Engine stalls

scan for codes and try to get freeze frame data. check fuel pressure as it may not be enough. check map sensor if it has a hose for being pinched or soft it may be sucking together

This guide should help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Electrical problem
1998 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Intermittant engine dying, some times at a stop,or when first start up it may idle a few seconds and die.I have noted with timing light light no spark. I changed coil and auto shut down relay This dose not happen all the time, it may be ok for a couple days then happen again. Usually after cranking a few times it will get ignition and go. When running I tried wiggling wires to see if engine will die, no luck. I have a Snap On Scanner but am not getting any codes.

With no codes, this may be tough to find.It may be a Crank Angle Sensor shorting out, that will cause the engine to lose spark and injector pulse.They dont always set codes,when they short out

I guess I didn't give you all the info -I had changed all the following---Cam sensor-crank sensor-map sensor-t.p.s.-I.a.c. After the car dies and you restart sometimes you can run rpm up to 3500 + - and it will still die.I think not mutch left but pcm. Heat doesn't seem to be a facter as it doesn't matter how long engine has run.

Sounds like you have pretty much covered everything but the PCM.I have seen some Dodges have problems with the ignition switch, but I havent seen any do what your truck is doing.Have you checked to see ifit still has fuel pressure when it dies, or is it just missing spark?

I have decided to go with PCM. Nothing else makes any differance. I'll be back if this doesn't work. Thanks, Dempsey

Thanks, if it works for you we can add it to the database to help someone else down the line

Hey so my Dakota keeps stalling out. no matter what you are doing you could be going around a corner and it shuts off. to idling in the driveway. The truck will sometimes not do it for 5-7 days and then randomly it wont start. i have replaced the Master Coil, Cat converter, H2 Sensor, and battery. What could be causing the problem? Btw its 188 KM/s Not miles

Has the check engine light come on?

Yes the check engine comes on. we think. the check engine light has been covered with tar.

If the light comes on, take the vehicle to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. Most stores will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

we have taken it into dodge dealerships all over and they cant ever figure out what is wrong with it.

Engine stalls when down shifting to stop or turn, idles ok when sitting

HAs the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Let me know.

Joe

It sounds frustrating. However, if the light is on, there is a good chance a trouble code will show when the computer is scanned. From that, I would be better able to help you.

Let me know.

Joe

check engine light is on, just replaced oxygen sensor, check engine light went out,but came back on after a few miles of driving. No haven't checked for vaccum leaks

Well for your future reference the trucks Fuel Pump was shot. and the timing was off by a little hence why when i would slow down truck would stall out. Truck is now sold fixed her up nice got 6 grand for her :)

[quote:aacc8cd677="willard nash"]check engine light is on, just replaced oxygen sensor, check engine light went out,but came back on after a few miles of driving. No haven't checked for vaccum leaks[/quote:aacc8cd677]

whule driving on the road at around 25-30 mph, the truck started to loose power and when pressing on the gas pedal, it won't rev up. so i pulled on the side and put in neutral, and reved up, and it went fine, but when i putted it gear, it wouldn't want to go, so i stop the engine, waited a few seconds, started it back again, and it went fine for the first few feet, then it starting to struggle with the gas again. also there's a noise that sounds like something hitting the floor of the cab. i'v allready changed all the electrical parts of the engine ( distibutor cap, rotor, wires, sparkplugs and the engine coil). it was fine for a few months, but it started to do it again. and now the "check engine" lights up.

let's start with pulling the codes and report back to this thread with the results.
https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_scan_trouble_codes.htm

so today, i went to get the code read, and the only thing that it said is that the truck was running lean. my mecanic said that i might one of the sensors but he can't know for sure because the truck was running well.

with the loss of power and the "running lean code", you have a fuel problem.

Causes would be clogged fuel filter, with as many miles on your truck, it should probably be replaced anyway.
Failing fuel pump.
Debris in the fuel tank keeping the fuel from getting to the pump.
Clogged or malfunctioning fuel injectors
Fuel pressure regulator

I get the feeling from what you have said that this problem is intermittent. If so, your truck will have to be misbehaving before you can start testing for the problem.

fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cap, rotor, inition module(round thing with a plug and wire inside the distributor) ASD relay, fuel pump relay, hooked to computer with a slight misfire on #2 cylinder is all.......all the above is new.....the truck sputters and dies at anytime, driving or idling, it cranks back up right off most times, sometimes not. It takes a few tries and a few minutes other times....after replacing the above parts and $800 USD's later...I have the same problem....is there something else I can replace that I've missed?

Have you checked the idle air control motor? Vacuum leaks?

(1)I found one port open at the manifold. now plugged.
Still dies arbitrarly at high or idle speeds....plugging the port seems to create more of the problem...it does seem to start back up quicker though...
(2)I unplugged the idle air motor while running....rev'd it up around 2500 rpms...the engine was surging but still continued to run...then at idle had a harder time but did not die......
(Comment)but get this, the security system started acting up a few months back. The engine would not start if the security system was at fault. You won't believe this but I just started the truck up after testing the idle motor (unplugging then replugging while running), I then locked the doors and took it for a spin...I do mean spin....no rough running, no valve clatter, good accelaration......will it continue to do so?.....at every test, I check the fuel pressure first thing.....always had a squirt the valve but now I here the pump with a definite run and presure build up.
Still no definiitive conclusion as to where the real problem is yet......Is there an inline fuel filter or security shutoff that can either be by-passed or disabled? this is as close as I can guess on capturing this ghost....probably a dead inlaw....

The security system should shut the engine down and not allow it to start. I hate to say it, but there is no way to bypass it.

As far as the vacuum leak that made things worse, here is what I think has happened.

When you plugged the vacuum leak, less air was getting to the engine. If that made it worse, that tells me the IAC may not be working and allowing enough air to enter the vehicle causing it to run rich. When you reconnected it, it started running better. Something tells me that it wasn't working maybe due to a bad connection. Now that it is reconnected, it is working. Drive it for a couple days and let me know what happens.

Joe

Truck did great to the store...not so good after....would not start after coming out of the store...sat there and waited, tried, nothing.... got out of the truck and turned the key to unlock then lock then unlocked...got back in...truck started and ran fine up to around 30 mph, sputtered and slowed, then picked back up and ran fine....I pulled into a local shop that has a good rep...talked to the owner who said they had a similar problem with a dodge truck a few weeks earlier that turned out to be a loose wire at the door key switch causing the security system to do a complete shutdown just as I have talked about...he also recommended that I replace the fuel pressure regulator....I think I'll take it to him in a few days and see if they can find a problem in the wiring.....thanks for the help....If anything definitive is discovered, I'll let u know so u can put it down for future reference....

Let me know. Also, why does he think the regulator is bad? Was it checked?

We have replaced fuel filter and pump, pick up magnet, distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil, the diagnostic tool points toward the ignition coil circut. Help. The truck runs great for a mile then it stalls out. Then sometimes it will run all day with no problem. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
Mike

Not sure what you mean "the diagnostic tool points to the coil". If it's electrical or sensor-related, there should be a diagnostic fault code memorized, and the "Check Engine" light will be on. If an ignition coil becomes shorted, the engine computer will shut the drivers down to protect them.

If the air gap is not set to specs on the pickup coil in the distributor, the Automatic Shutdown Relay will not turn on or will turn off intermittently. That will result in no spark and the fuel pump won't run.

You will never solve a cutting out problem on a Chrysler product by changing the fuel filter. The distributor cap and rotor are highly unlikely too. The pickup magnet will never cause the problem you describe, but the pickup coil definitely could. Looks like you didn't change that. Try that first, although you should have gotten a fault code for "crankshaft position sensor". After that, a professional diagnosis might be cheaper than just throwing a lot of parts at it.

caradiodoc

He said that another problem a customer had had earlier was at the regulator...I suggested that I could change it to try and cover all the bases....the pressure has always been good though...I will change it and drive for a test.....I doubt that that is a problem though.....If it still dies, I will then examine the wiring harness and door wiring...if there is nothing obvious, I might take the rail off and add a 2b carb.......get rid of all the junk.....I will get it reliable.....

Before replacing the regulator, I would check it. Why waste the money. If you need directions, let me know.

Also, I would think that a fuel pressure issue would affect more than one cylender. As far as the carb, I wish it was that easy.

Let me know.

Joe

I'm possibly dealing with more than one problem... I've unplugged the IAC....the engine does not die now at all unless I let off of the gas petal while idling.....so I'll replace the IAC, then try it and then look at the pressure reg......the truck will not shift into high gear while the IAC is unplugged, don't know why that is but ok....I had a ford EXP in the '80's....a loose ground wire located under the front right headlight. This caused the engine to die, the wipers to run without being switched....the radio to play etc.....all from a loose wire...drove me crazy till a buddy saw a blue arc under the headlight when I dropped him off one evening....we tightened it up and no more problems.....if this is an intermittent problem, it may never be resolved without major money. I bought an 02 jeep in 01 new. Within 3K miles I had an intermittent problem with the engine dieing. turned out to be a wire in part of the harness that was rubing on the transmission.....another head scratcher....mechanic kept it for 2 wks to find it...I will continue with your advice till we have definitively found the problem.....it's personal now....

With the IAC unplugged, it will stall unless you keep your foot on the gas. The IAC does nothing more than allow additional air to the engine when the throttle plate is closed. If you open it with the throttle, it will / should stay running.

It sounds like you have had some real headachs over the years. Let me know what you find.

random stalling,, dies out and sometimes hard to restart.

Welcome to the forum. How long since a tune-up? With an extended crank, Have helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Also, check for trouble-codes. Some of the national brand autostores used to check generic codes for free. You can call and ask.

I was pulling up to my drive way wen my truck just died like you turned the key off I've had the PCM replaced the distributor cap and rotor new plugs wires checked the fuel pressure it just turns over and will not run and its not popping codes

Did you visually check for spark at the spark plugs, engine cranking? Also, check for injector pulse, engine cranking.

If no spark or injector pulse, check primary voltage at the ignition coil and fuel injectors, engine cranking.

Check cam and crank sensor.

I have a 98 dakota and for the past 2 months i have been dealing with this problem. The truck will die and act as if it is flooded when I try to restart .. after 1 or 2 minutes it starts . There is no engine light .. It happens at idle and while driving .. about 1 month ago I thought it was bad gas since my wife's buick was having similar problems . I used octane booster in both cars and problem went away for a month . we also started getting gas somewhere else .. now the problems are back in both cars . The dakota is having worse problems . We moved here(albuquerque) last year and the octane levels here are lower than it Texas . Can this be the problem ? I have replaced air filter on dakota and I don't think it is engine related due to no check engine light .. Please help .. Robert

Hi:

Have you had anything checked to this point. It could be several things. First, is there a check eng light on?

Let me know,
Joe