Engine stalls

hi joe , as I stated in the question , there is no check engine light . Truck runs great until this happens . Given the fact that there is no check engine light , it seems to me to not be a sensor or electronic issue , which leaves mechanical or fuel flow issues . The question if this is true is , is it the fuel pump or the gas in the tank ,,or the fuel filter which is on the fuel pump. Is there any way for me to determine what is causing this problem without replacing the $250.00 fuel pump ?
Also as I stated in the original question , I changed the air filter and added octane boost and fuel treatment . that seemed to work for a month but now is not . Since then I have run the gas tank almost out of gas , the problems seem to get worse as I get lower on gas . I then filled it up and the problem returned with a full tank.the problem does not happen on my way to work , but happens on the way back in the afternoon . My work is downhill from my house .So this leads me to believe that something is in the fuel tank moving to clog the filter or it has something to do with the temperature being 50-60 degrees in the morning when I go to work and 75-85 degrees when coming home . What are your thoughts? the truck has 130,000 miles on it . Thank you for your help .

Hi:
At this point, I would suggest that the fuel pump be checked for both pressure and volume. Based on your description of the problem, the pump sounds bad to me.

It is common for the pump to cause the symptoms you have described. Especially the fact that you have the trouble on your way home (up hill) when the greatest load is placed on it.

If you have never checked fuel pump pressure / volume, I would suggest having a mechanic do it for you.

If you have any further questions, let me know, and I'll do my best to help you.

Joe

Engine Performance problem
1998 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

My truck stalled while coming to a light and sounded like it was deiseling.

Hi:
is the truck running again? Did the check engine light come on? You may want to have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free. My guess is there is a problem with the knock sensor.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

It started back up but stumbled a few times yesterday.I am going to see if I can get it scanned today.I'll let you know what I find out.

I took it to autozone but there wasn't any codes.Any ideas?

I just wanted to let you know I took it to a shop and found it is the idle air control motor.

I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota 3.9 v6 automatic and am experiencing intermittent cut-off (dies). No obvious clues (hot/cold/wet/dry/load/noload/etc) it will run fine for days then die 3 times in an afternoon. There are no codes that are set in the computer... I replaced the crankshaft position sensor with no-joy. I'm not sure if it's losing fuel or spark, but I suspect spark.

Hi

First, when it cuts off, does it start right back up? Also, if not, that is when you need to check for spark and fuel. You may want to check fuel pump pressure to eliminate the pump. Regardless, one will be missing (SPARK / FUEL) and then we can try to determine where the problem is located.

Let me know.

Joe

The truck shut off 3 times today two were at a complete stop with a cold engine and one was backing up after a 10 mile ride. I have received the following error code only on the first shut off. P0300 random misfire on cylinder 3 and 5. the truck was not sputtering or knocking it just shut off. I cleared the error codes and did not receive any more. Each time the truck starts right up with out any issue.


Thank you

Joe

check the crank sensor to make sure the connector is tight and clean. Also, when it dies, do you feel a miss first?

Joe

yes i feel a miss. I installed a new crank sensor and it appiers to be clean and tight.

my 98 dakota stalls while driving stoping or slowing down to make turns then have problems some times restarting it after restarted it runs ruff what would cause this problem

thanks bubbalanie

sounds like its starving for fuel... replace the fuel filter.... its the most overlooked, and the cheapest.... let us know the results.

am told that fuel filter is in pump and just replaced it 2 months ago becuase told that was problem

Diagnostic trouble code 1391 came up on OBD2 Diagnostic Analyzer.What is wrong with my truck and how can i repair it?

Hello The code means intermittent loss of CMP (camshaft position) or CKP (crankshaft position). I could attach the troubleshooting charts but you do need a scan tool to do the checks for the crankshaft sensor. Let me know - they would be small but we can try. I have attached a chart showing the two sensors for the code. It will be a little hard to see, but the square to the left is the PCM. The top circle is the CKP and the bottom is the CMP. My thought is one or both sensors are going bad.

Hi, my problem is that my truck will randomly stall out during all types of driving conditions. Whether the climate is hot or cold or if the engine is hot or cold. If I drive fast, slow or sitting idle it will do the same. I have replaced the fuel pump, O2 sensors, Throttle Position sensor, Air Idle Control, cleaned the carburetor and done a complete tune-up. Please help!!

Hi:
Will the engine die at highway speed while you're on the gas? Also, when it dies, how long does it take until it will restart? Finally is the check engine light coming on? It sounds like it could be a map sensor, but I can't tell you for sure without a code.

Joe

At highway speeds, it hesitates briefly but keeps going since the gas pedal is down. When it dies, it will start back up immediately. And finally, part of the problem is that the check engine light has never come on while doing this. Thanks for your impute on the MAP sensor, I will try that. I appreciate any help so much.

Hi:
Even if the check eng light isn't on, there could be a code stored in the computer. Give it a shot and take it to a nationally recognized parts stores that scan cars for free. It may help.

Let me know what you find out.

Joe

Hey Joe, yep sure enough there was a code stored in the system and it was the crank sensor that was acting up. It wasn't giving spark to the distributor. So I replaced it and now it works fine! Just thought I would let you know since you asked and to let others know for the future as Dakota's and this subject seem to get asked a lot. Thanks again!

Truck stalls out when driving. Takes a couple of cranks to get it running again. Just before stalling completely, pressing on the accelerator causes it to backfire. Mechanic says the main computer needed to be changed first. "First"? It's a thousand dollar job, I'm apprehensive to go ahead and replace it just thinking it might not be the main computer. Any suggestions?

Has this mechanic checked for codes? is your check engine light on? I would look at fuel pressure first...

merlin, thanks for the response.
He checked for codes, and I'm getting from him that the codes were erraneous, or "weird" (for lack of terminology). And the check engine light is not on.

I'm pretty sure they checked the for fuel pressure issues, but I'll bring that up to him.

I'll probably go with the ECM, if I do I'll keep this forum posted.
thanks again.

it was the ECM! :)
big $ but I've been running the truck for a couple of weeks without a problem.

My Dakota stalls when I down shift and when I am coming to a stop.It doesn't happen every time, but it does it frequently. I just bought the truck and the owner informed me of it doing this, said he didn't know the cause. So when we got home from buying it I took it to a repair shop, and told them what it was doing, they have been unable to find the cause.

For a start check the exhaust gas recirculation valve for carbon-you need to open it up and investigate also the PCV valve.

Sorry. Asked a question the other day. Was in a hurry and driving and didnt explain things very well. Truck was running good. Only problem was after starting it would run ok for a couple mins and then bog down like it didnt want to take fuel. I could "punch" it a couple times and it would be ok until I shut it off, then same thing each time it was shut off. The other day while driving it just quit as if it had no fuel. After stopping I could put a little fuel in the intake and it would fire. I have no pressure on the fuel rail (checked w/ gauge). Also I cannot hear the fuel pump kick on when the key is turned.Is there a easy way to confirm I have power to the pump without dropping the tank? If it is the pump any help or hints for me to make dropping the tank easier ? Should I go ahead and replace other components in same area while ive got the tank out ? Again sorry for the hacked up message the other day. I appreciate your patience and help you guys supply. Thanks nomad30251

Hi:
As far as the pump, without removing it, the best you can do is check for power at the fuel pump relay to see if it is there. However, based on your description, it sounds like the pump. Regardless, switch the fuel pump relay with another one in the relay box that has the same part number. See if that makes a difference.

As far as removing the pump, I never drop the tank on these vehicles. It's been a while since I did one this year, but if I recall, there are 8 bolts that hold the bed in place. I would remove them, disconnect the filler tube, disconnect any wiring that is attached to the body, and simply get a helper to remove the bed or at least move it so you have access to the tank.

Every time I would remove the tank, I would end up with broken straps, a cracked plastic fuel tank, wiring that would be damaged, broken hoses for the EVAP... Once the bed is moved, you have all the access you need.

I have a 1998 dodge dakota. V6 2wd. As your running down the road it just dies. If it starts to spudder stop the gas it will correct itself. The mechanic it is at right now has changed the distributor and ignition modular. Said he has it fixed twice. Make it a little ways down the road and it dies again. I got a call from him today. He said he gives up to come get it. Please help.

If it starts up again after sitting a few minutes, you might suspect a plugged pickup screen inside the gas tank. It will be more likely to act up when you let up on the gas pedal to coast. You may find that by driving with a fuel pressure gauge attached that you can watch when the problem occurs.

Where could I get a pressure gauge and how does it work "Where does it hook up" . What should it read?

Ask at an auto parts store that rents or borrows tools. Many hardware stores sell them as do the guys who drive the tool trucks from shop to shop each week.

There's a test port on the fuel rail on the engine that looks like a metal tire valve. Run the hose under the rear edge of the hood and prop it up under the wiper arm so you can read it while you're driving. I have one on my '88 Grand Caravan right now tied to the radio antenna. I've been searching for an extremely intermittent problem for months.

You'll see what normal is when you're driving. With multiple injectors the typical fuel pressure is around 45 to 50 psi, but it will go up when you accelerate and it should go down when you're coasting. On my van, it tends to act up when I'm pulling a large tandem axle enclosed trailer that's bigger than the van. The pressure drops as low as 20 psi but the engine will still run with no noticeable stumbling. If I let off the gas a little, the pressure pops back up to normal. At 15 psi is when it finally stalls. Most engines won't still run with the pressure that low.

motor cuts out in drive looses horse power put it in neutral and rev the engine couple times and put it back in drive its fine. also some days when its wet or hot out or a combo of both does the same thing. when i get a diognostics check comes back with nothing. im told the computer may need to be replaced. where and how much can i get the compter replaced?

also it has been sitting for 6 months bc the problem has been getting worse spark plugs have been replaced almost sounds like its not getting enough fuel like its choking. the computer may be sending wrong signals im told. any help will be great bc if it cant be fixed im going to have to sell it and get another vehilce its my primary source of transpertation.

Highly unlikely it's the computer. GM has a ton of trouble with engine computers, but not Chrysler.

An incorrect reading from the MAP sensor will affect fuel metering, but as long as the incorrect readings are within normal limits, it won't set a diagnostic fault code. This can cause a gradual or smooth loss of power, but not a sudden cutout like turning off the ignition switch.

Based on the mileage, you might suspect a plugged pickup sock in the gas tank. They will actually cause a problem when the largest volume of fuel is pumped which is, are you ready for this? . . . When you're coasting. If it runs better when you're accelerating, suspect the sock, and have the tank steam cleaned. This happened on my 1988 Grand Caravan. Ran great on the highway.

Older Dakotas had trouble with worn bushings in the distributor. The shaft would wobble causing surging from changing timing. It usually didn't cut out completely because it only affected a few cylinders, depending on which way the shaft moved within the pickup coil.

The pickup coil can develop breaks in the wires from heat. Your timing is computer-controlled, but on older engines, the pickup coils were mounted on a movable plate. As the plate moved to change timing, the pickup coils would flex, leading to broken wires. When it moved just right, the engine would cut out instantly.

Try a MAP sensor first, and the engine computer last.

caradiodoc

my truck runs really good except when i slow down to an idle. sometimes it stalls out

Hi:
First, the cheapest thing to check for are vacuum leaks. If you find none, have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free. To me it sounds like a throttle position sensor (TPS), but I can't tell without the scan.

Let me know what you find.

Joe