Battery drain?

Good evening,

As far as the noise, did you replace the axle? That sounds like the issue. It would also explain the lights on the dash.

.https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-cv-axle-joint

As far as the drain, you need to check it to see what the drain or where it is coming from. I attached a guide for you to follow.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Roy

When i put my car alarm on and do not drive it for a day or two when i do go to start it, there is nothing the battery is drained, i have had it jump and a few minute later it will start and restart, could the battery be bad. i am leaving my alarm off tonight to see if it starts, if it does not then it must be a bad battery i hope. my brother in law never had any problem, but the battery maybe over four years old.

Take the battery to your local auto parts store and have the battery tested. They test them for free. If it comes back as being okay, then you have an electrical short somewhere which will need some diagnostic work. Good luck.

Start with having the battery tested if the battery tests good then you have a excessive drain on the battery that will have to be traced down. Please post the results of the battery test. also, I have seen batteries test good and still drain over night without any excessive draw on the system.

I have a 2008 chevy impala and battery keep draining I took it to thrr places and they said same thing battery good so is the starter and alternator but the battery drains after 30 minutes, start right up with jump, heat blow cold air while idling

You need to check for an electrical draw. Go to our homepage under the DIY section for directions. If there is a draw, remove one fuse at a time to identify where the draw is coming from. Please remember, a weak battery can lose charge after a short period of time.

the battery on my 2008 impala keeps dying. If I jump start the car it will work for a day or two but then it happens again. Now it is totally shot and it makes a clicking sound when I try to start it. Any suggestions on what this might be?

Have the alternator checked and also a battery drain test

I agree, if the battery gets too low in charge you will loose memory for radio clock etc, if the battery is charged and discharged to many times there is a good chance that it will fail completely.

I have replaced battery - and the new battery goes dead after overnight?

Hey Joe,

You have something that is staying on like a front seat or side view mirror switch or cigarette lighter stuck down. We have a great article that will help you look at the popular problems and get it fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Please let us know what you find

Best, Ken

My battery light comes on and then car shuts off due to lack of power while driving. I have changed alternator three times had it tested both on and in system while running. Each time and it shows a bad voltage regulator while on car but when bench tested shows good. I have determined my problem may be a fusible link issue, but I am not sure where to look for this fusible link. Also, I have replaced the battery twice and had tested each time. It showed good, but they gave me a new one anyways.

There is a fusible link on the starter solenoid.
When the engine is running, the generator turn-on signal is sent to the generator from the PCM, turning on the regulator.
If while the engine is running at 2,000 rpm's, the charging voltage at the battery positive post is only twelve volts but at the back of the alternator B+ terminal it is 14 volts, then yes, I would say that fusible link may be bad.
If not, make sure that wire from the PCM is hot with engine running, the smaller gauge red wire to b of alternator and also check that D-orange wire is hot all the time with twelve volts.

My 04 Impala will run its battery down for no apparent reason after sitting just over night. This is an intermittent problem. It has a new battery and both the battery and charging system have been checked and found to be fine each time I have had it checked. My local shop can not duplicate the problem. It may happen twice a week or it can go for a couple months without occuring again.Once it is jump started it runs fine and you can shut it off after only driving it a short distance and restart it without problems till it happens again like I say it may be two days or two months.

Hello,

This sounds like you have a CD stuck in the player? Please check out this guide to see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down this guide and report back

Yep I heard the CD player running it turn out my kids put pennies in there lol thanks for the tip.

When I entered the car, I could hear random clicking noise which were continuous and only stopped when I inserted the car key in the ignition but the car did not start and I am unable to put the car in neutral because of the battery issue.I also tried opening a window but nothing is working. This is not the first time my battery has drained and it seems like something is draining my battery after I lock my car as I have just replaced the battery a month back. Currently there is obstruction in way of hood in my parking lot and I need to move the car to open the hood. Without battery I am unable to put the vehicle in neutral so that I can push the vehicle a bit to clear this obstruction. Will appreciate some inputs about manually changing gear into neutral because I am not able to find anything in the car manual.

Hi and welcome.

Here is a guide to trouble shoot this issue. I also would start with pulling one fuse at a time until you hear the noise stop. That will narrow your search to one circuit.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Let me know what you find.

Rich.

Electrical problem
2003 Chevy Impala 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Something is draining the battery. I have changed the alternator the starter and battery. I can drive the car all day but the next morning it is dead.

Hey Jhoney,

There are a handful of items that can drain the battery such as a sticking seat switch, here is a complete guide on almost everything that can cause that.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

I have a 2002 LS model 3.8L V6 with 82,000 miles. Everything is stock (radio, etc.). I have a parasitic draw on the battery that leaves the battery dead overnight.

I have pulled the negative terminal off the battery and put in an amp meter. After about ten minutes the draw hits a cycle of 1.86 amps for about 20 seconds then down to 0.04 amps for about 6 seconds, back to 1.86 amps, etc.

I notice a clicking sound under the dash and a faint hissing sound on the radio during the cycle. If I pull the CLSTR/BCM fuse there is no draw at all. If I pull only the radio fuse, I get the same cycle, but with 0.48 amps for 20 seconds down to 0.04 for 6 seconds. I have replaced the RAP relay and no change.

If I pull the fuse for the BCM no change. I have read some posts that the BCM can get fried if you jump start the car (which I had to do about 4 months prior to this problem). How do you know if the BCM is bad? Any other suggestions are more than welcome!

i am having problems too. door lock fuse blows and the security light goes on, battery dies or it locks down case the bcm tells the car it is being stollen. Can some one help? put 230 it to it al ready. Should i go to the dealer> ooch

temullen -- Yeah I got it fixed -- it turned out to be the BCM. I ordered a replacement BCM from Advanced Auto for $100 and then called around to the dealers until I found one that would only do the reprogramming and they charged me $95. We took it on a 500 mile road trip over the weekend and so far haven't had any problems. The dealers wanted between $500-600 to replace and reprogram the BCM which was a complete rip-off, I was just really persistent on this being a DIY fix for me..........good luck!

I’ve recently purchased a new battery but something is still draining my battery.

Good morning,

You will need a voltmeter with an amp meter to put in line with the negative cable to measure current draw. I posted below the procedure for testing and the values of allowable draws for the car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Roy

Replaced the alternator, starter and battery and the car keeps drawing 1.4 amps consistently even while the car is off. I had to buy a new battery charger just so I can charge it and go to work.

Check this guide out: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

In particular, look at step 3. Personally, I use a digital multi-meter instead of a test light though. Hook it up and start pulling fuses until you see a significant drop in draw. You have just identified the circuit to look at. If there is any aftermarket electronics (radio, TV, etc), start there. Do that and let us know what you find. We will go from there.

My impala acts like it has a dead battery if i do not start it every eight hours or so. If i let the car sit all day or so, when i open the door i can hear a clicking from under the dash, thats the first sign i can see when it dont turn over.
I've had the starter, alternater and battery tested several times, and each time they say they're good
What is the best way to find where the current draw is comming from when the car is off?

Hi there,

Place an Amp meter between battery Pos(+) and the Pos cable, do not try and start the car...... with the key out and doors closed check the current draw, if above about .2 amps pull fuses and see which circuit is drawing current, also unplug the alternator as you may have a faulty diode in the regulator back feeding current, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)

I've tried the amp meter, and mine claimed i had zero amps between the positive cable and the battery. So i picked up a manual at the library,and it said i should pull fuses and look for 12 volts across the terminals when the key is off. I understand that i should find some fuses hot at all times, so i eliminated every thing that has a memory and everything that works without the keys in the ignition, which eliminates my list (ie, cigarete lighter, hazzard lights, radio,etc...). The only systems that i had power to and could not identify were in the fuse box under the hood, i could not read the lable on the cover, do you know where i can find a picture of them?
Also, the system that still questions me is the power locks. I only measured 6 volts across that fuse, shouldent that be 12 volts?

my wife drove the car to a store, she was inside for 30 min or so - when she came out the battery was completely dead. When I arrived (about an hour or two later) I hooked the jumper cables and they started to smoke I unhooked them looked at a couple of fuses hooked them back - after about fifteen minutes of jumping the car started - but the battery was dead when I got home. What am I looking for?

How old is the battery?

Check the water in the battery and make sure it's full unless this is a sealed battery in which case be sure the green light (eye) is on.

IF all good and your connections are clean and tight, trickle charge it overnight. Then check the voltage, should be 12.6v. Then check the draw on the battery and be sure it's 30 milliamps or less.

What we are trying to determine is that if the battery can take and hold a charge, deciing if there is a parasitic draw that is excessive or if it is not being charged.

The battery was dead - wouldn't take a charge. I think it was the original or at least a dealer replacement. I put a new battery in and had a parasitic draw of .046.
I pull each fuse on the driver's side individually until I pulled the one next to the gray box ( the bottom left hand side if you are looking straight on.) According to the eautorepair guide that you advertise it is marked CLSTR/BCM. When I pulled that one the draw dropped to .001.

That circuit is going to have a high draw, if your left with such a little draw after pulling that one, it tells me there is no significant draw on another circuit. The bcm was probably not in it's sleep mode which could explain the moderately higher draw. 46 Ma really doesn't fit the quick loss of charge.

I would go the the alternater output next.

I hooked the new battery up and drove it to the nearest auto parts store. The alt is putting out 32 -35 amps rather than the 102 amps expected. The guy testing it seemed to think that the abnormal drawdown might even be coming from this. And another wrinkle in this my radio now doesn't work.

Okay..makes sense alternater is way out of spec. Get a good one...I like napa premium, USA As Delco or Paladdium brands myself.

Does the RAdio say "lock".

Need a code from the dealer to unlock it. It's a protection thing so if the radio is stolen it is no usable.

actually the radio doesn't do anything - no display at all. I didn't know how the lock thing worked. This is like there is no power.
I plan to go to Napa today for the alernator.

After the alternater is in and the charging system is working, we can go after the radio. IF there is still no display afterwards, check the fuse to start with.

took longer to get to this than I expected, but the new alt is in. I'm still getting a draw - now it is down to 0.40, so at least I'm making some headway - but that's still too high right?

IT's on the high side, but it may not be out of the park either. IS the battery going dead anymore?

The bcm fuse took all but 1 milliamp. So either ther is a problem on the circuit or, it is acceptable. If the battery isn't going dead and it sets for a few days, I wouldn't worry about it. IF it isn't holding a charge then, yeah, a second problem needs to be nailed down. Time will tell.