Engine will not start up?

take a wire from one end of the solenoid adn touch the other wire, does it crank?

you getting voltage at the one terminal with key off?

Yes it cranks, i also took a wire from the solenoid to the battery and it cranks and starts perfectly so the solenoid must be good does that mean its just the wire or cause the check engine light is on or could it be the ignition?

u know what i Thank You for all you're help. I got one last question i decided to say forget it since its not simple and i know nothing about cars im just gonna wait till a month till i move to virgnia and my brother in law can fix it. My question is if i do what i did, connecting a wire from the solenoid small wire to the battery and get someone to turn the key so it will start. for like a month and a half Will that damage anything?

nope, basically by doing that your bypassing the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch for the starter circuit.

just make sure its not in gear when you attempt to do this or you may get ran over.

We were driving on the highway and as we got off the exit the vehicle just died and we can't get it started we have since replaced the fuel pump and that still didn't work it does turn over and there is spark from the pump what else can we try please help

Ok, what i did was ran a wire from the small wire on the solenoid (i split the cable) and ran that inside the car. Then i took a wire from the battery and ran it through to the car. now when i turn the key and connect the 2 cables it starts perfectly. It's a quick fix till my brother-in law can fix it pernemently, im gonna buy a switch so i don't have to mess around connecting the cables. but the problem is resolved and it didn't cost me a dime, when i didn't know anything about cars. Thank you for you're help man even tho i did not donate if i could afford it i would. Thanks again.

Does the fuel pump run? Turn on the key, and listen for a couple of seconds of the pump running. If not, try replacing the fuel pump relay (under the hood). That's all I know.

glad to have helped.

hopefully it gets all fixed up right and cheap. shouldnt be too big of a project.

Recently the car would not start in cold weather. When it did start, it ran fine. Then we replaced the battery and the car cranked twice and then died and would not start. We had it towed to the shop today and they said it was the fuel pump and fuel filter. They replaced it and we picked it up and drove it probably less then 15 miles and when we went to crank it back up, it sputtered and died. Now it wont crank at all. Does anyone have an educated guess as to what this might be?

Rather than a theory, I need you to check something. If the car won't start, it is most likely missing spark of fuel. I need you to check for both so I can give you a better idea of what you are dealing with.

Here are the how to's for you.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe

We had an anti theft lockout so went thru suggestions to clear that work then came to find out battery died not have enough juice to turn it over although it tried put a new battery in the two days ago will turn over but will not start was running fine before all this started to happen .... someone suggested crank then said coil sorry not good with this stuff I am female learning stuff as I go without trying to be ripped off the mechanic

HI:

Is the anti theft light indicating it is active? If not, chances are it is an ignition or fuel issue. And yes, it is odd that it happened this way.

Here are a few links that you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

The second and third links explain how to test for spark and fuel to the engine. For me, the easiest way to check both easily is to see if the engine starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know it is a fuel related issue. If it fails to even start for a couple seconds, chances are it is an ignition issue.

Give this a try and let me know if it helps. Also, if you have other questions, don't be afraid to ask.

Take care,
Joe

When turning the key on, you can normally hear the fuel pump start for about 2 seconds. Intermittantly the pump doesn't start and then the engine won't start. A few minutes to an hour or so later it may work ok. The engine has shut down while driving also (appears that the fuel flow has stopped). The fuel pump relay has been replaced twice, no apparent change. Very intermittant. Fuel pump is good. Gut feel points to an electrical connection somewhere (old, dirty, loose, etc), but have no clue where I might start looking.

I believe most Fords have a "rollover" switch in the rear area (trunk, or near rear end), which shuts off fuel in case of rollover.

I would start there.

car cranks but wont start. Sparkplugs are firing fine. Had it tested and they said that they couldnt get any codes off the computer. I had replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine for about 2-3 weeks then it started again. It would run rough, cut off while driving, and would run good for a while then not start. took it to another mechanic and he said that the fuel pump was bad and wasnt getting enough gas pressure. replaced that fuel pump and it ran good for 2-3 weeks and it ran rough at start twice then hasnt started since. still crank and it is still firing but it wont start. I also replaced the egr valve but that did nothing. Dont know if its the fuel regulator or if the ECM is bad. How do I check to find out? It's a 94 and nobody seems to be able to test or check any car on the old system.

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs and also make sure the injectors are pulsing start here

fuel pressure is low (20-25 with spikes that hit 30 but drop)

Too low-double check the injectors/fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump check valve if its leaking

Engine Performance problem
1994 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

My truck occasionally will not start,
I can go 30 to 40 starts , no problem, then without anything different nothing. Engine cranks, but does not start.
But after a series of attempts it will start.
I can go 2, 3, or 4 weeks before it happens again.

If I had to guess, I would say the EEC relay is going bad. When it doesn't work, it shuts down the fuel pump and spark to the engine. When this happens, can you hear the fuel pump prime? Have you ever checked for spark?

Here is what to do. Under the hood is a relay box. when you open it, the lid will identify what each relay is for. Identify the EEC (electronic engine control) relay and pull it out. There will be a part number on it. Next, find another relay in the box that has the same part number (or just buy one. They are cheap). When the problem happens, switch the EEC relay with a known good relay and see if it starts. If it does, replace the relay.

Let me know if this helps.
Joe

I am having a problem starting my vehicle after it has set for a time. The things I have done fuel pressure with Key on Engine off 35psi key on engine running 30psi. I have check for fuel available after it sits and fuel is present at the rail on the injectors. Switched reelays around to see if any difference and there is not. I have checked and ignition fire is present.

If you have spark and fuel, it should run. There are two things I need you to check. First, switch the EEC relay (under hood) with a different relay with the same part number to see if that helps. Next, when it doesn't start, check to make sure the injectors are getting power to transfer the fuel from the fuel rail to the engine. See if it will start with starting fluid when it happens.

Let me know what you find.

squirt some gas in intake and see if it fires up for a second or 2.

I have replaced both the EEC Relay and the fuel pump relays. I have also tried starting fluid and it does not help. Check engine light is not on as I continually crank it will backfire and eventually start and run very rough until the temp comes up then it runs fine and will start fine until it is allowed to sit and cool off.

it does

I have to say I am disappointed in the slow or no response.

NOT REAL GREAT ON THESE NEWER PUPPIES

SOUNDS LIKE A SPARK ISSUE, IF THE STARTER FLUID WAS NOT AN INSTANT "BUST OFF"

HOW LONG AGO SINCE IT HAD NEW "PROPERLY GAPPED" PLUGS AND OTHER IGNITION RELATED TUNE-UP PARTS?

I TRY

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

what about codes? have you tried reading them? sounds like it's too lean on startup. check temp sensor and clean MAF if it's dirty.

For about 4-5 months my Ford Explorer would sporadically turn off, but would turn on again after a good 15-20 minute cool down. Just recently, the car turned off and wouldnt' start up again at all.

I had the fuel pump replaced, but that didn't help.

I tested to see if the fuel pump engaged, and it did, but when I test to see if fuel will squirt out of that test valve on the engine (not sure what its called), very little pressure comes out, and this was the case the whole time I had this car ( I bought it used ).

Recently, i've had suspicion that it would be the Crank shaft position sensor?

Any opinions?

Also, i'd like to note that I bought a car repair manual and went ahead and tested the the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector with the voltmeter and got 0 volts with the Key on and engine off, so I assume this is the problem.

Would a bad CKP (crankshaft positon sensor) be the problem for my issues?

new fuel pump ,fuel lines and filter all sensors checked ok on scan.fuel pressure at rail goes no higher then 30 psi.Also does the fuel enter or exit the fuel rail through the pressure regulator?

The fuel pressure is good. Do me a favor... When this happens, open the hood and switch the EEC relay with another one from the relay box that has the same part number. I have had situations where the relay wouldn't work when warm.

Let me know if it works.

Hi and thank you for answering I already tried that i should have put that in my question.We even replaced the pcm.when it happens if i release the pressure from the rail the truck will start

Is the regulator working?

Yes it is we actually replaced it with a known good one just in case it was bad.even left the pressure guage on it held 30 psi for over 6 hours.. Im thinkiing maybe the garage accidentally switched the feed and return lines to the rail when they replaced them. Do you know if the fuel flows into or out of the rail at the regulator?

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer that gives a code 341 and will only fire for a brief second on initial startup. Things I have already done: 1)New battery and clean terminals. 2)Relays checked ok. 3) changed fuel filter.
4) Fuel pressure holds at 40 psi during cranking. 5)get spark at coil on all three banks of coil while cranking. 6) tested 12v and signal at injector with logic probe-receiving both 12v and a signal during cranking. also tach on car works during cranking.
As a final note, car will run with starting fluid which leads me to believe some type of fuel injection problem. Any ideas?

updated 11-13-09

The fuel pressure stays at a constant 40psi. I also checked and bypassed the fuel reset button but still no luck.
NEXT?

With the key on and not in the start position, how much fuel pressure do you have?

Fuel pump weak. pressure is too low.
Thanks

WHat pressure is it? I looked everything up. Running, the pressure should be between 35 and 45PSI. Your original post said 40PSI. Has that changed?

Let me know.

My pressure gauge stayed at a constant 40psi. After tapping into the fuel rack with a known good fuel pump, the car is running. The tap block on my pressure guage has a check valve in it that I missed.