Rough idle at start up, loss of power, misfires?

It does sounds like you have a bad ignition coil which can come and go here is a video of the job being done and a guide to help fix it.

https://youtu.be/iDgXwKA-IIc

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down these guides and report back.

My car lost power on the highway and I was forced to pull over. After I turned it off it wouldn't start and my radiator was steaming. My neighborhood mechanic says i have a blown gasket. What should I do? Im worried that i might have to replace the engine When I look back on it. It had been losing power for a about a week or two before it forced me to pull over. I just started driving and don't know much about cars.

It sounds like the engine was over heating. Check to make sure the coolant is full. If it isn't starting, check to make sure you are getting spark and fuel. One will be missing. Focus on that circuit.

I have a 2001 Ford Taurus that runs perfectly in the winter. When spring comes and it heats up, I turn on the A/C. The A/C works great, it provides plenty of cold air. The problem is that when the A/C is on, the engine is sluggish. By sluggish I mean the car seems to lose power. It feels like the car is switching gears, but it isn't. When the car is stopped and idle, everything is fine. The problem only occurs at around 35+ mph. It is most noticeable on the highway in 5th gear. It gets so bad that I run without the A/C, because it feels like I'm going to kill the transmission or something. It can't be the transmission though, because it runs fine when the A/C is off. If it gets really hot and I need A/C, I'll turn it on while I'm going down hill and turn it off when going up hill, because the extra load on the engine when going up hill will trigger the problem.

Thanks in advance for any advice received.

check the mapp sensor, as this sensor measures load and change in elevation. the a/c compressor does put a load on the engine, and this is normal, but it should not affect engine performance, to a noticeable degree. , also when the the extra load from the a/c pulls on the engine, the idle is automatically supposed to increase slightly, this is why theys say the airconditioning uses up your gas, because it does. so you will want to check the idle air control valve also to find out why the idle doesnt adjust properly, it could just be that the valve is dirty. and the bore that it sits in is dirty and doesnt allow it to adjust properly.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_tune_up.htm

car idles fine, rev up at idle fine, when put in gear wont go past 25 mph's motor starts to bog down like its starving for fuel, wont kill or die, just wont develop speed

I would say you have one of two problems. First, have you checked fuel pump pressure? Second, have you checked for vacuum leaks (especially around the intake)?

Just a guess, but I'm thinking catalylic converter stopped up. Used to happen on mid 60's cars when baffle got loose in muffler.

Shakes or Wobbles problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl

My car shakes and it loses power when driving. Takes a while before it will reach normal speeds on flat roads & will lose power when driving uphill. Service engine soon light has came on because of this.

Few things need to be checked
1st step should be reading what do you have for codes
check it for tune up and check fuel pressure
scan for codes and let me know what you have

2001 Ford Taurus mileage: 85,000. The engine seems to lose power when it gets hot (stop & go traffic). The cooling fan seems to turn on only when the engine is too hot. The engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. It will very slowly pick up and move the car. I already changed the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, the automatic throttle controller (it is linked to the throttle) and sensor on the throttle body. (I think it is it a temp sensor) I don’t know if the EGR is working or if it is related to the hesitation. The vacuum hose leading to the EGR does not have vacuum present when the car is first started. I have not checked to see if vacuum is present when the engine is hot. How do I test this one? Thanks for any help you can give me. This has been happening for last two weeks. My mechanic replaced the fuel tank with pump about five weeks ago with a recycled tank The old pump had failed. How many sensors are there in this engine and what can do to check them?

Check the catalytic converter to make sure it is not “plugged” or restricted. Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system. An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Was driving down highway and car just shut off. Had it towed. Replaced alternator. Started right up. But dash lights and head lights flicker. Car warms up then dies again. Is this the battery, ignition module or what. Please help asap

first if you replaced alternator check belt and tensioner as well as recommended replacement is 60,000mi. then clean battery terminal ends. that may cause security to go out once you to that and car won't start. so see our link for reset
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My 2001 ford taurus has no power, it wont go over 15 mph. At an idle it is chugging and then dies

Start by checking the exhaust system for restriction.

I already took out the O2 sensors and it still ran the same.

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and see what happens

Recently purchased from local ad, so I knew I'd be turning the wrench soon. Good deal, but I digress.

The following section covers briefly, the details of the tune-up.

Car shifts fine but w/SES.

OBDII
> O2 Sensor One - Bank One - Codes read on OBDII to indicate running lean. Swapped that with what I presumed to be a defective. It worked for a week, without SES. Now it's back to a low idle w/SES.

OBDII resulted with same! Swapped the O2 again. Also, bought new spark plugs and sp wires. Installed. Engine light back on but now throwing "Coil" code. I don't recall the exact code, but coil pack was suggested by the clerk.
Now it seems that it gets little air/fuel to the engine which results in a very slow acceleration. Slow! Because if I blast the gas it will kick. Hard vibrations during idle. Series of unfortunate events.

Things I've tried:
I've tried blowing a thick cloud of smoke into a vacuum line (engine off), but no apparent leaks or the smoke wasn't thick enough.

I used CRC MAF Cleaner per instruction of the container.. no change.
New air and fuel filters.

W/engine on, I systematically removed the rubber boot from each post of the coil pack, to check for arc and change of rpm. Only 2 arced and the same two were the only ones to make a significant impact on the rpm. There's also a weak backfire when the engine is under load.

So, what other than the coil pack could it be? Unseen vacuum leak? Bad fuel?

Also, why the sudden outbreak in dying parts? Bad PCM?

Thanks.

OK, first thing you need to give us code numbers, not a description of the code.
If you have P0171 and P0174, the 0/2 sensor is almost never the cause.

It sound like you have a vacuum leak and you were on the right track using smoke but you actually need a smoke machine. Improvising just won't be good enough to find the leak.

These things are notorious for sucking hole through large vacuum connectors in tight places at or under the manifold. The holes open up when vacuum is present and close when it is not so the smoke needs some pressure behind it.

Question was 'what else could it be other than a coil pack?' It was the coil pack, but I will check for vacuum leaks just to be pro-active. After changing the coil pack, it runs like new. The O2 sensor is still holding up as well. Turns out that the first one I bought was simply defective. I did reply with the codes, but I don't see that reply here. Thanks for your help.

OK WHAT THE PR0BLEM WITH THE LOSSING POWER & LIKE NOT GETTING NO GAS ARE WILL NOT ACCELERATE AND ACTING LIKE IT WONT TO CUT OFF. I SHUT THE CAR OFF AND START BACK UP IT WILL RUN FINE. WHAT IS THAT PROBLEM
THIS IS A ON GOING PROBLEM

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

why does 2001 ford taurus lose power

Do you have check engine light on ?
scan for codes
check fuel pressure and check it for tune up

driving home last night and all of a sudden ad a loss of power and couldnt go over 20 mph have checked the fuel rail and is ok, and plugs and wires have been checked also

Any codes? Is check engine light on or blinking? Check the cataltic converter for rattles, it may have broken up inside, and pieces of it lodged in the exhuast system.

[quote="merlin2021"]Any codes? Is check engine light on or blinking? Check the cataltic converter for rattles, it may have broken up inside, and pieces of it lodged in the exhuast system.
No, no codes no check engine lights at all. but thanks too late i too off the catalitic converters and threw them away that was the main problem with the loss of power. i have always had more problems with those catalitic converters than what they are "sopost to be good for the enviornment" they suck and u dont need them

Car lost power does not go over twenty mph. Back pressure transducer and the EGR vacuum solenoid hoses were popped out of place put them back on started the vehicle and pop out again.

check for a clogged converter, you can try checking vacuum at intake if 15" or below suspect that. there is also a tool that goes inplace of O2 sensor to check for a clogged converter. are there no codes?

I am working on getting codes.

if it is a 420 or 430 codes it is a bad converter or two.

I have a 2000 Taurus SE with 123,000 miles and only ~40 - 50% of the time when I accelerate hard likle to pass or to get on a highway from an on-ramp, the car seams to stall or lose ALL power. At first I thought it was a problem with the transmision not wanting to down shift, but recently I have heard a squealing (it only squeals when this issue occurs) coming from under the hood and my RPMs drop for that 1/2 second power loss. Last summer I replaced all of the spark plugs and tried to clean the MAS. But this problem only came about in the past 6-8 months. My last transmision flush and filter change was ~75,000 - 80,000 ago.
Any help would be appreciated.

Any check engine light? Could be the MAF acting up again, I personally havent had much long term luck with cleaning them.

No, there has not been a check engine light on this for over two years! I am almost wordering if it is not electrical? What gets me is it's so sudden and the total loss of power, it's not like the transmission saggs or the gas pedal feels soft, I litteraly look like a bobble head doll when it does this. And it's not just one loss. It may hickup once be fine for another second that do it twice, then be ok again then for t seconds then it will drop again.

I have a 2000 Ford Taurus w/101000 miles. It has seemed like it was missing for about a month or two. I had a guy test the alternator with a tester that had three lights and was pretty old, he hooked it directly to the alternator and it showed the regulator in the alternator was bad. I took it to another guy who hooked up a newer tester to the battery and it said that everything was fine with the alternator and battery. Another guy tested it by hooking up to the battery and he said he thought it was a driveability issue and there was a problem with a relay somewhere. I dont know if its the relay in the alternator or what the problem might be and I keep getting different answers. When I have the heater or a/c on and it is idling it seems like it is losing power and sometimes it shuts off, but starts right back up. When I put the windows up and down or use the power locks, or turn on the heater when driving the lights dim slightly for a brief second and then it returns to normal.

Check battery and battery terminals
remove clean and tighten
should also have the alternator checked using a newer machine as its more advance and can detect internal failure
alternator should be checked at different stages
with and without load

[quote:d2eb063415="BMRFIXIT"]Check battery and battery terminals
remove clean and tighten
should also have the alternator checked using a newer machine as its more advance and can detect internal failure
alternator should be checked at different stages
with and without load[/quote:d2eb063415]

Thank you for your help. I had it tested at autozone and advance auto and it says the battery and alternator are fine. This morning i turned the heater on and my interior lights are still dimming. Battery terminals were cleaned and tightened. I may have to just have someone hook it up to a computer unless you have anymore suggestions. Do you think it could be a relay? How would I test that?

I doubt very much to be a relay
I would suspect a bad diode inside the alternator or bad ground
I would have it checked by local repair shop at this point
with all the respect to the gays at auto part store they dont have all what you need to check it correctly