a pinging sound only under a load

i dnt know wht the specs were but it was tpdc and it started to die when he moved the distubor no i hvnt yet could it be the maf sensor

Ok, so you're not sure about the timing then, do you know what motor is in it by chance? I look up the specs. for it. But the only way to come close with out a timing light is by ear, remember I told you. You have to break torque it a little, put the motor under load and adjust the distributor until the ping goes away, if the motor dies you turned it the wrong way.
RE: MAF or Mas air flow sensor, it's hard to say, but not likey you didn't get any codes did you?

350 we timed it by ear mine doesnt store codes

Ok, got the specs for timing 4 degrees BTDC with an automatic trans. You really need to get the timing light or borrow one from some buddy if you can't time it by ear. you have to start here. then go to the knock sensor because of the fuel.

ok ty how can i tell if the knock sensor is bad

It can be checked with an ohms meter, I believe it's something like 800 to 1200 ohms you can call AP store they'll help you with specs. too, if its close in that range it should be good. most cases they are good, I never seen a bad one unless it's broken. They cost almost $40 not cheap...
I hope you don't have a bad ECM, you said it doesn't store codes...?

yes only 91 and up thts wht i read on it ecm is that in the distubor

No the ECM is inside the truck on the OBD 1 systems, should behind the glove box or some GM's put them on the driver side above the E-brake. The ICM or Ignition Control Module is in the distributor.
The ECM is the main computer Engine Control Module. That is the unit that stores the codes. OBD 1 or On Board Diagnostic.

god i hope tht is not bad is it likely to just go out wht does a broken valve spring sound like just askin

Well if you exhaust all of the possibilities and nothing works then you replace the ECM. But most cases the ECM is good and holds out the life of the car/truck, but they need up graded, what I mean by that is the EPROM needs flashed to compensate for warn in motors for issues where say the CEL's keeps coming on because of issues where the EGR code keeps coming up because the system won't allow for an extra few seconds for the valve to open. "This May Not Be An Issue With Yours" But there is a chance yours may be bad for not storing codes "possible memory issue"

k i hope not

i cant aford a new one what does a bad valve spring sound like

Valve Spring...? I guess you're referring to the head valve spring. I don't thing you have that issue, if the spring were bad/weak then the valve would stick open from time to time and either back fire or pop into the intake.
If that is what is happening you more than likely have the spark plug wires crossed.

k not that just rough idle and a little hestin and pinging only under a load its drvin me nutts

Work with what you have for now, grasping at straws is just a waste of time.
Work with the timing and knock sensor issue at hand and check to make sure the EGR Valve is working. The way to check it is to start the motor let it warn up fully, and rev the motor a little bit and see if the stem moves up and down through the slot on the side of the valve. Don’t put your finger through the slot to see if it moves or you will get burned "Very Hot"...

i replaced the egr and the knock sensor hasnt been hooked up since i hve had it

Come on we have been over this, I know you just replaced the EGR Valve and the Knock Sensor has not been hooked up...
Hook up the Knock Sensor and check the "NEW" EGR Valve to make sure it's working...

k i will check tht 2mrrw the dam thing pisses me off ran fine till i filled up

Just a thought... Maybe just got a bad batch of cheaper gasoline? Since it didn't start until after the last fill up.

thts wht im thinkn

Hey Vette, let me know when you get some of that stuff checked we talked about...
Dave

egr valve is wrkin and the knock sensor is hooked up and still doin it

Ok so even with bad gas it that timing is off it will still ping, so you need to still make sure the timing is checked with a timing light.
You have to make sure the timing is right and if it still does it and the timing doesn't take care of it, the only thing is go with what you think I guess. If you really think bad gas drain the tank. But I don't believe that is the problem.
Now if you have been driving this long time with the ping, there is a chance the motor has damage and no matter what you do if that is the case your motor won't run right.

like i said it didnt do it till i filled up it was running great

Well if you're so sure you have bad gas drain the tank. You keep going back to that so go with it then, I don't know what else to tell you...
Like I said over and over again "It’s a timing issue" you have to rule this out 1st. The Knock Sensor is designed to retard the timing if the sensor detects a ping. The EGR recirculates the exhaust to reburn the excessive hydrocarbons. The ignition timing is needed for proper engine performance and is set by the distributor with a timing light.

i just had the timing done with a light and its fine dnt know wht else it could be unless i have a clogged injecter if i do how do i clean it without takin it off

I hate to send you for another test, because I think it would be a waste of time. The only thing I can thing of is a compression test...
If you have done all three the EGR, Knock Senor, Set Timing, there is nothing else accept a compression test all 8 Cylinders and post your results, don't just say there are fine, I want to see what results you get. This test will determine if the engine has suffered any damage.
If you don't have a compression gage borrow one, but they only cost $30 at harbor freight tools...

the nearest one to me is 150 miles away

i think i found the problem i hve a clogged injecter

Just to give you some incite on that, a clogged injector(s) won't cause a under load ping, you may have more than one problem. If the TBI injector system has a clog somewhere it will cause a misfire condition which will cause a rough idle, one of your systems.
Now before you jump the gun on a clogged fuel injector you should know that if you don't have enough fuel pressure the injectors won't mist right and will drip. If you think your fuel pressure is low then try a little starting fluid while the motor is running if it picks up and starts to smooth out that maybe the trouble with the rough idle. You would need to do a fuel pressure test to make sure.

Here is another pic that may help you find and identify different stuff on your motor including the knock sensor we talked about since you don't have a manual.

i have a mist on the driver side injecter and the pass side is a drip til i open the throttle then it will mist

i have a mist on the driver side injecter and the pass side is a drip til i open the throttle then it will mist ty

Well Like I said you should do a fuel pressure test to make sure, I wouldn't mess with that fuel injector that you say is dripping on idle unless you know you have good fuel pressure. And if you find you have good fuel pressure in specs not just a guess I would try fuel injector cleaner first, something like seaform good stuff from the AP store. If you find after this the injector is bad you would have to replace both of them in a set, they are not cheap, so don't guess here.

yea i know 100.00 piece

you could get em at the bone yard for alot less?

what would be best

Hey Vette,
You got any f the news on your truck? My astro is still down, getting resdy to tear down the front of the motor...

Sounds like you have the timing off, remember you replaced the distributor.
Now alot times even if you set the timing with a timing light to spects the timing will be off, by the way it's 10 degs. before TDC. The harmonic balancer maybe off as well so if that's the case you will have to set the timing by ear and performance.