replaced valve body still had hard shift - replaced trs LP fuse NOW will not shift

Yes, this is with the new sonnax valve body.

Just curious is 285 psi low, high or what you would expect?

175Psi or greater is min for the pumps max output but i like to see over 200psi.285Psi is on the high side but with the sonnax upgraded pressure regulator sleeve the can run that high.The four valve bodies i rebuilt with the sonnax upgrades were about that pressure for max pressure.You need to get a good pressure gauge like i said.Also try your old valve body again.

Here are my readings with a 600 psi gauge and the original valve body.

p - 50 psi
r - 50 psi
n - 50 psi
d - 50 psi
3 - 50 psi
2 - 50 psi

When I pulled the TRS LP fuse I read the following pressures.

p - 260 psi
r - 250 psi
n - 180 psi
d - 240 psi
3 - 240 psi
2 - 240 psi

Do you rebuild valve bodies. Do you still think the valve body is my problem?

As far as a high low reading in park with the fuse in and out those reading look almost what you should except you usually see 60psi in park with the fuse in but 50psi isnt the end of the world.Now it looks like a control issue from the pcm.Theres a couple of things you need to that you cant do because they require a tech2 scan tool that the gm dealers have.That would be to do a audiable actuator check which you command the pcm to buzz each actuator while you listen for the actautor to buzz.Then whats called a step pressure test Which you hook up the pressure gauge and the computer will command the pressures to different pressures.The commanded pressure has to be within 10psi of the commanded pressures.That tests the valve bodies abilites to command the pressures that the pcm is sending to the valve body.

Is one option to get a new PCM. I have seen them on ebay. If I purchase a PCM that is for my engine, do I have to do anything to it once I have it other then simply install it into the car?

Or am I wasting my money and need to take my car to the dealership. How much do these tests cost from the dealer (ballpark)?

If you replaced the pcm you would have to probably relearn the pass lock sensor no big deal.It sounds like the valve body working the oringal one that you repaired bassed on the pressure readings with the fuse in and out and the car in park.It looks to like the pressure isnt being control by the pcm correctly when putting it in reverse and drive from your pressure readings.It code be a pcm or wiring issue within the connector going to your valve body.Without diagnoses were just guessing.As far as diagnoses at the dealership its going to be 1-2hrs diagnoses times shop labor rate.

I have replaced the pcm and know the car will not start. You wrote:

If you replaced the pcm you would have to probably relearn the pass lock sensor no big deal.

So how do I relearn the pass lock sensor? Is this something I can do or do I have to take the car to a dealer?

I found the passlock procedure online and the car now starts.

Here are my results with the new PCM.

Here are my readings with a 600 psi gauge and the original valve body and new PCM.

p - 50 psi
r - 240 psi - no slam
n - 50 psi
d - 120 psi - no slam
3 - 120 psi - no slam
2 - 120 psi - no slam

Test drive:

The first time I put the car in drive and went down the road it shifted into 2nd and 3rd (no slam), then it revved high rpm's and would not shift into 4th.

I came to a complete stop and starting going again and the car revved in high rpm's and would not shift into 2nd.

So as it stands right now the car will shift into reverse with no slam. The car will go into drive with no slam but will not shift into 2nd. The pressure gauge reads between 100 - 120 psi from putting my foot on the gas and then reaching high rpm's.

Also, when I put the car in reverse I her buzzing and then the car goes into reverse (buzzing stops) with 240 psi reading (no slam).

I put the car in drive, 2nd or 3rd and I hear the buzzing which never stops the whole time I am in that gear the gauge reads from 100 - 120 psi no higher no matter how many rpm's I rev to.

The car also does the non-stop buzzing in neutral.

Your pressures look good now so it shifts good except it wont go into 2nd gear?

Yes, it shifts into reverse good. There is no slam and I only hear the actuator buzzing for a few seconds.

However, when I put the car into drive it will not shift into second. The actuator starts buzzing when I put the car into drive and it never stop buzzing.

Any thought? Is there anything I can check or try?

I got this out of the ATSG service manual.

Second Gear: At a predetermined point based on throttle
position, vehicle speed and temperature, the PCM will
command a shift into second gear by turning off the
2nd/Reverse actuator (Solenoid). When this occurs, oil
pressure is sent to apply the clutches in the 2nd/Reverse
clutch on the main shaft. This locks the 2nd/Reverse drive
gear to the main shaft which causes a ratio change (1.17 or
1.56) freewheeling the one-way clutch (The first clutch
drum remains applied but is ineffective with the one-way
clutch freewheeling).

Based upon what is says the PCM is not turning off the 2nd/Reverse solenoid. I have the transmission temp. sensor removed so that I can read the transmission pressure. Could this be causing the problem? Did I get a bad PCM? Do you think it could be something else?

Yes when there is no voltage going to the 2nd gear solenoid then 2nd gear clutch pack gets fluid pressure.Reverse doesnt have its own clutch pack or solenoid ao it uses 2nd gears.Does it even try to go into 2nd gear when the transmission is shifting thru the gears?Do you have a code P0732 second ratio error code setting?It should still shift into 2nd gear even with the transmission temp sensor unplugged.

Here are all the error codes.

P0113 - intake air temperature (IAT) - The air cleaner is disconnected
P0713 - automatic transmission fluid temperature (TFT) - The sensor is disconnected because of pressure gauge
P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect ratio
P0733 - Gear 3 incorrect (incorrect gear ratio detected)
P0734 - Gear 4 incorrect (incorrect gear ratio detected)

So it shifts from first to 3rd then 4th and skips shifting into 2nd?Do any of the gears slip?The pressures are looking good.Have you tried driving the car and having someone watch the pressures while you drive and the transmission shifts?

That is not correct. Here is exactly what it is doing.

I start by disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery to clear out remembered shift points. I also clear and OBD codes.

I let the car warm up.

I go through the gears while in the garage.

Park is around 55 psi.

Reverse works great buzzes then goes to 240 psi no slam.

Neutral 55 psi with non-stop buzzing.

Drive 2nd 3rd is around 100 psi with non-stop buzzing.

Now I road test the car.

I back out of garage reverse drops to 55 psi buzzes and goes to 240 psi (no slam).

I am on the street. I put the car in drive. It shifts into 2nd (no slam), it shifts into 3rd (no slam), when it should shift into 4th it DOES NOT it revs very high but WILL NOT shift into 4th.

I stop the car, then go again (second attempt to go thru the forward gears). With the gear selector in drive the car rapidly fluctuates between 80-100 psi but DOES NOT SHIFT ever.

I stop the car and then put gear selector into 2nd gear. When I put my foot on the gas (gear selector in 2nd) it will rapidly fluctuate between 80-100 psi and gets up to about 15 mph max, then when I take my foot off the gas it shoots up 240 psi. I step on the gas it goes down to 55 psi. I take my foot off the gas and it shoots up to 240 psi.

It will then keep repeating this cycle foot on the gas 55 psi, foot off the gas 240 psi.

80-100psi in drive is too low it should be around 130psi thats why it wont shift and in drive it shouldnt ever shoot up to 240psi that is for reverse only.So looks like we have a pressure issue.So this is the oringal valve body were dealing with correct?If so we need to split the valve body into two pieces and take apart the pressure regulator in the upoer half of the valve body.You have to be careful because the pressure regulator is spring loaded.So we need to face the pressue regulator bore towards the work bench when removing the retaining clip.Then you can see if the pressure regulator has scoring marks from stick any broken springs etc.

Yes, this is the original valve body. So does it appear to be a valve body issue, a PCM issue, a transmission issue or something else?

Its not going to be a transmission issue because the pressures are not right.You already replaced the pcm they dont go bad that often.I would check the pressure regulator and springs in the pressure regulator bore in the valve body.Thats what i check.Most of the issues with shifting etc is caused by a issue with the pressure regulator in the valve body.

Would I be better off in re-purchasing a valve body from the store that rebuilt them and inserted a sonnax sleeve. What are my options if I do take apart my valve body and find scoring marks or a broken spring? What if I find nothing?

The person that I purchased the sonnax sleeve valve body from (which I returned) has offered to go thru my valve body. Here is what he wrote:

The last valve body checked in good. I resold it and it worked fine for the next customer. I feel that you have a problem other than the valve body. I assume that you cannot drive your car. If you sent me your valve body, I will go through it and send it back to you at a cost much lower than what I list the ones on ebay for. If I don't find anything out of the ordinary it would only cost you two new gaskets, return shipping and a small labor charge, say $20.00 for a total around $50.00. Let me know. ken

Should I take him up on his offer or would I be better off getting a rebuilt valve body if it comes to that?

Your down to the wirng or the valve body i belive its in the valve body i would ake i apart and see what you can see.Before you go sending it off.Go to the sonnax website it tells you how to check the pressure regulator bore etc.

I took the valve body apart and found the following:

Neither of the two springs were broken.

The bore was good no scratches or out of shape.

I could not tell if the o-rings were worn.

I did the light test and saw no light in bore, bit I am not sure the did the test correctly.

I will start to look deeper into the wiring. So far I have not found anything, but I do not have a wiring diagram to help me.

Did you do the wet test on the valve body like the sonnax website shows you how to do?

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, my job kept me busy. I did the wet test and there was no leak past the pressure regulator bore. The wiring looks good but without any schematics I cannot be sure.

Any thoughts?

Take a look at the bulletine i posted bellow i think what could have happened was you had a valve body issue to begin with.But you could have also had the wires going to the valve body the copper wire inside the insullation broken.When you kept moving the wires around that was the straw that broke the camels back.Causing another issue to surface let me know what you find.I found a new connector for a good price online if you need one.
There is a TSB on this condition which is caused by a bad transaxle electrical connector as follows:

#01-T-09: Harsh Shifts, No Shifts, and/or No TCC Operation with Transaxle Releated DTCs Set - (Feb 13, 2003)














Subject:




Harsh Shifts, No shifts, and/or No TCC Operation with Transaxle Related DTCs Set (Replace Transaxle Connector and Harness)
















Models:




1994 - 2001 Saturn S-Series vehicles with automatic transaxles (RPO MP6 or MP7)




Due to normal powertrain vibration, the transaxle wiring may flex and cause a circuit to open inside wire insulation near transaxle connector. In some cases, insulation will look distorted at point of open circuit.


Perform procedure in this bulletin to replace transaxle connector (P/N 21024415).


Remove air inlet duct.












2.1.




Open clamp at throttle body














2.2.




Disconnect fresh air hose at air duct.














2.3.




Remove air cleaner housing cover and air duct.



Remove battery.

Remove battery tray.


Loosen transaxle electrical connector bolt and disconnect transaxle electrical connector.

Disconnect transaxle range switch connectors.
Important: A sewing "seam stripper" is an excellent tool for removing tape from a wire harness. It cuts the tape without damage to the wires under the tape.


Remove electrical tape from wiring harness from transaxle electrical connector to main engine harness approximately 20-25 cm [8-10 in.]).



Important: If wires are broken inside insulation, outside of insulation may appear to be thin in one area, stretched or discolored.


Visually inspect circuits associated with DTC. Inspect wires for damaged or deformed insulation from transaxle electrical connector to main engine harness (up to 25 cm [10 in.] away from connector).












•




If there is visual evidence of wire damage and the location of the open circuit can be identified, continue with next step.














•




If there is no evidence of wire damage, physically inspect each wire by sliding fingers along entire length of wire and feel for abnormalities or depressions.














-




If wire damage is located during physical inspection, continue with next step.














-




If no wire damage is located during physical inspection, continue to step 10.



















Important: When splicing in new connector, stagger crimp-and-seal connectors so they are not all in same location. Staggering crimp-and-seal connectors will allow for a better finished look.






Once location of open circuit is identified, replace transaxle connector in its entirety (all ten circuits) with replacement transaxle connector (P/N 21024415).












9.1.




Cut transaxle connector circuit branch within 38 mm (1.5 in.) of main harness to ensure any other possibly affected circuits are repaired. Discard transaxle connector.














9.2.




Remove insulation from ends of cut wires and new transaxle connector harness. Recommended strip length is 4.8 mm (3/16 in.) for 12-20 gauge wire and 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) for 22 gauge wire so it can be folded in half. Care must be used when stripping wire to prevent cutting the wire strands.


* Can be ordered through Delphi-Packard by calling 1-800-PACKARD (1-800-722-5273).

** Can be ordered through Saturn Special Tool Catalog. Found with J44020 Terminal Repair Kit.


















Important: For the wiring used in Saturn vehicles, it is recommended that only approved Packard Electric Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves (or equivalent) be used.

















9.3.




Using a Saturn-approved crimp and seal splice sleeve (found in terminal repair kit J44020), position stripped ends of wires in sleeve until wires hit stop.


9.4.
Hand crimp splice sleeve using correct jaws in Packard crimper (P/N 12085155) or appropriate crimping tool. Gently tug on wires to ensure they are secure before applying heat to seal sleeve.

I spent some time and went through as much of the wiring as I felt needed to be looked at to satisfy myself that the wires are good. I found nothing. I do not think that we have talked about this but I had already replaced the connector that plugs into the top of the valve body. When all this began I found that the line pressure actuator connector had shorted out. The valve body connector (pins associated with the line pressure circuit) was melted, the buss board was melted and the line pressure actuator was bad. So I purchased a new buss board, a new line pressure actuator and I went to the junk yard and got a new valve body connector which I sliced and soldered on to the main harness.

Is it possible that the connector I got from the junk yard is bad? Yes it is possible, but does it make sense? When I pull the trs lp fuse the car will shift in all gears with slam. This tells me that the connector is sending signals to the valve body. Also, it does not explain why the line pressure would be low when the trs lp fuse is connected.

However, if you feel that there is a chance that the connector is bad and that the bad connector can explain why the line pressure is low, then I will gladly purchase and install a new valve body connector.

Haven't heard from you in awhile - so I went ahead and order a new connector - I'll update you after I receive and install. I'm still thinking about getting a new valve body with sonnax

Iam sorry i dont know what happened some how i wasnt getting your emai alerts saying you posted a reply.I just saw you poped up on my unaswered donation questions.You have a very difficult problem and even more difficult trying to help you over the internet.This question is getting so long its getting hard to keep track in whats going on even.So where are we at as far as the car shifting any codes pressures in drive park reverse in park line pressure fuse pulled etc?

Its been a while since we talked so here is where I am at. I just installed a new from GM transaxle connector. After installing I tested the car and now no matter what gear I put the car in (drive, 1, 2 or reverse) it goes into reverse. However, I believe it is because of the valve body. I took off the valve body and did the leak test (there was no leak) so I think I must have put it back together wrong causing the reverse in all gears problem. Rather then messing with this valve body I am going to order a rebuilt Sonnax sleeved valve body. Before I took this valve body apart to do the leak test I was having the problem where it would not shift out of first due to low line pressure. So hopefully a Sonnax valve body will raise the pressure and fix all problems.

Just to be complete on my current state. The car will not go into park. Will go into neutral and all other gears act like reverse. Drive, 1, 2 car goes into reverse. Reverse car goes into reverse.

So before you changed the connector did it do the same thing?If it wont go into park the linkage to the manual valve is probably miss installed.

Are you talking internal to the valve body?

Let me give you a better answer. First question no it did not do the same thing. As far as the linkage are you referring to the internal linkage. The external linkage has never been touched.

When you remove or install a valve body you have to unhook the shift linkage from the manual valve on the valve body.Did you ever test the valve body after putting it back together before installing the brand new connector.

No I never tested it after I put it back together, so I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend. I'll let you know after I redo. Thanks

Your welocome keep me posted.

Okay, I have the car testable again and here are my results. In park around 50 psi. The car goes into reverse flawless pressure around 240 psi. When I put the car in drive the pressure is around 120-130 psi. Car shifts into second and drops to around 100 psi. Will not shift into 3rd.

I put the gear selector into 3rd and the would only move at high rpm, the pressure was around 100 psi. I then put it back into drive and it would no longer shift into second pressure was around 100 psi.

Therefore, it seems to me that I am not getting enough forward gear pressure. Would a sonnax sleeve valve body give me the pressure I need? What are your thoughts. Have I over looked something?

Sorry I forgot but I am getting codes 732, 733 and 734.

Which valve body is in the car now?Also i need you to check the pressure when the fluid is really hot like the cooling fan is ready to come on when you check it.I need pressure readings with the line pressure fuse in and with the line pressure out with it park?Also with the car shifted in reverse drive 3rd 2Nd at idle stopped.Also what did you find with the car not going into park and all the gears acting like reverse?

Which valve body is in the car now?

The original came with the car valve body.

Also i need you to check the pressure when the fluid is really hot like the cooling fan is ready to come on when you check it.I need pressure readings with the line pressure fuse in and with the line pressure out with it park?Also with the car shifted in reverse drive 3rd 2Nd at idle stopped.

Line Pressure with fuse:
Park - 40 psi
Reverse - 240 psi
Neutral - 40 psi
Drive - 100 psi
3 - 100 psi
2 - 240 psi

Line Pressure without fuse:
Park - 240 psi
Reverse - 240 psi
Neutral - 120 psi
Drive - 240 psi
3 - 240 psi
2 - 240 psi

Also what did you find with the car not going into park and all the gears acting like reverse?

When I installed the valve body I did not attach the gear selector linkage.