loss of power when driving

With the check engine light on I think you have a throttle pedal position sensor that needs to be changed out but to be sure lets run the codes to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back

Cheers

Yep you were right I took my car into the shop and that is what they replaced thanks for the tip I will come back when I need more help. Cost me $328.00 for the repair.

Van came in with lack of power, hooked up scanner and retrieved code POO16. Performed pinpoint test and all seemed o.k. Had the system relearned and light went out the problem still is there. There is a 16 degree difference between the cam and crank sensors, so checked the timing chain found some wear; replaced the chain. still no difference. Check fuel pressure, back pressure: o.k. Vacuum is low. The problem seems to be getting worse, the relearn help but did not repair. Any ideas???????

Have you done a compression test?

Yes a compression test was done twice.... the first time we did it before the timing chain was replaced and it was low on several cylinders. Then performed the compression test again after replacing the timing chain and all cylinders were o.k.

comes up cam and crank shaft correlation/misalignment?... when you replaced the timing chain did you check to see if the timing marks were correct? I have changed my cam & crank sensors also reflashed ecu still the same code. have you fixed your problem yet.

Engine Performance problem
2005 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

low power developed over couple of months. Had cam sensor code. Changed cam sensor, no codes returned but no improvement in power. Feels like lack of fuel, no servicable fuel filter so changed fuel pump module. Fuel pressure constant at approx. 55PSI. even at full throttle full load and still no codes. Map sensor readings seem to be correct, cam and crank sensor sync signal. Doesnt seem to have restricted exhaust but disconnected in front of cat. to proove. No noticeable improvement with performance decreasing greatly within seconds due to impropper O2 readings. Cam to crank differintial runs 15-18deg. Is that normal and if not why hasn't it set timing code? Thanks in advance for any info.

It sounds like you have gone over just about everything. I need to know how many miles are on the vehicle. Also, as far as the timing, that is correct. If it was @TDC or retarded, that would cause a power loss, but it is advanced to where it should be.

Have you checked the intake for any vacuum leaks? Also, since there are no codes, have you checked the injectors. The fuel pressure is right where it should be, but something may have gotten the injectors plugged.

Let me know. This is going to be a tough one, but we'll figure it out.

Joe

147K miles. Intake system is tight. runs smooth as glass throughout rpm range, don't suspect clogged injectors. Witnessed excessive blowing/ kicking up dust from tail pipe while the van was being moved this morning. No tell tail sounds but leaning towards restricted exhaust. Cat has slight dip in temp in mid section when viewed with infrared therm. we'll see. If you have any other thoughts please post back. Thanks again.

Matt.

Is there anything other than you can think of the van is doing differently?

check engine oil light went on in my 2004 dodge Grand Caravan and the car stopped accelerating. I turned the van off and then started the car back up again. The check engine oil light went off and I was able to drive normally like nothing ever happened What could have happened? Jenny from Southington, CT

Not sure, i would just start with a scan just to see if a problem was logged in the ECU, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

Thanks...the minivan will be looked at on Monday. I was told even a speck of dust could have done it and messed with the "brain" of the computer. It was odd because my best friend started the car and drove it around the block twice and the light went off and was drivable again. So it begs the question glitch or no? Thankfully my van is under warranty still. We made it home before we drove it to the shop.

While Turning left onto the highway I heard a sound like something dropped from the Passenger side of the Engine. Engine light went on (Flashing) and after a KM the engine powered down.

At the garage, they checked the wires and found a few shorts. After that it started on 4 cylinders and no power on the other 2. Expecting the Computer Problem, They changed it and Still having the same problem. It ha now been 2 weeks. HELP

No power on two cylinders? Can you explain?

They Got it started but it was only firing on 4 out of 6 . No signal from computer card for two cylinders. Thats why they assumed it was the card an changed it but the results stayed the same. Its been in their garage for 2 and a half weeks now

While idling in a drive thru car starts to bog down like its going to die and buck when A/C is on. Can't recall if does the same when heat is running as Mother Nature is giving me enough heat.

Anyway was wondering what would cause this and where to get started trying to fix the issue... Is it safe to drive as long as I don't go get my fast food?

The AC is simply adding more load to the engine.




First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system (very important)

. You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

Dodge Caravan 2001 3.3l flex fuel with over 111,000 miles. 2 weeks ago had a check engine light come on, turns out its because of the rotten fuel filler neck. (did not replace it yet). Drove fine in the morning 50-70 mph. Cant figure out it it happen while was driving or after morning trip but car does not accelerate over 40 mph. It might go higher but I'm afraid to fry my engine. When i drive 40 mph RPM is at least 3,100. Is this transmission or engine problem?
Want to know if it makes sense to invest into repair or just get rid of it.

Probably a transmission problem, knowing the caravans. I think every 15,000 miles the fluid and filter should be changed on them. I would re-check the codes, I'll bet there are more than just the evap codes now. Does the speedometer work?

You need to find out the repair costs versus replacement costs are to decide what to do with it.

Does it make sense to go to repair place and first ask to replace trans fluid?

I doubt it is going to help if it hasn't been done on a regular basis. If you do try it, make sure it gets the right fluid (atf+4), may want to add a bottle of lube gard too. IF there is a valve or solenoid sticking it may help.

I would suggest finding what codes are in the pcm first, as it may lead down a different path.

The car runs sluggish with slow acceleration and i smell gas throughout the car sometimes. When you press down on the accelerator it seems as if the motor is choking.

alot of times sluggish response is from the catalytic converter being clogged however there could be many reasons for bad or sluggish performance. it could be your fuel pump since a majority of cars are set to run at a fuel pressure at a certain p.s.i. it could also be a partially clogged fuel filter or even out of time or even clogged fuel infectors. if i had to take a guess i would say the catalytic converter. you can drill a small hole in the exhaust pipe between the converter and the exhaust manifold and see if that helps if it does replace the converter and plug the hole with jb weld if it doesn't improve performance just plug the hole with the jb weld and check the other items. hope this helps you.

as a single mom its hard to find an answer when i turn my air conditioning on my van loses power and doesnt seem to run well it also has like a miss to it. when i turn the air conditoning off it runs normal again

[quote:bbd26fe669="gaurdmom1"]Air Conditioning problem
2001 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 89500 miles
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as a single mom its hard to find an answer when i turn my air conditioning on my van loses power and doesnt seem to run well it also has like a miss to it. when i turn the air conditoning off it runs normal again[/quote:bbd26fe669]

OK, Does the A/C work normally? is the Check Engine Light On?

If A/C Doesn't work normally then it may need to be replaced. Sounds like it may have bad or going bad compressor.

I have the exact same problem. Did you find the solution?

[quote:07c5a73c5d="obxautomedic"][quote:07c5a73c5d="gaurdmom1"]Air Conditioning problem
2001 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 89500 miles
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as a single mom its hard to find an answer when i turn my air conditioning on my van loses power and doesnt seem to run well it also has like a miss to it. when i turn the air conditoning off it runs normal again[/quote:07c5a73c5d]

OK, Does the A/C work normally? is the Check Engine Light On?

If A/C Doesn't work normally then it may need to be replaced. Sounds like it may have bad or going bad compressor.[/quote:07c5a73c5d]

Hi, my van starts fine, but when I step on gas it loses power. When I ease on gas slow it down it moves slow then picks up speed, not much though more than 35 mph. I do not have that much to spend. how could I clean fuel filter manually?

Forget the fuel filter. Other than on diesel trucks, you will never solve a running problem on a Chrysler product by replacing the fuel filter. There is no practical way to clean one either. If one were to become restricted, the symptom would be engine stalling when the highest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting. That applies more to the pickup screen inside the tank.

What you are describing sounds a lot like what we used to run into in the early 1990's with failing MAP sensors. That sensor has the biggest say in fuel metering calculations. There is a range of acceptable signal voltages, and even though the voltage could be wrong, as long as it is within that acceptable range, no diagnostic fault code will be set.

A leaking vacuum hose going to the MAP sensor will make it send the wrong signal voltages too. Your sensor plugs right into the intake manifold so you do not have to worry about that hose, but you should check for other vacuum leaks. Next, read the diagnostic fault codes. If there are none related to that sensor, a mechanic would use a scanner to view live data during a test drive to see if anything looks wrong. I am never a fan of throwing random parts at a problem, but with no scanner, you might want to swap in a good used sensor and see if that helps before pursuing more expensive solutions.

This is from Sergio Delacerda,

So I changed spark plugs and fuel filter, but it still bogs out.

I told you to forget about the fuel filter. That, and the spark pugs won't cause this problem. Look for vacuum leaks and have the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. You might want to look at fuel pressure too. I'd have to look it up to be sure, but I think it should be around 50 psi.

First, service engine light on / off sveral times a week , whila at a stop the engine loses an rpm or two with just a bit of a rough idle then smooths out again, finally the engine loses power once in awhile when driving at highway speeds for 1-2-3 minutes it seems to just coast and slow down a bit, then it kicks back in and runs smoothly again..

Is your check engine light on? If yes turn the key from off to on three times, on the fourth one leave it in the on position, the codes will display on the odometer, write em down and post em...

Pull the codes as suggested, go to Autozone and get scanned for free and comeback with it-I've been here before with a weak spot on the throttle position sensor on a different make/model

[quote:d86aea3d1a="merlin2021"]Is your check engine light on? If yes turn the key from off to on three times, on the fourth one leave it in the on position, the codes will display on the odometer, write em down and post em...[/quote:d86aea3d1a]

I was driving the other day and my ABS light came on and then at times when I would come to a complete stop the car would lose all power and the auto locks would go crazy. The light is not on anymore and I can still start the car when it loses power. Does this have anything to do with the ABS system? IF not can you please give me some info on why this might happen? Thanks

[quote:f2559dc3e8="keri001"]Electrical problem
1997 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 171000 miles
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I was driving the other day and my ABS light came on and then at times when I would come to a complete stop the car would lose all power and the auto locks would go crazy. The light is not on anymore and I can still start the car when it loses power. Does this have anything to do with the ABS system? IF not can you please give me some info on why this might happen? Thanks[/quote:f2559dc3e8]clean and tighten the battery terminals.

I have a 1997 Dodge Chrsyler 3.0L engine size @ 190K. It has recently been serviced and was running fine until this am. I was driving on the highway doing 100 km/h on the highway.. All of a sudden I realize I was losing power.. gas was not going through the system. I pulled over to the side and decided to look in the tank and found that someone had put what smells like fabric softner in my tank. I am not sure that this is fixable or not. Does anyone have any suggestions??

:cry:

[quote:1d5fa0efd6="Michelle Brown"]I have a 1997 Dodge Chrsyler 3.0L engine size @ 190K. It has recently been serviced and was running fine until this am. I was driving on the highway doing 100 km/h on the highway.. All of a sudden I realize I was losing power.. gas was not going through the system. I pulled over to the side and decided to look in the tank and found that someone had put what smells like fabric softner in my tank. I am not sure that this is fixable or not. Does anyone have any suggestions??

:cry:[/quote:1d5fa0efd6]

Change the f/filter Get it siphoned out and refuel and hope it works.

Hi, I have a 1996 caravan that within the last year started just losing power spontaneously. Last may we took it to the dodge dealership and they replaced the ECM to the tune of over 600.00 yet it's still doing it. It doesn't seem to matter what speed or what the temp is outside when I'm driving. It's done it a few times over the summer then three times on the 28th of Oct (once at 60mph, just lost power and coasted, took me 20 minutes to get it to start, 2nd time was at a stop light in the middle of downtown portland (yikes) and third was going through a parking lot and pulled onto a street and it just died). Only engine code is the 02 sensor. Everything else was checked and rechecked by dodge in may so we have NO idea why it's doing it again. Seems to come and go when it feels like it.