Check Engine and TCS light

There was a TSB on the problem and I have sent it to you with all the procedures. You are not going to like this.

so how is it now? HAVE CODES READ.

so i went to auto zone and had the diagnostic test performed. The test revealed i need my fuel line flushed and my e something valve and air thing cleaned. all minor but still important. At the end I'm just soooooo happy its not my transmission :) YAY ACURA your not dieing. lol

EGR valve?

yes

Hi ,
I have 2001 Acura 3.2TL. for last 2 months i was in india and had my friend drive it once in a while. when i came back , i had low battrey and had to jump start my car...

I started my car and drove it for lke 10 miles and got Check light and TCS light on.
immediately i got this transmission issue. i was pushing the accelerator , but my car was not moving above 40 mph
initially it ran good upto 60mph.. but now when ever i drive my car in D5 (automatic) the car wont move more than 20mph...
I am afriad if my Transmission is gone bad.
please advise what might be the issue and how do i solve this...

Get a scan done to retrieve for trouble codes and let me know the EXACT code so I can understand what is wrong.

so running better now?

Your tranny is shot

Hi FUNGUY4,

How did you come to the conclusion with such limited information?

Because I have a TL and had those same symptoms.And took it in and was diagnosed with a bad transmission all the transmissions in the 2000-2003 TL are weak.If acura rebuilt your tranny prior to march of 2003 it will go out again.

the 02 sensor was recently replaced. the check engine light is still flashing and it is still running rough. do you have an answer for this?

what prompted you to replace 02? flashing llight means emmisions problem but usually a misfire. check engine light doesn't clear itself. disconnect battery overnight to clear the codes from the ecm.

Not necessarily all symptoms indicates the same fault. The vehicle was parked and seldom driven. Rodents loves such vehicles and some wires might be missing as they are in the stomach of rodents.

A diagnostic is required to confirm the problem and eliminate changing a good transmission and come up with the same problem after installing a replacement.

Hi Guys Thanks for ur response.
My car completely stopped moving and I had to take it to a tranny expert. he said my tranny is gone need a replacement.
rebuit was costing me 3500, so i thought of going for a used one. i got one used from online and had my mechanic put it in.
it drove ok for 2 days. then i got the same problem.
i am getting P0730 error code. i already spent 2000 $ on it. Car s driving ok, but somtimes all of a sudden the gear doesnt shift and it wont move more than 20mph.
pls advise.

What was the trouble code with the original transmission? If it is the same code, you could have a wiring or control problem, or the replacement transmission is bad.

When you bought the transmission online, what was the warranty given for the trnsmission? Get back to them about the problem, a possibility they have to get you another unit.

Here are the diagnostic procedures.

DTC P0730: PROBLEM IN SHIFT CONTROL SYSTEM

NOTE:
• Keep these replacement solenoid valves on hand:

? Shift solenoid valves A, B, and C
? A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B

1. Check whether the OBD II scan tool indicates another code.

Does the OBD II scan tool indicate another code?

YES - Perform the troubleshooting flowchart for the indicated code(s). Recheck for code P0730 after troubleshooting.

NO - Go to step 2.

NOTE: Do not continue with this troubleshooting until the causes of any other DTCs have been corrected.

2. Measure the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutch pressure.

Is each clutch pressure within the service limit?

YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Repair the hydraulic system as necessary.

3. Replace the shift solenoid valve B.

4. Replace the shift solenoid valves A and C.

5. Replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B.

6. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and reset the PCM memory by removing the BACK UP fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box for more than 10 seconds.

7. Calibrate the engine idle control system in the PCM, see PCM Idle Learn Procedure , and drive the vehicle at a speed over 12 mph (20 km/h) in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear in the [D 5 ] position for more than 30 seconds.

8. Recheck for code P0730.

Does the OBD II scan tool indicate code P0730?

YES - Replace the transmission.
NO - The system is OK at this time.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

Thanks. but the problem is , i have to pay for labour again. which i am in dilemma...
thinking of selling it as it is. :(

AutoZone gave a report which defined the P0158 code. It says that the Bank 2, Sensor 2 O2 electrical circuit signal had high voltage for a predetermined period of time. The error codes read are P0158, P0157 and P0159.
Firstly, I want to know whether it is a major issue or minor? What problems would arise if it is not fixed?
And how much would it cost to get it fixed?
My car has 126000 miles. My car has an automatic transmission.

This is something that cannot be helped. When you buy a replacement part, you have to take the risk of the part failing, be it new, used or rebuilt.

The first concern is this code refers to something that could adversely affect emissions. Those are the codes that turn on the Check Engine light. It could have a relatively minor cause, but if it's ignored, it could turn into an expensive repair, especially if the catalytic converter overheats. Also, a totally different problem could develop that could also turn expensive if ignored. You will never know that second problem occurred because the Check Engine light is already on.

The second concern is to detect a problem, there is always a long list of conditions that must be met before a fault code will be set. One of those conditions is certain other codes can't already be set. The Engine Computer compares many sensor readings and operating conditions to each other to figure out when there is a problem. When one fault code is already set, the computer knows it can't rely on that circuit to provide accurate readings, so any tests that need that data to be compared to, will be suspended. A defect can develop and never be detected. Once you have the first problem fixed, the suspended tests will resume, and THAT is when the next problem(s) will be detected. The Check Engine light may turn right back on. Of course you assume the mechanic didn't diagnose or repair the problem correctly, but in fact there was a second problem he had no way of knowing existed.

I would never buy a used Tranny in these vehicles from 00-03. They were under recall and honda didn't fix the issue until march of 2003. I know people prior to 03 that have been through 2-3 tranny rebuilds in 100k miles. Mine has been through only one and it was fixed after 2003. I always change my tranny fluid every 15k because of the fact that it has an internal filter that can't be replaced without tearing the tranny apart. They are great cars and have a hell of an engine in them. I would say if the car had alot less miles it would be worth it for ya to fix.I don't know what kind of shape it is in though.

P0730 is the code of death for these transmissions. for p0730 if it comes back on your most likely goin to need a transmission. acura recommends to not waste money on unnecessary solenoid replacement if the vehicle has any of the following:
• The odometer has more than 20,000 miles.
• The vehicle has a reman A/T.
• The ATF is contaminated with friction material
or metal.
• The axle seals are leaking or the differential
carrier bearings are loose.
• The A/T makes grinding or whining noises.

What color is your TL?

mine is a royal blue...engine is in good shape.
I spoke to the tranny guy abt this code, he said he will send me a another used one. but its again taking risk ... and my mechanic says 800$ to put it in...thinking.....

Who are you getting these tranny's through?