starter not working

Hello,

Did you check to see if battery terminals are tight on the battery posts? (+) to (+) and (-) to (-)? Also check your fusible links.I have also included in the diagrams down below a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that might interest you. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out.

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

My 02 Escape 4WD is stuck in R and won't start. I used the by pass on the steering colum and the shifter moves but, no gears catch? My check engine light is now on. If I disconnect the battery would that stop it from jumping and running me over? I plan to look under the truck to check the shift cable when I have day light.

Yes, checking the cable would be a good idea. Be sure to block the wheels from rolling before going under there and moving anything.

Thanks for the response. Will the disconnected battery prevent it from moving. I am stuck on a pile of snow and ice, I am going to chop some out so I can gain clearance. Don't know what kind of chock I can use on bumpy snow/ice. I have no idea where the cable is so I will check all to see what is disconnected/loose. I can't find a diagram on line to help me locate it either.

No, disconnecting the battery won't help if you move the shifter lever while you're under the truck.

Shifter is already stuck in reverse. So could it pop into gear when I reconnect if the cable came off or loose?

Maybe you just need to have this towed to a shop. There is not likely anything you can do for it anyway.

My 02 Escape 4WD automatic is stuck in R and won't start. I used the by pass on the steering colum and the shifter moves but, no gears catch? My check engine light is now on. If I disconnect the battery would that stop it from jumping and running me over? I plan to look under the truck to check the shift cable when I have day light.

If you have any concern of the vehicle moving and running you over, make sure the park brake is on and the wheel/tires are blocked. As far as the problem, it sounds like a linkage problem.

Ok, so my truck's been running great since I had the IAC replaced...then last night, some wires were disconnected (not by me, daughter's friend was trying to stop the chime...don't know why) and it wouldn't start when we got ready to leave. I mean NOTHING, no click, grunt, nothing. We tried to jump it off...they thought since the radio had been playing it was just a weak battery, but it still wouldn't crank. My neighbor put the scanner on it and said it was the anti theft system. I don't know what to do...I'm a single mother on a limited income...can't afford to take it to the dealership and get screwed over...any suggestions??

Well I hate to say it but unless you have 2 working keys the dealer is the only one that can fix it. It sounds like what they unplugged was the transponder for the key. So the car sees the wrong key because it no longer is programmed to read the key. Before taking it in if you have another key try it just to be sure. If it still won't start then you will need to take it to the dealer to have them reprogram the keys so the transponder can read them. It should be about 100 dollars. Wish I had better news but I don't.

We have followed back this issue that caused the car not to start today and we discovered under the drivers seat that all wires burned and melted together and now the wires have been mended and separated. The car now won't even turn over. I started it only once after doing most wires and it started but wouldn't shut off. So now I'm stuck. Reset thinking?? How

if the wires melted there it may have done something else to another module however try resetting your security if no manual look online.

I have recently had trouble starting my Escape at any time- morning, after driving and stopping briefly, etc. If I put the key in, the lights go on, the radio works, the fan blower comes on, etc. I however get no cranking- no clicking, no failure to start, no cranking at all. Sometimes I will take the key out and repeat and eventually it will crank and start right up. If I use the auto start, it usually fires right up. I will say the battery is the original and will be replaced soon, but would I have all those auxilaries if the battery was bad? It is just odd to get nothing. I also tried the other key (the backup that is not used as much) since I figured maybe the microchip had gotten zapped somehow. Switching keys made no difference. I hope this is not a $600 repair! Any ideas are appreciated.

you either have a fault on the wiring between ignition switch and starter or your ignition switch is faulty .. check wires at starter .. loose/corroded etc. .. if no fault found we could replace the ignition switch .. let me know

I have a 2002 Ford Escape that when I go to start it it is dead. The lights radio etc work but it is dead. After a try or twq it will turn over.There is no clicking of any sort indicating it may be the starter it is just dead?

Check your fuses--owners manual may Narrow down the search and the locations of all fuse compartments

I cannot be more blunt than this----DO NOT PASS THINGS OFF AS: "IT LOOKS GOOD!"

I will explain this really simple.....Remove / clean / tighten every connection (I mean every thing that has a nut bolt or screw) Starting at the Positive Battery connections---to the solenoid connections---starter itself/////////////Then do the Negative side--Grounds and anything along the cables travel

LETS SEE WHAT YOU GOT NOW

The Medic

You might also try to charge your battery or jump start your rig, If that works well, a ride to Autozone or Advance Auto and have your BATTERY and ALTERNATOR checked out...FOR FREE!!! ........I sorta read your question too fast--dats why I came back

The Medic

Hi I have a question about my car. It used to start right away when I hit the ignition, but now it turns over for a little bit before it fires up? I have around 60,000 miles if that helps. Is there something I can do to check it out?

this could be anything really if your check engine light is not on check your fuel pressure if it's low it may cause this as well as a fuel filter. Spark plugs may be a bit wider so it may not do like new plugs . If it started on one turn over and now takes 5 I really wouldnt' worry about it. the vehicle is 10 yrs old so they don't quite do like the newer ones.

Alternator was tested and was bad. I changed the alternator, hooked up the jumper cables, and started the vehicle. I let it run about 30 seconds and disconnected the cables. It continued to run about 30 seconds then cut off. I hooked the cables back up and got back in the vehicle to start it up. I smelled a burnt smell inside the cab. I tried to restart the vehicle, but now it won't turn over. Everything else will work, lights, radio, power windows, etc. (that is with the jumper cables hooked up), but the engine won't turn over . I took the battery out and charged it. I put it back in and it showed 12 volts. The engine still wouldn't turn over. After trying for a few seconds, I checked the voltage again and it was 6 volts. I looked under the hood at my connections and about 10 minutes later the voltage was 0 . Is this a short in the charging/ignition systems? How likely is it that the plug to the alternator , being 12 years old , is the culprit? Possibly being brittle, was damaged when I removed it.

Sounds more like you have a bad battery. When it is fully discharged, you'll still read 12.2 volts. To draw a good battery down to 6 volts you would have to have such a huge load on it, like a wrench dropped across the posts. I think it's more likely you weren't making good contact with the meter probes. I've been fixing tvs for 40 years, and that has happened to me all the time.

What I would try next is to get a good battery / clean the connections / or use jumper cables to get voltage on the battery cables, then measure the voltage on the output terminal on the generator. If you find 0 volts there, a fuse or a fuse link wire is burned open. The generator may be working but the current can't get back to the battery. Sometimes Ford likes to tap off that terminal to feed other circuits, and that could explain the no-crank problem.

You didn't say how the old unit failed. If it had two shorted internal diodes, that would have burned open the fuse, but if that was a fuse link wire, there would be a carbon track left behind. It's also possible for those wires to corrode and just partially open up. Either way, the strong current from the new generator trying to charge the battery would finish the job. Usually you won't smell that though.

2002 Ford Escape 6 cyl

let the car idle for 15 minutes, went back to start it, will not start, thought it was battery, changed the battery and same problem, will not start

I need more info on this one. am more than willing to help

I've got a Ford Escape 2002 , it was running fine then al of a sudden would not start. The theft light blinks when the doors are shut, when the doors are open the ope door light blinks kindof fast. The battery is completely dead but...When I hook another car up all lights work but all I get is a clicking noise when I go to turn it over. As soon as I unhook the jumpers the battery immediatly goes dead. I'm hoping this is just a simple dead battery issue but the only thing that's wierd is the blinking door ajar lights and the fact that when the key is out the odometer and gauge selector is still on. Any advice or commenet would be great. Thanks

you havn't got any different keys have you or like had one made. i would try a fresh battery or have that one charged real good. with the theft light flashing like that it won't start it has gone into lock mode and won't start.that is why i was asking about the key deal the key that come with the truck have a chip built into it if anyother is used it will lock it down .and the battery may be the problem(NOS) 8)

Will not crank, does not spark at battery.

It sound like the battery has gone bad, here is a guide to help you get it changed out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Let me know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

the shifter is in park but the dash readout says its still in drive and the car wont start....changing the position of the shifter doesn't change anything . car wont start when the shifter is in neutral or park ....my obd tool wont connect to the computer to check for error codes..the dealer called and they don't know whats wrong and they cant connect to the computer either....when I couldn't start the car I did jumper the battery and wrongly connected the terminals briefly in case that matters here....the battery shows full charge no check lights or alt lights before it died..I drove the car 200 miles parked it the driveway and came back 5 minutes later and it wouldn't start...any help greatly appreciated.............Wayne

Are you sure the linkage is connected?

sorry I don't know the dealer has the car at the moment..I don't know how to check that myself though...I was dismayed when the dealer called and said they couldnt figure it out and were hoping for more info from me.....could I have damaged the computer when I toched the wrong cables when I jumpered the battery?

It could have.

The truck was parked 2 weeks ago and started up fine, now all it does is crank, but does not turn over. We have tried the lights while cranking the motor, but it is not the battery. Do you have any suggestions of what could be wrong?

ok,a final update...the car is fixed the dealer said it was a corroded wire under the battery box. no parts were replaced $194 bill..........man I came very close to buying a new pcm on ebay glad I didnt, I went to the dealer to get the numbers off the pcm and the car was in the lot so just for jiggles I tried to start the car and voila it started right up....seems like a lot of money for what they fixed but its all labor.......thanks for your kind input guys........Wayne

start with fuel pressure check. the pump may have failed

Roy

Glad you got it fixed.

Take care,
Joe

We know it is getting gas, we have also checked the fuel pump cut off behind kick plate on the passenger side

what is the pressure?? the pump could be working but not giving pressure

Roy

I put a new battery in my car but every couple of days it won't start without a jump. I had it checked and the mechanic said it was not the starter or the alternater. What else could cause it not to start?

Need to have BATTERY DRAIN TEST
NOTE: Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on equipment package. Compare to a comparable vehicle for reference. No production vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.
BATTERY DRAIN TEST
1.Ensure junction box/fuse panels are accessible without turning on interior and hood lights. Drive vehicle over 30 MPH for at least 5 minutes. Park vehicle and allow to sit with ignition off for at least 40 minutes to allow electronic modules to power down. Go to next step.
2.Connect a fused jumper wire between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Disconnect negative battery cable from negative battery post, without breaking the jumper wire connection to prevent modules from resetting. Go to next step.
NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between negative battery post and negative battery cable when disconnecting battery cable or connecting ammeter. If continuity is broken, go to step 1 .
3.Ensure ammeter is set to read milliamps with at least a 10 amp capability. Connect ammeter between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Remove fused jumper wire. Go to next step.
4.If excessive current draw is present (50 mA or more), pull fuses from battery/central junction box one at a time and note any current drop when each fuse is removed. DO NOT reinstall fuses until test is complete. Go to next step.
5.Check wiring diagrams for any circuits that run from battery without passing through battery/central junction box. Disconnect these circuits if current draw still exists. Repair appropriate circuits as necessary.