1993 saturn sl2 5 spd, tranny leak

Are you sure its not a brown and white wire?Is there two wires going to your alternator plug?

nope it is a plug with only 1 wire attached to it and it attaches to the back of the motor below the knock sensor, it is either a yellow, tan or other lightly colored wire with a dark/black stripe on it. almost cdone with the assembly and cud have started the car if it hadnt been for that missing plug.

next to the knock sensor is the oil pressure sending unit is that plugged in?

yes that would be it, i just looked at a previous post that we had mentioning this unit and that is the plug that is missing off of the wire. would it be safe to start the car without it? or not rlly a good idea?

The only bad thing is you wont know if you have no or low oil pressure while its running.

ok, and i am guessing the chances of a low oil pressure mishap is increased having changed the oil pan seal, valve cover seal, and having taken the main pulley off? so it would be a little risky to start it. correct?

Yes especially the oil pan since there could have been silicone that have gotten into the oil pump hole on the front cover.

i am porbably going to attempt to make a different connector for the sendor to make the connection, hopefully shouldnt be too had being as how i work on computers and have access to small plugs that i would be able to crimp around the wire to attatch.

If not you will have to get a connector.

where wud be the best place to get a connector such as that? a junk yard perhaps? and is there a certain technical name for it?

I would say that pick a part would be the cheapest thats where i get all my connectors from.Its just called oil sending unit connector.

drove my car for the first time in 2 months today. desperately needs an alignment which i will be getting done on monday, everything seems like it is back to good working order, except the airbag light is on.. and a good wash after sitting for so long.

Glad to hear it whats up with the air bag light?Did you check the air bag fuse?

i have not checked the fuse yet but mind you we did replace the ignition starter switch and lock cylinder. possibility of being related in my mind.

Replacing just the ignition switch and the cylinder has nothing to do with air bag unless you did something crazy when you replaced them it should not have affected air bag at all.

well i just got off the phone with the local shop that is doing the alignment on the car and they said that the right wheel bearing has a little bit of play in it, and i know it is a pressed part. would it be possible to replace that in our garage with just hand tools?or would you reccommend that i pay the shop to replace it for me?

You can do it in the garage do you have a slide hammer with the hub puller attachment?Or you can rent one you will need to use that to remove the hub without axle thru the hub.You will also need a front wheel bearing press kit.You can get one at harbor frieght for around 100 its cheaper then paying someone to do it and it wont change your alignment and you get to keep the tool.If you use hand tools only on it make sure the forcing nut side always is on the bearing side pushing the bearing in or out.Also make sure you lube the threads up and the adapters and the tool works great.I bought one in a pinch and it worked great using those rules.

Oh you will also need a large pair of snap ring pliers to remove the bearing snap ring.As long as the bearing race doesnt get stuck on the hub when you remove it then it will be easy to reuse the hub.If you have a air cut off saw the round abrasive wheel kind you can carefully cut a groove in the race and use a screwdriver or cold chisel to split the race off the hub.

i have just called another shop and he advised me to just replace the wheel hub assembly, but i am confused for the abs/non abs aspect of ordering off of rock auto. this is the one i think i need> http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118727 < but others are cheaper and i have not had a chance to look at the front hub on my car to compare with the pictured part, being as how the alignment is getting done right now. i am just confused on which part to order. o reileys said they have one for 75$ that they wud have to have shipped in

So is the front or rear?Only the rear has a bearing hub assembly the front is a pressed in hub and pressed bearing.

i do believe he said it was the front assembly, in which case it wouldn't be worth buying the whole assembly i assume?

If its the front wheel were talking about there is no bearing hub assembly what they do sell is the bearing by itself or a kit that has a new hub and the seperate bearing its not part of the hub.When you replace the bearing in the front you press the bearing in and then you press thr hub into the bearing.The way i press the hub in line the hub up to bearing push it into the bear as far as i can with my hand with the axle thru the bearing.Then start the axle nut by hand without the washer give it a couple of turns with a breaker bar so the washer will fit on under the nut then tourque it down to spec and the hib is installed.

so this is a no shop remedy and the part that i need to install for bearing play is this? > http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1288355 < and when torquing down the axel nut i assume the transmission has to be in gear? and on another note do you know a quick way to fix a small leak in the sunroof? not rlly a priority right now just thought id ask as long as im replying. thanks again louie

That kit your posting has everything you could need if the hub comes out clean without the bearing race stuck to it then you wont need the hub in the kit but atleast you have it just in case.As far as tightening down the axle nut you will need to habe the rotor and caliper on and have someone step on the brakes to tighten it up.The most common reason for those sunroofs to leak is the front drains getting clogged up and then the water tray in the suroof over flows inside the car.What you want to do is remove is both those front kick panels that go on the inside body of the car and under them you will see a black square filler plug remove that.Under that is the sunroof drain hose you will see it plugged into the duct bill valve that fits into the body of the car that allows the water to exit the car.Remove that duct bill valve from the body of the car then take a razor blade and cut the duct bill valve off flush to the rest of the fitting so there is just pass thru hole left.Then put it back together do both sides.You should see all the stuff that is plugged up inside the valve causing you problems.Let me know how it comes out.Dont forget to use your 5 percent discount code on your order.

ok i have a front hub assembly kit on the way. update for electronic malfunction: the airbag light is on, fuse is good. horn does not work, fuse and relay good. and cruise control does not work and indicator light does not turn on.

Is the yellow air bag connector plugged in at the base of the column?Sounds like you could have a bad air bag coil all that stuff runs thru the air bag coil.Thats the clock spring as some people call but i call it that if the car doesnt have a air bag.Otherwise saturn calls it a sir coil.

is that coil a mechanical part or just electrical, when i drove the car for the first time after sitting, upon turning the wheel all the way to the left i heard a loud click and then the airbag light came on. i dont know if it is related.

Its electrical did you unhook the steering linkage from the rack and not have your steering wheel locked?Or maybe not had your wheels straight when you hooked up the steering linkage to the steering column?Did you take off the steering wheel for any reason with these last repairs you did?Sounds like your air bag coil got out of alignment some how and it was over turned too far one way and you broke it.

dang if its not one thing its the next right? is there a technical name of part to order, cuz ive looked for airbag coil and did not find it on rock auto.

Its also called sir coil or clock spring i recently found a website that sells factory parts reasonable that you can't find aftermarket.Here is the link to the part your looking for you can shop around though.Also before you order it make sure you take a ohms meter and make sure you don't have a connection thru the coil remove the air bag fuse and unplug the yellow harness at the base of the steering column and be really carefully when you remove the air bag.

i see no link posted to any site. the airbag is very delicate and being gentle and careful should be common sense for anyone who works on a car.

Sorry about that forgot to post the link.


http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=getPartLocator&siteid=2&chapter=DE8IB91§ionids=0,2659&groupid=2660&subgroupid=2579&componentid=4383&makeid=31&model=Sl%20Series&year=1993&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

seems like the last 3 things on the car to do list are all going to be rather expencive. especially that one little part.

Shop around and see if you can find it cheaper somewhere else.

i bought it off of that site you gave me. replaced the wheel bearing yesterday, did it at a friends place who had access to a press. still knockin a lil and have ordered control arm bushings for under the car.

If you removed the knuckle and pressed it in your going to need another alignment thats why i suggested the on car bearing press that i have.Because you can replace the bearing without changing the alignment.So what is knocking?

i think it is the control arm bushing, and we assembled the wheel area just as it came apart, there were markings where the strut was bolted on and we placed it in the exact spot.

The control arm bushing isnt sold seperatly from what i have seen you have to replace the whole lower control arm.

i saw several different part numbers that were listed as just the bushing. and it looks like it should be able to just slide on.

Is this the bushing where the lower control piviots on the subframe?Or where the sway bar goes thru?