battery light is coming on?

At idle what does the battery voltage read? these guides should help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

It was up over 13.5 when we checked it after putting the alternator in didn't check it today though

Check it when the battery light is on let me know when you have the readings.

Three dash lights came on simultaneously: Battery Light, Door Ajar Light (all 4 and trunk), Brake Light. I have replaced the alternator. Problem showe up again a day after the alternator was replaced. Any ideas what could be causing this problem? No other dash lights come on except for these

Hi wize_n,

Test the charging voltage at alternator and bettery.

If they are different, the alternator to battery cable cable might be faulty. How sure are you the new alternator is good?

Hi all,

I am in dire need of your help I bought a the car listed above with a v6 vetch. I went to get a oil change and I was told I had a leak in two places one by the transmission and one by the oil pan. I took it to a shop where they fixed the leaks by replacing the transmission gasket. Everything was running fine until I made a trip back to Sacramento and the oil light kept coming on. But the oil levels are fine both in the engine oil and the transmission oil. When I drove my car back from home today, I pressed on the gas and the car hesitated before it moved and the check engine light came on for a second and my car barely starts now with a funny smell to it. My battery light keeps coming on as well, I had my alternator and battery tested and the test came out fine. Would anyone please give me some insight on what may need to get fixed? I also found out I have a short in my car as well, my motor to my seat had burned out.

There's too may things that require a visual inspection, but I can offer some suggestions for the "Battery" light. When it turns off periodically, there is not a permanent failure, . . . yet, and it can go like that for weeks or months, but what is important is any testing of the charging system must be done while the problem is occurring, meaning while the warning light is on. When the light goes off, there is no defect at that time, so no problem will be found.

The most common cause of intermittent charging system operation is worn brushes inside the generator, especially at the mileage you listed. There can be intermittent wiring connections too, but those are much less common.

As for the "Oil" light, that is referring to low engine oil pressure, not level. Your mechanic can use a mechanical gauge to check the actual pressure. If that is good, the oil pressure sending unit, (sensor) is the typical suspect.

Thank you for your response. My car will not turn over now. Before my car stalled all the accessories stopped working ie lights, the speedometer, rpms..erc The battery is dead. I had my battery and alternator tested before this happened. I was told my alternator was ok. My battery test good. I am wondering if it is the wiring connection... In my first post I had mentioned the seat motor not turning on, when I tried to put in a new fuse, the kept burning out. I had a new starter put in prior to fixing the oil leaks. If I do have a electric problem where can I take it to get it fix?

I can only offer two suggestions for the electrical problem. You said the battery is dead. That is proof the charging system stopped recharging the battery, and that tells me it is almost a certainty the system was tested while it was working. As I mentioned in my first reply, you have to catch it while the problem is occurring. During those times it is working, there's nothing wrong, so everything is going to test okay.

Use an inexpensive digital voltmeter to measure the battery voltage. If the battery is good and fully-charged, it will be 12.6 volts. If you find it's closer to 12.2 volts, it is good but discharged. Charge it with a portable charger for an hour, at a slow rate, then try to start the engine. If the engine starts, measure the battery voltage again with the engine running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts.

If everything is dead and the battery is fully-charged, follow the smaller positive battery wire to the under-hood fuse box. Be sure that connection is clean and tight. Follow the smaller negative battery wire to the body sheet metal and be sure that connection is not rusty.

Thank you again for this information and Wisconsin, whew quite a ways! Haha. Ok so I found out that I have a bad battery. I had Autozone charge and test my battery. I will try these methods out and post a update. I appericate your time.

You guys please answer my question! My belts popped off for no reason. I let the guys @ an auto part store do an electrical test for my battery, alternator and starter (you know). All he did was connected his machine to my battery, had me cut on my A/C and raised the engine a little. He never touched my belts or came on that side of the car. when I drove off my car went crazy!!! My charge battery light came on so I pulled over and opened my hood, my belts was rattling like crazy. I turned around to go back and it was very hard to turn my stirring wheel. then it cut off. I opened my hood and my belts had come off. WHY? The AAA man came and tried to help me. He said he worked for Honda. He asked me if I had enemies because it looked like my car had been tampered with, but that's not the case. He said my bolt was coming out and he said something about a pulley(?). He actually pulled out tools and put my belts back on (I love you guys for that) but it didn't work. After I drove off it did it again. Please tell me what's wrong so I'll know what to say. I'm sick and you guys advice would make me feel better. Please forgive me for no donation, I'm broke!! I appreciate you guys advice like I know you personally. And speaking for the ladies, you guys save us at least 1 or $200 just because we know what we're talking about when we come in. I'm on the bus and it's hot out here. PLEASE, PLEASE HELP ME!.

There's really no big mystery here. The belts became loose over lack of maintenence and evenutally came off. You will have to purchase new belts and tension them properly.

Don't panic if you don't hear from me for two days. I have to drive ten miles to town to sit in parking lots and use their wireless internet. It's snowing a pile tonight and I might not get out tomorrow.

Would you mind keeping the doors to your house open so it gets warmer outside?!

I told you guys advice makes me feel much better!!!!!!

Its was the alternator bad I replaced it again and everything worked.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

Car has been daily commute no issues until battery light came on. Had alternator and battery tested. Alternator tested as overcharging the battery 16.6. Replaced alternator and battery. Battery light is still on. Starter has also been replaced within the last month. What could be causing the issue? At times the light flickers off and on. Any ideas?

The battery light coming on only indicates the operating voltage is low. If the alternator and battery have been replaced, it is possible that the ECM is the issue. Your vehicle has the voltage regulator inside the alternator but the ECM is what controls the regulator. It is less likely that they ECM is the issue on these types of vehicles but if not tested properly on the vehicle with what is called a VAT 40 tester then we don't know that.

I attached the tests for you to review but again, we need to find a shop with this tester so we know for sure which is the issue.

1996 Honda Accord 6 cyl Automatic 95000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
Is there any connection between

1) the battery light coming on;
2) the a/c blowing warm air;
3) and the a/c clutch coil needing to be replaced.

Hi there,

They can be related because AC and alternator utilises the same belt and pulley. A broken or badly slipping belt will cause the problem.

Without any recharging of the battery, the voltage might drop too low for the AC coil to operate.

Check for a faulty pulley if the belt is not broken. The pulley has a rubber damper ring which might have come detached so the pulley is freewheeling on the inner power steering pulley.

[quote:5fbc07aac1="KHLow2008"]Hi there,

They can be related because AC and alternator utilises the same belt and pulley. A broken or badly slipping belt will cause the problem.

Without any recharging of the battery, the voltage might drop too low for the AC coil to operate.

Check for a faulty pulley if the belt is not broken. The pulley has a rubber damper ring which might have come detached so the pulley is freewheeling on the inner power steering pulley.[/quote:5fbc07aac1]

Hi KHL: Thank you for your response!

My alternator belt had been changed at my 90,000 mile maintenance.

Actually, my battery light only went on when I was stopped or slowing down to approximately 20 mph. Then turned off when I accelerated.

Unfortunately, what happened is they said my alternator needed to be replaced which-- SURPRISE --
did not fix the a/c problem.

Is the rubber damper ring also called a "shim"?

Hi,

No, it is not a shim. The damper and the pulley should be in 1 complete piece.

Too bad after replacing the alternator and the AC still don't work. Btw is the alternator working well now?

Guess you need to fork out more $$$ for the AC coil or compressor whichever is at fault.

[quote:6826bf1dc6="KHLow2008"]Hi,

No, it is not a shim. The damper and the pulley should be in 1 complete piece.

Too bad after replacing the alternator and the AC still don't work. Btw is the alternator working well now?

Guess you need to fork out more $$$ for the AC coil or compressor whichever is at fault.[/quote:6826bf1dc6]

Hello, again.

So far I GUESS the alternator is working since the battery light is off. However, now I am wondering if it needed to be replaced.

The SAD story is that after they replaced the alternator, they told me I had to take the car to an a/c specialist.

SHEEP that I am, I went. Baaaaaaaa!

They replaced the a/c clutch coil.

Wait . . . it gets better. They call to say my car is fixed.

I picked up the car and started to drive it home. But the a/c was still blowing warm air! I turned around went back to service repair shop and they said that the mechanic put in a "shim" between the coil and the (?) that was too thick and he needed to replace it with a thinner one.

ONE hour or so later, I get my car back and the a/c works fine.

Can you PLEASE (I'm begging here . . . ) give me an idea as to what this "magic" shim was that miraculously made the a/c blow cold air?

Thanks for your help. My sanity is at stake.

I have a 92 Honda Accord the battery light comes on when you turn the a/c on.Also the belt slips and burn when its on.The compresser have been change and the alt. but still the same problem. Whats wrong?

Hi,

From what you described, probably the magnetic clutch contact was worn so it was refaced a shim was needed to keep the specified clearance.

By adding too thick a shim, the clutch was too far away to be attracted by the coil so they readjusted by replacing with a thinner shim.

It sounds like the compressor is causing the belt to slip. You need to have it diagnosed correctly to determine if it's a problem with the belt or the A/C system. The compressor isn't necessarily the only part of the A/C that could cause that.

[quote:877c45a6cc="KHLow2008"]Hi,

From what you described, probably the magnetic clutch contact was worn so it was refaced a shim was needed to keep the specified clearance.

By adding too thick a shim, the clutch was too far away to be attracted by the coil so they readjusted by replacing with a thinner shim.[/quote:877c45a6cc]

Hello, KHL: Thank you for your GREAT and SPEEDY responses.

I must COMMEND you on your ability to clearly articulate your answers in such a way that even I, a blithering/blathering/babbling NOVICE regarding car mechanics, can understand.

So, it isn't the "chicken or the egg" problem?

What likely came first? Did the coil need to be replaced?

Or was it the magnetic clutch contact that was worn and had it been fixed first the coil would not have needed to be replaced?

Was it just coincidental that the alternator went "bad?"

What other part of the a/c could cause this?

Hi again

Glad that I have been of help.

Chicken or egg is true.

The clutch locks when the compressor is required to work and unlocks when the desired cooling temp is attained or during hard acceleration.

When the clutch engages, it tends to slip before it fully engages and over a long period of time, the wear will create a bigger clearance gap between the plates. This will result in in partial engagement of the clutch and heats builds up when slippage occurs. This will fry the coil.

Fixing the clutch might have protected the coil but then again it could have been the other way round. The strength of the coil diminishes due to old age, poor wire connector contact or oil getting between the coil slowly shorting it. This will cause improper clutch contact.

The alternator failure should be just coincidence because even if the coil is shorted, the fuse will blow protecting the alternator, unless you have installed very high amp fuse which will cause the alternator to give way before the fuse blows.

Just remembered, maybe the alternator was not producing enough current so the coil got affected.

Most of them. It needs to be diagnosed professionally.

[quote:f12d1fcea7="KHLow2008"]Hi again

Glad that I have been of help.

Chicken or egg is true.

The clutch locks when the compressor is required to work and unlocks when the desired cooling temp is attained or during hard acceleration.

When the clutch engages, it tends to slip before it fully engages and over a long period of time, the wear will create a bigger clearance gap between the plates. This will result in in partial engagement of the clutch and heats builds up when slippage occurs. This will fry the coil.

Fixing the clutch might have protected the coil but then again it could have been the other way round. The strength of the coil diminishes due to old age, poor wire connector contact or oil getting between the coil slowly shorting it. This will cause improper clutch contact.

The alternator failure should be just coincidence because even if the coil is shorted, the fuse will blow protecting the alternator, unless you have installed very high amp fuse which will cause the alternator to give way before the fuse blows.

Just remembered, maybe the alternator was not producing enough current so the coil got affected.[/quote:f12d1fcea7]

Hello, KH:

Again, thank you for your helpful responses.

Now that I think about it, the a/c was not blowing cool air several days BEFORE the battery light went on.

If the alternator and the a/c probems are related, is it, more likely than not, that the battery light would have come on at the same time as the a/c problem?

The battery was not replaced -- only the alternator.

Electrical problem
1992 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic 317000 miles

I have noticed from time to time that for some reason my battery light, lights up or flashes from time to and even all lmy lights dim. This does not happen all the time. Battery & alternator was replaced about 6 months back. Had auto zone test both but state battery & alternator are running good. Could this light be linked to anything else and or is this just strickly the dummy light just for battery & alternator going bad?

Even if related, the damage to the alternator might only slowly build up until it gives way thus the delay.

If the battery is ok, there is no need for it to be replaced.

The new alternator will charge it back after some running of the engine.

With the light coming on and others dimming, this is not a dummy reporting. I suspect one of two things. First let me ask if it occurs often and if not does it appear to be happening more often? Any predictablility on the occurances? Such as colder weather, etc.

The first thing I would look at are the connections.

Then, even though the alternator tests good at Autozone, you might still suspect the alternator as the culprit. Was the alternator used, rebuilt or new?
I have had better luck with used alternators and new than I have with rebuilt ones.

[quote:b8df45aba6="KHLow2008"]Even if related, the damage to the alternator might only slowly build up until it gives way thus the delay.

If the battery is ok, there is no need for it to be replaced.

The new alternator will charge it back after some running of the engine.[/quote:b8df45aba6]

Hello, KHL:

Thanks for your time and help.

You've been great.

I notice more during Early monring hours when i am off to work (4am) (colder). Sometimes when jsut approaching 3500-4000rpm, the battery light will barely come on and other times flashes. From time to time when this heppens, all my lights will dim and remains for about 30 miles or so. the volt meter on my radio does indicate a voltage drop from 13.8 to about 11.4 or so. I also notice at times on my way back home (afternoon) radio read out does show drops and up and down readings. But all auto zone states it that the radio readings are not accurate and must me a short on the car, but i think he's just clueless. I told him if there were a short somewhere, i would be blowing fueses, which of course not happening. Should i take elsewhere to have tested?

You are welcomed.

Glad that we have been of assistance.

Happy motoring.

my battery light keeps coming on and off mostly when i slow down or am going at a slow rate of speed. ive turned on my radio and lights to see if it stays on but it seems to go off most of the time when i do that. ive replaced the alt. and battery and have even put new connectors on it. and all my fuses are ok. could it possably be a short?

Check the alternator belt tension-if okay get the battery and the alternator load tested. Too look for a short in the electrical system do below

thanks ill give it a try and let ya know the out come if your right ill keep the donation thing in mind and will for sure use your site again in the future and for sure will donate.