my engine wont run?

This sounds like a crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Roy

I installed a new sensor fired up nicely thank you.

I recently replaced the fuel pump on the blazer. It ran fine for about 2 months. Then the blazer would not start. Blamed it on the fuel pump and replaced it again. once installed it started right up. I started it 3-4 times. seemed fine. Went to take the blazer out for a drive and now it will not start. when you turn the key on you cant hear the pump turn on. the vechile turns over fine just will not fire.

Hi:
Are you able to check for power to the new pump? It's possible that you have luck like me and you got another bad one. Also, is the pump an aftermarket?

Joe

1999 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

my car will run for 3 days fine but then on the 4th day it will turn over but wont start. if i let it sit for a day or so it will run finr for 3 more days. i bought the car used. the check engine soon light just came on yesterday for the first time but the car has cut off 2 times before this. can you help?

Hi:
First I need you to take it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. Let me know what they tell you.

Next, when the problem happens, I need you to check the fuel pressure. Go to this site to see a video on how to do it.

https://www.2carpros.com/dia/test_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I bought this Chevy blazer 1999 and nasty so I cleaned and took out the cluster cleaned the glass is all and plugged it back in now it wont work so I bought another one same thing. So I used my sons 2000 chevy blazer for a test used the electrical box under the dash in the middle of the floor board and swapped them around the 99 box worked but wouldn't start the 2000 and the 2000 would work in 99 blazer but no start so I swapped them back around an now mine works but wont start please help

do you have a flashing security light?any codes? make sure that you have every.thing back together and plugged in. unhook the positive battery cable from the battery first and then unhook the negative battery cable from the battery and hold them together for about three minutes,then hook up the negative cable back up first and then the positive cable second and see if it will start then.

you will need to let the car relearn the cluster. use your ignition key that normally runs the vehicle and turn the key to the on position and let it stay that way for about an hour without attempting to start the car. you may want to hook up a battery charger if your battery is old. after an hour the car should start. if not it may require a dealer relearn

ok, Since the weather has started to get colder the problem has started. I have had problems with the distributor cap fouling, have recently changed it out, plugs and wire changed 6 months ago. The engine will turn over, but not start. I ran the battery down the other day trying to start the vehicle, in the mean time I changed the fuel filter. When I was able I jumped the vehicle off and it started and ran fine, however the next morning it started again. I had the battery checked and it was bad, so now a new battery and still the same thing. The engine will turn over but not start, it will sputter like it fires for a second and then die, but when I hook up another car to jump it the vehicle starts first crank and runs fine. I did try an new coil and there was no change. Could it be the ignition control module or maybe the fuel pump?

Get an accurate fuel pressure gauge and monitor the fuel pressure while this is occurring. This engine requires a minimum or 55PSI to run and it should be even higher.

I had to pour a little gas in the throttle intake to get it started, I just put a new fuel pump in and I still have to pour gas in the throttle intake to get it started, its getting worse and sometimes it doesn't want to start but acts like its trying to but takes a while to start

I agree with the previous reply.
Check the fuel pressure, when the engine is OFF, but the ignition switch is ON;
Then check it when the engine is running. (Should be 60-66 psi during each of these)

Check it a third time after the engine has been off for 30 minutes or so. (It should hold this pressure for at least 30 minutes.)

I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer. As I was riding down the road the engine Just stopped. I pulled to the side of the road and tried to start it again. It did not start. When I turn the key the starter turns the engine but it does not start. When I turn on the key I do not hear the fuel pump humming. It sounds like the fuel pump in not working (I had it replaced about a month ago when I had the same problem). The Blazer has a factory security system. If I let it sit over night it usually starts.

try resetting your security system. and make sure the fuel pump is working. have a helper turn thekey and remove ht gas cap and listen for buzzing. if you hear that then check how much fuel pressurehyou have. it should be abotu 52 psi minmum. here are instructionsfor resetting security system attached.

Vehicle died while driving, replaced plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel filter, crank and cam sensors. Has a new fuel pump as well. Turns over, but will not start, I have spark at the coil and plugs, I smell fuel under air intake hose (bonet), and I have sqirted some fuel into TBI unit. Is there any other thing I could try? Do you think it could be a plugged injector?

Hi, use a fuel pressure gage. Not only check for proper pressure, see if it holds after everything is turned off? Some of the national brand autostores used to loan out a fuel pressure gage. You can call and ask. Can you check for possible trouble codes, at the least, you need an obd11 code reader.

4X4, 140,000 miles, 4.3L, Auto Trans simply did not start yesterday after running just fine for a long time. Turns over, no Check Engine light but feels like the engine is going to fall out of the cavity (sorry aviation terminology).

All the fluids are good so I'm starting with the plugs/cables then possibly the starter/solenoid before I think about a fuel issue. The battery is good and the alternator is about 1-2 years new?

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!

Well common no start issues is normally between 1 of 2 things possibly even both those things are no spark or little or no gas reaching the engine. must play process of elimination.

1: check for spark, pull a spark plug wire from one of the plugs, stick a screwdriver into the end and, while holding the plastic handle, move the screwdriver so that the metal part is close to a piece of bare metal on the engine. Then get someone to crank the engine. If there is good spark you should see a spark jump from the driver to the metal. If not then car has no spark and this is the problem but you still have to figure out why which we would tackle if this is the problem.

2: check for fuel pressure find the location of the gas tank have someone turn the key to the on postion while you lend an ear as close to the gas tank as possible. As the assistant turns the key listen for a buzzing sound if you here it thats your pump if not then the pump is not working.

Now if you have spark and find that the fuel pump is working your next step will be to get a fuel pressure test to see if the fuel injection system is giving you trouble.

This is just a start but may it will help keep us posted with what you come up with.

Richard

I Have 99 Chevy S10 blazer that wont start, pour a little in throttle body it will start and runs fine, when shut it off it will not start back up.

you have to have a min of 59 psi fuel pressure for this truck to start.
coolant temp sensor fails this truck will not start.

check fuel pressure and temp sensor

whenever it rains the vehicle will not start it will just crank

check the coil to see if it is cracked and check the wires. you should be able to tell if a wire is bad when you start it and it is dark out, open the hood and see if you can see any wires arching to the ground. I had a coil on a older car that I could not figure how come it would not start when it rained or was very damp . One night I openred the hood and when someone tried to start it I could hear and see the wire shorting out. Check all the connections, make sure they are good and tight. Look for any wires that have been rubbing and worn through.

About a year after I bought my car, I had a problem with starting it. When I turn the key, it turns over, the rpm goes up and it seems that the car has started. Instead up staying on, immediately the rpm drops to zero and the car dies. It seems to be a sort of electrical problem since the car seems to start better when the radio, a/c, tape deck, and temperature gauge are not on. It doesn't happen all the time, but it seems to start happening more often.

Next time it happens, try this...\Have you done a relearn on the pass-key?
GM PASS LOCK RELEARN- Ignition to "run" position, try to start and let key return to "run" position
Approx ten minutes security light will go off
Turn key "off" and wait 5 seconds
Repeat 2 more times for a total of 3 relearns.
Turn key off, then start it
You might want to aslo check the battery and charging sytem...

I tried the key pass relearn thing and there was a whirring sound in the dashboard and the car then started when i tried it again. Is this a one time fix or is it just something i have to do whenever the car doesnt start like that?

Hard to say, GM's had a tech bulliten for thier tech, it's about loose or poor connections of electrical connectors, so a lot of intermittent problems can stem from bad connections...

I have a 1999 blazer it is hard to start. It takes a bunch of trys to get it to start. Once it starts it idles fine and runs fine.

Use a gage and check fuel pressure. How long since a tune-up?

Try cycling the key on and off a few times, no crank, before you try to start it. That may help prime the system.

replaced engine with salvaged engine ran good for 150 miles then radiator was filled with chocolate milk first thought was 3 core radiator but coolant was burping out of radiator as in blown head or intake gasket. replaced upper gaskets and realized it was the radiator still ran good until 195 degrees then died. pulled engine replaced all gaskets reinstalled engine timing is correct no.1 tdc rotor on the (6) on distributor which is pointing to no.1 plug wire. engine cranks but will not start getting fuel and spark at no.1 plug but not detenating. please help.

choc milk is an indicator of a blown head gasket. typical of used engines.
you need to most likely remove the engine, remove the heads, have them checked for warpage and cracks, which is common and check the mains and rod bearings for coolant contamination.

Roy

no sign of coolant contamination in crank case and had heads magnafluxed and checked for worpage tourqed everything to specs ran fine after first overhaul now on this overhaul not starting the cause of choc. milk was crack in radiator between oil cooler and antifreeze cooler

remember, it needs at least 60 lbs of fuel pressure. check the compression both wet and dry.
bring number one to tdc on compression and make sure you have the rotor at number one inside the cap.

Roy

okay have told you in first description no.1 is at tdc and rotor is at no.1 new crank position sensor and crank position sensor plenty of fuel pressure and spark at no.1 plug no detination everything torqued to specs have 90lbs compression on all cyl. and holds compression can't be mechanical has to be electrical. i have addressed all the issues you are advising i check cant get it started so no trouble codes to go by yet.

now is the time you need a scan tool to see if the pcm is seeing a rpm signal from the crank sensor and you need to see the cam signal or timing on the distributor, now called the cam sensor. it has to be 0 degrees plus or minus 5 degrees.
I hope plenty of fuel pressure is 60 at least.

Roy

no codes battery was out while repairs where being done yes fuel at 68lbs. have auto-xray ezlink but when scan is performed no codes come up and when monitoring i can see rpm on screen throtle possition at 7% but not seing air flow rate or fuelair ratio

forget about any codes. the only thing left is timing. you need to re verify both chain and distributor timing.

Roy

went thru it 6 times no1 at tdc rotor at the number 6 stamped it distributor which points to no.1 plug cranks like out of time. have beat myself up with this one new cam sensor and new crank sensor changed distributor new rotor and plug and new cap new map new mas air flow new tps new coil new pcv im at wits end

engine ran fine before removale from vehicle

90 PSI is extremely low for compression. Normally it should be around 120. Try pulling the distributor and reinstalling 180 degrees out from where you currently have it.