altnator not chargeing bit checked ok.

ok well i tested the black/blue wire on bot the MAP & TPS sensors and they are both reading 0.2. But when i unplug the TPS sensor the car seems to run a lil better but also when i un-plug the MAP sensor there is no change in any way shape or form that i can notice anyway.So at this note what now? What is the next step to this process?

k well tested Map sensor ANd TPS sensor voltage on the black/blue wire and both are 0.2 volts. but when i disconnect the TPS sensor while car is running the car seems to run a lil better but when i unplugged the MAP sensor while car running there is not change that i can seem to notice..So what now? Do you think that the TPS sensor is bad?

ok i checked the voltage on the TPS & the MAP sensors black/blue wire and the voltage is reading 0.2 volts. But i unpluged the TPS sensor while the car was running and the car seemed to run a lil better and then i also di the same to the MAP sensor and there was no change as far as i could tell.Its almost like the MAP sensor is not even serveing any purpose but its a new used MAP sensor. So what now? Do you think the TPS sensor is bad and causeing the MAP sensor not to work at all or properly?

That's different than what you found before. 0.2 volts on the ground wire is perfect. Measure the voltage on the signal wires for both sensors. You should find the TPS voltage is close to 0.5 volts at idle, and the MAP will typically be around, . . . oh, . . . 1.2 volts to maybe 1.5 volts.

Is it possible when my serpatine belt broke it could have caused my Ecu to mess up? And could that make it so my Ecu has to be reprogrammed?

Nope. Stuff will just stop working, the same as when the engine is stopped.

How do you tell if your water pump is bad? My temp gauge inside my car is not working i can't tell if my car is hot out not. When I touch the upper radiator hose it is not even hot I can drive for 45 min and pull radiator cap right off coolant is warm but not hot. Replaced thermstat and put in boiling water and it its working. Also replaced coolant temp sensor.

There's three ways for a water pump to leave this world. Most commonly they leak around the shaft seal. If that goes on long enough, the bearings will get sloppy and it can make noise from the impeller hitting the housing or the serpentine belt can slide off. The third way is for the impeller to disintegrate or break free and fail to spin with enough force. That is common on Volkswagens with plastic impellers. That will lead to overheating. As for running too cold, a good way to tell if the thermostat is working is by the highest temperature of the air you can get from the heater. On a low fan speed you should be able to get around 140 degrees from the heater ducts on the floor. Also, the heater hoses should be too hot to hold onto for very long.

yes the heater hoses are very very hot and heat works in the car just fine. But i just dont know why the top hose does not get hot and why i am able to open radiator cap when hot cap is a lil warm but not much at all.. There is no leakes around the pump at all but now i do have a leak in radiator which i think the leak is down towards the bottom of radiator and its not a bad leak at all.. I will say that when all these problems started is from my serpentine comeing off thats also around the time when temp gauge in car stoped working.also i made sure radiator was full with coolant and after driving my car for awhile the top hose for some reason does not seem like there is realley any coolant even running through top hose.. Coolant in car is brand new there is no rust nothing inside radiator it looks like its new in side radiator.. So what do you think?

I would start by draining the coolant to save it, then disconnect the various hoses and run water through from a garden hose. The water should run out from the bottom of the radiator as fast as you can pour it in on top. Don't open the radiator petcock for any reason. We had a whole pile of them break the part of the plastic tank where the o-ring seal went up against and caused a leak that could only be fixed by replacing the entire radiator.

As for the gauge, look for the single-wire coolant sensor near the thermostat housing to see if it is disconnected. If it is not, unplug it and ground that terminal. With the ignition switch on, that should make the gauge read full hot. That wire used to be purple.

K well my voltage regulator is bad and does not charge my system as you know.. But what im asking is can a bad voltage regulator cause my car to flood meaning its way over fueling.. If not what is the most likely to be making car to flood????

The MAP sensor has the biggest say in how much fuel enters the engine. The acceptable range of signal voltage is 0.5 to 4.5 volts. A failing sensor, (or older ones with a leaking vacuum hose), can report an incorrect value, but as long as it is within that range it will not set a fault code.

The best way to attack too much fuel is by connecting a scanner that can read live sensor data and look at the fuel trim numbers. If the short-term numbers are high negative, that means the Engine Computer knows something is causing too much fuel to enter the engine and is trying, unsuccessfully, to reduce that amount. If the numbers are high positive, it means the computer is requesting more fuel in response to something it sees from one of the sensors.

A cylinder misfire can also cause a very rich condition. You will smell the unburned fuel at the tail pipe, but the oxygen sensor only detects oxygen in the exhaust, not fuel. It will tell the computer to command more fuel into the engine. No matter how much fuel enters, there will still be that unburned oxygen from the misfire.

For engines that have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail on the engine, a kinked / blocked fuel return line to the tank can cause fuel pressure to go too high. That will cause extra fuel to enter the engine.

An exhaust leak ahead of the front oxygen sensor can result in a rich mixture. Between the pulses of exhaust pressure, the momentum creates pulses of vacuum that can draw in outside air. The oxygen sensor will pick that extra oxygen up and report a lean condition that the computer will try to correct by adding more fuel.

ok well i have tested the map voltage and it checked out ok.I also changed out map sensor with a new/used one and it checked out ok.. also i have to keep the vacum line that runs from the valve cover pvc valve to the air intake disconnected in order for my car to stay running other wise i disconnect it it satys running.. So do think that the voltage regulator being bad making the system to run at high circut could cause my car to flood?

Nope. Forget the voltage regulator. The engine will run fine with the charging system not working. I suspect you're overlooking / not finding a mechanical issue, not a sensor problem. Try unplugging an injector while the engine is running. It should develop a misfire. Try each injector, one at a time. If any do not cause a misfire, that one might be sticking open.

If you have to leave a vacuum hose open to get enough air into the engine, that suggests the automatic idle speed motor isn't opening. Loosen the two mounting screws about 1/8" and pull the motor out of the throttle body. That will open up the idle air control passage and let more air in. The Engine Computer won't control that motor / valve if the battery was disconnected. It has to relearn "minimum throttle" first. You have to be driving on the highway for that to occur. Drive with the engine warmed up, at highway speed, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching any of the pedals.

Be careful with the screws for the automatic idle speed motor. They are held in with thread locking sealant and it's easy to round out the torx screwdriver slots.

well i got my car fixed now thank god. and every thing that was wrong with my car was the ecu. bout a new ecu from auto computer exchange for 200.00 bucks programed to vin and shiped.But

But now i need to know how to rebuild factory altenator with a higher amp out put cause i have a huge huge audio system and its drawing to much power from alt?????

Can't help you with that. I wouldn't anyhow because those amps are really rude and obnoxious. In my city you get one written warning; after that they confiscate your equipment.

Alternators by their very nature have current limiting built in. It is a factor of the number of loops of wire in each of the three stator windings. There used to be kits you could buy that included stator windings with more loops, and heavier diodes that could handle the increased current, but those kits were for 50 - 80 amp alternators. Most alternators today can easily produce 90 amps and many are good for up to 120 amps. If your alternator can't produce at least 90 amps, you may have a defective diode. When you lose one of the six, you lose very nearly two thirds of the rated output. That means all you'll get is around 30 amps which is just enough to run the fuel pump, engine electronics, and the head lights.

The place to start is with a load test on the charging system. Most professional load testers include a test for excessive ripple which would indicate a defective diode.

how do you wire a 4 prong battery isolator.Ive done a bunch of searching online and every thing ive found has said that a battery isolator is not compatable with my car because the voltage regulator is internal. so they recomed a battery sepeator. which i already have an isolator. So is there a way to hook up the isolator with out hurting my car? And if so how????

What is this supposed to do?

1.}You can get a battery with a higher wattage try for 1000 with a reserve of 120 watts-300watts.

2.} you can get a coil or lightning cap, type device, this hooks up to the amp via the battery wire. One pole goes to amp the other goes to battery. This will prevent the amp from draining the battery, by storeing voltage in that capacitor. Your lights won't dim out. And your music will sound awesome xD

3.} get another battery, wire that secondary, voltage regulator you have between the stock battery and the reserve battery. This way one alternator can charge both batteries, and won't over volt. Or strain the alternator.

You can't strain an alternator. They're like a water pump; they won't pump more water than their capacity allows. Alternators won't pump more current than their capacity allows. The whole story changes a lot if you got suckered into buying an '87 or newer GM product. Their AC generators, ("alternator" is a term copyrighted by Chrysler, but that's irrelevant), have all kinds of design problems built in and running them near maximum pretty much guarantees repeat failures.

Even the most heard-of-hearing kids with the loudest amps don't need more than 90 amps from the alternator because those units don't draw maximum current all the time. They draw the most during the bass notes which makes the car sound like a dump truck rolling down the highway. In between the low notes, current is very low and the battery will regain any charge it gave up momentarily. At issue is getting that current to the amp when it's needed. If you truly understand electrical theory, you will be familiar with "voltage drops" in a circuit. That is a result of the resistance in the wires and the amount of current you're trying to run through them. Giant capacitors are a gimmick to overcome the effects of that resistance. If the manufacture adds a silly digital voltmeter to it, you can watch the readings change while sitting in the trunk.

A capacitor does the same thing as the car battery only it is much smaller electrically. A capacitor the size of the trunk would power an amp for about 20 seconds and would cost about 20 times more than a car battery.

I'm not sure why everyone today needs to be entertained every waking hour but many of us do not appreciate the noise youngsters pump out of their cars. I'm not so insecure as to require that much attention from strangers, and I'd be embarrassed to get negative attention that way.

You can reach a lot more people with a PA system if that's your goal but music is supposed to be pleasing to the ear, and I haven't heard much of that in years. Imagine if you were forced to listen to an opera singer against your will. No one is going to convince you to like it by forcing it on you. Thank goodness as people mature they lose their desire to beg for someone to notice them.