cranks, won't start

1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
127,000 MILES • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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LOWTECH55
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Me too - leaky coil

I just finished up a couple months of fooling around with a 97 Astro that would quit without warning, fire back up sometimes, sometimes not. It would run all day one day, then not start the next. I make service calls, putting on 100-150 miles a day. I don't enjoy getting stuck far from home, or spending a lot of unnecessary money.

Well, now I can say, with only a little trepidation, that it is finally fixed. I had the same problem that Chubber22 posted under 1996 Chevy Astro won't start: a bad ignition coil. Here's my story. Hope it helps someone.

I bought the van used about two and a half years, and 68K ago. The fuel pump was noisy all along, with a high pitched whine which would get louder on hot days, but it worked nonetheless. One day back in September we had a heat wave up into the 90s. The fuel pump got louder than ever. Then the van started stalling pulling out from a stop. But it would restart right away. Then it also started stalling on right hand turns, but again would restart. My tank was full. This happened all on one day. I suspected the fuel pump, and took it to a local garage the next day.

They kept it all day. They said there were no codes. They said it ran fine all day long for them. They used it to run errands with a scanner hooked up. It was the old "can't fix it if it ain't broke". I went home $85 and a quarter tank of gas lighter. Two days later the van quit altogether.

The AAA tow guy got it started by thumping on the bottom of the gas tank while I cranked it, further proof it was indeed the fuel pump. I bought a pump from an internet store and installed it myself, saving at least $400. The nylon mesh filter sock on my pump was virtually blocked with dark varnish-looking material. Other than that the inside of the tank was clean as a whistle. I assume the pump wore out from straining against a blocked intake filter. I was also in the habit of running the tank down to E before refilling, something Chevrolet advises against because the upper pump bearing will overheat when it isn't submerged in gas. I know better now. I also replaced the filter. The van ran great again. I did feel a little uneasy though, because I don't understand how a failing pump would account for stalling when pulling out or going around corners. But there was no doubt it needed a pump.

Fast forward two months and 4000 miles, it quits again pulling out from a stop. It won't restart. I try on and off for a half hour and it won't start. My wife comes to get me, and an hour after it first quit, it starts. I drive it home and park it. The next day it won't start. Or the next. This time I can hear the fuel pump running. So for the time being I'm going to assume it isn't a fuel problem I'm having this time.

I pull off the doghouse to take a look at things, and pull the coil wire out of the dist cap to see if I have spark. I crank it and I do indeed have spark, and not only that, doesn't it start right up! Figures. So far I've proved nothing and I've fixed nothing, but it runs. How frustrating.

I pull the plugs. They are original (127,000 miles) so I replace them, though I don't believe they have anything to do with my problem. I replace the original cap & rotor though they don't look like they're a problem either. My 97 isn't experiencing that moisture in the distributor problem I've been reading about online. And never at any point in all this did my van miss or start hard. When it ran, it ran great, and when it didn't, it didn't. I'm at a loss.

So, since it's running again, I use it for two days straight with no problems. On the third day it won't start. I'm really discouraged and disgusted now. I love how this vortec van runs, so much more than my 92 Astro, but I'm about ready to trade it in on something else.

I take one last stab at it. I pull the doghouse and check for spark again. There is none. No spark. Now I'm getting somewhere, maybe. I'm working outside because I can't get in the garage because the van won't start and I'm cursing the waning daylight. Then, as I'm cranking the engine and simultaneously pushing and pulling on harnesses and wires and components, I see arcing tracing down the coil tower and coil body! Now that it got a little darker outside, I see it! I have a bad coil, definitely!

And I'm now back on the road.

That still doesn't explain why it quit while pulling out from a stop though...........
Coincidence?
Jan 15, 2008 at 2:55 PM
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2CARPRO JACK
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Harder throttle requires more from the coil. If it is borderline,then under high demand it will short out.

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
Jan 15, 2008 at 5:27 PM
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EJSTADLER
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I had this problem had to get a new crankshaft angle sensor all fixed the guide was great BTW
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM
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LZHLPM
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dear with 166000 mile 4.3l .about a year ago I did a tune up, new plug wire and plugs but now am having touble. have replaced coil distributor cap and rotor.
my trouble is my 1997 chev astro van will not start when it rains or heavy dew.
it runs fine when dry or during a rain storm.but rain It will turn over, there is gas,there is spark from coil but none from distributor to plugs but if i add a wire and plug to ground there is spark or if I turn the distributor (made hole bigger) there is spark, just no ignition and when you shut the key off, it acts like it wants to start. I have had it put on a computer diagnostic, but nothing was found. new distributor cap, and rotor. If you let it sit until the dew is gone, it starts with no problem. Any thoughts on the problem?
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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ZGOLAR
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I have the same problem wit my 99 shevy sliverado 4.3. There is a few things I would check. Start checking that all your srscors are not corroaded and all have a clean connection. As there is wide spread problems with mositure getting in when corroded. next thing I would check is the cap it self as they are known to be bad. There should be vent holes in the bottom with screens make sure they are clear. also check the coil and make sure that it is not arcing out there may be a crack in it where mositure is getting in. the last thing I would check is the fuel prussure to make sure that is correct as the pumps are noted to go bad and can cause problems. Goog luck...
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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CARLANGAS5
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I did tune up to my van after do not start, i change
distruibuidor cap, rotor, sparks, sparks wires, fuel pump
fuel filter, and still dead
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Hello,

Ok, will need more info on problem before continueing on....

When you say do not start does it.....

Turn over just not start

or

Doesn't do anything or you just here a click or clicking noise.


.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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CARLANGAS5
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When I did the tune up the car was working good, after the tune up is not working
I checked the fuel pressure and it was low, I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wire. It still does not run. When I put some gas directly into the throttle body it works, but after it runs out the car stops.

By it not starting I mean it's not running, the engine rotates but doesn't start
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Ok, when you turn the key to the "ON" position without starting, can you hear the fuel pump turn on for a 3 - 5 seconds?

If not check the relay.

Also when you changed the Pump did you change the Wiring Harness?


.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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CARLANGAS5
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When I turn the key on I hear the fuel pump works. I put a new relay too. My question was why when I put the starting fuel, it works and after it runs out it stops. I have sparks but I haven't checked the ignition switch module.

I also changed the wiring harness.

Where do you think is the problem?
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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OBXAUTOMEDIC
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I believe your problem is with the Injectors below is a pic of what it looks like and is usually replaced as a unit. I say this because you can spray or put fuel in the throttle body and it will start up and run till uses fuel up. It is also common with your situation.


https://www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/199246/original.jpg

Jul 18, 2019 at 10:08 AM (Merged)
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MGTPAINT
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For several months my van keeps dying, and does not start sometimes in the morning. When it would die it would start back up after about 15 minutes. In the morning it would take sometimes 45 minutes just to get it to start.I put a new battery in it, and is still doing it. The problem only occurs when it is either raining or snowing or it's very mosit/humid out. The van when it runs, runs like a champ.Just woundering if you could give me some do it your self ideas, before I junk it. I am lost on what it could be. The final straw was the other day when it was snowing bad and all of a sudden it started smoking inside the van and out it was a thick blue black smoke.Coolant spilled everywhere, and I was getting no oil pressure.I would greatly appreciate some advice.Thanks so much.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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BILLYMAC
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hi billymac here.well this prob is most likely not going to be just one thing.but let,s break it down to the no start prob. the most likely suspect would be a distributor prob either a cracked cap or a cap seal missing or broken. another possibility would be plug wires. the best place to start is with a good tune up wires plugs cap rotor fuel filter pcv air filter oil change.this will cure most probs of this nature. but to accurately diagnose a prob like this we would need to know at the time it won,t start something it needs to run is missing.fuel spark compression fuel pressure.ofcourse none of these are suscepital to moisture. but then a good tune up never hurts.another thing to check at nite eng running open hood do you see arching from wires.if yes bad wires.hope this helps .billymac
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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BADGTO
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Will not fire, have checked and changed coil, module, had both checked and were good, changed with new that were also good and still nothing. Changed distributor out of running truck with bad engine. Fuel pump was replaced just prior to this. Was firing then and ran app. 15 mins. before not starting again. Looked at all connections and can't find nothing there. Should I buy a ecm?? Any help appreciated!!
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. What is the fuel pressure spec?

Any applicable trouble codes? Which is it, an astro or silverado. I don't believe the astro came with a v8.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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BADGTO
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No codes, and no fire anywhere. Had just replaced the fuel pump, pressure now good and had ran app. 15 mins had started and shut it off a few times in that span. Went to move it to front of house when it has not started again.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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If no spark, check primary voltage at the ignition coil, pink wire, goes hot with the key on. That voltage comes from the ecm 1 fuse, underhood fuse box. There are several circuits that get voltage off that one fuse. Hope it isn't blown.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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BADGTO
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Everything has voltage, that I can tell. No fuses blown or grounds lose or anything that I can find. Has left me wondering if ecm has up and gone bad. Not sure what else to check or how to. The only thing I haven't changed is the ecm and the crank sensor, and ignition switch. Not sure how much each, other than ecm, they play a roll in firing. Thanks again for the help!!
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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MUGZY
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Although i did run but hard to start when hot, I had a cam position sensor code so I replaced the cam sensor and no it won't start. I put the old one back and it still won't start. I went and got another cam sensor still nothing. The engine fuse for that circut keeps blowing. I traced it to a shorted heated O2 sensor and replaced it the fuse no longer blows but he ignition relay gets warm very quickly. Replace ignition switch, coil, moduel, map sensor, throttle position sensor, computor ad still no start. This all started will I was cranking to line up the open notch in the destributor to remove the cam sensor. I pulled the whole engine harness and found nothing wrong.???????????????
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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I didn't see ignition relay? Which fuse was blowing? Do you see anything in the picture that you recognize? OK, I did find a upfitter ignition relay, not sure what circuits that controls, unless trailer wiring harness?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_astro_relay_center_underhood_1.jpg

Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Can you communicate with pcm? Can you unplug a sensor and force the pcm to set a code? To check for codes, at the least, you need an obd2 code reader.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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MUGZY
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It's the one labeled Eng-1 that has the camshaft, o2, egr, ect. So far the drivers side O2 sensor tested dead short in every wire, and prior to this the code scanner called to change the cam, throttle, and map sensors. Plus an ohms test on the crank sensor show to be week but still able to opperate but I just went and changed it any way. It has an alarm system on it so I just swapped out the ignition switch to by pass all the alarm circuts. I have plenty of fuel pressure ands a noid test on the injector system showed all are flashing. It's like the PCM/VCM what ever you wonna call it won't sink in timing and fuel. When I stop cranking it some times diesels about 1 revoloution. Some how it sounds like it's firing 180 degrees of timing but the destributor was never removed and there is no play at all on my timing gears. I am a certified mechanic with 12 years under my belt and never have a vehicle kick my but like this one. There has never been a vehicle I couldn't fix but this one has just broke my record. I've never been to proud to ask my friends in the bussiness for advice, this time their all stumped. So in short I'm getting fuel and spark to the cylinder but not at the right time. starting fluid won't work either but it does stop the dieseling after I spray. The relay getting warm when sitting was the ignition switch was turned too far back to accessory so that one is solved. I never change parts unless I know for sure it's bad or faulty. If questionable I take the old part to the part store with me and ohms test it up against two new ones to be sure. If the values don't match or a at least close I change it. I just walk away from it for a day to get my head cleared and start fresh tommorow. One thing for sure is I no longer have a wirng short and there are no more codes on the scanner, out of all the old sensors the only one the scanner picks up as bad when placed back on the engine is the throttle position sensor. Apparently it won't read the rest unless it's running. Did I leave anything out???
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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BADGTO
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Oh, btw omit the Astro part of title. Just now realised it said that. Not sure how that got there. Anyway Haven't tried the communicate part, will get code reader and check. Thanks!
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Sounds like your way ahead of me. Is there any compression? How do you know gas is getting into the cylinder? Does this have the spider fuel system? Are the plugs wet?
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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I've seen titles like that before, don't know why that happens? They are working on the site, don't know if that has anything to do with it?
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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BWALKER05
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I have a 1997 Astro Van which was having problems with spontaneously stalling. It happened in October and it would crank but would not start. I had it towed, it sat a month or so, I replaced a fuel filter (the fuel pump was replaced a year ago) and it started and ran fine for about 2 months. Then it started to sometimes, on rare occassion seem like it was going to shut off when you were driving, but would be okay. It did one day but I was able to get it started back up. I thought that the fuel system could need flushed as we are guilty of sometimes running on E or close to E and after parking it at the garage, it would not start back up. I had it towed again, tried replacing the crank shaft sensor and that did not work. I have also noticed that I am not getting any spark in the distributor. I am desperate!!!
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Hello, is there any primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, goes hot with the key on? With the key on any voltage at the fuel injectors?
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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BWALKER05
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I'm not sure, I had a friend look at it and he told me it was not getting spark at the distributor. How could I test this?
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Hi, there are several ways to check for spark. You can take a plug-boot loose from a spark plug. Use a known good plug or spark tester in the boot. Ground tester or metal part of plug to metal part of engine. Have a helper crank the engine, while you watch for spark at the plug or tester. If no spark, take the coil wire loose from the dist cap, hold close to engine ground, watch for spark to jump as engine is cranked.

If the injectors are pulsing during testing, you may flood the cylinders, making the vehicle even harder to start.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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VERLA
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new fuel pump and filter. If i use starter fluid to start
it it will run fine and start ok. Let it set for a few hours and it will not start unless i use starter fluid again.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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So the engine totally cools then is hard to start? If so check the ect(engine coolant temp) sensor. it's betwwen the first or last two cylinders on the drivers side head. Replace when the engine is cold.
Other possibilty is Last tune up, new plugs wires, and fuel filter was? And also Fuel pressure regulator.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Hi Verla,Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Check your fuel pressure, if ok,test the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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MJTVILLE
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This has been a very good work vehicle for me and I can not believe how reliable it has been. Anyways...the battery is about a year old, alternator is charging fine and when it starts, the engine runs great. The issue that just started is when I turn the key to the on position all instrument lights come on as always, turn the key to start, I hear the fuel pump, and a click of the starter relay in the engine compartment but no starter or solenoid click. Fuses all check out as good and I swapped relays in engine compartment. This has happened about three times in the past year, and after a few minutes, it would start right up. As of two days ago, nothing. I was able to start it with a screw driver at the starter to get the van home, but still not starting with key. Where do I start with trouble shooting and repair? Thanks so much.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi:
It sounds like the ignition switch may be going bad. If the car starts when you jump the starter, that indicates that there is no problem with the security system, fuel, or ignition. The only thing I can suggest is to have the switch checked and go from there. With 300K on it, the switch may just be wearing out.

Joe
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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KIDDER
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Iv done a whole tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor. Iv seald the cap with silacone to make sure it was sealed but still fails to start when its wet. After cranking it for 20 mins it starts then is fine. One time i was driving and it stated snow really hard so hard i could only see like 5 yards in front of me and the my van cut out it took like 30 mins to crank and finally fire up and run. It like the more you crank it its drying something out i dont get it help me please
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I need you to test something. When it is dark out, open the hood and start the engine. Spray a light mist of water over the ignition wires, distributor car, coil... to see if anything is arcing.

Let me know what you find.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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MADMACS4417
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my engine was hard starting,now won't start unless i use start fluid.once its warm, starts first click and runs great.does not throw any codes,fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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JAMES W.
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I woudl change the engine temp sensor. I could be telling the ECM the motor it is warmer than it is on cold start.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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MANY324
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Noises problem
1997 Chevy Astro Two Wheel Drive Automatic

when i parked for more 4 hours
it si hard to start it cranks but it won`t start. after many trys finally it starts.
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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MHPAUTOS
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Hi there, Get the fuel pressure tested and have a general tune up including a scan for any unresolved fault codes, start here.

mark (mhpautos)
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)
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TECHMAN1
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[quote:06f61544da="many324"]Noises problem
1997 Chevy Astro Two Wheel Drive Automatic

when i parked for more 4 hours
it si hard to start it cranks but it won`t start. after many trys finally it starts.[/quote:06f61544da]

So is your fuel pump relay bad? Try this simple test. Right above your battery is a relay box. The fuel pump relay and the air conditioner enable relay are the same and right side by side. Swap them and see if your problem goes away.

Ken
Jul 18, 2019 at 10:09 AM (Merged)