Engine Overheating?

2001 FORD TAURUS
160,000 MILES • 3.0L • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
Avatar
KJBURNSY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
My temperature indicator always stayed at a constant position (about half way up). The other day, for no particular reason, I happened to glance down at the gauge and it was almost at the H level (all the way up). I opened the hood and noticed the reservoir was empty and there was green coolant all over the passenger side area on all parts around the reservoir. I bought a gallon of coolant and poured it in the reservoir. It took almost a full gallon less about a cup or two. No water just coolant, as it is cold here in NJ, and I had been topping off the reservoir with water in the warm months, because I had no coolant available and I didn't need to worry about freezing.) So, I thought maybe there might be something frozen in the cooling system causing a blockage. I let it sit for a few moments and then took it for a drive. The gauge stayed normal for a few minutes and then started creeping its way back to the H level. I pulled over and noticed the reservoir looked almost empty. I was close to home so I drove it home and then let it run and looked under the hood. The plastic reservoir was full and coolant was "forcing" itself out of the sealed pressurized cap on the reservoir. It was bubbling out at a very fast rate. I thought radiator, water pump, or blockage in the system somewhere. It was dark and I had a flashlight. I was ready to close the hood, when I noticed this type of metal stringy material near the air cleaner system toward the driver side of the engine. I looked at it and grabbed it and pulled it, and the material that I managed to pull off looked like belt material reinforced with bands of some sort of strings of metal. So, I thought it must be a belt that operates the water pump. Trouble is, everywhere I look on the Internet, says the main serpentine belt drives just about everything in the engine, including the water pump. So, my question is, what is the material I pulled off that looked like part of a belt and is that the cause of the engine overheating and bubbling out of the cap on the plastic reservoir? I didn't have a chance to look at it today in the daylight, but hope to work on it tomorrow. I need to replace whatever that "belt" type thing is, and find out why the system is overheating. (A side note: for about a month, I have noticed as I pull into a parking lot, and look at the road where I pulled in, a line of liquid in spots about the size of a silver dollar spaced about 5-6 inched apart. In other words, something was leaking out slowly as I drove, but didn't notice it until I would park and see these spots as if something was dripping slowly out as the engine is on.) When I am parked and the engine is off and cool, there is no puddle under the area where the plastic reservoir is, on the ground. The images are just a piece of what I pulled out, not the full size of the belt or whatever it is. Can you guys figure that out?
Feb 10, 2015 at 10:50 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
CARADIODOC
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 34,306 POSTS
Picture didn't show up. If that's part of the belt, the water pump is likely slipping and a new belt is all that's needed. The coolant will build up pressure to 15 psi, then it will push into the reservoir, and that can overflow and make a mess. You have to check the pulleys though too. If any pulley is sloppy, turned, or tipped, it will shred the new belt the same way.

Check this guide out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Overheating will also push coolant into the reservoir where it can overflow. That is often due to a leaking cylinder head gasket. Your mechanic can do a quick chemical test for that. The test involves drawing air from the radiator through a glass cylinder with two chambers partially-filled with a special dark blue liquid. If combustion gases are present, the liquid will turn bright yellow. A leaking head gasket will cause overheating too because the combustion gases will pool under the thermostat. Thermostats have to be hit with hot liquid to open. Hot air won't do it.
Feb 10, 2015 at 11:24 PM
Avatar
KJBURNSY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes, they are part of a belt of some sort, but not the main serpentine belt thats on the passenger side. I looked everywhere on the net, and could find no reference to a separate water pump belt. Is there actually a belt there where I described closer to the driver side? It does have a plastic rounded cover / housing over it, it seems, to prevent anyone or anything from getting caught in it. In the daylight I will look tomorrow and see if it's a belt and see how difficult it will be to put a new one on. Also, I will remember about the coolant and the combustion gases. I just don't know why I have not seen anything mentioned anywhere about a smaller separate belt, away from the large serpentine belt. It's definitely all ripped apart and not causing whatever it is connected to to operate. Thank you very much. I am going to the Social Services tomorrow to get General Disability assistance because I cannot walk. If they approve it, I will make sure I come back and leave you a donation soon, because you provide an invaluable service, and I'm sure most of the people do not donate, which they should if they have the money. Take care.
Feb 11, 2015 at 12:20 AM
Advertisement
Avatar
CARADIODOC
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 34,306 POSTS
You're a wonderful human being!

I use the Rock Auto web site for reference a lot. They DO show a smaller belt for the water pump, but I didn't look if there's a difference between the single and twin-cam engines.

The pictures showed up. I can't say for sure, but it kind of looks like the belt is dry-rotted. That would cause if to break apart in strands like in the first picture. Shredding on the side is caused by a tipped or turned pulley that forces the belt to ride against the lip on the side of a pulley. A single break is caused by a sudden shock from a locked-up pulley, usually the AC compressor.

Maybe you can sew the pieces back together!?
Feb 11, 2015 at 1:18 AM
Avatar
KJBURNSY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
hahaha!! This is just a smal piece of what I could pull off. SO, there IS a separate belt over by the driver side then! I wonder why I couldn't find any mention of it anywhere, not even parts places like auto zone and advance.

I'll just cut the bad one, not much left to cut I would gather, but getting the new one on is a different matter. They didn't leave any breathing room in those big Vulcan Duratec 6 cyl 24 Valve DOHC 3.0L EFI engines. When that thing kicks into OD on the highway, it's a rocket! You should have seen the de-assembly / assembly process I had to go through to put a new brake booster and master cylinder on it!! And a new blower motor for the fan,heat and A/C under the passenger side dash was just as bad!Thanks for your help. Keep up the great work. Going to Social services now.

HAVE A GREAT DAY!
Feb 11, 2015 at 4:17 AM
Avatar
CONNIE43
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
my car a 2001 ford tarus is overheating what could be the problem? I have replaced the water pump replaced the thermostat heater core isn't leaking runs okay for awhile then overheats. fans are working could it be the catlytic converter its the original one
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
STRAILER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 53,854 POSTS
Hello,


It sounds like you have a blown head gasket while is causing the overheating condition you have described, Here is a guide to check the head gasket failure to be sure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Everything under the hood is brand new, all except the radiator, transmission, and bottom half of the engine. New heads, gaskets, water pump,thermostat, hoses, reservoir, cap, ext. Ext.. We have used an "air lift" system to vacuum the air out after emptying the coolant, then refilled. Still running hot to the point of overheating if you let it keep. Multiple new thermos,and 2nd water pump, ext. I am at a loss. People are saying something about "air locked system". Any ideas?
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
WRENCHTECH
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 20,761 POSTS
Why would you not change the radiator after a head gasket failure? That should be automatic unless you found another confirmed cause for the failure.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Two certified mechanics gave me their word that it did not have to be replaced.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
2 certified mechanics gave me their word that it didn't have to be replaced.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
WRENCHTECH
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 20,761 POSTS
They have no way to know that. They cannot see inside of it.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
ALEXANDREA NICKOLE BLACKMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you! I am grabbing a new radiator now, burping my system in the morning and I will have it on the road tomorrow afternoon.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
WRENCHTECH
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 20,761 POSTS
The vacuum fill should be sufficient to get all the air out of the system. I never have a problem using that.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
QUBE34
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 114000 miles

The fans that cool the radiator switch on when the AC or heater are turned on, but fail to turn on and stay on automatically or stay on after the car is off causing the radiator to stay hot and the antifreeze to steam out. I replaced the ETC sensor and thermostat. The fuses have been switched around and everything works there. Is there another sensor in the radiator that helps it turn on?
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
When key off fan should stop, if have an overheating problem have to check for the reason
Very common for the plastic bottle on the side to have a crake in it, pressure will cause a leak
Bad coolant system cap will do the same too
Hope I understood your question correctly if not please can you elaborate
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
QUBE34
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
[quote:8326195bf8="BMRFIXIT"]When key off fan should stop, if have an overheating problem have to check for the reason
Very common for the plastic bottle on the side to have a crake in it, pressure will cause a leak
Bad coolant system cap will do the same too
Hope I understood your question correctly if not please can you elaborate[/quote:8326195bf8]

Presssure check was done and there are not leaks in the tanks. Is there another sensor that would cause the fans not to turn on? They don't turn on while driving either unless the AC is on or the heater is turned on. What sensor or sensors cause the fans to turn on?
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
should check for codes if not dont it yet Coolant temperature sensor and coolant temp sender They located rear of engine by the thermostat housing coolant temp sensor activate the fan when needed


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic1_663.jpg

May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SHAWING66
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 30000 miles

I have a leak in my overflow tank at the seal, not the cap. There is no crack that I can find so I assume it is the rubber seal. I am not having any heating issues but the car has been garage kept most of it's life until recently hence the low mileage (2001 30000miles) so I'm assuming rubber is begining to dryrot. I would like to try and seal before I replace the entire tank. The leak is above the coolant line so it comes out as a vapor and radiator sealer will not work. How about epoxy, gorilla glue, or silicon sealer? Thoughts?

- cheers
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
No rubber in or on the tank
you have the tank and the cap
very ,very common for the tank to have a hair crack in it causing the leak
take it out and inspect
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SHAWING66
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
[quote:ccf2b6d24f="BMRFIXIT"]No rubber in or on the tank
you have the tank and the cap
very ,very common for the tank to have a hair crack in it causing the leak
take it out and inspect[/quote:ccf2b6d24f]

well however the 2 sections of the tank are connected( and there are 2 sections with my tank) there is a leak between them. is there any specific epoxy or other sealant that you recommend?
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
Dont waist your money and time on epoxy and or other replace the tank it should be available after market for less than $40 at the dealer for about $ 60


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_fan_9.jpg

May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
DHARTDALE38
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 105000 miles

Steam from antifreeze bellows out when you come to a stop from the front of the motor for a few seconds. The engine never overheats, and the antifreeze level is rarley low. You can smell it well too. like it also is up in the heater core. but only sometimes. Any anwsers to this problem.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
MHPAUTOS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

Thank you for the donation.

There is a good chance that you have a coolant leak, it may only be Small but enough to cause some concern, i would get the cooling system pressure tested hot with the heater on, this will locate any minor external leaks, also make sure that the pressure cap is checked as well, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
AMCNEIL2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 130000 miles

I have replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator and the car still runs hot. I can put coolant in it and it runs fine for about ten minutes and then all of the coolant is gone and the reservoir is empty and the car begins to rattle, not steam. Dont know where the water is going.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
Check oil
Check and suspect headgasket
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
HOMER1967
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 875 POSTS
there's really only one way to know for sure what's going on and that is to perform a leak down test. that will answer all your questions.let me know what happens.jeff
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
CNMBOVEE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 108000 miles

On the upper hose connection to the overflow tank is a tee shaped connector that is broken. What is the name of that tee shaped connector part? ('01 Taurus with a 3.0 L DOHC engine
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
I think you are looking at the upper radiator hose and is all as one piece
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BUBBY48230
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
The part you are referring to has no name. It is clamped on the front end, has a small hose entering from the top and has a special connection on the back side. You cannot buy this part. You need to purchase the complete hose system from a dealer and replace the entire unit.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
CARLHARGROVE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 111500 miles

I want to drain and flush the engine coolant
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 16,542 POSTS
Hello and thanks for donating


Make sure that the engine has not been running for awhile, and is cool. If the engine has been running the fluid will be very hot and under extreme pressure, and could injure you when you open the radiator cap.
Find the drain valve on the radiator to drain it. The drain valve should be on the bottom of the radiator. Drain the fluid into a bucket, do not allow it to run onto the ground. Once you have drained the radiator completely, close the drain valve.
You are now ready to install a back flush kit. These kits are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at your local auto parts store. Follow the instructions on the back of your particular kit. In summary, you will have to cut the heater inlet hose going to the top of the engine. That is where you will install the T section provided in the kit into the coolant line. Slip both ends of the hose onto this fitting and tighten the clamps that came with the kit. Now, you can connect your garden hose to this fitting.
Place the diverter that came with the kit into the opening on the top of the radiator. This is where the water and coolant will pour out from when begin flushing the coolant system. A hose or tube will be useful to direct the water into a bucket.
Start the engine, turn the heater on high and turn on the garden hose. The coolant should begin circulating through the engine and coming out through the diverter on the top of the radiator. Continue this process until clean water begins to come out the top. This should only take several minutes.
Turn off the engine and garden hose. Next, drain the radiator again into a bucket and close the drain valve when you are done.
Now it is time to add the new anti freeze. Pour the entire contents of the anti freeze bottle into the empty radiator and fill it until coolant pours out of the neck. Screw the radiator cap back on and the job is complete. Don't forget to screw the cap back on for the T fitting you installed also.
Take a quick test drive to ensure that everything is working properly.
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
CARLHARGROVE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
[quote:4e4e51c506="bluelightnin6"]Hello and thanks for donating


Make sure that the engine has not been running for awhile, and is cool. If the engine has been running the fluid will be very hot and under extreme pressure, and could injure you when you open the radiator cap.
Find the drain valve on the radiator to drain it. The drain valve should be on the bottom of the radiator. Drain the fluid into a bucket, do not allow it to run onto the ground. Once you have drained the radiator completely, close the drain valve.
You are now ready to install a back flush kit. These kits are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at your local auto parts store. Follow the instructions on the back of your particular kit. In summary, you will have to cut the heater inlet hose going to the top of the engine. That is where you will install the T section provided in the kit into the coolant line. Slip both ends of the hose onto this fitting and tighten the clamps that came with the kit. Now, you can connect your garden hose to this fitting.
Place the diverter that came with the kit into the opening on the top of the radiator. This is where the water and coolant will pour out from when begin flushing the coolant system. A hose or tube will be useful to direct the water into a bucket.
Start the engine, turn the heater on high and turn on the garden hose. The coolant should begin circulating through the engine and coming out through the diverter on the top of the radiator. Continue this process until clean water begins to come out the top. This should only take several minutes.
Turn off the engine and garden hose. Next, drain the radiator again into a bucket and close the drain valve when you are done.
Now it is time to add the new anti freeze. Pour the entire contents of the anti freeze bottle into the empty radiator and fill it until coolant pours out of the neck. Screw the radiator cap back on and the job is complete. Don't forget to screw the cap back on for the T fitting you installed also.
Take a quick test drive to ensure that everything is working properly.[/quote:4e4e51c506]
May 3, 2017 at 12:06 PM (Merged)
Avatar
TXGAL30
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 164000 miles

I have a 2001 Ford Tarus. It started to overheat Monday and Tuesday so I turned on the defrost and it cooled down. This morning I checked the antifreeze level in the reservoir and it was bone dry. I put about a gallon of water and about half of the 50/50 antifreeze in it. I drove to work, no overheating but about 4 hours later I checked it and it looks like paste on the inside of the lid and the liquid looks like muddy water. What should I do?
May 3, 2017 at 12:07 PM (Merged)
Avatar
DOCFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 18,828 POSTS
Coolant system flush seems in order also may consider a thermostat. Check that cooling fans are operating.
May 3, 2017 at 12:07 PM (Merged)
Avatar
TIG614
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Automatic 113,00 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
We have a car that overheats.We have replaced the thermostat,radiator cap and had it pressure tested. Checked for water in the oil. The ac cuts in and out as far as cooling.It gets down the road and the temp starts rising and the coolant boils out of the radiator cap.We had the clamp tightened also.It still runs hot. We were told it was the radiator by someone that works on cars for a living. But my mecahic says he pressure btested it and says no.How do you narrow this problem down?I see where you can test the fan, but I believe this all works.How do know about the heads and and other problems caused by this.
May 3, 2017 at 12:08 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SERVICE WRITER
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 9,123 POSTS
IF the fins are plugged on the radiator or the flow is restricted in the radiator, a pressure test would show nothing other than a leak.
May 3, 2017 at 12:08 PM (Merged)
Avatar
HMONAHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100000 miles

Hi I have a 2001 Taurus that recently has been having temperature fluctuations. It will blow warm air and then cold and cycle through, although usually settles on a lukewarm air after driving for a long time. The repair shop thinks I blew the head gasket, but I have done that before and then never gotten warm air again. Since having it at the shop and them doing a compression test on it, I am getting hot air all the time. Also the temperature guage always sits at the center of the normal range. Any thoughts?
May 3, 2017 at 12:08 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
Its an indication of low coolant check coolant and add as needed
do a coolant system pressure test and also would check headgasket
too
May 3, 2017 at 12:08 PM (Merged)
Avatar
SASHLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Engine Cooling problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 111000 miles

My Car recently over heated. I found a leak and was able to remove the part. However I cannot find the part and any of the local parts stores. I would like to order on line but I do not know what the name of the part is.

It is located on the upper hose, it conects to hoses together and has a third connector to connect the overflow line to it. It is right next to the battery on the top radiator line.

What is this part called?
May 3, 2017 at 12:08 PM (Merged)
Avatar
BMRFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 19,053 POSTS
its an upper radiator hose

need manual CHECK IT @
https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm
May 3, 2017 at 12:08 PM (Merged)