wont move in drive or reverse why?

Can I ask if the gear range selector is lighting up? You could have a bad gear range sensor here is how you can replace it. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

It's the tranny just did one on mine. GM knows there is an issue with these trannys from 2004-2009 and they won't do a recall. Mine cost me 1300 just for the rebuilt tranny.

I had this problem it was the manual pressure valve check out the diagrams above to see. Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Manual Valve Position Switch

driving and car stops and i turn back on but will not move.

If when reving the engine up in drive the vehicle does begin to creep forward and the fluid level is fine, then by all means drain the fluid, drop the pan and change the filter, clean the pan, put it all back together and fill with new fluid and try that.
If though while revving the engine it does not move at all, the fluid is full and not burnt, check to see that the transmission shift lever is moving when shifting the shifter and if not, check if the shift cable maybe broke or if the shifter just needs adjusted so it properly selects the gears fully at the shift lever.

I was driving my car and it was running just fine didnt hear nothing at normal or felt nothing at normal i stop at my brothers house left the car on and once i was leaving i will accelerate and the front wheels would run real fast when making a turn and i had to push the peddle real hard for the car to go so i right away parked the car and i check my tranmision oil it was fine but i still went to the gas station and got some oil and i put it in the car and i started the car again and it started to go again good but then after after a few blocks it did it again it wouldnt go so i parked it and waited a little and tried to drive again and this time the car wouldnt go at all forward or backwards i check the engine oil and transmission oil and everything is normal can you pls help me

Did the check engine light come on? Are you sure the trans fluid isn't over full? this guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down this guide and report back.

No the engine light didnt go on is not on and the transmission oil is not over filled

Since you lost both forward and reverse and there is no light on, either the linkage has come apart, you lost line pressure, the range sensor is bad, or the Trans Control Module (TCM) is bad.

I first noticed the car was not shifting into overdrive. O'Riley's gave me multiple codes. P0700, P0973, P0751. so I ordered a Transmission Shift and EPC and TCC PWM Downshift Solenoid Set with Manifold Pressure Switch. The following day returning home from a 3 mile drive, I stopped at a stop sign. I let off the brake and it was like the car was in neutral. I tried reverse but nothing so I towed it home and replaced the transmission fluid and filter with a new o-ring. Then replaced all the solenoids and the pressure switch. The car still wont move forward or reverse. I checked every fuse. All were good so I changed the TCM in the air box. Still nothing. No forward or reverse. Any suggestions what to try next?

Car is a Police Impala.

Good afternoon.

The reverse is the key. There are no electronic controls for the reverse application. It is controlled mechanically.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

You have either a bad torque converter or front pump in the transmission.

It will have to be removed and inspected for the failure.

Roy

Is there a way to check the pump or torque converter without removing the transmission?

The pump, yes. You would need pressure gauges and need to access the plug for testing the pump pressure. If you have no pressure, then it could be either one as the torque converter turns the front pump.

Procedure below.

Roy

Line Pressure Check

Special Tools
* J-21867 - Pressure Gage
* J-21867-65 - Pressure Test Adapter (5.3 Only)

For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools (See: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Electrical / Mechanical Repair).

Note:
* Before performing a line pressure check, verify that the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve is receiving the correct electrical signal from the PCM.
* Some conditions may be intermittent, therefore this test should be performed at least 3 times.

1. Install a scan tool.

Warning

Keep the brakes applied at all times in order to prevent unexpected vehicle motion. Personal injury may result if the vehicle moves unexpectedly.

2. Start the engine and set the parking brake.
3. Check for a stored Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).
4. Repair the vehicle, if necessary.
5. Check the fluid level. Refer to the Transmission Fluid Check (See: Fluid - A/T > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure).
6. Check the manual linkage for proper adjustment.

Description
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

7. Turn the engine Off.
8. Loosen Exhaust cross-over pipe to allow attachment of J-21867-65 - Pressure Test Adapter (5.3 Only).
9. Remove the oil pressure test hole plug and install the J-21867 - Pressure Gage and the J-21867-65 - Adapter if used.
10. Put the gear selector in PARK range and set the parking brake.
11. Start the engine and allow the engine to warm up at idle.

Caution: The total test running time should not be longer than 2 minutes. Running the test longer than 2 minutes may damage the transaxle.

12. Access the PC solenoid valve control test on the scan tool.
13. Increase the PC solenoid actual current from 0 to 1 amps in 0.1 amp increments. Allow the pressure to stabilize for five seconds after each pressure change. Read the corresponding line pressure on the J-21867 - gage.
14. Refer to the Line Pressure (See: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature > Line Pressure) specification table. Compare the data to the table.
15. If pressure readings differ greatly from the table, refer to Incorrect Line Pressure (See: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Incorrect Line Pressure).
16. Shut the engine OFF. Remove the J-21867 - gage and J-21867-65 - adapter if used.
17. Apply sealant GM P/N 12345382 (Canadian P/N 1095348) to the oil pressure test hole plug.

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution (See: Vehicle > Vehicle Damage Warnings > Fastener Caution).

18. Install the oil pressure test hole plug and tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb in).
19. Re-tighten the exhaust cross-over pipe (5.3 only).

Hello I'm having a problem with my transmission. when I place it in drive or reverse the engine revs and does not supply any power. When in natural the car rolls and in park it engages the parking paw. There are no grinding sounds and feels and sounds normal when going from park to drive. I have had the transmission rebuilt about two years ago.

Good morning,

The first thing I would do is drop the pan and change the filter to see if it has debris that is preventing fluid to get to the front pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Beyond that, it is an internal failure that will require removal and inspection.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Roy

That's what the magnetic looks like a did run my finger across it looks like little metal shavings almost grease like. is this problem due to the input drum as I'm see a lot of people having problems with the 4t65e on the ls4 engine?

That is normal wear and tear.

could be but it will have to come out and be inspected. it could be the drum or the front pump or the torque converter.

Roy

Thank you for information. I'm betting on the drum but I'll have to call the place that rebuilt the transmission and see if it's under warranty (probably not) but I'll see what they can do first before pulling it. A lot is hinting to the drum itself as a lot of people with ls4 and the 4t65e experience this problem after a rebuild and from what I found online it is the weakest part of the transmission. but sadly like almost every car problem it happens right before it gets cold outside, live in Ohio.

As from what I read on this site matches my exact problem with a rebuild with around 25,000 miles on it.

Well, I was thinking about it if the impute drum fails would I have reverse? I do not know a lot about transmission other than how to take them out. Been a while since I was in school and all we did was take them apart and put them back together no fault finding. Thanks

Yes you would. That's why I think it's the front pump or the torque converter.

Roy

Okay, I got the CV axles out and the shift link along with the manpower connector, but what is the lift points of the 5.3 ls4 motor? Need to figure out where to put the engine support bar chains to. Also 0 psi from the transmission in park, neutral, and first.

I would use the rear of one of the heads for one spot and the front of the engine for the other. attach opposite so it holds it straight so it does not roll over.

Roy

That sounds fun to get to, lol. thanks I will give that a shot tomorrow. so use head bolt from both side of the engine? Should I get higher grade bolts that will thread into the head?

When I warm the car up after a hour it would drive fine then all of a sudden it wouldn’t go in drive or reverse. the RPMs go up when I push on the gas but won’t move .

Okay, so I'm just about to the point to pull the transmission weathers been crappy so it's taken me longer than it should but I got everything disconnect and off except the bolts that hold the transmission case to the engine by chance do you have a diagram or anything showing where all the bolts are that connect the transmission to the engine? I saw someone with a 3.5 take the transmission out and it looked like two bolts where hidden. I see what looks like four bolts by the differential are there any more other than around the flex plate?

This sounds like you are low on transmission fluid or the pressure control solenoid is out. here are instructions on how to check the fluid level and we should run the codes as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 4T65-E

Bottom Pan Removal .................... 7.0 liters (7.4 qts)

Complete Overhaul .................... 9.5 Liters (10.0 qts)

Dry .................... 12.7 Liters (13.4 qts)

Measurements are approximate

Can I ask if the gear selector light are working? Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Here you go.

Roy

I could be wrong, but it looked like there were four bolts around the differential that connected to the engine? Also thanks for the picture.

There are five bolts total holding it to the engine.

Roy

What do these bolts do? Do I have to remove them? Looks like a baracket coming from the transmission and bolts onto what appears to be the engine?

Yes, that is a support bracket. Remove the 2 bolts on the transmission and the 2 bolts on the block.

Roy

my car will reverse but wont drive forward what causes this problem

This sounds like you have a transmission gear position sensor that is out. Here is the location so you can change it out. # 811 on the diagrams below.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

Thanks for the post I wish I got here earlier the shop charged my $280.00 to do the job.

My friends transmission would go in reverse but not in drive. She told me that she just started driving it in second gear for probably fifty miles. Just went on her merry way. Next day it she started the car, tried to put in drive but still did not engage so
went back to second gear and got three blocks and engine shut off. it started but none of the drive gears worked so drove back home in reverse. I have noticed and warned her that she backs into her driveway and often sticks it in reverse before car comes to stop. In case that helps anyone. I did not know until after all these facts as she remembers.

She did say her brother put in a quart of trans fluid to see if it would go into any forward gears. no luck.

I checked the transmission oil with dipstick and it was still pinkish but darker, with no real burn smell that I could tell. I had read on line that a fluid supply line is known to crack and cause only reverse to work on this car. So I dropped the transmission oil pan and found what is on this picture at the bottom of oil pan. this has to be important? Can anybody help? Thanks

Thats a dowel that the trans sits on.

Roy

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Sorry to hear about the poor Impala,
That is a rather important part, namely it is the actuator tab from the direct band. That band is what locks the forward drive hub so it moves the car forward. That is part 68 in the first picture. The best repair is a rebuild of that trans or replacing it with another one. Nothing can be done with it in the vehicle though. It has to come apart. That part is now floating free in there and it could move and lock up at any time if the car is in motion, that would do a lot more internal damage.

As for the hitting reverse while in motion, that could easily cause this as that would cause the transmission a severe shock loading on that tab. The car moving forward will still have a lot of inertia and putting the car into reverse would put all of that weight onto that tab as it tries to release.

To me it looks like it is time for a rebuild. you have metal throughout the unit you would be gambling to try and fix it with a complete tear down. I can give the rebuild installation and diagrams if you plan to do it yourself. You can get a rebuild kit from rockauto.com.

I have a question about the pump shaft the original one had this blue hard plastic o ring the new one did not. I tried to remove the o ring and it looked to be damaged. Is it ok to install the shaft with out that plastic part or do I need a pump shaft with it. The new one was exactly identical except the blue plastic part.

Ken if you can give me a link to the rock auto kit I would appreciate it it's the 4t65e-hd but from what i could see on the teardown all the metal was contained in the pump looked like a clean break. Or if you can find a kit that's built better than factor I would appreciate that as I see alot of 06-09 impala ss have problems with the drum failing.

It looks like the only diffrence between the hd and non HD model is the differential. So what rebuild kit would you recommend I dont have paddle shift but can manually pick gears 1-3.

Should I just get the Master Kit (Overhaul Kit + Friction Clutches and Steel Clutch Plates) or is there a different kit that I should purchase? Never mind about the above post I guess that's the seal ring and its meant to have a cut in it. never looked that close at an input shaft.