.I strongly advise you use an A/C Delco pump.I have seen too many aftermarkets have issues and have to be removed and repalced with a high quality unit.