Engine wont crank

left lights on over nite charged battery all nxt day,car will not turn over.battery cheks good alternator cheks good ,starter checks good,fuses chek good.the problem seems to be some where btween starter and nuetral saft switch

It will not start in neutral either? You say starter checks good, has the signal at the starter purple wire been verified? Also, is the security light functional, and what does it do, if it is staying on while cranking you have a VATS system problem. Have you tried a different key?

car does not start in nuetral,security light blinks while cranking,did verify starter puple wire .i dont have another key.i just tried to bridge two posts at starter with a scew driver,it cranked but didnt turn over

Just for clarity, I think of cranking and turning over as the same. I believe the flashing security indicator while cranking is telling us something. If you remove the lower drivers sound insulator, there is an orange conduit coming out of the column along with the wiper/turn signal switch harnesses. This conduit has two small white wires that come out of it. Those wires either go into a flat connector, or have there own two wire connector. Either way disconnect that connection and measure the resistance across those two wires on the column end. With the key in you will have a value(it varies). That value should remain the same through all key positions when rotated accy-off-run-start. You should not see O.L or other open reading at any time. If you do, the ignition cylinder has opened, more than likely broken at the cylinder. Did you verify 12 volts(or test light) at the starter wire when in crank, it could not have been there or it would of cranked.

Hwlp! This is the only site online that I have found info on a 1977 so I figured I wouldd post here.

My car will not turn over or start. It sat for a while and I just started working on it. I got a new battery, oil, brake fluid, etc. It started right up with the new battery. It started a few times prior to moving it. I tried to start it when we moved it, but to no avail. However when the guy showed up to move it he got it started no problem. Drove it to the new destination just fine. Now I cannot start it. I need to move it and it wont do anything. I am curious if I am missing something or a trick. I cannot get a hold of the guy who moved it. What do I do?

we do not have any starter diagrams for that vehicle, but try buckling the seat belt the interlock relay may be the problem.

make sure its in park or neutral you may have to wiggle shifter.

Will try the seat belt thing, I tried starting it in Park and neutral but nothing still. It is not the starter, and all the cords are tightened. I also cleaned the battery connections just in case as well. Still nothing. I will try the seat belt thing when I get home and keep you posted. Thank you for the suggestions!

Hi,

Here is a guide to help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-engine-will-not-crank-over

Let us know what you find

New starter, engine will not turn over. I tried jumping on starter cranked over once and then dragged.

check battery for condition including load test most places do for free.

Hello,

If you decide to check the condition of your battery yourself here is a link to helpful information from this site that features written instructions, pictures and a video explaining how to load test your battery yourself. If you need further assistance please come back to 2CarPros.com. We are always happy to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-battery

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

I thank you for this website.
I have already replaced the starter and evey now the car will not start. when i turn the ignition switch on all the lights come on fuel pump starts and you can hear the relays initiate. I've read the info. from another message board, but that does not explain not getting a reaction from the starter, even when the entire ignition switch is bypass by an after market ignition button. can you please help me resolve this issue. THANKS

you'll need a test light to check to see if power is going to the small lug on the starter when you have the key turned to the crank position.

if yes, then the start is bad.

if no, then it could be the park/neutral safety switch, or the car's VATS system.
try to start it with it in neutral next time.

Just recently, I just had my blow motor, front axle and multi-switch replaced. Then had to have my brake line fixed and replaced my starter. I was pulled into a lot to park my car, put in park and turned off the ignition but it turned off hard. I turned back on the ignition and let it run for about 20-30 seconds and there did not seem to be a problem with it. An hour later, I came out to start my car and it would turn over but not start. I had noticed the fuel data center, which is electrical, had hadsome glitches after having received the car back from the brakes and starter getting worked on. So I though maybe something happened that was not showine me the correct amount of gas I actually had in the car. So I put about 2 gallons of gas in the car and waited 15 minutes but it still did not start. I knew it wasn't completely out of gas but was low enough. For example my car, when it is low on gas, will stall when I trying to pick up speed such as when I am merging onto the interstate. When my ride came, I tried one more time to start the car and though it turned over, it did not turn over as much as it had before.

Okay, so pretty much keep half a tank left in the car at all times. What kind of sound from the pump am I listening for for those 2-3 seconds? AN actual pumping sound or hissing sound or air pressure sound? Will the car be able to start if I put more gas into the tank? Or do you think I've blown the pump because I drove it while it was too low on gas?

What you need to realize is that cars with fuel pumps in the gas tank need fuel to cover the pump, or overheating and pump destruction occur, it's a good practice to keep at least 1/4 of a tank so the pump stay cool, check for the fuel pum starting when you turn the key to on, it should run for 2-3 seconds...

My car was running fine, two days later I tried to crank it and all is does now is turn over and try to crank. I seems like it want's to crank but just won't go the rest of the way. I have replaced the ICM, coil new cap, wires, plugs but no success. It had a code of E53 and F32 I erased them and now it won't set a code because it wont crank. I also checked the fuelk in the rail and it has fuel with pressure but I'm not sure how much. please help, thanks.

[quote:c96741cebd="timbo980"]Computer problem
1991 Cadillac Deville V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 110000 miles
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My car was running fine, two days later I tried to crank it and all is does now is turn over and try to crank. I seems like it want's to crank but just won't go the rest of the way. I have replaced the ICM, coil new cap, wires, plugs but no success. It had a code of E53 and F32 I erased them and now it won't set a code because it wont crank. I also checked the fuelk in the rail and it has fuel with pressure but I'm not sure how much. please help, thanks.[/quote:c96741cebd]

and e53 is a TPS code, F codes are body codes for lighting, take off air cleaner and look at the throttle plates are they black? Did you hook back up the distributor wires, squirt carb cleaner down the throttle while someone turns it over, does it start? if not its spark, something in the distributor, cam sensor or pick-up coil, or the coil you bought. Did you buy good parts or autozone

Yes I looked at the the carb and they are black. I shot starting fluid in the carb while it was turning over but no success. The parts did come from autozone but I put the old ICM back in yesterday and had the same issue. The car acts the same as it did before I put any new parts on it. I'll try replacing the hall effect switch next thanks for your reply.

[quote:5dcaeac7c4="timbo980"]Yes I looked at the the carb and they are black. I shot starting fluid in the carb while it was turning over but no success. The parts did come from autozone but I put the old ICM back in yesterday and had the same issue. The car acts the same as it did before I put any new parts on it. I'll try replacing the hall effect switch next thanks for your reply.[/quote:5dcaeac7c4]

you will have to pull the distributor out to do it so put a pick up coil in it too, while its out

I put the new p/u coil and hall effect switch and it still doesn't crank. The motor tries almost has real low iddle while cranking but as soon as I stop turning the motor over if chokes out, If you have any ideas they would be appreciated, thanks.