My car is acting like it wants to die, I need to know what could cause this?

I checked them with a multi meter. It does stall right when it's in gear. It's the same model as the original transmission. Yes, I checked all the fuses. I just figured out that I may have pinched the end of the connection between the transmission and the engine when putting it back together...could that be the problem?

The tcc and other gears when they lose power to them the tcc etc is engaged there electricaly off meaning no power there on.So yes that could be the problem keep posted after you repair the wires.

my wife has a 02 saturn sl1 we just had the fuel system flushed and serviced (got it back today). My question is this: Just recently it has started to stall after being driven awhile (15-20 min.) It will start right back up but then sputters like its out of gas. Thought it was the fuel so had that system serviced. still have same problem. The mechanic who did the work said that it could be the crankshaft positioning sensor. could this be the problem or is it something else. (*note it will act like this for about a day, then run good for about 2-3 days, then act up again) Any help I could get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

First of all thank u so much for ur donation it really helps to keep this web site going and answering everyones questions.have u ever had to hold ur gas pedal all the way to floor to start the car like it was flooded?does it always start right back up?how long does it sputter for after u restart the car?do u have any codes if u don't know could u please have it checked for codes.let me know what u find.

I had the car checked and there are no codes. Never had to floor it to start it. Yes it does start right back up and it will idle great for about 45 secs. thenit stalls again. today it happened and it took me 25mins to go 3 miles and then it just run fine and got me home.
One person told me it could be the crankshaft position sensor, but after some research here I'm hoping it could be the coolant temp sensor, and praying it's not the fuel pump.

I have seen alot of bad coolant temp sensors go bad and do all kinds of crazy stuff stalling out surging no starts over heating eratic idle all differnt kinds of stuff.there about 12 if u change it make sure u get a brass tipped one the plastic tip ones crack and leak into the connectors corroding it.I don't think it's the fuel pump I haven't seen many of the newer pumps go out.but I have seen te fuel filters cause the cars to run crazy.the filter has the fuel pressure regulator inside it.if u haven't changed the fuel filter I recomend it they should be changed every 100,000 by that time they get pretty clogged up.there expensive but at autozone I got mine for 30.the temp sensor is screwed into the head below where the upper hose is if u change it make sure the engine is cold and u will loose coolant.also check and make sure that the connector going to it isn't corroded if it is then u have to clean or replace it.it could also be ur crank sensor but with it not dieing long enough to test anything makes it hard to figure out if it's that.let me know what u find.

Thanks for all the help. I'll give the filter a shot and let you know.

Well I've changed the filter and, although what came out was as brown as mud, it wasn't the problem. Now I'm waiting for the car to cool down to change the coolant temp sensor. Let you know what happens. If this doesn't work I'll change the crankshaft position sensor. I'm trying to stay away from the fuel pump.

Sounds like u needed a new fuel filter anyways and it was time for one.when u change the coolant temp sensor make sure u check the connector to make sure it's not corroded.also checking the fuel pump would just be a matter of renting a fuel pressure gauge and seeing what the pressure is sounds like the problem is getting worse though from ur 25 mins to go 3 miles.what a trip that must have been well let me know what happens with coolant temp sensor.

1.9 L won't keep running. Starts fine, rev's a bit then quits. Stalls when coming to a stop. If I hold the idle up just a tiny bit, runs fine. Just changed oil, didn't help.
Thanks for your time.

Well I've changed the coolant temp sensor then had the coil packs checked and found one of those bad. replaced it. Car ran fine for about 20 mins. then "POW" RIGHT BACK AT IT. The only thing left, I think is the fuel pump. It's gotten to where after it stalls it will only stay running if I don't push the gas pedal. Once I do it stalls. If I don't, it will actually move at about 20 mph.
got any ideas?

First thing i want you to do is go to a auto part's store like auto zone and have them scan your car for code's.Let me know what code's you have.Also what is a idler arm that you hold to keep it running?Do you mean the throttle shaft on the throttle body?

[quote:1b68f77712="mokeybozo"]Well I've changed the coolant temp sensor then had the coil packs checked and found one of those bad. replaced it. Car ran fine for about 20 mins. then "POW" RIGHT BACK AT IT. The only thing left, I think is the fuel pump. It's gotten to where after it stalls it will only stay running if I don't push the gas pedal. Once I do it stalls. If I don't, it will actually move at about 20 mph.
got any ideas?[/quote:1b68f77712]
if ur only going like 20mph after it gets hot then I would go to the exhaust shop when it's acting up and have them check ur back pressure u could have a plugged cat and the next thing I would do is get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure to elminate possible a bad pump.let me know what u find.

Ok. PO506 Idle control lower than expected.
PO404 Exhaust gas recirc. circuit range performance

Just the 2 codes and the 'service engine soon' light came on this morning. Gets down the road "fine" above 40 mph.

Thanks again!

I would check the the hose that goes from your valve cover to your intake for being colasped or having a hole in it.If it does replace the hose.Also in the throttle body diagram item number 7 is your idle air control valve remove it and clean it with carb spray also clean the hole it goes in.There's a opening in the bottom of throttle body opening spray some carb spray in there with the idle air control valve out.Also you might to take off your egr valve and try cleaning that too.

I have exactly the same problem, I changed all 3, Fuel filter, crankshaft pos sensor & temp sensor. It's nickle & dime'ing me to death any other ideas?

Do you have any codes? its sounds like the computer might be going bad or a bad ignition switch.

Here is a guide and a location so you can check it out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If the wiring is good, grounds and power try a used unit to see if that works.

Please run this test and get back to us so we can keep helping you.

Cheers, Ken

have a 1996 saturn very hard to start and when it does it runs very rough for about thirty seconds and then dies car has been sitting for a while but put in fresh gas where and battery is hot also cranks normal. Where might I start looking first. Thanks

The battery shouldn't get hot unless you are cranking the engine for a long time. As far as the engine, it could be several things. Has the check engine light come on?

How long has it been sitting?If its not bad gas you could have a bad coolant temp sensor and connector fuel pump issue which i kinda doubt.Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?

car has been sitting for year and a half and I have a multimeter

Wow a year and half how did you get all the old gas out?How much old gas was in the tank?Dont tell me you just added new gas to the old gas and hoped for the best?

All old gas out of tank and new fuel put in, you can hear fuel pump come on (have not tested pressure yet) sprayed starting fluid in TB and car started for a few seconds and died tried to restart without success. Plan to put in more fuel tomorrow, check pump pressure and check filter also injectors and I have replaced all plugs and checked all wires all where good.

Did you make sure all the wires were correctly routed on the coil towers and not mixed up?That would cause a not start.Also try this after trying to start it again if your unsucessful try holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor while trying to start it.Also do you have a multimeter?I suspect you could have a bad coolant temp sensor and possible a bad connector to it.Keep me posted on what you find.