won't start

Hello,

It sounds like the engine coolant temperature sensor has gone bad but to be sure here is two guides to help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hi there....
No block heater here. we checked the fuel pressure early this morning however, and it measured in at 50#....we just checked it a good 3 hours later, car not running, and it's holding still at 40#
The other part was...in adding that starting fluid to the throttle, car started without hesitation, and continues to run.

No block heater here....
We did however check the fuel pressure this morning at it came in at 50lbs. In checking it a good 3 hours later, it's holding steady at 40lbs.?
Otherwise, the only other thing that will get it to start and stay, is that starter fluid in the throttle. No hesitation, and very strong.

Did you check pressure, key on engine off, without starter fluid? If that checks out, do you have an injector pulse,engine cranking, no starter fluid.

I finally changed out the engine coolant sensor and BAM the problem is gone ! thanks for you help I love this site.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

When I turn the key it is just a clicking noise. I intially thought it was the battery. But the battery appears to be fine. Alos, there is a humming niose coming from the fuse box under the hood and my head lights appear to be on but very dim. Could this be caused by alternator (sorry for the spelling) malfunction? I disconnected the positive cable from the battery. I was afraid that the noise and dim head lights may drain the battery. Thanks for your time!

If you have a digital multimeter take a reading across the battery posts, with everything turned off, around 12.6 volts is considered a full charge. Also check battery cables. If you can get it running, take a second reading across the battery posts with the meter, it should be at least a volt higher, that shows the alternator is charging. If the reading isn't any higher suspect the alternator or wiring circuits. I'd check the wiring circuits to and from the alternator before I condemned the alternator.

Good points, also if you need to disconnect the battery ALWAYS remove the ground(-) not the positive! Try a jump start, relays and modules dont work well with low charge batteries!
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_alternator.htm
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/battery.htm
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm
https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_use_a_voltmeter.htm
https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm

Car won't start, I turn the key it cranks and it only backfired couple times and also its -30 with the windchill I don't have a garage or a shed. When it backfired I seen black smoke. Could it be a frozen gas lines I can hear fuel pump, I'm not a mechanic. thanks!

Welcome, do you use a block heater? Also, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Those temps are too dangerous to work outside.

[quote:21ffa9b804="jdl123"]Welcome, do you use a block heater? Also, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Those temps are too dangerous to work outside.[/quote:21ffa9b804]

Yes I use block heater, it's always plugged in, theres gas in it and don't know to how check fuel pressure and what kind a gauge do you mean?

I was talking about a fuel pressure gage. Some of the national brand autostores will loan a gage. It screws onto the schrader valve at the fuel rail. With the engine cranking, I'd also check for spark at the plugs.

Thanks, And When I turn the Ignition Security light comes on it has anti-theft

If the lite stays on or flashing, could be an issue. Passlock is an injector disable system. I can't track it down from here.

Of course attempted the passlock feature did not work. Car turns over but will not start. Changed the coil, battery checked the alternator, the fuel pump I can hear it come on, and changed the ignition cylinder over the weekend. Still no luck, I can unplug the battery and wait an hour and she starts up just fine, so I am baffled!

So when it will crank and wont start is the security light on solid or flashing with the key in the run position?

The security light stays on not flashing.

My car wont start. I put the key in the ignition and turned it and I heard no noise. I tried to start it many times but nothing happened. The lights work, radio, and electrical things work. This is why I don't think it's a dead battery. I have no idea what I should do because I am a first time car owner. please help!

Load test the battery make sure its cleaned and tightened properly if it continues check the ignition switch, park and neutral switch and starter solenoid.

2003 Pontiac Grand Am 2.2 will not start. Alternator and starter are fine. Battery will not turn over car even with jump, but after multiple attempts of trying to start car, battery loses power. Battery tested ok, but something is draining its power and car refuses to turn over completely. Had heard a clicking behind dash for about a week prior to incident, but was told it was from my turning signals.

My boyfriend as 02' Grand AM is does this frequently. His anti-theft lock kicks on randomly. When this happens, his SECURITY light flashes on his dash. What he has to do is leave his key in the ON position for about 10 minutes until the light stops flashing. Then the darn car starts right back up. Happens very randomly but always ends up starting.

I have been having constant issues with my car lately. The most recent is the car will not start. I drove it yesterday morning everything was fine then last night I was going to go to the gym and it acted like it was going to start but the engine never turned over. I tried it again today, same thing. I had this problem about 3 weeks ago and brought it in and it was my starter which is now replaced. I also had my ignition switch replaced about 3 months ago, and had it in last week to get a body module replaced. Is it the fuel pump this time or maybe something still not right with the starter?

If engine is not rotating when trying to start, then starter or bad ground/electrical connection to starter.

If engine rotates but won't start, then fuel or ignition.

Check fuel pressure with mechanical gauge, if OK the check spark with spark tester.

My car cranks and cranks but will not start?

check for spark and fuel pressure. you need both for the vehicle to start.

use a spark tester and make sure that the spark tester is properly grounded out to a good clean engine ground.

I've been having an intermitten issue with the car not turning over or starting when turning the key. I'd pull out the starter fuse and pop it back in, turn the key and the car would fire right up.

This issue has happened maybe 8x in the last 6 months, and pulling the fuse and plugging it back in has always solved the problem.

Well now the engine will not turn over and this does not solve the issue. Curious if anyone might have an idea as to what to check.

I get all my interior lights, the radio will turn on and play, the battery has a charge, and is only 3 months old.

Any suggestions are welcome....thanks.

Yesterday I took a tester to all the engine fuses, and they all had connection. It's seemed the ground from the fuse box to the chassis was and on and off issue.

The fuse box is very loose, I can't see underneath it, but I'm assuming there must be some kinda loose wire underneath there? Again any help is great.

No codes, no security light. Replaced fuel pump, pressure regulator, injectors, crank and cam sensors, fuses, relays. Original ECM and reprogrammed ECM act the same. ECM grounds are good. Replaced gas and checked pressure and flow. Plugs and injectors working. Compression is good.

You need to test it and see if you are actually getting the signals from the crank and cam sensors. It is possible that there is a broken wire or shorted bias voltage to them. Do you have a scan tool that can read live data? If so look at the engine rpm and timing numbers while cranking. If one or both are missing you have a signal problem.
Then you will need to test for the bias voltage and grounds at the sensors.

I was able to see the throttle position, about 200 rpm at crank, and the O2 sensors bouncing around, and the timing going 0 to 10 degrees during crank. Still no codes. If I use starting fluid it will hit a few times. Is there something that would keep the fuel injectors from working?

The security systems immobilizer can kill them. Do you hear the pump prime? Perhaps jump the pump to make it stay on and see if it runs, if it does go through the relay socket and be sure it has good contacts. Then try a hard reset. Remove the battery cables, hold them together for about thirty seconds, reconnect and see if it starts.

The pump comes on and the pressure stays up. I do not know if the immobilizer is the same as the security light, but when the security light is on, the starter does not work. I have had the battery off for days at a time with the same result, but will try the hard reset tonight. I am leaning toward a new body control module as it is the only part that I have not swapped out or replaced.

The immobilizer is part of the security system. It can activate without turning on the security light if the BCM gets scrambled data. It will shut off injector pulse.

Injectors are activated when the ECM gets the signals from the crank and cam signals telling it that the engine is cranking. Once started it uses those signals to alter timing and injector pulse. Does a noid light show you have injector pulse when cranking?

Car won't start, put in new batterie, new starter, gas in the car.
Somebody told me it could be the voltage regulator or the alternator, I didn't change the alternator yet.
My question is where is voltage regulator located or could be a fuse or is voltage regulator located in a fuse box?
So need to know asap.

Thanks

The voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator. As far as the no start, if the battery is good, the alt has nothing to do with it. Is the starter working to crank the engine? Was the check engine light on prior to the problem? If the starter is working, have you checked to see if the engine has spark and fuel?

Let me know.
Joe

Yes, I checked all the injector drivers and all six seemed to be working. Only while cranking of course because the intake was off. I just did the hard reset and it did fire a few times on the first try, then nothing for any other cranks. It also does this if I leave the battery off overnight. Is this looking like a bad BCM?

[quote:3d72c13048="Jacobandnickolas"]The voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator. As far as the no start, if the battery is good, the alt has nothing to do with it. Is the starter working to crank the engine? Was the check engine light on prior to the problem? If the starter is working, have you checked to see if the engine has spark and fuel?

Let me know.
Joe[/quote:3d72c13048]

Hi Joe,
yes the starter turns just doesn't wanna start and I didn't check if theres a spark and engine light didn't come on, theres gas in the car, I checked if would spray, gas sprayed out.
So I have no clue whats wrong with it.
Thanks

It's possible, I'm leaning more to either a bad signal feed into it but without seeing it myself it's a pain to track. Especially when it tries to start then dies. The immobilizer shouldn't let that happen.

Check the Engine Coolant Temp. sensor. I've seen those fail and cause strange problems.

When you say gas sprayed out, from where do you mean? Also, I need you to check for spark. If you need directions, let me know. Something tells me you saw gas spray from the injectors which then tells me there is no spark.

Let me know if you need directions.

Joe