Car won't start

1994 CADILLAC SLS
215,000 MILES • V8 • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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LEWIS25
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I have 1994 Cadillac Seville SLS. I put another engine in it and now it won't start. The engine crank in the other car. I checked to see if it was firing but it wasn't.
Apr 8, 2011 at 1:15 PM
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JDL
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Sometimes you need to use computer from donor vehicle. Will the engine crank? Do you have a security system?
Apr 8, 2011 at 1:45 PM
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LEWIS25
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The engine won't crank. I changed every sensor on the engine and it is getting gas but no fire.
Apr 8, 2011 at 2:06 PM
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JDL
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Are you saying there is no spark at the plugs?

Your security system will kill the starter and injector pulse.
Apr 8, 2011 at 2:32 PM
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LEWIS25
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I used the alarm keypad to unlock the doors but it still won't start. Both engines were running before I swapped them.
Apr 8, 2011 at 3:03 PM
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JDL
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Was the engine out of the same year--make--model? The control system for the engine may not work, unless the computers are the same?

Check applicable trouble codes.
Apr 8, 2011 at 3:32 PM
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LEWIS25
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The engine came out of a 1996 Cadillac Sedan Deville.
Apr 8, 2011 at 3:34 PM
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JDL
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The computers don't show to be the same. I don't think it will work.
Apr 8, 2011 at 3:56 PM
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LEWIS25
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I swapped every sensor on the engine. Is there any way to make it work?
Apr 8, 2011 at 4:19 PM
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JDL
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Can you communicate with computer, check trouble codes? Can you get the computer from donor vehicle, don't know if everything will match-up, connectors, systems?

To check for codes, ignition on, press off and warmer buttons at the climate control center, at the same time. It should go into segment check, when it does release buttons, the codes should start to show up on the driver information center. Post the codes, me or somebody will talk to you.

Also, you can check the starter circuit at the starter, the purple wire at the starter solenoid S terminal should be hot with key in the crank position. If it isn't, you need to backtrack the circuit. Any testing at the starter, you need to make sure the tranny is in park or neutral and a functional e-brake is set.
Apr 8, 2011 at 5:19 PM
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LEWIS25
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It says P052, P109, i052, S036, S044, S060, S061, S062, and S070 all said history. P015, P055, T061 current. No ACP, No SIR, and PCM?.
Apr 8, 2011 at 6:09 PM
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JDL
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The p015 and p055, I know what they are, shouldn't have any effect on your starter circuit. I can't find the T061, don't know? I'll look some more.

I gave you the wiring info on your starter circuit, did you check it?
Apr 8, 2011 at 6:37 PM
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LEWIS25
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It turns over. It just won't crank.
Apr 8, 2011 at 6:41 PM
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JDL
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Cranking is starter action, so you saying it cranks good but won't start?

Engine cranking, do you have spark at the plugs and injector pulse? The po15 has to do with coolant temp sensor. The p055 has to do with throttle position sensor. I know you said you replaced all engine sensors, but, if the problem is on the wiring circuit somewhere, replacing parts won't fix it.
Apr 8, 2011 at 6:57 PM
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LEWIS25
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It does turn over good, it just won't start up. I checked the fire at each of the coils and neither one is firing.
Apr 8, 2011 at 7:03 PM
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JDL
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Did you check for primary voltage at the ignition module. Check ground also. Take connector loose from ignition module, key on, no need to crank. Use a testlite between pink wire and black wire at the harness connector. If the lite comes on, voltage and ground should be ok.
Apr 8, 2011 at 7:19 PM
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LEWIS25
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I checked it with a voltmeter and it has 11.94 volts.
Apr 8, 2011 at 7:33 PM
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JDL
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Same reading across battery posts? Some of the national brand autostores may be able to check ignition module for you. You can call and ask?
Apr 8, 2011 at 7:38 PM
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LEWIS25
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I called and none of them can check it.
Apr 8, 2011 at 7:44 PM
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JDL
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Do an ohms test on crank sensors, 800--1200 ohms, if they both test ok, replace the ignition module, because I don't know what else to tell you. I hate to see you throw parts at,but, I've gone about as far as I can.
Apr 8, 2011 at 8:08 PM
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LEWIS25
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How do I test them?
Apr 8, 2011 at 9:32 PM
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JDL
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You take the crank sensor connector loose from ignition module. Do an ohms test on the wiring terminals to the crank sensors.

If that checks out, with everything plugged into the ignition module. Turn the key on, at the ignition module, purple wire with white tracer is the 4x signal, should be 5 volts. The lite blue wire with black tracer is 24x signal, 5 volts.

Then, engine cranking, the 4x signal may go to 1.5--2volts. The 24x signal stays around 5 volts.
Apr 9, 2011 at 12:37 PM
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LEWIS25
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I got it to crank but it idles up and down.
Apr 9, 2011 at 2:21 PM
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JDL
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Off idle, open the throttle, how does it sound? You may need to clean the idle air control valve and passages. You could have a vacuum leak? Other than idle, is it driveable?
Apr 9, 2011 at 2:46 PM
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LEWIS25
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I didn't check because it stay's idled up to about 4,000 RPM's. When I try to give it some gas, it doesn't respond. It runs like the throttle is completely open but it's not.
Apr 9, 2011 at 3:06 PM
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JDL
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Take the throttle linkage loose, any difference? Block off the mouth of the throttle-body, any effect on the idle, that should kill it.

Check the tps and iac.

How did you get spark back?
Apr 9, 2011 at 3:15 PM
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LEWIS25
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Where is the iac valve located?
Apr 9, 2011 at 4:13 PM
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JDL
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Look for an idle air control motor. If you answered some of my questions, it might help a little?
Apr 9, 2011 at 4:37 PM
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LEWIS25
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The two crankshaft position sensors were backwards. I had the plug to sensor A on sensor B.
Apr 9, 2011 at 4:51 PM
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JDL
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Good catch.
Apr 9, 2011 at 5:00 PM
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LEWIS25
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I tried what you said but it still idles at about 4,000 RPM's.
Apr 9, 2011 at 7:33 PM
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LEWIS25
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When I cover the mouth of the throttle body completely, it still doesn't kill the motor and when I put it in gear, it idles at about 2,000 RPM,s.
Apr 9, 2011 at 11:07 PM
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JDL
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I guess I'd have to look at it? If you block the air inlet, it shouldn't run, It has to have air. Does inlet air go to the mouth of throttle-body? If air inlet goes elsewhere, block it.

With engine off, unplug idle air motor. Start engine, idle any different? I'm about out of ideas?
Apr 10, 2011 at 12:22 AM
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LEWIS25
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It runs like you're on the gas at all times. It doesnt want to stop when you press the brake but as far as the transmission goes, it shifts perfect but it idles so high, I have to put it in neutral and turn it off.
Apr 10, 2011 at 12:54 AM
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JDL
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Does the inlet air go to the throttle-body or elsewhere? I'm talking about the air inlet from the air filter, block it off. Did you unplug the idle air motor? Unplug the throttle positioner sensor. Do these one at a time with engine off, then start.
Apr 10, 2011 at 2:18 PM
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LEWIS25
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It goes to the throttle body on the intake. Unplugging the sensors doesn't change anything.
Apr 10, 2011 at 2:59 PM
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JDL
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If the engine isn't getting air, it can't run. It's getting air from somewhere.
Apr 10, 2011 at 3:37 PM
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LEWIS25
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I did the thing again to check the codes and the only one that was current was P132
Apr 10, 2011 at 4:07 PM
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JDL
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That is a knock sensor code. I don't think that will cause high-idle. I'd have to put a scanner on it, that will show live engine data, try to see what's going on.
Apr 10, 2011 at 5:04 PM
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JDL
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You could try tapping the block close to knock sensor, see if any effect on idle?

I've seen faulty cruise controls go crazy and the rpms would hit the roof. If you had everything disconnected from throttle-body, that shouldn't be an issue.
Apr 10, 2011 at 5:10 PM
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LEWIS25
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What do you suggest I do?
Apr 10, 2011 at 6:08 PM