Water pump replacement instructions please

Here are videos and guides to help you get the job done

https://youtu.be/3-qGNg5qeEw

and

https://youtu.be/N_-MLVlBHk8

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fan-clutch-removal

Please run down these guides and report back.

thank you the guides and videos showed me how to do the job I saved $$$$

Truck in the shop for second time in 2 months. First time they replaced the water pump and thermostat housing. ($500.00) Telling me today it is the part under the housing where the hoses go in and out. (What would that be?) $500.00 again is the estimate. The shop is very reputable and have dealt with them for years, but does this sound right ? After diagnosis this part has apparently cracked. Thank's Steve

that is called a front cover and water goes from teh pump into and ot of the block. pic enclosed.

how do you change the bearings in the water pump and how do you get the fan off the shaft so you can get to the water pump

u have the replace the water pump as one unit and is it similar to this u need a special tool

How do you remove water pump

Removal and Installation Drain the cooling system. Remove the drive belt.

Remove the bolts and the water pump pulley.

Remove the bolts and the water pump. NOTE: Lubricate the water pump O-ring, with MERPOL(R) .

To install, reverse the removal procedure. https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm

I've read it to be recommended that when replacing one the other should be replaced as well. If a water pump that still functions properly is replaced simply for the reason of preventative maintenance and not part failure due to an instance of having convenient access to it, does the recommendation to also replace the fan clutch still apply?

Good morning.

If the fan clutch has failed, just replace the fan clutch. No need to replace the water pump unless it is leaking.

If the water pump has failed, then yes, I would replace the fan clutch.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

Roy

In this case neither the water pump nor the fan clutch has failed actually. I'm going to be replacing the timing cover gasket and figured I'd just install a new water pump instead of using the old one when reassembling everything. The truck has just over 200,000 miles on it and I've owned it since about 100,000 with never having needed to replace the water pump. Figured while it still may be functioning/not leaking it likely has some wear considering the mileage and wouldn't hurt to just replace. If I do, I was wanting to know if it'd be advised to also replace the fan clutch?

Okay, that is good information.

If you have the cover off, replace the pump and fan clutch. With the mileage, that is being pro active.

Roy

Right on and thank you for the help.

You are welcome.

always glad to help.

Roy

I have just one quick extra question. For fan clutch replacement on this Ford Ranger 3.0 liter V6 2wd, would you recommend a standard or severe duty clutch? Not too often do I haul anything in the truck and even when I do the load weight isn't too excessive, probably 500–600 pounds at most.

Standard is good. If you were pulling better than 1,000 pounds, then use the heavy duty.

Roy

Engine Performance problem
2000 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 112k miles

I am in the process of replacing the water pump in my 3.0L Ford Ranger, and I'm having a problem getting the pulley off. It says in the Haynes manual to brace against to of opposite bolts on the pulley hub and hold the pulley in place (with the belt still on) while turning the fan clutch nut counter clockwise. I can't get any leverage on the bolts or get anything to hold onto the pulley nuts to keep the pulley secured while I do this. The pulley is of a concave design, hiding the nuts away from sight also. Making another observation obvious to me- "Fords are a pain in the butt". Any ideas or procedures I should doing differently?

Try push down on the belt for extra tension, or use a deep sochet and hold the smaller bolt.

Removal (Ranger) Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner duct. Drain cooling system. Using Fan Clutch Holder (T96T-6312-B) and Fan Clutch Wrench (T96T-6312-A), remove nut retaining clutch fan to pulley. Remove fan shroud and cooling fan as an assembly.

[quote="Dave H"]Removal (Ranger) Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner duct. Drain cooling system. Using Fan Clutch Holder (T96T-6312-B) and Fan Clutch Wrench (T96T-6312-A), remove nut retaining clutch fan to pulley. Remove fan shroud and cooling fan as an assembly.

Thanks but I've already been down that route and tried that, I've been all over my Haynes manual and the internet trying to figure out how to get around this. None of the specialty tools work with the pulley and applying more tension to the belt does nothing either. It still slips.

Its a 3.0 so it should be left hand threaad but im not sure.

[quote:dae7044b5c="Fordman16"]Its a 3.0 so it should be left hand threaad but im not sure.[/quote:dae7044b5c]

Yeah, it's a 3.0 efi. Should have left handed threads. Anyone suggest just removing the water pump with fan clutch and pulley still in tact?

Removing the large nut to remove the fan blade is mandatory; you'll never get to those "hidden" bolts securing the water pump to the engine block because they are blocked by the pulley.

Left-hand or Right-hand? Solution: Just observe or imagine the fan spinning in it's natural motion. Stop the engine......you need to impact drive the large nut in the SAME direction as the natural spinning motion of the fan. Spray some penetrating oil to help in loosening the threads. You'll need an impact force to loosen the initial tension of the large nut. Put a large crescent wrench or the special tool and smack it with a hammer (careful not to ruin anything else around it). That's the only way, and increase tension on the belt as suggested by tugging on the tensioner.

Impact will likely be your only solution to break the nut free. And lot's of patience...

Removed radiator and fan shroud, how do i getthe fan off the water pump assembly or should i just try to take the pump and fan assembly off as a unit from the engine.
i already donated some noney earlier this month . having hard time paying right now

Hello –

Thanks for the info………

Sounds like you did the hard part….the radiator and the fan shroud. Though you didn’t have to remove the radiator…..my suggestion since you have it off is to either have it cleaned out or replace it. You do have 120K on the vehicle……..good preventative maintenance. You might also compare the price of having it cleaned out to replacing it too. At Auto Zone you can pick one up for about $240 and if you go to the Radiator Barn (link below) it is only about $139. Again, I like doing preventive maintenance. It is drained, removed, you are there…..
Also I would replace all of the hoses. They too have 120K on them.

I removed the fan in order to get to the heads and now I'm trying to install it back to the water pump pulley, but for some reason when I thread it in the fan blade is hitting the A/C compressor. I installed the belt on all the pulley and it seems like that they are all aligned. My question is, how do I install it correctly without hitting the A/C compressor?

Hi,

The cooling fan is mounted on the water pump, so I'm not sure how it could be hitting the compressor. I would think the compressor may not be mounted correctly.

Take a look through these directions. These are the removal and install directions for the cooling fan. Let me know if this helps. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_________________________

1999 Ford Truck Ranger 4WD V6-3.0L VIN U
Procedures
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Radiator Cooling Fan Fan Blade Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
Fan Blade
Removal and Installation
1. Remove fan shroud. See: Fan Shroud > Procedures


pic 1



2. Remove the bolts.


3. Separate the fan blade from the fan clutch.


pic 2



4. To install, reverse the removal procedure.



______________________________

Let me know.

Joe

What direction do the water pump pulley bolts loosen clockwise or counter clockwise. I know stupid question. I don’t remember. I need to replace the plastic fan.

ugh...as far as I know all bolts loosen turning counter clockwise.

If they are left hand threads wouldn’t it loosen clockwise?

Yes, of course, but I haven't ever run into that issue before when doing a waterpump on any ford.

How to install the water pump?

Hello,

You will need to start by disconnecting the battery so you do not have an accidental short. Next drain the coolant.

You may need to jack the car up also.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

Here is a guide and video that will show you what you are in for when doing the job and some diagrams (below) of what it will take on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

1996 Ford Ranger 6 cyl

Can you tell me how to replace a water pump on my ford ranger its 3.0.

I was wondering how to replace the water pump and thermostat in a1995 ranger 2.3 lit. engine. Do i need to remove the fan and shroud to get to them. And I it difficult.

Yes, you do have to remove the fan and shroud, along wwith all the belts.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1. Drain cooling system, then remove fan shroud attaching bolts and position shroud over fan.
2. Remove fan retaining bolts, then the fan and shroud assembly.
3. If equipped, remove A/C compressor and/or power steering pump drive belts.

Fig. 23 Water Pump Replacement



4. Remove water pump pulley, then the vent tube to canister, Fig. 23.
5. Remove heater hose to water pump, then the timing belt outer cover.
6. Remove lower radiator hose from water pump.
7. Remove water pump attaching bolts and the water pump.
8. Reverse procedure to install.

My son was driving when he heard a strange noise from under the hood and what he thought was smoke. I later determined that it was steam that he saw. He said coolant was leaking all over the place, and after looking, I determined that the water pump had failed. I replaced the water pump and after checking the thermostat, it and the thermostat housing both needed replacing. After doing all of this work, I filled the radiator up with fluid and it wasn't leaking. I started the truck up and inspected again, nothing. I thought the problem was fixed but after ideling for about 5 minutes, I looked underneath and sure enough, was leaking fluid again. Looking through the beam of a flashlight, it appears that the fluid is coming from above and/or around the thermostat housing. I know it is sealed well, it was such a pain to get the damn thing back in, but I know it has...or should have a good seal. Also, there is a knocking sound coming from the engine. Any ideas or suggestions would be very helpful. I checked the oil and couldn't see any water in it and checked the water coming out for the tell tale sign of a rainbow, indicating petroleum products, and couldn't find any. Thanks and I look forward to talking with you.

Basically where the thermostat rests in the housing, the placement of the gasket is often on the wrong side and the water outlet has to be turned to seats correctly. I attached another image that gives definitions to each item..

Ok, I've got this apart again but am still a bit confused. Does the thermostat fit over the gasket or under it? I took some pictures to show what I'm looking at, can I send them to you? I'm starting to get real frustrated and would like to do it right this time. Thank you very much for your help