Will not stay running and stalls while driving

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Based on your description, it sounds like you are losing injector pulse. That is the first thing I need you to check. When it stalls, do you lose injector pulse? Here is a link showing how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

If you find that the injector pulse is lost, then I would suspect an issue with the cam sensor. The cam sensor allows the ECM to properly time spark and fuel injection. Without it working, the engine will shut down. And, since it runs if you use starting fluid, that tells me there is no fuel getting to the engine. Make sure the fuel pressure does not drop off when started.

My determination, the current to the fuel pump is not allowed after initial start.
I ran a direct lead from battery to fuel pump, it runs, but not good.
But it will always start and shut off. Could I have purchased another bad crank sensor?

Hi. If it is doing the same exact thing, chances are that is not the issue. I did some schematic reading for the fuel system. There are two things I noticed. The fuel pump primes the pump when the key is first turned. It starts, then you lose power. There are two things I want you to check. First, a bad oil pressure switch will shut down the pump. Once the engine hits 400 rpm, there has to be a signal from that switch. Next, there is a 20 amp in line fuel control fuse. If that is bad, this can happen.

I attached a picture of the wiring schematic were these components are located. Take a look and let me know your thoughts.

Take care,
Joe

I tried to check injector pulse but it is difficult to do because the intake manifold covers them. I did check fuel pressure again, and it is okay. On the pump positive line I hooked up my meter and it continues to get power, as I start and then stalls. Now I think the injectors are not getting the signal to open and let the fuel pass through them. I am going to change my new crank sensor with another one, and I am going to add an additional ground wire from battery to the engine.will check back after I have done this. I want to thank you guys for your time in trying to help me figure this out. It has been an ongoing problem for a long time.

You need to remove at least one of the fuel injector connectors to see if there is power with the key one. Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Also, did you check all fuses in the car? Here is a guide and the fuse panel identifications. Check the ECM power relay as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken

1991 Chevy Cavalier mileage: lots. Car starts and runs fine in cold weather, but after driving for about five minutes, the engine stalls. It will crank but will not restart until the engine is cold again. Possible solutions greatly appreciated. Thanks very much.

When your car is cold, the computer is in “open loop.” As you engine warms up, the computer switches over to “closed loop.” In open loop, the computer has a set value for each of the sensors. In closed loop, it reads the sensors and makes adjustments. Obviously when your car is in closed loop one or several sensors are not working properly. An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Do below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

I own a 1991 Cavalier VL 2.2L with 205000km on the odometer. Recently the car has acquired a stalling problem. It started to stall intermittantly, but it would seem the problem has been getting worse. When it stalls, I have no warning. The check engine light also does not come on. Since the stalling problem first occurred, I have noticed somewhat erratic idling. One day when I start it, it will idle very low, the next quite high under similar conditions.
Originally, I replaced the idle air control valve, spark plugs, pcv valve, and air filter. After installing a new fuel filter the car now revs excessively high to the point where I no longer feel comfortable driving it (approx. 2000rpm idle).
Any ideas where I should start?

Frustrated Steve

I ended up replacing the ignition control module. Runs like a charm now, especially after replacing all those sensors unnecessarily. Seriously though, the module was in the most awckward spot. Once it was found and replaced, I am mobile again!!

Just when I thought everything was okay! I took my car out on the highway and after about 15 minutes of driving the car now starts to buck like its not betting enough gas. Another weird thing is that the shift light comes on everytime it starts to buck?? very strange indeed!

I have had the same prodlem but I have found the answer. NOTE: Only works for 3 speed tramissions WITHOUT overdrive. What is happening is call transmission lock up. The is a wire towards the front of the car on the transmission with either a blue or black plug on it. If you unplug this plug and leave it unpluged your car should run just fine. NOTE: this must be done when the car is cold and the Lock up sensor has cooled.

Hope this helps ya.

Mark

my car started to have a slight miss once in awhile.after a month it went to running fine for awhile then running very rough and would stall.it was very hard to restart.Ive replaced the fuel and air filter the pvc valve,cleaned the egr valve replaced the plugs,wires and coils.removed the cataltic converter and replaced the muffler.after running and driving the car for about an hour,it was running fine.i stopped at a store a few blocks from my home and shut off the engine.when i came out it took about ten minutes to start it.when it did start it back fired and ran extremly rough all the way home.it also blow out the new muffler at the seems.i installed the muffler flow from a to b.

Do a compression test, timing belt may have slipped a tooth or two.
https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_check_compression.htm

I filled up car drove 54 miles to destination go to leave car starts and start to take off car dies like turn ignition off and repeats couple times.

Car has spark and fuel pump working but now wont start prior to that it would start and idle raise rpm with throttle then let off it would just die. Now wont start but will run with start fluid , acts like no fuel to injectors.

What could be problem i checked fuses and fuel pump, replaced fuel filter, replaced oil sender about 3000 ago same with crankshaft sensor and knock sensor fuel pump replaced about 5000 miles ago. Please help going nuts. Thanks

Whats the actual fuel pressure?Do you have injector pluse?

Have not yet checked for injector pulse will try that today.

Have you checked the actual fuel pressure?Did you just see if the fuel sprays when pushing the schreader valve?

Did injector test have power to both sides of connector full time
When turn key on.

You shouldn't have power to both sides of the injector connector.There should be power to one side and pulsing ground on the other side.

when i start my car up in the morning it starts just fine but then just a few blocks down the road it begins to lose it's idle and stalls and sometimes i can start it again right away but sometimes it takes a few minutes and i get honked at really quickly cause i am usually at a intersection, and my temperature light has started to come on as well. what do you think the problem is?

Check the fuel pressure-if okay inspect/test the idle air control valve, throttle position,mass airflow, manifold absolute pressure sensors-to include the EGR and PCV valves.

Temperature light coming On could mean the engine is overheating-check the coolant level

1990 cavalier starts but dies immediatly checked all fuel sources and it is getting fuel.

Check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter and fuel pump start here

was this problem sudden or gradual? any codes in computer showing?

was this problem sudden or gradual? any codes in computer showing? what happens if you hold/push gas pedal when it starts? you could have a bad IAC.

problem was sudden. ran fine then started choking when tried to give it gas, finelly died and won't run. If I push the gas pedal it hisses thru fuel injectors. fuel pump and filter are fine.

the car runs fine and is very strong when it is cold but after it starts to warm up it shuts off and will not start again till it sits for at least 5 or 6 hours or until it is completely cold i have replaced the following fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator ecm spark plugs wires coils and module they are bolted to tps map sensor crank sensor & wiring harness everything has helped it run a little better but nothing has fixed the problem have also checked for a clog in the exhaust and nothing is fixing it i have run out of ideas on what it could be can someone please help i love this car and hate to get rid of it

that year range of cav's had the ECM mounted behind the glove box.

and over time from having the glove box opened and slammed close would vibrate the ECM and cause cracks in the circuit board.

it sounds like you have replaced everything else.

I have a 1989 Chevrolet cavalier, 2.0liter, automatic tranny. Car starts then dies. I drove the car, shut it of went in to the store came out, it started then died. Came back with trailer it started up and I drove it on to the trailer. Got home and it started and died. I'm losing fuel after start up, coming out of the injector. I have 14psi of fuel pressure while running. Replaced the following, ecm, ignition module, coils, oil pressure sender, plugs, wires, crank sensor, map, iac, fuel filter, and fuel pump relay. I pulled the regulator off and inspected, looks fine. My valve train is moving while the engine is running.

no CEL? maybe it's a wring problem?

I bought a haynes manual. What is a good place to start. I have already checked and cleaned every ground that I can find. There is no CEL on. No codes. What is the possibility of the car being out of time? I also unplugged the TCC, at the transmission, still no change.

so it quits and starts right back up?

Yes it will do it over and over, as if you turned the key off.

does that have single injector TB?

Yes it is a single injector tb.

Fixed my car today.after running down a wiring schematic and some info from a ex-gm technician at work. I found out that the objectors was bad. Apparently the objectors has a voltage source coming off the alternator. He instructed me to unplug the alternator and try to start the car. After i did that the car run. Went and bought a new injector and installed it. Car run s perfect as before. Thanks.

wow that's weird. will have to look that up.

car quit running going down hiway car is getting spark, is getting fuel to injector,getting fire to injector,is getting no fuel thru the injector. can pour gas in throttle bottom will run.

Right now I'm thinking ignition module? Maybe the autostore can test it for you, if you take it off and take it to them.