Car jerks and misfires?

Hi,

We need to start with checking for codes however, I would make sure you have a dealer check this out because it may still be covered under warranty. If it is, there it would be ok to do some checking but if the dealer finds things out of place they may try to blame you for the issue. So you don't want to give them any reason to think that by digging to deep into it.

As for what it sounds like, it seems as if the torque converter is stuck so once you put it in gear, it stalls the unit. This is like putting a manual in gear and then letting off the clutch without accelerating and it just stalls the engine. While the torque converter operates differently than this, the idea is the same.

Here are two guides to help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down these guides and report back.

Ive replaced spark plugs,and coil packs but my car is still reporting misfire in cylinder 3 and fuel ratio imbalace. Is there anything else to check?

Hi,

Can you provide the codes you are getting? Also, what engine size does the vehicle have? Is it a 1.8L or a 2.4L?

You could confirm fuel pump pressure is within spec. Here is a link that shows in general how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

________________________________________

Let me know.

Joe

Let me know.

Joe

i have a problem that when i start my corolla there is hesitation in the beginning and when i press the pedal it will be fine .. the obd result was p0302

Hello,

I would start with a tune up using OEM parts to ensure quality. Here is a guide to help you after the job is done clear the codes.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

and to clear codes

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Please run down these guides and report back.

Thanks for this post I had this problem and the tune up fixed it, get video on how to clear codes BTW I Love this site.

valves ping feels weak number one and number four cylinders not firing properly. cannot seem to find out why cylinders are breaking. replaced power packs and new iridium plugs still does it.

I would do a compression test first. check this link on how you can do it at home. Post your readings for further assistance.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Car started to miss badly and run poorly overall. Had car worked on by mechanic but to no avail. Have changed all four coil packs, new plugs, one new injector, gaskets all around, cleaned throttle body, checked for intake leaks, basically the whole nine yards and it still is misfiring. Before all the fixes, the car would not even hold idle without giving gas to engine. Could not come to a stop without shutting off. I have resorted to asking for other outside opinions since I have ran into a wall and do not want to keep throwing parts at it. It now holds a steady park idle at ~1200-1300 RPM and once in gear holds at ~800-900 RPM. This is much better than before but now after driving car for a bit, car will jerk and go into limp mode, limiting car to roughly 60 MPH. Need advice on what could possibly be wrong.

Hello,

It sounds like you have a low compression issue but we should run the codes to see what comes up here is guide to get us started.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

The only codes that are present now are a cylinder four misfire. I cannot remember the exact number. But this is the code that originally was thrown. Compression test has been ran and seems to be fine.

It sounds like it can be a camshaft issue does the engine sounds normal? I would remove the valve cover the make sure the valve springs and camshaft lobes are okay. Check all cylinders because then can affect #4.

This guide will get you started.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-valve-cover-gasket

Hi,

For sometime now, when ever i drive a long distance after a while when the engine is hot, the car will be jerking and it will be moving slowly, especially when I am in traffic hold, the car will jerk and go off on its own. I have change coil and bought two fuel pumps, but am still experiencing the same issue.
please help.

Hello,

This sounds like you have an engine misfire issue. We should run the codes first have you installed new spark plugs?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Please run down these guides and report back.

After scanning the car, these are the code i got: P0010, P0012, P0328. Please what should i do?

These are camshaft actuator errors which can be caused by dirty/low engine oil levels. can you check or change the oil? Here is a guide to help. Once complete please clear the codes and try it again.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-engine-oil-and-filter

Please run down this guide and report back.

dear sir
my car is very good in condition.but today its engine is race missing too much.please help me

If you are saying the engine idle is too high and engine is missing, it is most likely caused by a vacuum leak, this would be a big leak, like the intake manifold.

If the engine is cold the car will idle okay until put in drive, then idle gets a little rough. Giving gas to drive off the car will choke out in a large burp like fashion. Engine does not shut off, it is like a total misfire or total half-second choke-out. This continues until engine is up to operating temperature. Never happens when driving highway speed fifty, sixty, seventy mph.

First I would like to know if there are any codes in the computer that may point us in the right direction. It sounds like there may be an issue with the coolant temperature sensor. If the engine thinks it already warm, the fuel mixture will be lean which can cause the issues you described.

Car quit running yesterday. Son heard all sorts of knocking, loss of pwr. Turned if off, ckd oil (good) and and called for help. By the time I arrived, car was cool. Stuck in key and it fired right up, ran fine. Follow him home for about 2 miles then problem came back. Engine misfiring. Knocking noise too, but probably from motor mounts. We towed it home. Went out this morning and it fired right up, ran fine. Drove around w/no issues at all. Can't reproduce...intermittent problem. MIL is not on either.

Thinking a "soft" coil, perhaps even crank/cam sensor issue(s). Any thoughts or troubleshooting tips to share?

The knocking has me concerned. Was there any smoke from the exhaust when this was happening?

The knocking only occurs when the engine is misfiring. I believe that's coming from one of the rear motor mounts (the car has been wrecked in the front before). There is no smoke from the exhaust when this happens.

After a bit of checking, I think this issue came about as 1) some bad gas (water) and 2) perhaps a sticky injector. I treated the fuel with the typical water absorb / fuel injector cleaner. I drove it for over 40 miles today and it hasn't exhibited any misfiring issues at all.

Odd part of all this is that the check engine light never was tripped. I'd think that any type of misfire would have tripped the check engine light, but perhaps that only happens when there is an electrical misfire.

Dec 26, 2020 at 2:04 PM (Merged)

This problem is gradually getting worse. The engine is shuddering at irregular intervals when cold, especially idling or when accelerating.The engine almost stalled today when I was at the lights.

However, when the engine is warm, it runs smoothly. It was serviced only a month ago and spark plugs were replaced. Since the symptoms are very specific, I hope someone smart can narrow down the possibilities.

Can you get a scan done to see if it is a specific cylinder or a random misfire? this will help with finding a solution.

It sounds like you have an ignition coil that is going out, is the check engine light on? Pull the codes to see what comes up.

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

I used a Acron CP1980 Scranner and got codes P0300 P3001 and P0302 Which
are multiple and misfires in cylinders 1 and 2. The car runs fine untill it warms up then it misfires. The spark plugs were just replaced. It ran fine after they were replaced but this problem started shortly after.
Could this be the Fuel pump located in the tank.

You would have to perform a fuel pressure test to rule out/in fuel as problem.

Could also be a weak coil.

Isn't there a fuel sensor that should give you a ODB II code on your reader if the problem were fuel related. Like low pressure from the fuel pump or injectors malfunctioning. There is a fuel sensor reading on my Acutron 1980. It just sais Fuel Sensor OK. I think the problem is with one of the 1ZZ-FE coils that sit over the spark plugs. Is there a way to test them using a ohm meter. For say one with a colapsing coil.

Another way to check fuel is to spray starting fluid in TB. If it runs a few seconds, then a fuel problem, if not then ignition.

You can measure primary and secondary resistance with an Ohm meter for coils, frankly not a very accurate procedure.


Shops can test actual coil output in voltage.

You can also switch coils and if miss follows coil, then coil is bad.

Fuel pressure is not monitored by PCM, would probably be a good idea, but cost to monitor would be a factor.

Thanks for the info on the fuel testing what's the TB.
I think I fixed the problem but don't understand why.
When I purchased the $3 NGK's they said to gap at .44 So I opened them up .10 from there factory setting and installed them and shortly after I had the problems with the car. To repair the car I pulled them and went to .38 gap and the problems almost gone. I bet if I go to the original .35 there will be no problem. Now its great though. I also pulled the springs apart inside the Coil housing so they would make better contact. These plugs being platnum I don't think they should have been gapped at all but the auto parts store said they had to be. I think the .44 would be for standard large electrode plugs.

TB = Throttle Body

Gapping is directly related to coil output in voltage. The more voltage the more gap (generally). Compression is also a factor or devices that effect cylinder pressure, like a turbo. High cylinder pressures would require less gap.

engine seems to miss when you go up hills and you pressdown slowly for more fuel as you do all at once it takes off and you have lots of power, some times its ok but 75% of the time not good also hard on fuel when this happens.

Do you have a check engine light?

Have the exhaust system checked for restriction and fuel pressure, also go to these links: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough and https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Hi, so I've owned this car for close to a year. Always trying to keep up on maintenance to it and fixing problems
2 days ago I had replaced the PCV valve and hose then the next day drove about 50 miles to Riverside and back another 50 home. today when I was out and about i decided to check my check engine light (I have a code but already know it and the solution) but now I have a random misfire and cylinder 1,3, and 4 are also misfiring

I checked all plugs and hoses i touch while working on other things that day (suspension stuff) and all are plugged in and attached.

It ran pretty bad this morning (it was colder then normal this morning) the idle was worse then normal and it was shaking a good bit but once it got up to temperature it ran perfect it didn't feel like anything was missing or running oddly.
I would definitely appreciate any aid you guys and or gals can give. thank you

Can you give a little more detail on what the issue is with the PCV? Did you replace it just because it was time or was there an issue?

We need to check for a vacuum leak as that is the most likely cause of this issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Anytime we have a misfire on multiple cylinders (p0300) and then more then one cylinder with hard misfire codes (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304) it is normally something that effects all cylinders equally, like air or fuel.

Due to the recent repair to the PCV we need to start with air side by checking for a vacuum leak.

Let us know about this and we can go from there. Thanks

When I bought it a year ago I asked what all had been replaced recently to know where my tune up and fact checking begin (to see if he actually replaced those items) which he did but the PCV valve wasn't one and I normally do it on any vehicle I buy it's inexpensive and generally simple.
It may be that my computer hasn't registered all the monitors? But I'll definitely check the vacuum tomorrow morning unfortunately I am at work at the moment and unable to do so now, but any other advice you could give is definitely welcomed.
Do you have a preferred way to check for vacuum leaks?

Update you tomorrow, thank you.

The only way the monitors would be an issue is if they were cleared using a scan tool or you disconnected the battery for longer then an hour.

I highly suspect you will find there is a large vacuum leak with this. Check out this guide. It gives the detail on how to check it. Basically it is using parts cleaner and listening for the RPM to raise.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with 66,000 miles on it. When accelerating my car, it becomes bumpy between 20-40 miles per hour. I don’t notice this happening while on the highway. I’ve had a couple of mechanics tell me they think it could be either the coil pack, spark plugs or fuel filter. I have 2 questions. First, how can I test the coils and spark plugs to see if they are good or bad and second, do you have any other suggestions on what might be the problem? Thanks for your help!

Check tires for bulges or cupping (uneven wear across outside to inside of tire tread with high spots). Iridium spark plugs are used in all toyota engines since 2002 from factory which should last 100,000 miles. Check engine light would illuminate with a misfire code if it was bad plugs or coil pack. Shaking within the indicated speeds is most commonly a tire has thrown a weight or is separating.