Intermittent stalling

1993 BUICK CENTURY
179,000 MILES • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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SCOTTBERGIN
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Stalls after starting or sitting at a light. It stalled while driving a couple times but eventually restarted and I made it to work.I have done plugs/wires, tried used coil pack, fairly new fuel pump.
Jan 11, 2010 at 2:15 PM
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JDL
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Welcome to the forum, You could replace parts all day.... You will need to find out what is missing when it wont restart, this will lead to the problem. I have seen these ignition modules cause issues like this before as well as the crankshaft position sensor.

Read these guides, they will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle
Jan 11, 2010 at 2:23 PM
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TBWATRY
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I have a 1993 buick century 3.3l automatic. Lately, the car dies while driving, but it idles great. It doesn't matter if I am going 5 mph or 65 (if i can keep it running long enough to go that fast) but it will just die. It restarts fine and might stay running for a minute or 15 minutes. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 sensor, maf sensor, and tps sensor with no luck. The flash codes are currently 24, 38, and 39. Although this points to the tcc, I am unable to find the wire to disconnect it and am thinking about replacing the crankshaft sensor. Any suggestions???
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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JDL
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Welcome to the forum. The 24 is vehicle speed sensor. 38 has to do with the brake switch. 39 has to do with tcc. because I don't know how old the codes are, I'd erase the codes, drive it, see if anything comes back. How long since a tune-up?

The TCC should be located, low, on front side of transaxle, four wire connector. I can't recommend leaving that unplugged.
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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TBWATRY
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After unplugging the tcc (which is attached to the speed control sensor) the car ran great! no more stalls or hesitation! Are buicks more known for solenoid problems or do you think this is the tcc itself?

Also, could you tell me what could happen if I left this unplugged? I have seen mechanics online post that no harm will come and others say just the opposite.

Thanks
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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JDL
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Hi, The info I looked at was for a century custom. The vss and tcc connectors are not even close to each other. Leaving the tcc unplugged may cause the transaxle to overheat, effect gas mileage. I don't know what else?
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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TBWATRY
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I'm not sure what i unplugged then. It was a single connector on the transaxle with two wires (a brown and a yellow) in the connector. It was the only plug I could find and when I unplugged it the car ran great, but the speedometer didn't work. the tranny is the 4t60, which I am sure you know. I plan to take the car in to have the tcc solenoid replaced.
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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SCUT
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1. Make and Model of your car: Buick Century 1993 3.3 v6 OHV
2. Current odometer reading : 127,000
3. Stick Shift or Automatic Transmission : AT
4. Strange sounds or smells :see below
5. Fluid leaks : see below
6. Past repair history :

I bought the car not to long ago its been only a couple of months. When i first got the car the first problem appeared when I looked at my coolant in the overflow coolant tank and realised that the coolant appeared murky very sludgy brown and disgusting . When the car was given to me i was told that it had a new radiator, water pump, and etc and had put a shitload of stopleak in the coolant "to make it run nice". However I think they put the stop leak in and all of the repairs (which in return became obsolete through rusting) they did because they could not be smart and realise there was a coolant leak in one of the hoses. As soon as i figured this out i replaced the hose ( Upper ). Since then I have flushed the car several times and have even taken the over flow tank out and scrapped the inside walls of it until it looks brand new. From the rust that has collected in the coolant system from the large amounts of stop leak and completely rusted out heater core (the heat in my car has never worked ) everytime i flush it a month later the coolant starts to again turn brown. Though I dont think that this problem has anything to do with the problem occuring now, you ask the car's history. Then the alternator needed replaced. Recently after this the stalling problem began. There is no common gesture of what you are doing with the car when it stalls out. It just does whenever it wants. You will be driving and then all the sudden boom the car is off , no sounds, tinks, or jerking. I ran a scanner on it and the code said it to be the mass air flow sensor. The code read either mass air flow sensor is dirty, defective, or a misfire condition. Originally the problem was very suddle, it would only happen once in a while and the car would start up 10 minutes after it stalled out. However now it has been getting increasingly worse, to the point where my car would not start after it stalled out for 8 hours. It is doing it much more frequently too. As a cheap way to see if it would fix i replaced the spark plugs ( NGK ) and premium wires. Even though the car ran smoother, the stalling would persist. Before I could afford the mass air flow sensor however, there was another vital thing wrong with my car. A nasty, marbles in drier (eventually leading worse and worse) sound came popping from the engine in which i discovered the idler pulley assembly was ceased. I replaced that pronto. Yesterday I finally saved up enough money to get a remanufactured mass air flow sensor from advanced auto parts, put it in my car, drove it down the street, and boom. Stalls out again. I had to leave the car there over night. The car is scarey to drive, no mechanic can tell me what the problem could be. It has been suggested to me to check my ignition module and coil packs. However, I am 19 years old and am out on my own and make 150 bucks a week ( so as you must understand this car has been stressing me out very much ). I do not have the room to play around and keep adding parts that are not fixing the problem. If someone could please, please help me try and figure out what is wrong with my car I would be so ever grateful. Also so just so you know I also have full cat back flow masters and a k&N short custom intake on it. Thankyou - Melissa
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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RODMAN1
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You have two problems:
1. The intake manifold gasket is leaking causing oil and coolant to mix.
2. Your torque cinverter lockup solinoid is starting to malfunction.

#1 problem could also be that the #6 cylinder has a crack around the valve guide area in the head, but the stopleak should have taken care of that.

This engine is very susceptable to the problems above. These problems generally start around 95 K miles
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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AMYDONTKNOW
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Electrical problem
1993 Buick Century V6 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 62000 miles
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We've got a 93 Buick Century and it won't start. At first it would start but wouldn't stay running and now it has no power-no lights, nothing--anyway I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about this? Thanks
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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NDDUNC
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first,check the alternator & battery.if you have power, check the battery cables at the starter [pos]&at the engine[neg] how did it sound when running before?
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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AMYDONTKNOW
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I think all that has been checked, I think it's something to do with the electrical at this point. But when we were trying to jump it, it just quit and now it has nothing.
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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BMRFIXIT
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make sure battery fully charged . check two locations for fusible links 1.:-- at the starter 2.:-- around the battery positive side cable


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Image_2.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Image1_3.jpg

good luck let me know
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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NDDUNC
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bmrfixit seams to have all you need.god bless
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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2003 buick century, just replace fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs and wires what is the problem. just replaced all these parts car will not stay running the car will run but once i apply the brake it dies out but if i restart it will stay started but once again when apply brake it dies out help please
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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SATURNTECH9
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Do you have any codes in the computer?Also in park when applying the brakes the engine will dye?If so could be a leaking brake booster.
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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yes it still dies out
iam at auto zone now trying to see what the codes will be that they give me i will log back on once the codes come up thanks alot
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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ok a lot of electrical codes came up from autozone but once i cut the car off its now not starting at all
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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SATURNTECH9
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What are the exact code numbers you have?Also have the battery tested.Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight.You could have a bad alternator.
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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2003 buick century will not stay started just replaced fuel pump and battery keeps dying out on start what could it be or what can i try plus a new relay put on it. car just died out while i was driving and will not start back up
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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have the fuel pressure checked with a gauge. see if you have spark as it may be a module breaking down or a cran sensor.

Roy
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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hello sorry so long i have codes now thee codes are listed as follows b1216,b1221,b1225,b1232,b1236,b1295 i look up some of them some didnt pop up so can u help me with these.
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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thanka alot but may i ask where is the cran sensor located at and is the module the brain to the car called the ecm and is the pressure suppose to be at 40 psi
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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SATURNTECH9
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Before we explore these codes iam more intrested in why the battery goes dead or the engine wont turn over?That problem can set any number of codes and make us chase are tails.So has the battery and alternator been tested?Also have you made sure the battery cables are clean and tight?
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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pressure 40 lbs, good.
crank senswor is behind the harmonic balancer and the module is under the coil. the pcm is inside the car.

i would not throw expensive parts at the car without someone identifying the failure. you could spend 1000 in guesses that may not work.

Roy
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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Ok the psi is not going past 9 with the fuel pressure check what does that sound like
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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either a bad connection, bad ground or bad pump. what kind of pump did you use??

Roy
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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TAT24U
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the car starts and runs fine for like 10-15 minutes then dies it will start one more time with a little miss then wont start at all unless i floor it to keep it going then stron smell of gas. i changet coil pack fuel pump fuel filter fuel injection regulator and O2 sensor no service engine soon light is on but i manually checked for a possible code and it doesnt show one . i'm lost now and just cant figure it out
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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the upgraded version that buick got, got it from auto advantage it is the wide four pronge now,buick no longer have a three prong
its cranking but will not turn over and stay started
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Check the fuel pressure if its within specs then get back with me-we start here
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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did you check the other things i asked??

Roy
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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TAT24U
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im not surehow to respond to you razmataz but yesthe fuel pressure was at specs
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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no not yet its raining hard out side but i will check in the morning, where might the bad connection be meaning area and i will also check the ground if thats not it what else might i check also thanks alot for the response i will start workin on it at 9:00 am i will post a message back soon as iam done to give results
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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TAT24U
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sorry i just saw this yes i rented the tester and the pressure was within specs and even though it was i figured since it was a 1992 and most everything was original things were getting tired so to speak thats why i really had no problem changing the fuel pump, strainer,filter, and fuel injection pressure regulator
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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lets confirm this basic stuff first.

Roy
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Check the idle air control valve, TPS and MAP sensors and clean out the throttle body-let me know what you find
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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thank you will do
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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TAT24U
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ok i checked all the components mentioned the idle air control valve had a lot of soot on it it had movement but im not sure how much movement it is supposed to have though and with all the sensors i dont know how to check them with a multimeter so all i can tell you or give you is visual information the map sensor had some soot on it but the platinum wires were in tact and the TPS moved freely
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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THOMAS32
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Olk did everthing took o2sensor off car starts up but when pushing throttle body car sounds to be wanting to die or cut off
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Clean out the PCV and EGR valves-The IACV you probably have to change it-
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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why did you take off the o2 sensor??
you may have a bad cat converter if it runs because you just gave the exhaust somewhere to go.

Roy
Feb 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM (Merged)