Engine stalling at idle?

Hi.
A couple things can cause this type of problem. Can you tell me if the check engine light is staying on?

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know about the light, but to be honest, it is usually one of two things, a vacuum leak or a bad idle air control valve (IAC). The IAC, located on the throttle body, is responsible for maintaining the engine idle speed. This is one symptom of its failure.

Let me know about the light.

No check engine light, ever.

I suspect either the IAC is going bad or there is an engine vacuum leak.

My check engine light came on.

When I come to a stop sign, the rpm drops to 500 and then the engine wants to die.

otherwise, the engine runs fine.

It sounds like a bad throttle position sensor (TPS). If the check engine light is on, take the car to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. Most will do it for free, and then you will know for sure what is causing the problem.
Or if you would like to conduct the scan yourself here is a link to an article from this site that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us with the code number(s) so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Help.. Our 1995 Explorer runs great, aside for the fact that it dies randomly. Normally when you let off the gas ( coasting to stop ) Other times after braking to turn, it will die ( steering locks ) Each time you are able to put it in neutral and it starts right up.
So far we have replaced EGR valve, it did not help much.. then the fuel filter, and just now the fuel pump, all to no avail...
Now it has started dieseling up and down, which it did not do before. Oh yeah we changed the vacuum hose as well.
Any ideas on what this could be??

It could be many things. Has the check engine light come on? As far as the idle going up and down, it sounds like a idle air control valve issue.

Let me know.

Joe

OMG! You are Great!
We had to order this part, under $100 - took under 3 minutes to put on, and easy to get to.
Not only did it fix the problem, but also the check
engine light went off.
Its been two days, and it has not died once and we have driven the heck out of it.
Thank you so very much!
Trust me, we will recommend you to anyone, and will be back if we have any other problems!

Great, I'm glad that you fixed it, and you are welcome. I'm glad to help.

Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

Engine will start and die when below 0 unless you step on the accelerator but will idle once it warms up some at 90 degrees or hotter it will not idle unless you keep your foot on the accelerator all the time

Try cleaning the idle air control valve

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service then check coolant temp sensor for resistance.

Engine Performance problem
1995 Ford Explorer V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic

I just replaced the fuel pump on my Explorer. Now the gas pedal seems stiff when I first press it, like it is stuck. My other problem is that when I slow down to make a turn it feels like it is going to stall.

The pump isn't related to the gas pedal. As far as the engine idle when turning, has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Have you double checked the fuel pressure incase the regulator is bad?

Thank you for your response.
The check engine light was on before the fuel pump was replaced. The code was EGR related. I did not notice any vacuum leaks but will check again. No I have not checked the fuel pressure. Do you know what the reading should be?

I believe it should be between 35 and 45 psi. Since the check engine light came on, have you had the computer scanned?

I had the fuel pressure check and had it scanned too. The fuel pressure was ok and the only thing the scan showed was a bad O2 sensor. I already knew that though, the check engine light has been on for a while but I have not had this issue.

94 Ford Explorer XLT - 147000, stalls when i'm driving or stop at a traffic light, replaced Ignition Switch and IAC (Idle Air Control Valve), do you think will that be enough to prevent stalling, i appreciate your replies.

thnx
mark

Changed IAC and Ignition Switch, but today morning it started fine but when i drove a mile for work rested it for 5 mins and restarted it dint, but then started again after 15 mins, do you think is it the problem with fuel pump?

thnx,
mark

Was anything done with the EGR? Also, are you aware the O2 sensor could be causing the engine to run this way?

yes it could be a fuel pump problem but first look at the vacuum lines at the back drivers side of the upper intake plenum. they get soft and leak or fall off which can cause your symptoms

My mistake the code was for the O2 sensor. I am going to replace it and see if that helps.

I had the same type of problem in my 1993 Explorer. It turned out to be a bad electronic engine controls relay. It is a small box relay under the hood in the relay/fuse box.
Good luck.

Transmission problem
1994 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive 200000 miles

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer. It runs great in park and in neutral but as soon as I put it in gear it shuts right off. There were no warning signs it just shut off at a red light. It starts up great and the engine is running true. When I engage it into gear (forward or reverse) it slightly bucks and shuts right off. Any help? I am truely lost and this is my only vehicle. I need to fix it fast.

[quote:f0909d0e42="KeithK32060"]Transmission problem
1994 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive 200000 miles

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer. It runs great in park and in neutral but as soon as I put it in gear it shuts right off. There were no warning signs it just shut off at a red light. It starts up great and the engine is running true. When I engage it into gear (forward or reverse) it slightly bucks and shuts right off. Any help? I am truely lost and this is my only vehicle. I need to fix it fast.[/quote:f0909d0e42]

This sounds like your torque converter is not unlocking as it should. This is a mechenical problem with the transmission, and not a quick fix. Sorry.

Car was running very well up until Friday afternoon. My wife had iit and she said that when she started it something popped and she saw some smoke from under the hood. Now it won't idle correctly. Drives OK at around 1200-1500 RPM but tends to want to cruise at around 1200 when you take your foot off the gas. When you stop at a light, it will sometimes drop to less than 500 RPM and stall and need to be restarted. Then when you shift it into gear it is idling too fast and slams the transmission into gear. (not good)

I think something electrical burned up Friday. Hope it's not the computer. What are the other possibilities if any?

The check engine light is probably on? Reading the code(s) is the first step here, here's how:
Jump the two termnals shown together and turn key to "ON" and count the flashes... a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the key on engine off, then again with it running.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

My truck is stalling out for some reason at lights or stop every now and then. Could be a IAC problem, fuel pump, or maybe a gas filter issue?


Howard

Is the engine stopping like there is a power failure? I had this happen to me and I replaced the engine controls relay under the hood in the fuse/relay box.

My 92 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer edition was running fine when I left town last week, but when I got back and started it up, the engine was running very choppy and making a revving sound when idle. If left in park, it now stalls. If idle at a light it gets really choppy, but hasn't stalled yet. I have been putting it into neutral when at lights, which makes it run less choppy.

I am not very familiar with this vehicle, as I just purchased it. Does this sound like a transmission problem? I'm about to take it in for an oil change, and I know they are going to bring up something else. I'd just like to know what that could be so they don't take me for all I have!

Thanks for any help you can give!

[quote:37868d8d37="curtisrshideler"]Engine Performance problem
1992 Ford Explorer 6 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 170000 miles

My 92 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer edition was running fine when I left town last week, but when I got back and started it up, the engine was running very choppy and making a revving sound when idle. If left in park, it now stalls. If idle at a light it gets really choppy, but hasn't stalled yet. I have been putting it into neutral when at lights, which makes it run less choppy.

I am not very familiar with this vehicle, as I just purchased it. Does this sound like a transmission problem? I'm about to take it in for an oil change, and I know they are going to bring up something else. I'd just like to know what that could be so they don't take me for all I have!

Thanks for any help you can give![/quote:37868d8d37]

Are there any other symptoms? Is coolant level OK, and not losing coolant? Is there any smoking?

If all else is OK, I would suggest checking for trouble codes. Other possible suspects - EGR leakage, spark plug misfiring, coil pack and ignition wiring.

I have two major issues and I am not sure if they are connected or two separate issues. the first one is overheating it tends to overheat while going at slow speeds in traffic, but also sometimes on the freeway. My other issue is stalling and shutting off mostly after it has been driven for a while and then in stop-and-go traffic, it stalls out every time I take my foot off the gas and it is either while driving or sitting and idling. things I have replaced since I bought the truck are the thermostat, mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor ,fuel filter, idle air control valve, and it also seems to be leaking transmission fluid but not visibly. I recently took the thermostat out and have been driving without it and it seems to still overheat without the thermostat in place. Could anyone please help me to figure out what is wrong with my vehicle?

Hello,

When the engine is over heating can you hear the fan clutch kick in, it sounds like a small airplane is next to you so it is noticeable. If not then the fan clutch needs to be replaced. Here is a guide to help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fan-clutch-removal

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please let us know what happens, we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

I am a poor student and own an old Ford explorer(134K miles,4D, 2WD,auto transmission). Recently,I did oil change and then a new problem appeared. when I started my car, the engine speed gauge showed around 1500 rpm with the noise. But when I loosed the key, the engine speed was suddenly shown a sharp jump down to below 300 and the engine sound also almost disappeared. Mostly, the engine quited working and sometimes the idling speed automatically jumped up to over 800 rpm in half second. And I could feel the shaking of the car at “P” gear. I searched on website about this issue.someone thinks it is because the idle air control motor failed to work? what do you expert think about my situatioin? How much if I have to replace it(part? labor?) Please help me, I really expect and appreciate any advice from you.

The Idle Air Control Valve will definately do that-that's your 1st area to look at. Who knows taking it out and cleaning with carb cleaner will fix it. See below for location

Hi Rasmataz, many thanks for you reply. I will go to see mechanic this week. Before I go, I would like to know how much this IAC part will cost and also how long labor for replacing it, could you please send me some ideas? I am so upset to repair my truck so often. Again, Thank you very much!

Base on today's market dunno about the labor-it varies on locations $60-120.00 per hr.

Price:1995 95 Ford Explorer Idle Air Control Valve

Amount: $92.79 shop around for the cheapest shop-if not attempt to take it and clean it out-might save the money for the kids for Christmas.

Thank you very much. I will keep you informed.:->

Please! do so you're one of our valuable customer and feel free to tell friends and families about 2carpros.com Thank You

Rasmataz,you are great! Finally, I went to autozone to buy a new one($61) and replaced the old one in a garage ($30). Though I feel a little bit upset because I could have replaced it by myself when I saw they replaced it so easily! Anyway, the problem has been solved. Hope the information is helpful for other people. Thank you, Rasmataz.

Btw, they told me that the upper ball joint (with arms) on the left front side is bad today. I am just wondering WHEN I have to replace it. This old car already ate me too much money. I mean, in what bad situation, I DO have to replace it? Now there is no any noise from there when I drive. I appreciate it!