a/c compressor replacement?

Here are guides and videos to help you do the job on your car.

Vacuum down and recharge video

https://youtu.be/4EqdrBVb0sY

This guide will help walk you through the repair with diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-air-conditioner-compressor

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I replaced three times AC compressor, but its always stuck (jam), last time i replaced compressor 1 week ago, but again stuck need replacement new.....mechanic also did not understand why compressor stucking always, please if you have any solution for it pls reply me soon.


Thanks

Mohammed Khan

That's because you don't understand A/C repairs and how they have to be done. When you have a compressor failure, all the torn up metal particles from the compressor spread throughout the system and if not resolved, they will ruin the new compressor with the extreme high pressures. Now you have had 3 compressors grenade into your system. You also have to balance the oil when this is done. At this point you will at the very least have to replace the condenser, dryer and expansion valve but you will also have to find out what made the first compressor fail. Contrary to popular belief, A/C repairs are not for the DIYer.

2003 Toyota Camry mileage: 89,000. The air conditioning was working okay. But, now when I turn it on, the air conditioning knob lights up for about three to four seconds and then starts flashing. Now the compressor will not work.

There is obviously a problem in your air conditioning system. Scanning the computer that controls that system will reveal a fault code that should pin-point your problem.

The A/C compressor on my '03 model Toyota Camry LE does not stay on long enough to cool the interior of the car except when I'm driving fast on the interstate. When I'm stationary it keeps going on and off in intervals of less than a couple of minutes. I stay in the tropics and I have the thermostat set to the minimum temperature.

The system has numerous safety features that could be kicking in because it has a problem. You need to get it checked using a professional set of gauges to determine the reason it is doing that.

Many thanks Wrenchtech. Any ideas as to what the possible problems might be because I do not have access to professionals where I am currently located.

You don't have any choice. Until you analyze the pressures, there is no clue what is happening or why. You can do serious damage to the system if you continue to use it that way too.

Thank you. Will do....

Recently the air conditioning system in my Camry was operationing poorly. I added 27 oz's of Refrigerant and it blows extremely cold 38 degrees. I noticed that the blowers where not functioning to capacity. I removed the manual vents form the dash and I noticed inside the tunnels a wire screen. With my air compressor I blew out all four tunnels and three of the four are now operating to capacity. However, the drivers side the air flow appears to be blocked and fucntioning poorly. Any suggestions? Thank you Mike Karavolas.

remember, what ever you blew through the screen is still in the system. The only thing you can do is remove the ductwork to that vent and check it for obstruction.

I used a paper clip to bypass my A/C clutch relay, which turned on the A/C clutch. A/C clutch will not engage with just the relay. I replaced the relay with a new one, same results. So now that I know the clutch works by using a paper clip, where do I go from here ?

Good afternoon,

I attached a wire diagram for you to view. The power for the control side comes from the same power as pin 30.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Do you have a test light or voltmeter to do some testing?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

The AC compressor appears to run reversed and does not cool.

Hi there,

The way the compressor is set up it cannot run in reverse. So if you have a cooling problem i would have the pressures checked and if the com is not engaging at all you may have a leak in the system and the low pressure switch has activated isolated the compressor circuit.

Mark (mhpautos)

Will the belt break and stop the car from running if you drive it when the compressor is out on the air conditioner?

HI if your compressor is makeing a noise and you have a serpintene belt. then yes it can lock up and break the belt. but if your aircondition compressor has a single belt that runs only the compressor then no prob.. billymac

With A/C running my car in drive stopped at a stop light, foot on the break I can feel my car jerk and watch the rpm's drop and surge back up again quickly. I was wondering what on the air conditioning unit would make the car drop the tach slightly and jump back up again This only happens when the car is under a load in drive or reverse with the A/C on. With A/C off or the car in park there is no problems. Something on the A/C is what I am thinking and is it replaceable by itself because the A/C work great very cold, so I really was hoping not to have to replace the whole compressor since it works so good?

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

On the end of the inlet manifold is the A/C idle up valve, this picks up the engine revs slightly whit the A/C on, i would say that this is not working, get your mechanic to check it out, it may only be a broken vacuum hose or a faulty valve, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

As I have stated I am pretty sure it's on the A/C, I really wanted to know if it is replaceable on the A/C compressor because the A/C works so well?

This valve is part of the A/C system, it is what controls the idle step up when the A/C is on, it is the load of the A/C working that pulls the idle down, this valve compensates and steps the idle up with the A/C on.

Mark (mhpautos)

Let me ask this way then, there is a clutch assembly on the A/C is this valve in that assembly to were I can replace it or do I need to replace the whole A/C compressor. Sound like a circuit or something exterior to the compressor that controls the the A/C load Idle up. Is the A/C pump in two different parts, I have to know is this part replaceable with out entering the Freon system of the A/C?
Thank you, Steve

I am writing this because the website clearly states that if you are not
satisfied with the answer you get then the site will refund your money. I have
had to ask three times and the third time I am not getting an answer in a timely
fashion. The answer is all but the one question I would like to know. If I do
not get a responds by the end of the day (which I think is more then fair) then
I will be forced to claim faults advertising with the Better Business Bureau.
Question: Can I replace more than one part on the A/C compressor of a 1997
Toyota Camry?

Thank you,
Steve

Compressor Pulley seemed wobbly when clutch was engaged. I removed the clutch and cleaned up the parts. The Pulley bearing seems o.k. and the driveshaft stable. There was a lot of buildup on the magnet which I removed and left smooth. I'm wanting to reassemble but am at odds as how to make sure that the outer plate was properly shimmed and if I should add a lock washer on the retaining bolt in case it had come loose.It would seem that the outer plate shifts in to engage the pulley/plate. How does it do that if it its bolted onto the drive shaft. Like wise the pulley appears fixed. I don't get it what am I missing? I'm an aircraft mechanic and dont deal with a/c parts. help!

When i went to reassemble I found that the boss that the inner part of the pulley bearing mounts on was worn & oblong. I mounted it with JB weld and its firm. Let's see how long it lasts. I think its worth a shot since the clutch and all else works fine . thanks anyway for your website. A1metalman

Hello Bob, Ken, and Team! I have made several contributions and I have spread the word of you're awesome web-site. I have a bit of a problem, and I can really use you're help now more than ever before. To begin with my car tends to idle (Shaking of steering wheel and engine) What do you think can be causing this, and what can I do to stop it? Second, I have taken my car to the mechanic several times in regards to my A.C. The first time he vacumed the A.C. and filled it with free-on and dye, and spotted no leaks. The second time I brought it back he said he saw a small leak near the compressor, so he replaced the compressor with a new one and he also replaced the freeze dryer, and it's still not working. Now he is saying that it needs a new condensor because it is worn out and he sees a small leak coming from it, he also stated that he has not checked the evaporator by the dash. What action can I take in regards to this situation? I know I'm asking a great deal of information, but I assure you that you will be well compensated for your in depth professional suggestions and advice! Sincerely, R. Molina

Sir

My honest opinion you should get rid of this fella by the time he finds the problem you'll end up with a new AC system. Go somewhere else.

It could be an idle up solenoid valve that's not working properly and the computer is missing a signal such as compressor engagement to raise the idle thru the IACV not compensating for the AC load which will cause the engine to idle erractically making it shake -this is my theory on this problem.

The world's best appreciates your contributions/confidence in us and spreading the word out.

Thank You Sir-need more help were here for you-Good luck

AC Compressor is making noise and shop wants to replace the compressor for $550. I don't need the AC and want to bypass it but Toyota said they couldn't do it. What size belt do I need to do this and what do I need to remove or add to get the belt to route correctly?

well , why dont you ask them how much they would charge just for labor. If its something you can deal with, then go buy a used compressor. Or you can possibly save hundreds of dollars by buying the compressor yourself from a parts place and just pay them to have it installed. I just don't want you to get ripped off. Now back to the belt situation is it two belts or one? if its one you just would buy the belt for your car without a/c remember the belt will be shorter and you can just put the belt on and skip the a/c. on the other hand if it's two belts well thats alittle more complicated. they sell moch a/c's that you would bolt in the place of your real a/c and you can put both belts back on like nothing ever was changed

I also emailed my Uncle who is a great mechanic and here was his response:

First off the Camry probably was not offered from the factory without A/C. Its a standard feature. That is way Napa doesn't list a belt for one without A/C. I've been down this road several times. It is very difficult to try to route around the A/C. I"v never been able to do it without a major expense. If the car was offered from the factory without A/C then it's different. You can purchase the different tensioners or idlers and go round it like they did. Your in a pickle. The cheapest thing I think you can do is have someone replace the bearing in the hub. I assume thats what is making the noise. You should not have to buy the entire compressor if just the bearing failed. Someone should be able to take it apart, find a bearing and replace it. At this point you don't have to put the clutch back on , just run the pump as an idler.

My car's A/C is fine all day, even in Phoenix summers, but after we get a rain and it gets humid the A/C light will go out and I can hear the clutch disengage. As soon as I depress the button for the A/C the clutch engages again, even with the blower motor off. I have experienced the more common problem with the A/C light where you drive through a puddle it starts blinking and this is a little different. It is not stuck though because when I press the button to activate the clutch it disengages. Not sure if anyone has an idea or has encountered something like this. The only information I could get was to replace the relay, which I did and got the same thing happen. Any ideas appreciated.

Good afternoon.

Do you have a set of gauges? I would like to see the high and low side readings to see what the system is doing when this happens. The pressures will help us with the solution.

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

I do. I probably should have mentioned I replaced the compressor with clutch April 2017 along with the expansion valve and drier. The pressure on the low side is about 40-45 and the high side is about 225-250. Runs normally in the heat but as soon as it gets muggy out the clutch acts up.

What is the outside temperature?

Roy

Right now it is a mild 98°F.

Okay, the pressures are too high on both ends.

The high should be two times ambient plus 15%. The low side should be 25-35.

You either have too much Freon in the system, moisture in the system or lack of air flow across the condenser.

Try spraying a water hose on the condenser and see if the pressures lower and you get good cold air.

When you touch the receiver/dryer, how does it feel with the AC on?

Roy

Well, if I run it with any less Freon it will not run cold. I am not trying to figure out if I have too much Freon in the system or that my condenser/evaporator is clogged and needs to be replaced. Unless too much Freon will cause the clutch to activate when I have the button off and deactivate when the button is on, I am at a loss.

The drier is hot and I do not have access to a hose at the moment but a fan will also lower pressures. They both remove heat from the system and will either way lower pressure. Can you tell me why you want to know if they lower?

Because as I stated, the pressures are too high. The pressures need to be correct for the system to work correctly when it is hot.

Roy