Engine is stalling out while driving

Usually the problem isn't a bad PCM, but rather a bad connection within the wiring harness where it plugs into the PCM. I may have already asked this, but have you check the connection where the wiring harness plugs in to the PCM? I have seen corrosion, bent pins, or loose connections cause problems.

Let me know.

Joe

Winebrener,

Changed the O2 sensor (aft Cat) and air filter. Still has the cut out upon acceleration but its better. Occassionally it will stall or get stuck in the "choke" mode. (ie: coughing) then it will come back. I am thinking fuel filter or throttle control valve.

What do you think? I will try the fuel pressure gage.

also on dodge chrysler product through those years when you disconnect the battery you have to re learn the computer using a scan tool they will have weird drvability problems if you dont

Hey Wineburger, (Sorry I goofed your handle), Anyway, this auto parts guy is convinced its the map senosr. says the Fuel issue is too much instead of not enough....Says from the sound of the starting problem when warm its getting flooded, Excessive cranking when warmed up and popping, at the ned of the cycle when it doesn't start. and that when accelerating it chokes out if applied to quickly. (if I baby it I can get it past the rough spot.) What are your thoughts on this? I am having trouble finging a rental fuel pressure tester but they only cost $40 so I may have to buy one if the MAP sensor doesn't do it. I'd appreciate you ideas on this added info.

Also, as for relearning the codes, I also tonight I took out the IACV and cleaned it it seems to be working fine when diagnosing it with A/C added and idol change. When I returned the IACV to the vehicle it did race then came right back into spec with idol and performed as before, Crappy.

those actron scaners that autozone uses wont relearn the computer i use a snapon scanner and it has a place in it to reset all memory ,if you disconected the battery recently i would try this first . i had a dodge product come in on more than one occasion that this was the fix.simmular van came in it died when ward coming to a stop start up run eraticaly .poor acceleration

I havn't had the battery out or have it dierecently. The OBD scanner I am using iis software a neighbor has on his computer. It reports fault codes in the computer and gives the ability to clear the codes. It also gives all the pertinent data like Fuel trims, O2 values, RPM, engine Temp, IMAP, etc. All these values are equal to the neighbors vehicle which is the same make/model just a 1996 but identical motor.

I don't know why you think I was using an Actron scanner from Autozone? However, I would like to try Relearn the computer or reset all memory as you say. I guess what I am asking is when I reset the codes is this what you are speaking of?

no its called relearn not just reseting the codes. or if you dont have enough fuel flow it will cause a simullarit to dye out on acceleration . with the scanner see if your o2 sensors lean way out when accelerating if they do i would suspect a fuel flow problem .cloged fuel filter;cloged screen on bottom of fuel pump . faulty fuel pump.actrons what i use when i dont have anything else.

I was driving down the highway and my van just shut off completely when i tried to start it it just cranks but wont fire up the guages were doing weird things like rpm and speed guages not working on occation but gas and cooling would. my wipers would sometimes not shut off and then eventually the passenger wiper just quit completly i replaced the coil pack and fuel filter and fuel pump and nothing when my husband checked the computer we found that the engine fuse keeps shorting out also we found that a ground wire was snapped it looked like a shoe lace we replaced that ground but i think that was a whole different ground. can someone please help this vehicle is my only transportation and i use it to transport 2 small children and one is disabled please help i've tried machanic's but they keep telling me they dont know after i spend $100's then send me back to square 1 i really dont have alot of money to keep guessing

Ok lets see what we can do some things are harder to do long distance then others so you may need to be patient ok. I need to know when it dies is it spark or fuel that is missing? As for the guages we will get to that later ok. THe ground wire that you replaced what did it go to? Do you have a digital multi meter you may need to do some tests. Get back to me with what you know and we will go from there. Thanks and have a great day.

It only died once and never started again it seems like it's not getting spark it just keeps trying to start but wont fire up the ground that i replaced was gray and looked like a shoe string it's on the top left corner conects from the body under the windshield to the fender i'm not a machanic so i dont know what it's called also no i dont have a digital multi meter all i know is that it keeps blowing engine fuses from the main fuse box under the hood

Ok that was a ground strap for the body to hood thats all nothing more so that should not have had anything to do with it. Now what I need you to do is pull a spark plug wire off and put a screw driver in the end of it just (a philips works best) and put it near metal and turn the engine over and see if there is spark or not ok. Get back to me with what you find. Thanks

ok i tried that and no it's not getting spark.

Ok what you need to do it disconnect the connector to the coil and I need you to use a digital multi meter and check for voltage at the B poss term at the connector the wire to that on the connector will be Dk blue and Tan. Here is a pic of the connector ok. Then I need you to check resistance between term 3 and the B poss term the first should be battery voltage the second should be 2 ohms of resistance or more. Let me know what you find ok. Here is a pic of the connector.

If this checks out ok then we will test the Auto Shutdown Relay ok. Thanks and let me know what you find.

just baught a 97 grand caravan the seller told us that it cuts out every now and then but start right back up if you shut the vehicle off. My husband did a full tune up and oil change also replaced tires and ball joints then the van stalled about 12 times do you think its the fuel pump

Ignition switch, Idle speed motor, engine computer, crankshaft position sensor, electrical connectors, automatic shutdown relay, MAP sensor, EGR valve, throttle position sensor, air conditioning over-charged, etc.

WAY too many things to guess at without more information, but a fuel pump and tune-up are two of the least likely causes. When does it stall? Driving? Idling? Coasting? When coming to a stop? Does anything else stop working? Was the battery disconnected recently? Does the "Check Engine" light come on while driving? Will it stay running if you hold your foot on the gas pedal?

Fuel pumps USUALLY cause a no-start. Tune-up issues will cause a surge or sputter.

MAP sensor reports engine load. It can be incorrect without being out-of-range. That will result in the wrong amount of fuel being delivered. Crankshaft position sensor can be intermittent, but they usually have to cool down before they will work again. Burned contacts or connector pins in the ignition switch will also cause the radio display to go blank. Idle speed motor can let the engine die when coming to a stop if the computer doesn't know minimum throttle. That information will be lost from memory if the battery was dead or disconnected, but it will not cause stalling while your foot is on the gas pedal. If the heater control lights are flashing, battery power was lost. That computer will need to be recalibrated, and minimum throttle must be relearned. Minimum throttle just involves driving it under a specific set of conditions. This doesn't sound like your problem.

Holler back with more details.

caradiodoc

my 97 dodge caravan is stalling and cutting out really bad.. i have changed my distributor but that didnt work.. do u know what it might be.. please help me..

Has the Check Engine light come on while driving? A good suspect is the crankshaft position sensor but it would be nice to have a diagnostic fault code pointing to that circuit rather than just throwing random parts at it.

1st check for codes
check fuel pressure '
check for vacuum leaks

well my distirbutor was throwing a spark over to my fuel injection system.. thats the main reason i changed it

When trying to start my caravan if once i turn the key and all the light on the dash are on the van will start. If the check engine soon light is not lit, the van will not start. Had this problem before and I changed the Egr. Run good for a few months and now it will lose power and the airbag, check engine, oil and abs light will come on and the check engine light will flicker as the engine sputs and spudders. The only code i can get using the key method is 31 but I;m sure that code as been in there for a long time! HELP

Rescanned the computer by using a scantool/scanner or go to autozone and get it read and comeback with the OBD2 code/s

pls refer to subject- engine stalls after 10 miles of driving, and then it acts like a fuel problem and then won't restart untill it's cold. I've replaced the fuel filter,and it has good fuel pressure at injector. Our outside air temp is about 5 degrees . Added 2 bottles of iso heet dry gas and 10 gal of fuel. Suggestions?

Inspect EGR Valve Clogged, dirty or improperly functioning or defective egr valve.

Inspect MAP Sensor Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor.

Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits

Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s).

Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s).

Inspect PCV Valve Plugged or damaged pcv valve.

I HAVE A 1997 DODGE CARAVAN AND WHEN I DRIVE FOR ABOUT TEN MINUTES IT SHUTS DOWN AND WONT RESTART UNTIL IT COOLS DOWN OR SIT ABOUT 30 MINUTES.... BUT I NOTICED THE INJECTORS ARE STILL RECEIVING PLENTY GAS..IF I SPRAY QUICK START FLUID IN IT IT WILL TRY TO START?

You need to check for spark and fuel to the engine when it won't restart. One will be missing. From that, we will know what system to focus on.

Let me know.

WHEN IT WONT RESTART THERE IS PLENTY OF FUEL REACHING THE INJECTORS SO I KNOW ITS NOT THE FUEL... BUT CAN THE COIL PACK MALFUNCTION WHEN IT GETS HOT AND THEN RESTART WHEN IT COOLS DOWN...IVE CHECKED EVERYTHING..PLEASE HELP

Yes to the coil pack and crank sensor.

Two weeks ago I had the rear brakes replaced on my 1997 Dodge Caravan, when I picked it up it the (service soon light) was on. I drove to the airport over an hour and was gone for a week, I picked the car up yesterday drove with no incident and driving today after the car had warmed up, it continually stalled. After sitting a couple hours, I dove it no problems, until it warms up. I have noticed that the idle is really light, at times I have questioned if it was running, not that it jolted in anyway like it was starving but just I can not hear any engine noise. It also would die during acceleration not only stopped.

Hi:
If the check engine light is on or was on, there is a code set in the computer. I recommend that you take the van to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. Most stores will do it for free. The codes they pull will help us identify the problem.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Engine Performance problem
1997 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

While driving the engine shuts off. After a few minutes will restart. The same problem occurs after a few minutes of driving. Sometimes even when the car is on park. I have changed the following parts:
Coil, the whole distributor, the map sensor, ignition switch and I have still having the same problem.
What diagnostic do you have?
What is the best car hand held analyzer to buy?

I use Chrysler's DRB3 scanner. It does everything possible, and with a plug-in card, will do anything emission related on any brand of car, '96 and newer, sold in the U.S. They're not cheap over the internet, but I get mine through the dealership I used to work for.

Do you know how to retrieve diagnostic fault codes with the ignition switch? That will get you the codes that will direct you to the circuit or system with the problem, not necessarily the defective part.

caradiodoc

We drive this van anywhere from forty five miles to sixty miles and it will shut off. I have to let it sit for a few minutes, then I will get me another ten miles (if I am lucky) then it shuts off again. we have already replaced the ECM, what else could it be? I am having to use my fifteen passenger van as a daily driver right now.

You have not included any test results or information to start the diagnosis, but one dandy observation is the engine will restart after only a few minutes. A real common cause of this type of stalling on any brand of vehicle is a crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor that is failing by becoming heat-sensitive, but your symptoms do not really match this problem. With those sensors, they typically work okay as long as you keep driving and natural air flow keeps them cool. The problem occurs when a hot engine is stopped for a short period of time, as in when stopping for gas, then the heat migrates up to the sensors and causes one to fail. The other clue is it almost always has to cool down for at least an hour before it works again and the engine will restart.

Your observation of being able to restart the engine after only a few minutes points to a very elusive cause. That is a collapsing pick-up screen inside the gas tank. That blocks fuel flow to the pump. An additional clue to look for is the stalling usually occurs when the largest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting. The engine will usually run fine at higher speeds and when accelerating. I had this happen to me four times with three vehicles. With one of them, it took me four hours to get through Minneapolis with road construction on all three bypasses, then, once out of the city, my van ran fine the next three hours all the way home, until I started coasting, then it stalled again and I had to wait a few minutes.

You can also identify this cause by connecting a fuel pressure gauge and clipping it under a wiper arm so you can watch it while driving. You'll see pressure drop a little when coasting, but if the screen is plugged or collapsing, pressure will drop abnormally-low. In my case, forty five pounds was normal during coasting, but with the plugged screen, it dropped to twenty pounds when coasting, and stalling and surging showed up at fifteen pounds.

The screen costs around $12.00, but the fuel pump assembly has to be removed from the tank to replace it.

My van died while driving, thought it was fuel pump but it seems to pump. Only pumps for initial prime though, not on cranking. Checked for spark next...no spark! Not really sure where to go from there. Would a crank/camshaft position sensor cause this problem? If you can help me out that would be great.

Are you getting power to the coil? And yes a crank sensor can cause this. However, was the check engine light on?

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. After going back to my van dumbfounded, and having checked sensors, fuel pump, etc; I decided to pull the front timing belt cover off the engine...well, it was a broken belt. Boy, what a job! My water pump has been leaking for some time too so I replaced it while I was at it. Again, thanks. Mike

It sounds like you have the aame type of luck I have. Regardless, I'm glad you got it fixed. Let us know if you have questions in the future, and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

Transmission problem
1997 Dodge Caravan Automatic

First I want to say that I'm from Belgium and my English isn't that good. I hope I can explain enough to give you an idea of what the problem is.

When I start driving the car there is no problem. The car accelerates very good, no shocking, etc... But when I want to slow down to turn, the car stops running from time to time so the problem doesn't occur constantly. The man who I bought the car from said it had to do something with the computer and he did reset it (he said) but the problem still happens. It might be because I'm not used to drive american automatic transmission cars (I'm pushing the brakes not hard enough or to hard) but personaly I think it is something mechanically. The car doesn't shock or anything like that, it just stops running.

When I looked under the hood to see if there was a lose cable I also checked the power distribution center. I noticed that one of the relays are missing: Automatic Transmission Controller Shutdown. I thought this may had something to do with this problem.

I hope some one can help me with this.

Kind regards,
Jeroen

Although you can try installing another relay I believe an electronic scan tool can be plugged in to test and repair your van fairly easily, it is important to drive a safe van, and I don't want anyone to get into an accident. If it was because of a missing relay, the scan tool will pick it up electronically. It is your choice for repair facilities. If you see another mini-van like yours ask the owner where he has his van serviced. ok good luck

Pushing the brakes hard or not has nothing to do with it ,
American made cars very comfortable drive and easy too
now do you have a check engine light on while driving and if so we need to find the codes
if no OBDII reader available to you ,we can try and get the codes by cycling the ignition switch on off on off on read p codes in the odometer area if no codes DONE will appear
let us know what you have for codes
also you say it happens but not all the times try and notice if the amount of fuel in the tank makes any different
and if its happening when low on fuel start to suspect fuel pump issue
if not
check IAC valve ,clean it and throttle body too
after it stalls does it start right back up or it take time for it to fire back up if it take time suspect ASD relay and or crank sensor

good luck