Codes P1457 and P1456?

I take it you have a leak code, correct? What is the actual code? Has the system had a smoke test done?

Yes, the leak code is P1457. It appears they did perform a smoke test on the tank side.

Were the circuits that control those parts tested as well? Attached are the OE tests for that code. I would go over the control circuits first. It could be that there is no physical leak but instead a bad connector or broken wire that is causing it. There is also the possibility that a new part that was installed is actually bad. Unfortunately, that is a common thing these days,

I have a multimeter, but not well versed on how to check continuity or what it means when it says "Connect the ECM/PCM connector terminal A6 to the body
ground with a jumper wire." Can you give me some pointers?

A few other concerns I had:
- I was looking at some more recent service records that they replaced the Purge control valve with wire connector.
- If a part is bad, how would I test that? I've heard of the blowing through it test, but unsure if it'd work for this.
- Is it possible to "repair" a part by opening it up? Some of the parts are a bit rare on this vehicle unfortunately
- Last concern, I've read that sometimes an FTP sensor can ready wrong and trigger this code. Could that be a likely scenario?

Thanks for your help!

A tank pressure sensor could cause this but those will commonly trigger a few codes not just the one you have. Do you have a scan tool that can do bidirectional tests on the car? If yes, an easy way to test the tank sensor is to start with a half tank or so of fuel. Put the scan tool on it and read the pressure in the tank on the tool. Remove the gas cap. The sensor should show atmospheric pressure for your area. Now put the cap on and start the engine. Let it run a bit and then shut it off and seal the EVAP system by closing the purge and vent valves. The slightly warmer fuel should give off vapor that will slowly cause the tank pressure to rise and that should show on the data. Then start the engine and run a service bay test where you use the purge valve control to pull a vacuum on the tank and watch the pressure drop. Then open the vent valve and the vacuum should drop and the tank return to atmospheric pressure. Those will tell you if the FTP is the issue.
Looks like they replaced to connector, they may have tested the wiring at that time (at least I hope they did) but if you go to that connector you can test it real quick with the scan tool. Connect a test light across the 2 terminals and turn the valve on. The light should light up to full brightness. Now as you bought the part and just told them to install it, they may not have done any testing, just replaced the part the customer told them to replace.
The easy way to test the purge valve is to blow through it, with it disconnected it should be sealed so nothing can pass. Then apply 12 volts and it should be open and let air through.
If you don't have a scan tool but want to do your own repairs, I would suggest getting one of the mid-range tools from Autel, TopDon or Launch that has bidirectional control and can work with your vehicle. It can save a lot of time and money by letting you do the testing and repairs yourself. Or at least know if a shop is doing the correct repairs when you take it in. IE you take it in for an EVAP leak and they tell you the issue is a bad intake valve it would raise a red flag.

Awesome, thank you! I am going to see if I can purchase an affordable bidirectional tool. It will definitely save money in the long run as I've spent hundreds already.

Would these items from Amazon do the trick?

Automotive Test Light with 3-48V LED Digital Display
https://a.co/d/dmV4PEO

ANCEL BD310 OBD2 Scanner Diagnostic Tool
https://a.co/d/2497OJk

or

TOPDON TopScan Lite OBD2 Scanner
https://a.co/d/4sZHoLX

I really appreciate what you all are doing here, and the YouTube Channel. I will continue to support!

For the test light you just need a basic unit with a common bulb, they can do more than the fancy ones, but that one would work for some other testing. Scan tool wise I think the Topdon might handle what you need. I use the higher-level ones myself and don't pay much attention to the smaller units.

Awesome, thank you for all your help! I have received my bidirectional scanner and the recommended other tools. I will report back my findings to continue to help this wonderful community!

We will be here.

Hey there! Unfortunately, the scanner I purchased wasn't compatible with my vehicle, but I did have a chance to do a voltage test with the test light so far. I grounded it to a painted surface with the clip, cut my car to "on" (didn't crank).

When I checked the electrical connector to the Purge Control Solenoid Valve, one side of the plug made the test light come on and showed 12v on it, but when I inserted it into the other side, the test light did not come on.

Is this normal to occur or would that indicate a bad wire to the connector? Thanks!

Also, for this later step: Connect ECM connector terminal A29 to body ground with a jumper wire.

How would I do this? Would I use the test light or a multimeter?

Thanks!

The yellow wire with black is power and should turn the light on. The red wire with yellow is a switched ground and would show as a ground if the solenoid was active. So, your test light showing power likely indicates that the wiring isn't an issue. However, you would still need a scan too to do the full EVAP test. There are a lot of scan tools that have gaps in coverage or that emit some tests and it's hard to know which ones do what. I know mine can run that test but that doesn't help you any.

Thank you! Yes, I am having a difficult time locating a compatible in budget scanner. Do you happen to know of an older scanner from this car's era that is compatible? I was thinking of searching eBay for a used one that could work and be a bit more affordable.

Well you could look online for an OTC Genisys scan tool (Like eBay item 226350485262 for reference). They are an older pro level tool but one that works very well. They are not as fancy as the newer tools but as long as they have the domestic and Asian software newer than your vehicle they will work. If you get one of the newer EVO models with all the older cables you can handle pretty much every vehicle from 1988 - 2013 if they are updated fully.
Tons of them on the auction site.

Thank you!! I am thinking of going for this one on eBay 326450428086

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326450428086?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Bur8NZm3S4y&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=z-qbqm_tt4o&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Would this one do the trick?

Hard to say, they don't tell which software is installed and activated. You need to be sure it has the Asian software in it and activated. Without that it's useless. You need at least these two software releases; The US and Asian cards at least are needed. They came out with new software yearly so get the latest you can find as they added features over time even to earlier vehicles. So, 2005 or later should be fine. They stopped updating that tool around 2012 or so because the companies came out with more dedicated tools cheaper.

Perfect, I was not aware that the software was separate. I am going to give the non-EVO one a go you recommended since it has all the software, and I have another late 90s Honda I can use on as well. Thanks again, and I will report back my findings once I obtain!

Normally you would buy the tool with the software you wanted, then as you used it you bought newer software and installed it as needed. I have one that is updated to 2010, and it still works very well. But when the newer tools like my Launch and Autel tools started having specials where you could buy a new scan tool, get 2 years of updates free and still have it cost less than just a software update, that is what I started doing. However, that might be overkill if you are not making money with the tool.

Yes, I was hoping I wouldn’t need a scanner having a Honda lol. But I definitely see the value in them now!

A buddy of mine loaned me an Innova 5610 today before I ordering the Genysis. I think it has evap tests, but there is a service check with an evap leak test that tells me it’s not compatible.

However, it does have a powertrain active test that has an evap test to run a single and multi solenoid tests. It says to cut ignition to “on” with the engine off, I get this error: “Vehicle battery voltage is out of range. Battery voltage 10v” I have not completed any drive cycles.

I am not sure why it is not working, because the battery tested 12v last time.

If I am able to get this to work, would that be the necessary test needed?

Thanks!

Toss a battery charger on it and see if the tool then shows it to be above 12 volts. If it doesn't then check the battery connections at both ends. Measure the voltage at the battery, 12.6 is a fully charged battery. if you actually see 10 volts then the battery has a bad cell in it and needs to be replaced. Testing wise, the screens with the solenoid tests should work. The CVS is Canister Vent Solenoid. The PCS is purge control solenoid. You can test both of those with that tool if it will trigger them. Just use the test light connected to the harness side and turn each one on and off. If the computer has control the test light will turn on.

Hey there! So I tried this to see if it would work:

- Battery: I checked the power at the battery with the test light and it is 12.3

- Connector: The power fluctuates between 11.9 - 12 at the purge solenoid connector

- Connected Battery Charger: It acts like it is charging, but the battery seems all charged up. I did a battery check with it and it says it passes too.

I still get the error, so I am not sure if it's not compatible or maybe detects some electrical with the solenoids not getting full voltage? Thank you!

Okay, sounds like the purge is okay, now you need to check the vent valve on the canister in the same way.

Okay, awesome! I will give that a go tomorrow and also set aside some money for the suggested scanner.

Today, I noticed another code a P1399 for a random misfire. I have never noticed it before maybe because it was just pending. I did have the timing belt changed a few months back.

Could this be related to that or possibly have been set off by the P1457?


The engine light never illuminated for it, and the car performance seems unaffected.

I am going to check the connections, disconnect the battery and clear the codes and see if they return.


Sorry about all the follow up questions, but I really want to resolve the troubles and understand how to fix it. I really appreciate your patience and knowledge.

If it has an EVAP leak, that could set a random misfire because it is getting a lean mixture from the extra air that the ECM doesn't know about.

Hey there! Just had a chance to circle back to this. I took it for a spin today and shortly after cranking it up, I got the codes P0301, P1399, and P1457. It seems the P1456 resolve itself and I'm stuck with these. The P0301 is stored while the other 2 are pending. I don't have any symptoms of anything mechanically wrong, but could the engine be damaged driving with these codes, as I continue to work on this?

I still plan on getting the scanner, but I am going tomorrow to have my tires replaced and may have the shop take one more look at these codes.

Okay, the P0301 and P1399 are both misfire codes. P1457 and the old P1456 are pretty much twin EVAP leak codes. The 56 is that it can pull a vacuum, but it doesn't hold because it leaks while the 57 is that it cannot pull the vacuum because of the leak. If you can check the tank pressure sensor it would help. You could just replace it as a test, but it could be wasted money.

Oh sweet, thank you for your continued help, Steve! I know you mentioned an evap can trigger misfires.

I'm having no systems and everything is smooth, but can those misfires damage my engine to drive before I can have them looked at and fixed?

Also, how hard would it be to replace that ftp? I'm thinking of just having the part pulled at a local junkyard if I go that route.

Could a novice like myself replace it and is this where it is at in this picture? It is near the gas tank of the driver's side. I do still plan to get the diagnose tool as well.

I'm hoping this thread will be helpful to others with vintage vehicles in the future! lol

I have the scanner on the way. :)

I have the scanner on the way :)

Good to hear about the scan tool. The pressure sensor in next to the bypass solenoid on the front of the tank.

Thanks! I bought what I think is a fuel tank pressure sensor for my car. May you confirm it is the correct part?

Looks like the correct one.

I just received my scanner! :). Would this be all needed for my diagnostics here? I will be linking it up in a bit when weather permits

Asian 2003 should cover you.

Awesome, I was able to test things out for the first time. I ran the regular tests and received the expected codes we discussed.

I try to run the special tests to control the solenoids, but unsure what it is that failed and why the test says not ready for evap. I've attached to screenshots.

Those are the PIDs that show the monitors. The ones that say not ready just haven't been run. You need to go into the menu and into the special tests you should find a screen similar to the ones you had on the other tool, it would show the EVAP purge and seal and the live data that can be graphed to show the signals for on and off and let you control them. Then you can use that to test the evap and sensors. You would start the engine, go into the test and watch the tank pressure sensor as you seal the system, it should start pulling a vacuum. Then when you release it the vacuum should drop instantly. With the engine off you can see the sensor voltage which should read correct for your location and elevation. That should be under datastream, then you look at the EVAP group.

Thank you! I did attempt to run the special test but it doesn't seem like I can get the full menu to display. But I am able to see live data. I did see in the Asian 2003 User Guide that I should be getting more options. Should I clear any current codes first? Hoping my car is compatible.

That should show more than that, at least on mine it does. Acura normally has more options. This is using it with the vehicle ID entered correct? Try using it without entering the vehicle info as a generic scan tool and see if it is limited in data display there. Don't know anyone with a "vintage" acura here or I'd hook mine up. I have the same OTC tool on the shelf. Mine is up to 2008 if I remember. Been a while as I generally grab one of the other tools.

I did try it with the VIN and also without. It seems to keep getting the same short menu. Do you think it may be the program? Would I need the Asian 2007/2008 card as well maybe?

I did find the Asian 2007 card and purchased it. Looks like the description says it supports the bidirectional evap tests. Fingers crossed!

It should have it, unless they didn't release the EVAP tests early in the production cycle. I bought mine with the 08 software already in it though. I've used it to run that test though.