Engine won't start

Check to make sure the fuel pressure is within spec. It could be a bad regulator. Also, yes an O2 sensor could cause this.

The engine will not start, it has good fuel pressure and it has spark. Engine will start with either.

Check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it should be 60-66 psi
Here is a helpful link, www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

That was the first step taken. The fuel psi is 65. It does have spark. I can get it to start with Ether then it dies out.

Check to see if its a timing chain that jumped. Have checked fuses under hood?

Timing already been checked. All fuses also checked. Note: the Initial problem was engine would not start because the fuel pump was bad. Changed pump/screen/ fuel filter . Now as good psi (65) good spark but still will not start. Starts Immediately With Ether and will continue to run if you keep spraying ether.

Check to see if there is play in rotor. There should not be any and the gear may be worn on bottom of distributor. Check to see if the fuel injection spider is bad. On the earlier models it is recommended to replace them.

1997 Chevy Suburban

We've had the car for about a year. About 2 months ago I was driving on the freeway and the car just stopped, I had about a quarter of a tank of gas, it started again I got more gas and no issues until now. While driving on the freeway again it stopped, and wont start back up. It turns over but its like no fuel is getting to it??

ther may be a problem with the harness near the fuel pump. some of the replacement pumps come with the harness so as not to do this again. Check your fuel pressure first though. It should be 40 p.s.i. min. If you change the pump or that's the rproblem make sure to get the harness with it. it's about 12 " long.....

Is there a way to check the spider and also could all of the injectors gone bad where none of them will inject /spray fuel? Is there a way to manually force fuel through the injectors to unclog them? I had a buddy form work that this exact same thing happened and believe it or not, I replaced the Distributor rotor and it solved the problem. Not here in my case. This has me stumped

There is a balance test to do this, but you need a special machine to do it. Check with a local mechanic to see if he has another way, but most of time they just replace the spider. Also if this is a pancake style cap make sure it is not the cheap one as it will not allow truck to start. Let me know how that works.

Thank you for your helpful suggestions

My 97 454 Suburban won't start. Pulled spark plug and not getting spark when it turns over. Also no fuel pressure. Can't hear the fuel pump humming when I turn the key on. I'm pretty sure it's going to need a new fuel pump, but I'm stumped as to why I'm not getting spark when it turns over. Help?

Does the fuel pump come on for 2 second prime when the key is first turned on?

Does the check engine light come on for bulb check when the key is turned to "ON"?

I have a 1997 Suburban LT 4x4 w/109500 miles. I packed up the family to go to dinner but the Suburban would not start. It cranks very healthly but will not turn over. I suspected the fuel pump but when I turn the key to the "on" position I hear the "whirring" of the pump although it seems to be slightly louder than before. I replaced the fuel filter last year. If the fuel pump is "whirring" can it still be faulty? What else should I be looking at? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

check to see if you have any spark. pull the coil wire off the distibutor cap, stick a long flat head screwdriver in the wire. while holding the handle lay the screwdriver close to metal (i.e. a bracket) and have someone crank the engine over. if you don't see any spark then look into replacing the ingnition module or coil. be careful with the spark test and don't get shocked. good luck

TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE ON THIS ONE! I'm very grateful in advance, for when you reply back to me. I'm trying to fix it before I have to pay to tow it.

Here's the situation: Truck is all stock 454, LS, save the Flowmasters. 155K, all highway miles, a little towing by the first owner, I'm the second. Won't start.

I parked in the parking lot at Whole Paycheck (Foods) and when I came out, it wouldn't start. I had a new ICM and Coil so I put that in right then and there and it started back up. Drove fine for a couple hours. Since then, it has started and immediately died several times, or just drove fine, but after sitting wouldn't start. Sometimes it wouldn't start when it was cool, sometimes when it was hot. It also started cold and hot at other times. It also started a couple times, but promptly died. I have tried 2 new, good ICM's, and I believe the ACDelco one I pulled out initially is probably fine.

I have replaced: Fuel pump and sock (Delphi OEM), fuel filter BWD, fuel pump Relay BWD (works great in friend's 454) ICM and Coil, Borg Warner cap and rotor are 6 mos old. Plugs and wires are 6 months old, OEM NGK. Had been running like a champ up until this point. When I pour gas or starter fluid in the intake it fires right up for a moment, then dies

I pulled the fuse block out and checked the wires underneath to trace out to pump. They are intact and just fine. Power at the relay / fuse block. P

Threw the code "p1351" several times. Ignition control, open, and Ignition control, high voltage. Is this from the PCM, even though the ICM controls startup? Is the PCM Controlling whether the Fuel Pump starts up?

I replaced a 9 month old Delphi OEM FP with the same. The new fuel pump worked just fine for a while, but now will NOT start to save it's own skin. I have cleaned all contacts at the frame and double checked the ground. It's fine.

I only had a test light with me where it died, so I hooked it up at the mid-harness connector on the frame. The common is good beige-ish brown, and with a 12v tester wire from the battery it was solid. I drew a light spark / ark on the hot lead - black / white. On the middle wire which was purple (no purple wire at the relay) the test lamp lit up very weekly, like it only had about 5-6 volts. This was tested with Key On, Engine Off - Engine won't start.

I attempted to hotwire the pump to drive it home, but couldn't get it to operate. I didn't know the exact way to wire that, but I tried everything I could - I think.

Have you ever had this problem or what does it seem like to you?

Is there either a temp or oil sensor that would prevent the PCM from letting the FP run?

Would the code p1351 cause the PCM to keep the pump off?

I look forward to when you write back to me. Thank you.

Hi grommet, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Lets do this 1st to rule out the fuel pump

I hope I understand it correctly too long-Okay lets deal with the fuel pump get a jumper wires-disconnect the fuel pump connector and power the gray wire from the battery positive post and battery negative post to the black and white and see what happens attempt to start vehicle-let me know

Hi Raz, I did just as you suggested, and the pump was a no go. I don't know if it's the pump or the harness / sending unit, so I'm going to replace the sending unit tomorrow and check the pump, but I'll check the pump first. If it's the pump, then it's really unfortunate that I ended up with 2 bad OEM pumps in such a short period of time.

Would this throw the p1351 code?

The P1351 has to do with the ignition system unrelated to your problem

Hiya Raz. Well, I pulled the tank again and checked the pump. It fired up right away when I bench tested it, and I did about 30 cycles of on/ off. This left the sending unit / harness.

I discovered when I checked for continuity that the plug on the inside of the tank had a melted socket, so went ahead and replaced it. Now, however when I go to start the vehicle, it will do the same thing it first did when I started having this problem.

It starts, for a few seconds, but it only starts on the fuel thats in the rail. Then it dies and throws the same code, "p1351".

Then it won't start.I try and try, but nothing. I wait a while with the ignition off, but sometimes that won't do it. It cranks and cranks. So I replaced the relay, but same thing.

There was a burnt pin under the fuel relay in the fuse block. If you looked down on the fuse block, it would be the upper right pin. Don't remember that color wire, but could that have caused the burn out in the tank, or vise versa? Could this have burnt out something in the PCM?

It's done this exact thing with 3 different ICM's now, until I guess the wire in the tank heated up so bad that the plastic insulated the contacts and it wouldn't run anymore.

Thank you,
Mike

Do you hear the fuel pump come On for 2secs when you turn key on-if so check the actual fuel pressure if its within specs with a fuel pressure tester-If not check Ign E fuse 10 amp,fuel pump balance relay and fuel pump balance module

The balance fuel pump module controls the coil side of the fuel pump balance relay that's located at inside left side of frame rail near transmission crossmember

It starts, for a few seconds, but it only starts on the fuel thats in the rail. Then it dies and throws the same code, "p1351".

Then it won't start.I try and try, but nothing-When it does this be looking for spark too!

When I was recently driving down the highway at 60 MPH, it quit running. It was like someone just shut off the key. This had happened to me a couple weeks earlier at a stop light in town and it started right up again. At that time, the tank was near empty, so I thought the low fuel had something to do with it. This time, however, there was over a half of tank of gas in it. Anyway, when i pulled over to the side of the road, it would not start. I figured it was a bad fuel pump, but a buddy of mine who has some pretty decent mechanical knowledge came and looked at it. He pulled the cover off the carburator and pured some gasoline into it. We tried to start it, and nothing. He figured if it was the fuel pump, that by putting some gas in the carburator, it would at least start up and run until it burned that little bit of fuel up. He then removed a wire from one of the spark plugs and connected a spark plug to it and layed it on something metallic. We cranked it, hoping we could see some arcing from the spark plug --- nothing! At that point, he told me that it looked like it wasn't getting any spark, and the problem wasnt very likely the fuel pump. Any idea what it could be? Could it be a bad relay? I'm afraid i am going to have to take it to a mechanic, but I would at least like to have some idea of what it could be before taking it in. Thank you for your help!

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

The service engine soon light came on while driving ,when I got home I plugged in my diagnostic code reader and it read for the O2 sensor then I cleared the code, went to start truck and now the truck only cranks! I have cleared that code many times b4, the truck has spark and it is getting fuel..

is it getting enough fuel? do you know how to check fuel pressure? you can rent the part from advanced and they will tell you how to use it on your truck

97 Suburban with 5.7 It starts fine first thing in the morning. After its been warmed up and operated, and you stop and let it sit for more than an hour, it acts like it has no fuel. You have to crank the engine 2 or three times and then it fires off as if its only hitting on 2 or 3 cylenders. You can smell a heavy gas smell for the first 20 seconds and then it runs just fine. Fuel pump was replaced along with the injectors and all manifold gaskets. Looking for help. I'm guessing fuel pressure regulator ?????? Anyone else have this problem?????

Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge designed for your fuel system with and w/o vacuum to the regulator to rule out the FPR/Fuel pump.

I have a 1997 Suburban K1500, 5.7L. It was running fine, but failed to start one morning. It turns over, but appears to not be getting fuel...adding fuel directly to the TBI will permit it to start and run for a few seconds. We have recently had very cold weather (below 0) and I thought it might have a frozen fuel line. The weather has been above freezing now, but still no luck.

The fuse looks ok, and the relay appears to be working, but I do not hear the fuel pump pre-charging when turning the ignition to accessory. I havent been able to get under to check the fuel filter due to lots of snow. It has about 30 gal of fuel in the tank, so I am hoping someone may have a sugestion of more things to check before I go through the problems of dropping the tank to check the wiring harness and fuel pump.

Hello
Thanks for the donation.

Cold weather is very harsh on electrical components.

Chances are that if the fuel pump is not kicking in, you will need to test wiring and fuses. Test the fuses and relays for proper volts. Also test pump to see if it is getting power if relays/fuses are.

You stated that the relay "appears to be working", so does this mean that you tested it? Electrical components can be tricky so if you didn't test the relay, you can follow the provided link and test the relay per instructions to ensure it is working properly.


Hope this helps..
Thanks for using 2carpros.com!

Thanks for the quick response! I did not test the relay for voltage, but I can feel it clicking when the ignitiion is turned on.

You said to follow the provided link to test the relay, but I don't see a link...can you repost?

Thanks!

Hehe, sorry about that. Here is to link. I forgot the paste it last time..

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm

Fuses good
Getting gas
Starter good
Battery good
My 97 chevy suburban will not start it will crank & sounds Strong while doing so but it will not actouly start & run.
It also is over runing when I turn the key off the motor rocks like its still trying to turn.
I know this could be Timing but is there any thing else it could be?

Hello,

How was it running prior to it not starting?

When was last tune-up/ Plugs, Cap and Rotor? A corroded Cap and rotor will cause similar conditions.

Did the engine light come on at anytime?

Try this locate TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and Disconnect, then try to start. If starts replace TPS.

Post results.....

The ignition timing is not adjustable.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Chevy Suburban V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi there,
The problem I have is the car will fire up . runs for a little while then dies and refuses to start again , unless left for a while.
It first did this at a set of traffic lights , but finally fired after about twenty mins. Drove the car forward at this point but when I touched the brakes it cut out . Had to leave for a while before it would start.
Car was taken by low-loader to garage and they reckoned it was the coil. Fitted new one , but this did not sort the problem. Mechanics seem a bit stumped . Must add - they are stumped because I am in Scotland and they have not dealt with Chevys before !
Any advice of how to cure this would be gratefully received .
Thanks
Pete

Get the fuel pressure check and test the fuel pump relay

Hi there,
Thanks for prompt reply.
I will pass information on to the garage when they come back from holiday , and then hopefully I can get my car back !!

Thanks again
Pete

So my truck stopped getting fuel and I replaced the pump and it started and got about 2 miles down the road and it stalled and wouldn't start again. I noticed that my ground had broke to the pump so I repaired that and replaced the pump but it is still not running there is no gas getting to the engine. I was thinking it might be the sending unit but before I replace it I was hoping for some advice. I tested the sending unit and not all wires were getting power. But electrical is my weak point so. and I replaced the filter a short while before the pump.

check your fuel pump relay under hood and it's the gray wire leading to pump to power it. also check fuses under hood as well as fusible links by starter.