Ignition switch

1995 FORD F-150
55,600 MILES • 4.9L • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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DRAGONAK2020
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L4.9 inline six. People who owned before me lost the key. Instead of drilling out and replacing the ignition switch, they dropped the ignition actuator module out from under the steering column and left it dangling, but you could manually operate the actuator and the truck would start, run, shift normally. I don't know what else they did to it but I seem to recall the steering lock did not function. No warning light or check engine light. I decided to put in a new ignition switch by drilling out the old one and put the actuator back into place. The truck would start but not shut off. I took the actuator back down. The key now has no detents and will not move past the "on" position. Buzzer will sound when I put key in the ignition with the door open. I let the truck sit all winter. In the spring I replaced the tires and wheels, and put in an aftermarket stereo. The next day I went out to start the truck , which it did, but would not come out of Park. Even reefing on it pretty hard. I tried removing the shift lock actuator on top of the steering column, put it back together, and still won't come out of Park. And now the shift indicator is sitting on "L." But it will start. The dome light and brake lights work normally. The truck has been parked on a slight rear incline for more than a year. If you pull on the shifter you can get it to go into Reverse, but it's not actually "falling into the notch.." It won't stay there, it's just slop in the linkage.. Non-tilt. Truck listed above is the XL model. Yes, I would like some help/break down information or possible clues to what might be going on. Honestly, if I could just get the shifter problem solved, I don't mind just using the actuator to start it. But I would like to hear what's involved in making the actual keyed ignition working. It sounds pretty involved.
May 21, 2020 at 8:41 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, I've rebuilt a few Ford columns and it is involved. I've attached 2 pictures below showing all the components involved. Is the actual steering column housing damaged or can replacement parts be fitted? Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
May 24, 2020 at 2:09 AM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Honestly, I'm not looking to completely rebuild the steering column. It's an old DOT truck, but I would like to keep it as it only has 55,000 miles. It's possible the ignition key cylinder housing was damaged when I drilled out the old cylinder although I don't know for sure. I didn't see any damage when I removed the cylinder although the lock pin on the bottom does not seem to be functioning properly now - it looks like it's stuck in the "up" position. If I could just find out why the shift lever is now locked in park and get the gear shift working, I would be happy to keep using the ignition actuator to start the truck.

From what I've read, two things need to happen for the shifter to move - foot on brake, and ignition to "on" position (in this case the actuator). Since the brake lights work properly, I'm assuming the brake light switch is working properly. I read a forum which said to make sure there were no blown fuses (like say, the air bag fuse) and said the truck could have a blown fuse and gone into "safety mode" (whatever that means). The other thing is the new key cylinder - even though it's not connected to anything, the key buzzes when it is inserted with the door open. I wonder if it might be causing some kind of shift interlock to engage. I will try to remove the cylinder to see if it has any effect. I will also check the fuses.

One other thing, on the steering column, there is a slot with a Teflon slider where the ignition actuator pin fits into. This slider (as I recall, before putting the new ignition cylinder in) would move freely back and forth (as it should, I assume - it's the mechanism the key cylinder uses to move the actuator pin). Now - the slider won't budge.

I removed the "shift interlock" solenoid and pawl on top of the steering column, but to no effect. I've seen conflicting descriptions of this part online, calling it the "shift interlock" and another that describes it as the "neutral safety switch".. can you identify it properly? I will attach a photo.

One last question - can you tell me if there is some other interlock (other than the one I removed) than this one that would lock the shifter into park? Is there one in the transmission? Or is it somewhere else on the steering column?
May 24, 2020 at 12:36 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Well, now I'm reading this interlock is what allows the shifter to come out of Park when the brake is depressed. The shifter worked fine before I replaced the cylinder. I guess I could try replacing the solenoid with a new one, but something tells me it isn't faulty.
May 24, 2020 at 12:43 PM
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CJ MEDEVAC
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Do your brake lights come on when you push the brake pedal?

I posted a shift interlock diagram from "Prodemand".

Keep us updated!

The Medic
May 26, 2020 at 12:14 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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The brake lights work, so it's not the brake light switch. I checked the fuses for the interlock (actually I checked all the fuses in the fuse box under the dash), they were all good. I'm going to assume the shift interlock is necessary to get the truck out of park. The only explanation I can come up with is somehow the power to the interlock was interrupted for some reason. The only change was trying to replace the key ignition cylinder. A friend suggested the interlock failed, but that seems far fetched to me.

Thank you for the diagram. I'm going to try a few things, maybe install a new shift interlock. I'll let you know how things go.
May 26, 2020 at 12:20 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Sorry, It's been a few days for response due to holiday weekend.. The slider you speak of should be plastic with a key response for your key switch and heavily greased. It should slide up and down the column without hesitation. Can you use your phone to take a picture close up of the ignition switch housing on the steering column and all components for me to inspect damage. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros
May 27, 2020 at 2:24 AM
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DRAGONAK2020
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I will get some photos for you as soon as I can. thank you for your response! And yes the slider will not budge..
May 27, 2020 at 3:14 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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I also ordered new new shift interlock/solenoid and I'm waiting for that to arrive.
May 27, 2020 at 3:15 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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I really need to get this truck going, it's a good truck and I really need to get it going. thank you for being engaged, it means a lot to me.
May 27, 2020 at 3:19 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Sorry for the poor quality of the pix/video.
May 27, 2020 at 4:52 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

If you remove the ignition switch you can take the top plastic cover off exposing the shifter assembly.. I've done a bunch of repairs on these.Take a picture of the top column area with the shift assembly with your phone and upload here again and I can highlight a few areas of concern.Also, It looks like the column has been apart before. I've re attached one of your pictures.One of the tilt column levers are missing or not put back in.I circled the area in red.These are hard to install so that is understandable to be missing. Taking the column apart to access that slider is not too hard.It should move freely and you've mentioned it's binding.Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros and get back to me as soon as you can.

Danny-
May 29, 2020 at 11:40 AM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Truck is an XL, there is no tilt mechanism.
May 29, 2020 at 11:01 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Were you able to remove the ignition switch from the column to be able to remove the top plastic cover to gain access to the shifter mechanism? After you do so and take pictures of the top side of column under the removed plastic cover I can give you an idea of whats wrong. I can also explain how to take apart your non tilt column to fix the slider if interested.Thanks again for using 2CarPros and will await your response hopefully with the pictures.

Danny-
May 30, 2020 at 1:58 AM
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DRAGONAK2020
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It might be a couple of days but I will try to remove the ignition switch and the top cover, and send photos of the upper side of the column.. thank you again for your assistance.
May 30, 2020 at 7:31 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

To remove the ignition switch use a pointed object like a pick,awl,or small screw driver to depress the release button which I've circled in red and attached below from your pictures above.When you insert the key you will find the position when you cycle the key and it will release.You can then remove the plastic top cover. I've also attached another picture below of what the shifter assembly looks like.Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.
May 31, 2020 at 3:48 AM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Thank you for this information. I should be able to disassemble soon, will update when I have it apart. thank you very much.
May 31, 2020 at 9:11 AM
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DANNY L
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You're welcome!
Get back to me when you can with the pictures and we'll go from there.Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
May 31, 2020 at 11:22 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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I attempted to remove the ignition lock cylinder and was unable. I pushed on the unlock pin with the key in the ignition in dn ON position. The clynder would not come out..
Jun 7, 2020 at 5:40 PM
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CJ MEDEVAC
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Just a little nudge from my end!

Insure you remove the negative cable off of the battery before we begin!

Key to "on",

Depress the pin (maybe a shot of WD-40 in the hole) work it in and out a bit, hopefully gaining more push! A squirt around the bezel and the big hole (the whole cylinder will go into) might free stuff up.

Wiggle/ Jiggle the key and cylinder slightly while remaining in the "on" position and pulling outward.

Here's a good one:

When you do get it out and before you start into the Moon walking/ Cheer leading/ Self praising routine in front of your pals,

Lets check one important thing out,

Did the gear (that moves the assembly) stick to the end of the old lock cylinder? Or not?

It will have to go back on the new one exactly as it (might) be stuck on the old one. It may still be in place inside the column. Never hurts to look in there with a penlight to insure it is where it should be!

Did it fall off somewhere during the process?

(This happened to another feller, his gear bounced under the seat and was hid among the parts under there, he didn't realize it was missing-it was a bad few hours for several of us looking for it).

Another no-no is to "play" with the new switch before it is installed. Most are plainly marked not to turn them until they are 100% seated in place.

Okay, back to the bleachers I go!

The Medic
Jun 7, 2020 at 7:54 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Yes, I agree with my colleague says. Also, have you had a change to take pictures of the top of the column with the shift linkage?

Danny-
Jun 7, 2020 at 8:03 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Something to remember here is the shift lock mechanism is currently removed.. would this affect removing the ignition cylinder??
Jun 7, 2020 at 10:01 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

No, that shouldn't make a difference. Giving you a hard time for removal?

Danny-
Jun 7, 2020 at 10:13 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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yes..

I will try again..
Jun 7, 2020 at 10:22 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Okay. As I stated before just use something small and sharp to depress the button while cycling the cylinder with the key inserted. Pull the cylinder outward while doing so.Hope this helps and we will get through this.Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
Jun 7, 2020 at 10:47 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Okay, I'm still trying to get the key cylinder out. Unfortunately I'm beginning to suspect that the cylinder detent pin may have been damaged when the old cylinder was drilled out. The reason I say that is the the detent pin is in the depressed position, and there is no "spring" to it. You can actually see this in one the photos I sent. I will keep trying to remove it but I may have to drill this one out too.

A couple more questions - is there an end game after the cylinder is out as far as being able to shift out of park? Does the Teflon have something to do with it. Would I be able to just leave the key cylinder out and start the truck with the ignition module?

Secondly, would it make more sense to get a steering column from the salvage yard and swap them out? I don't know what's involved in that. I just need to be able to get it out of park, I can live without the ignition switch (unless there's some kind of interlock involved)..
Jun 11, 2020 at 9:07 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Tried again to get the key out. I tried the key in every possible position. It will not budge. Will probably have to drill this out too, if that is the only option at this. I will also reinstall the shift lock and solenoid. This may take a while to do. Will send photos afterwards.
Jun 12, 2020 at 11:22 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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"Meant to say "Tried again to get the key cylinder out..."
Jun 12, 2020 at 11:22 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Sorry to hear you are having such problems.If the pin is depressed Something must be binding up in the column not allowing the plastic slide or the cylinder to move.Yes, the end game is to get the cylinder out to access and see what is binding everything up.Also you mentioned picking up a used column assembly. You can do that as well if you can get a good deal on one.I would done that as a last resort if the cylinder removal can't be removed in a timely manner.I know you're trying to get back on the road. Okay, send photos of any progress to view.Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
Jun 13, 2020 at 11:22 AM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Okay.. I'm going to drill this one out.. will be back with photos once the cover is off the top of the column..
Jun 13, 2020 at 2:55 PM
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DANNY L
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Sounds good.
I'll be looking for the pictures once you send. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
Jun 13, 2020 at 3:20 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Drilling operation... attempted to do this same way as before, see photos... last time, once the tumbler pins were gone, the cylinder rotated and came out fairly easily. I've gotten to the same point here, but the cylinder still won't come out.. even used pliers to turn and pull; doesn't matter if detent button is pushed or not.. YT instructions said not to drill all the way through the cylinder to avoid damaging the socket.. I think it's past that point, honestly...
Jun 13, 2020 at 9:39 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Sounds like you're having a heck of a time.When I've done it before I drill a lot deeper.I used a cobalt titanium bit so it ate through it in a few minutes.Once it hit the sweet part the remaining part of the cylinder just fell apart in pieces.After that I used compressed air from my shop air to blow the shavings and pieces out. Also, Have you tried using a punch and hammer to knock the depress pin in? It won't be damaging it due to you buying a new assembly.Once done the cylinder piece I've circled in red should come out. The greenish area is part of the column it fits into.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros
Jun 14, 2020 at 12:26 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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I will keep going and drill farther.. yes this has been difficult.. trying to keep a positive outlook... if all else fails I will punch out the detent pin... thanks for sticking with me..
Jun 14, 2020 at 3:09 PM
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CJ MEDEVAC
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We try to cheer everybody on!

I made this pic a good while back for somebody else in a different rig.

Maybe it will aid you somehow.

The Medic
Jun 14, 2020 at 3:44 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Yes! We are here for you.. Keep us updated as to how the drilling and removal attempt is going.Hope to hear back soon with progress.

Danny-
Jun 14, 2020 at 7:22 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Guys, I just wanted to check back in with you. I had to take a trip and then was a bit under the weather for awhile and haven't been able to spend a lot of time on the truck. But I have some new photos for you.

I have not yet finished drilling out the lock or replacing the shift interlock. But I did manage to get the top cover removed from the steering column. I'm not sure whether you meant for the steering column to be dropped while doing this. There are earlier photos of the dropped steering column. So here are some photos of the top of the un-dropped steering column.

Also, there is a photo of the shift indicator cable and it appears the plastic mount popped out when I dropped the column earlier. I do not know what part of the column this white plastic piece mounts to..

thanks again for your assistance in this...

Chris

Jul 2, 2020 at 1:51 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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Finally got the lock cylinder out. Had to drill it to the stem. Luckily no damage to the socket area. Once drill bit reached the stem the inner cylinder came right out. Once the inner cylinder came out, I was able to push the retaining pin up and out, then the cylinder housing came right out as well. Grabbed the remaining part of stem with needle nose pliers, twisted and pulled for 20 minutes but couldn't get it out. May have just not aligned the stem with the "keyhole..." See annotated photos for comments. Will try again after 4th of July weekend. have a great 4th and will check in again when I can. it's fishing season in Alaska and I have salmon to catch (and eat!).
Jul 2, 2020 at 8:05 PM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

Glad to hear you've made progress... Still a few steps to go. I've reattached a few pictures from both you and I.In the first picture you sent you still have a small piece of the switch in there.That green plastic clip can be removed.Once removed there is a small metal plate that is removable after the green clip is removed.After those are removed you get the remainder of the tip of the switch out.That tip from your old switch is what makes contact with the Teflon bar you spoke of. After removing all the things you should clean all the debris and metal shavings to make things move freely.That Teflon bar should move freely and that piece is what transfers mechanical action from the key switch to the actuator. I've circled in red and attached the pictures below.Have a great 4th weekend and get back to me when you can.Catch a beauty for me as I've been an angler my whole life fishing in the California High Sierra's.Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
Jul 3, 2020 at 11:28 PM
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DRAGONAK2020
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One last quick question; what is this reference mark for?
Jul 4, 2020 at 12:32 AM
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DANNY L
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Hello again.

That should be where the actuator tab or pin plugs into. I've reattached a photo of yours and circled the tab or pin and circled in red. Keep me updated as to your progress.Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
Jul 4, 2020 at 4:43 AM