Codes P1457 and P1456?

Awesome, will get it in a few days and give it a go!

Hey there! I did attempt to upgrade the scanner to the 2007 but the computers are not recognizing the scanner despite purchasing a few retro items to accommodate the update. The internet upgrade doesn’t seem to function either. Do you know of an alternative way to get it to update?

It's been a while, but I seem to recall that to do the updates you loaded the software onto the computer, then updated the application on the computer then used that to update the memory card using a card reader. Then you plugged the memory into the tool and used the card to activate it.

Thank you! I will give it another go. If I'm unable to, I will probably bite the bullet and get a more modern scanner.

Hi,

I noticed we haven't heard from you for a few days. Have you had any luck? We're interested in knowing.

Thanks,

Joe

Hey there! I did try it out again and was unable to get it to function. For some reason the USB doesn’t send down stream and up stream despite having a cord from that era.

I believe my scanner was before the memory card version. The 2.0 version of the scanner I have has an ethernet to RS232 cord. Maybe I needed the 3.0 version to upgrade to the Asian 2007 card.

I’ve since had the valves adjusted for the random misfires and have not got a CEL back. Not sure if that could have been related to the P1457. I’ll keep updates coming!

The memory card should be under the cover on the left side of the tool. It is a large compact flash card. Do not try to format it. Instead, you use a card reader and the software on the disc to load the card. You should be able to go to 2008 on the system 2 and 3.

Hey there! I Had returned the unit before the window to do so closed. I only had a month. I went on ahead and went for a more modern scanner. I have a 2025 LAUNCH Creader Elite V2.0 for Honda and Acura.

It did detect the P1457, and also let me do the active solenoid tests. I attached a video but here is what happened for each test:

1. PCS(CPV) On, CVS On And BPS On - FTP Sensor value fluctuated. It almost filled like the engine was bogging down while all were engaged.
2. PCS(CPV) Off, CVS On And BPS Off - FTP Sensor fluctuated slightly. No noticeable difference in idling.
3. PCS(CPV) Off, CVS Off And BPS On - FTP Sensor stayed steady. No noticeable difference in idling

I’m uncertain what the other metrics meant, but the check engine light has not fully come back on.

Thanks for your continued help!

Well looking at the video and the tests I would say the issue isn't the purge or vent solenoids or the canister. However, there are other parts that you can't really use a scan tool to test. Like the fuel filler neck, the pump and the lines. That first test showed that the purge will open and pull a vacuum (that is why the voltage dropped on the FTP) It also showed that your vent solenoid seems to work. The bogging was the very rich fuel mix being pulled through the purge system. The last test will normally only show anything if you wait a while as it should show the FTP rising from the fuel in the tank warming up. I believe the solenoids and valves are not the issue. That leaves things like a small leak around the fuel pump, a small leak in something like the filler neck or vent line. Testing those would need a smoke machine and a quite place to work with no breeze. There are a few of them you can build out of a paint can and a BBQ regulator if you want to DIY. You don't get the fancy features, but they do work. The hard part is usually finding the tiny leak.

Thanks for the information! For the smoke machine, I had found this DIY video:

https://youtu.be/VvcFGzAyaXE?si=qmBozPzsL4WIWCbY

Would that work or would I need something more powerful like this one or a DIY like this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2JV8YDP/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_5?smid=A39QUDLVDNA8EY&th=1


Also, once I get it, where should I insert the smoke from?

I've actually built one like this as a test and it worked very well for basic leaks. The big thing is to not use a lot of pressure. The propane regulator will drop the pressure down to less than one half PSI. which will not hurt anything. Then for testing you can inject from the line the purge valve connects to. One big safety item. Regardless of which unit you use, turn off the power to the coil first, then disconnect the hose and shut off the air last.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Np_duzsaZxI

Perfect! When I apply the smoke should on the hose from the side or bottom of where the purge valve connects? Thank you for the safety tip as well!

You want it on the line that goes back to the tank and other parts. That will allow for smoke to fill all the lines and the tank and filler neck. One thing I have done is add a few drops of UV dye into the mineral oil. Then use a bright light and a UV light to see if you can find the leak. It can take a bit. Another trick you can do to help is to look for smoke on every line, fitting and all around the tank. If you can set the last test in the video that would close the tank vent so you shouldn't see smoke there. Then get a bottle of bubble fluid (the stuff in the dollar store that you wave to create bubbles) Mix it 50-50 with water and put it in a small spray bottle. You can spray that on suspect areas and see if you see bubbles. The .5 psi is enough to create bubbles if there is any leak.

Good evening! I decided to get this smoke machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7MKZPK3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title since I didn't have access to a compressed air machine.

It did mention something about this machine making 19-23psi but the evap system needing 1 psi. It says to run for 1-3 minutes then stop it but, how long should the start / stop intervals be to not damage the system?

Also, would this UV Dye be suitable for this? https://a.co/d/9As6BgW

I’m not sure where I can expect to see the leak, but at least it's just the one now. At first it was P1456 and P1457, but now it's just the P1457.

I was able to do a smoke test and saw a bit of smoke leaking from around the top of the charcoal canister, but both had been replaced previously. Could this be masking the actual leak somewhere else? Or could it be some type of seal issue design flaw where the two parts meet? Does the car need to be on?

I just smoked it again and see smoke is coming from the top of this hose, but I don’t know where it connects to and not sure if normal for smoke to pour from it.

Check the connection itself for cracks. If you want to see the smoke better use a bright hand light with the lights off. That usually lets you track the smoke easier. A way to drop the pressure would be to open the machine and connect a BBQ regulator in the airline. That would drop it to a half of a PSI.

Awesome! I’m going to pick this up and give it a go! Steel Regulator https://www.lowes.com/pd/Char-Broil-Standard-Propane-Tank-Regulator/999919518

I will be picking up the regulator this weekend, but I was able to do another short test.

I found that where the smoke was coming from is a vent tube meant to be open to the atmosphere. I plugged it during the duration of the smoke test (about 30 seconds) and saw no smoke anywhere from the canister area

Once I get the regulator, hopefully I can run the smoke test longer with no fear it will damage the system. Should I keep that vent plugged when I smoke it again with continuous smoke?

That tube is likely the canister vent. Your scan tool should be able to close the valve it has for that. If you turn it "off" so the vent is closed and still gets smoke out of it, the valve is bad. It may turn on and off, but it isn't sealing.

I didn’t see any smoke when I ran with the ignition on and everything set to off. I also did a test drive for 30 minutes after the light came on while monitoring the solenoids. They stayed “off” the whole time. Is that normal?

Also, i noticed i didn’t hear a click when cutting the evap bypass solenoid on and off but did with the evap pc and cvs valve. Is that also normal?

I ordered the regulator so that i can run the continuous smoke later!

The EVAP normally operates under specific engine loads and temperatures. You don't want the purge open at idle or conditions where the extra fuel would cause problems. I would think you could hear the valve, but it depends on how it's damped internally. I also found this in the Honda section. You replaced the unit, but it might have damaged the PCM driver as well. That may be why you don't hear it, the driver is fried, and it isn't operating.


03-001
January 28, 2003
Applies To:
MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure

SYMPTOM
The MIL is on, and DTC P1457 [leak detected in EVAP control system (EVAP control canister system)] is set.

PROBABLE CAUSE
The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. In a few rare instances, the corrosion could be severe enough to cause an internal short in the solenoid valve, which could damage the ECM/PCM. If this happens, both the bypass solenoid valve and the ECM/PCM would need to be replaced.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Test and, if necessary, replace the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. Replace the ECM/PCM if needed.

Wow, thanks for this information! Would it be possible to confirm its damage and repair this driver on my own instead of having to replace the entire PCM? Like open it and fix the faulty section?

I suspect I may have shorted it on both my PCMs because I didn’t immediately replace the part itself until recently.

I found this forum discussing transistors. Is this related to this type of issue? https://www.typerclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1309

Yes it would be a driver transistor like that. You could probably repair it if you are good at board level repairs.

Perfect! Thanks for the insight; I think we may be getting closer to a solution!

Do you think a pc technician may be able to handle soldering a new transistor in place? Or should I find an auto shop? Would anything special need to be done to it after the repair?

Also, are there instructions on how to remove the PCM?

If you want it tested and repaired I would use someone who has the tools for those repairs. There are a few. Maic Salazar https://www.maicsalazardiagnostics.com/ is one who might not have a backlog. Give him a call and see what he says. He has a YouTube channel showing his work. PCM=ECM behind the right kick panel.

Thank you! I will contact them for the repairs. Since I have 2 currently that most likely have the same damage, would it be okay to send the one currently not in my car (but it is the original one that came with the car) and install it after I get it back from repairs? Or should I send the current one in the car?

Send the original, that way you know all the rest works. There are a few places that do repairs these days, mainly because the parts are either hard to find or it's some odd application.

Will do, thank you! I will be expediting the module to them and sending updates about the resolution!

Sounds like a plan. Will wait to hear the results.

Good news! I sent my PCM off and Maic Salazar were able to pin point the issue in it and repair. I should be getting it back by Thursday. I will then reinstall it and do some test driving and report back to confirm resolution!

Sounds great. Maic does good work. Will hold off on a celebration until you get it up and running all the way.

Just dropping an update! So far so good! I feel like I've completed a few drive cycles and I have been checking for DTCs. I also notice some improvements in the performance as well like smoother idling, acceleration and it seems less oil consumption. Perhaps there were more issues that were being affected by it. Will continue to update! I appreciate your help and patience and will be giving another donation!

Great to hear that it is repaired. It likely will run better because all of the monitors can now run and the PCM isn't running on a default strategy.

I may have celebrated early like you mentioned lol. The light is not on but the scanners are detecting it. I still did not hear the click when testing that same part. Could it still be at fault?

This time it might actually be a leak and not the PCM being faulty. Try clearing the code and see how long it takes to return.

Will do! I will reset everything and monitor the mileage and time!

If it doesn't return instantly it isn't the ECM that is the problem.

It seems the code did return in about 7 miles. However, the last time it was triggered, it seemed to be after i manually opened and closed solenoids with the scanner. I did the same before the test drive. I’m going to try another test drive this time not doing any manual tests beforehand! I’m not sure if that is the culprit