EGR or DPFE is located on right side of intake manifold. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

where is the egr valve located? And how do I know if it just needs to be cleaned or replaced?

egr vavle is mounted on the intake manifold, if it is going bad you will probably have trouble codes, and you will have rough idle, rough acceleration, bad performance.

I have gotten a P401 code, and it relates to a problem with the EGR valve. My questions:

1. What does the EGR system do?
2. What harm am i doing to my engine until i get this fixed?
3. How difficult is it to replace/
4. Where is it located?

EGR= Exhaust gas recirculation system, recovers unburned vapors for re-burning in the engine. Will not pass your next state inspection and could lead to more trouble if not fixed.
Here's what to do:
Pull the egr off, clean the port under it all the way to the throttle plate, I use a length of steel coathanger...put it all back together, reset the codes, if light comes on again, replace the EGR position sensor, thats the one the two small hoses from the exhaust plug into! First make sure the EGR itself holds vacuum! If the valve dont move, it will also set P0401!

We don't have state inspections here, so that is not an issue. Where would I find the EGR valve on my 98 ford taurus stationwagon? if I don't fix it, what long term harm might happen?

What can happen is engine hesitation, also the carbon will start to fill in the intake manifold, then you need to remove that and clean out the carbon, Also if too much unburned gas collects in the catalytic converters, they will be damaged. this is a 10 minute fix, Go to the local parts supply house, buy a new EGR gasket before you do it, if the EGR opens and closes and the diaphram holds air, do what I said...EGR is on top of the motor toward the passenger side, look at the back exhaust manifold, you will see a flex tube thats about an inch in diameter, loosen the large nut on the EGR then the 100 mm bolts, pull EGR off, clean both the EGR pintle, and the port, and re assemble. DONE!

Thanks for the info. Let me make sure I have it right.

Step 1, remove EGR valve
Step 2, use a steel coat hanger to clean out tube? Do I just insert it all the way down? How or what do I use to clean it? Am I just trying to unblock stuff?
Step 3, reinstall EGR valve reset code and see what happens/
Step 4, if still get code replace EGR valve and reset?

Under the EGR is a port that runs right down to the throttle plate, ream it out with the coat hangar, then spray throttle body cleaner thru it, clean throttle plate, and EGR. Make sure EGR holds vacuum! Then reassemble, clear the code, if the code resets, and you are sure the port is clear under the EGR, Replace the EGR position sensor, not the EGR!

Other Category problem
1998 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 145000 miles
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I went to get my inspection sticker and was told there was a problem with my EGR valve. He said it may be a vacum problem. What other problems could there be with the EGR valve (i was reading over some of the messages youd previously recievd and saw where one man thought the valve may be dirty)? Secondly, where exactly is my EGR valve located and how would i go about changing it out myself? Should it be left up to a professional?

what code did you have? 401? i find in most all situations that the problem is not the valve at all, it is the sensor that detects exhaust pressure that fails. this is call the dpfe sensor and is very simple to install, unscrew 2 eight mm bolts unhook 2 vacuum lines then install new part. hope this helps

Okay what or how should I clean the EGR valve? is there a certain type of cleaner, do i need to soak it in something? As for the position sensor, where is it located? Also how do i test the egr to see if it holds a vacum?

it was 401. so its probably the sensor? great i'll look into changing that out. where is it located? near the egr valve or in a different area alltogether?

You seem to NOT be reading my answer thoroughly... SEE IF TH EGR holds vacuum, clean only the blacked PINTLE with soapy water, or TBI spray cleaner. Do this and see what happens. The sensor occasionally MELTS with the heat. Follow the two small tubes from that flex tube to the sensor, BE VERY gentle removing the rubber tubes, they break easily.

i was reading your mind. purchase the new sensor first it cost about 30 -40 bucks, then look at engine and try to match it up, this should be fairly easy. look for 2 gray rubber hoses they will connect to it, there are only 2 gray hoses under the hood so this makes it even easier and you will be surprised how easy it is to replace.

There seems to be a slight problem with my vacuum hose leading to the egr valve? I'm not fluent in mechanical terminology, but every time I start the vehicle, it sounds weak, and the hose keeps popping off. I had a similar problem a few weeks ago to where my car would actually not start, however, i just popped the hose back on and it worked fine. Im located in arizona, and I believe that the weather changes might be screwing with the shape of the hose. Would this affect the way my car would start or even run? Is it a hose problem or an egr problem? I appreciate your help.

Hi:
the hose is providing vacuum to the EGR. When the engine is running, remove the hose and see if there is pressure coming from the EGR. There shouldn't be. If there is, replace it. Also, to answer your question about the hose, yes it can cause a poor idle. Take the hose off and take it to the local parts store and get a new one and replace it.

Let me know what you find.

joe

I am having a problem with my car dying when I am stopped for longer than a 2 minutes. It is though my car is not getting enough gas when I am idle. My engine will shutter then the car will die. I recently had my EGR valve and coil on cylinder one replaced. My check engine light is on. I had it read and it says I have insuffencient EGR flow. Today my car when in neutral started reving up to 2 rpms then just dropped below 1 rpm and then died. What could be the problem.

Thanks,

Let's start the exact code number, rather than description for the check engine light. All of them if you have more than one. Also please post the first 8 digits of your VIN. I need to know the actual engine you have to provide accurate info.

I get three codes:

PO401 -- EGR Value has insufficient flow

PO171 -- System lean

PO174 -- System 2 lean

The first 8 numbers for my vin is IFAFP56S

When I opened the hood to look at my engine I found that a vaccum hose had come loose. I fixed the hose and ran the car with no problems. Then I turned on the air conditioner and could hear a sucking sound from the intake manifold. The rpms started to fluctuate, the car shuttered and died. I drove the car without the air conditioner and it drove fine. Cleared out all codes (from previous response) and the check engine light hasn't come back on.

If I am idle for any length of time with the air conditioner running the car will die. If I turn off the air conditioner the rpms stabilize and the car runs fine.

What could cause this?

Other Category problem
2000 Ford Taurus V6 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 108000 miles
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What is the easiest way to replace the EGR valve, and do I need to apply any sort of silicon to the gasket? Thanks.

Hi and welcome to 2carpros

My question is-why are you replacing the EGR-did you get a check engine light on it. Could be just a carbon problem holding it open or the DPFE if it has one.

You don't have to apply silicon just clean the mating surfaces the gasket will seal it in place.

[quote:f6a61a737b="rasmataz"]Hi and welcome to 2carpros

My question is-why are you replacing the EGR-did you get a check engine light on it. Could be just a carbon problem holding it open or the DPFE if it has one.

You don't have to apply silicon just clean the mating surfaces the gasket will seal it in place.[/quote:f6a61a737b]

Yes I got a check engine light that said the EGR was stopped up. I figured because of the age and mileage of the car I should go ahead and replace it. Thanks for your reply.

Electrical problem
1999 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 99 Taurus 3.0 DOHC. The check engine light came on, so I had it check at Auto Zone. The said it was the DPFE sensor. I change the sensor but the light never went out. I took it to Ford and they said the DPFE sensor is bad. I told them I change it already and they said the computer says its bad. They reset the computer and the light went out for a short time but came back on. Could it be possible that the new sensor I bought is bad or is there something else that could be telling me that the DPFE sensor is bad?

Yep! Pull the egr off, clean the port under it all the way to the throttle plate, I use a length of steel coathanger...put it all back together, reset the codes, if light comes on again, replace the EGR position sensor, thats the one the two small hoses from the exhaust plug into!

Hi, I have a 97 Taurus LX, 3.0 24V Duratec Engine.

The SES light was on, I had it tested and they said the EGR flow was both insufficient and excessive.

Today I cleaned the EGR valve, reset the PCM, and the SES light was off for a little while, it just now came back on.

So, do I need to get a new EGR valve or a new DPFE sensor, since these vehicles are notorious for those sensors failing..

One reason why I don't think it's the sensor is because the SES light was actually off for a while. If it was a faulty sensor, wouldn't the light have always been lit?

Thanks!!

A code P0401 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

The DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
There is a blockage in the EGR (tube), most likely carbon buildup
The EGR valve is faulty
The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vaccuum
Possible Solutions
In fixing this code, it is quite common for people to just replace the EGR valve only to have the OBD code return. The EGR valve is not always the culprit.

Use a vacuum pump and pull the EGR valve open while monitoring engine RPM's & DPFE voltage. There should be a noticable difference in RPM's with the EGR open
Clean out the EGR valve and/or tubing to remove deposits
Check the voltage at the DPFE, compare to specified values (refer to a repair manual for your specific model)
Replace the DPFE sensor (with a good quality / OEM one)

The DPFE sensors are known to cause both insufficent and excessive codes... Since Ford allows for much leeway before a code sets, that's why the MIL light won't come on until it either sees below .2 volts or above 4.5 volts

i have a 2001 ford taurus with 122000 miles with a 3.0 v6 engine,,my dpfe senor blew,,i was told that my coverters and o2 sensors may need changing,but i was aso advice to change the dpfe sensor,,i did and the new sensor blew also,,
can my o2 sensors and cat conveters cause this problem?
also is i t possible that my 02 sensors can be bad nad not my cat conveters?

[quote:79df66e59d="pgamble3"]i have a 2001 ford taurus with 122000 miles with a 3.0 v6 engine,,my dpfe senor blew,,i was told that my coverters and o2 sensors may need changing,but i was aso advice to change the dpfe sensor,,i did and the new sensor blew also,,
can my o2 sensors and cat conveters cause this problem?
also is i t possible that my 02 sensors can be bad nad not my cat conveters?[/quote:79df66e59d]
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

WOW!!!!!!!!
I'm assuming that you're doing this because your check engine light codes are indicating that you may have a problem with the dpfe sensor , o2 sensors & the catalytic convertor.
Sir, if you could reply with a bit more details, maybe i can help. The faults codes could be a good start. Just so you know, even if the 2 hoses that connect to the dpfe sensor are bad, the computer will say that the dpfe itself is bad. So insted of changing stuff that you don't need...you might want to consider have a diagnosis performed on your vehicle at a local repair shop!!!! It would be well worth your money!!!!
Hope this helps......Good Luck!!!!

the hoses going from the egr valve to the sensor blew off and the sensor burnt up. i replaced the sensor and reattached the hoses - one week later the same thing happened again - any idea why?

most likely the cat is clogged and you have excessive exhaust coming up overheating the hoses and melting the sensor.

i would have the cat checked for restriction.

Roy

Clean out the EGR valve and the ports thoroughly and see what happens

the same thing as a DPFE sensor? I would like to know because it seems as if I need DPFE sensor to fix the fault code (P1401) on my car (2001 Ford Taurus). At least that's what everybody is telling me. So I'd like to know if this is the same part before I buy it. Thanks in advance.

Peace.

E

No it's not the same part,, some had dpfe's, the position sensor on others,,, the egr position sensor sits on top of the egr valve, usually held on with 3 screws,, has a plunger on the bottom which sends a signal to the pcm noting movement of the egr valve.. the dpfe sensor is a notorious part for failing, probably the most common emission part failure on Ford cars,, it usually has an electrical connector and one or two rubber hoses attached, smallish rectangular unit..

an EGR valve pressure feedback sensor? I found that at the NAPA store back home for like $31, so, that ain't nothin'. It also fits the description that TaurusWheel gave me for a DPFE sensor just above here. Yay or nay?

Peace.

E

Hi
I have a 1995 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6, around 81000 miles.
I found that the EGR pressure sensor has been damaged by heat that is coming from the pressure tube connected to the pipe that runs from exhaust manifold to the EGR valve. My question is, Because of the very hot gases coming out of the tube, what keeps the rubber tube and the EGR pressure sensor from melting? I hope this question makes sense, because I don’t understand how I can keep the sensor from getting damaged.
Thanks

I have a 94 Taurus 3.0, never had an issue with that sensor being affected by heat.. usually the rubber tube fails from age and prolonged effects from the heat as a matter of course, yours is actually melting??? how many have you gone thru???

Thanks for your reply, TaurusWheel Only one has been damaged that I know of. Here is a little history about this car. It belongs to my stepdaughter; she received it from her aunt who did not take the best care of it. Because of the heat coming out of the metal tube into the rubber hose and eventually to the sensor port has caused the damage. When I found the damage, the rubber hose was burnt from the stream of hot gases coming out of the metal tube and before the rubber hose failed it cause melting type of damage around the sensor port from the hot gas. I know this seams like a dumb question, however, hot exhaust gases are suppose to come out of this tube right? The pressure sensor is there to monitor the pressure in the pipe running between the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve, right? Could the EGR valve not opening or working correcting be causing the hot exhaust gas to build up and leading to the EGR pressure sensor damage? I hope this makes sense, a lot of words to describe this problem. Thanks for the help.