Ac Problems

How much Freon did you add to the system? How long is the compressor staying engaged? Do you have gauges to check what the low and high side pressures are?

We actualy didnt have to add any it had 55 psi. We looked closer at the compressor and it actully isnt spinning. We should get a new compressor tomorrow. Thanks i'll reply how things go tomorrow.

Before you do that, jump the low pressure switch to see if the compressor will engage. Also, check fuses and see if there is power to the clutch on the compressor and let me know what you find.

If your compressor isnt spinning replace the compressor relay first Its a larger fuse under the hood in the fuse box

Thanks, that's good advice.

So I own several GM cars and vans that I run as taxis. I have been repairing them myself for eleven years. I have never come across this issue. This is a Canadian Impala with 48,5000 kilometers on it.

I have replaced the compressor twice (failed units) as well as the condenser and expansion valve. The system has been flushed. Orifice replaced. Still not cold inside and no sweating either on the lines or dripping from the car. Pressures on an eighty degree day are approximately 35-40 low and 150-180 high side at 1500 rpm. The blend door works: no hot air and lots of flow. I added approximately 1.2 oz of oil as that is what I lost in the replacement. Also added app. 1.6 lbs of aftermarket 134 equivalent The question: is it possible that a dirt filled evaporator would allow air flow but because the whole system to run warmer than it should? I am really stumped. Thanks in advance.

The high side is not high enough it should be about 240 high side pressure. Here is a guide to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thanks for the reply. New orifice screen already. And yes, I'll refill to that spec but it has not for the second season dripped from the EVAP case but the hole is not plugged. And never any condensation on the lines under hood. All my other vehicles sweat from those lines. When I flushed the system, everything flowed well and again, the gauges do not imply a blockage.
Thanks again !

If you grab the suction pipe where it comes our of the firewall, is it ice cold?

If you touch the liquid line after the condenser, what is the temperature? Is it ambient temp, warm to the touch or hot to the touch?

What happens to the pressures and temp if you bring the RPMs up to 3000?

So here is the scoop. I evacuated and refilled the system to correct weight. Ambient temperature is 85. At 1500 rpm, High side is 150-175. Low side is 32-38. At 3000 rpm, high side is 150-195. Low side 28-36. Suction at firewall is slightly cool. Liquid line is too hot to touch off the condenser.

If your liquid line is too hot to touch, that indicates the condenser is not doing its job for one reason or another.
Try this. With the AC on high, get a garden hose and start spraying down the condenser and see if the suction pipe and the vent temperature get colder.

I will try that. Fans come on but not high speed and they are not always running. On a day like today I think they should be.

Thanks for the quick reply! Just to be clear: the liquid line off the condenser is the smaller one correct?

The pressures are not high enough to trigger high fan which is surprising. There could be a number of reasons for that. You could have a bypass type condenser that can be 75% plugged up and still not raise the pressures. You could also have a service port that is positioned on the far side of a blockage so it is unable to see the high pressure.

There is something else not right here.
You stated you replaced both the expansion valve and the orifice tube. That is impossible. The system cannot have both. All the information I see shows this as an expansion valve system so assuming that is true, if you also installed an orifice tube also, remove it right away.

What GM calls an orifice on this car is just a screen. It is not the same as the older system.

mother in laws car dosen't blow heat while sitting idling. what do you think?

Check and make sure the coolant is not low. Often times at low engine speeds, the water pump cant deliver hot water continuously through the core if the level is low. Do you also hear sloshing noise when accelerating?

The term "orifice" means small hole. You cannot have that before the expansion valve. They both do the same job.

definately a flow problem. could mean a partially plugged heater core?

check condenser for two things if there is a "bug screen " rip that off and throw it it cuts air supply down at least 15% then see if condenser is full of stuff. you might because of temperature put a fan in front of car and see if that changes things as well.

according to 1 report any air in system causes this problem. check to make sure radiator is full.

Wrenchtech. I am sorry. It must be my terminology. Yes. It has an expansion valve not an orifice. Alldata calls it an orifice tube. The screen fits into the tube in the second picture.
HMAC300. The condenser was replaced. The old one was aged. all pushed in from stones etc. The reason I changed it was that it seamed like that was my problem.
Spraying water on the condenser does not significantly change the vent temperature or lines.

Is the pipe temperature the same at both ends of that tube?

Off the condenser into the evaporator? I will check. do you think there could be too much oil? I have had the car three years. I replaced compressor with a used one. I flushed the system (only what I am supposed to). I am wondering if I did not get all the original oil out?

You put less than 2 oz of oil. That should not be the problem. Was the condenser replaced before or after the last compressor replacement?
Did you add oil to the compressor itself? Where in the compressor?

one other thing if this has an expansion valve does it work ? is the piece that tells it to open/close making good contact with evaporator? and insulated or does it stick into coil and fell out or came out. check that as well.

Wrenchtech. Condenser was replaced after the compressor. Added oil to both sides meaning just the top. Not the drain plug in the bottom.
HMAC300. The expansion valve is brand new. It does not stick into evaporator.

And to be clear, the system has not blown cold since the first compressor change two years ago. The system was flushed at that point.

That plug is the crankcase and that is where all oil has to be added.

The heat in 2006 Impala will blow cold intermittent then go back to hot what is wrong? I can tell at stops is when it starts blowing cold but when accelerating it gets hotter.

it sounds like your heater core is plugged up. Upon acceleration more pressure is going through the cooling system to make it hot. Have the system flushed and the heater core back flushed.

Hmmmm. Not what I was told but makes sense. It was never drained before I put it in. So then maybe I added too much oil?

Lets clear the air about Jimmy's response. Jimmy apparently is not a mechanic otherwise he would know that you don't get air in the cooling system unless there is a leak. Posssibly a leaky intake or head gasket which is why pressure testing will not show anything. How often do you pressure test hot? Cold perhaps the gasket will not leak but hot it will. It is a sealed system. And also a 2006 impala will not have a 3.6L engine or a 3.9L. Those engines came out in the impala when the body style changed to the current style in 2007. It is normal for a heater core to be plugged after 4 or 5 years when the coolant is older. It is typical for a plugged core to give off more heat under acceleration as the pressure increases and decreases with lower rpm.
Jimmy, make sure you know what you are talking about before you tell someone that they shouldn't have their vehicle checked out by a professional. We can't see the vehicle in person so the best thing to do is guide not feed them BS.

So after starting over, I realized that the fans will not come on when the AC compressor is engaged. My other 06 fans stay on constant when the compressor engages. It's gauge readings never move whether at idle, 1500 or 3000 rpm.
They come on every 40 seconds to bring down the engine temp but that's it......

seepics for cooling fan diagram 2 pics

That's great. Ok thanks!

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Air Conditioning problem
2006 Chevy Impala 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I keep blowing my air condition fuse if i take the relay fuse out then change the compresser fuse the compresser cuts on and my car blows cold air for a bout ten minutes then it blows the compresser fuse and blows hot air again after 3 times of doing this the compresser fuse blows as soon as I put it in some one told me it could be the air condition c lutch can the clutch cause the air compresser fuse to blow?or can the compresser do that also? What is causing the fuse to blow? Also before this happened I use to here a squiling nose comeing from the compresser i

your compressor clutch could be going bad causing this like drawing to many amps. Or it could be low on freon. or both. Have a pro check this out.

Thanks. I will. Relays are good. I'm thinking PCM. Will have it scanned with Tech II and will report back

My son has the Implala and when he has the heater on if will blow out warm/hot air when accelarating but when idoling it will blow out cold air.