AC not working

yes it does and i have replaced it

The temperature is controlled by the use of an air mix door that is operated by an electric motor/actuator. This door can be jammed or the actuator can be inoperative or have stripped plastic gears internally.

Air felt a little warm added r134 last night air conditioner was fine today blowing hot air compressor kicking in and out very often tonight air was cold. then I started car again compressor kicking on and off again blowing warm air.

You cannot just arbitrarily add refrigerant. It calls for a very specific amount of charge and too much can trash the whole system from high pressure. I suggest you have it professionally evacuated and recharged with the correct amount before you ruin the whole system. Do not use it in the meantime.

The weather is frigid, my temp guage in a short drive will max out setting off a warning light and immediately go back to normal temp. the air is warm but not hot and at a stop the air goes from warm to blowing cold air.

I believe that I answered this question previously. In case this is another, similar question, I'll do so again.

Unfortunately, there's only one reason your engine temp. would fluctuate to max-min, combined with the heater blowing cold air at idle, and warm air at driving speeds.

You have a partially blown head gasket. What is occurring is exhaust gases are getting past the head gasket and into the coolant system. The air bubbles get trapped inside of the heater core and radiator. At idle speeds, the water pump isn't strong enough to push the coolant past the air bubbles. But as you rev the motor (at driving speeds), the water pump pushes the air bubbles out of the way.

But at sustained highway speeds (60+), there will be so much air in the system, it will over heat, and puke most of the coolant out of the surge tank.

Your only permenant remedy is to have the head gaskets replaced. Block/Radiator sealant will absolutely not work in this case, and will only clog up your heater core, costing you more money in the long run.

You may be tempted to put block/radiator sealer in there as an cheap fix. But I have over 15-years experience in automotive repair, and as a professional, I advise you against this.

As an emergency measure, you can continue to drive your vehicle, but you must watch the temp. gauge closely. When the needle gets past 210-degrees, or past the half-way mark, shut down your engine immediately. Allow it to cool sufficiently until you can remove the radiator cap, then start the vehicle and squeeze the upper radiator hose several times while the engine is reved up to at least 1500 r.p.m.s.

This will bleed the air out of the system and allow you to drive again until it fills back up with air. Then repeat the same procedure until you can get home.

This is only an emergency measure, and if you continue to allow your engine to run too hot, the engine will seize up and you won't be able to drive it at all.

I hope this helps

Air Conditioning problem
2004 Chevy Impala 171000 miles

my air conditioners blow very little cold air when the car is moving every so often it will blow normal what could be the problem

I suggest you take your car to a shop and have them pull a vacuum on your AC, check for leaks and recharge with refrigerant. It can usually get done for less than $100. AC repair is usually not something for DYI-ers because the law prohibits handling refrigerant without a license.