a pinging sound only under a load

any CEL have codes read maybe knock sensor malfunction?

engine light came on for a couple secs thn went back off

codes are in there even if light is off now.

its new too and still doin it

i was told maybe it jump time

Could be your KS not retarding the ignition timing or A stuck closed EGR valve that causing excessive combustion heat to detonate/ping-like a bunch of marbles being thrown into a tin can when engine is under load-

it only does it under a load and it has a rough idle i was just maybe clogged convertor im open to anything

it takes a litte more time to start in the morning mre than usual

Lets do some troublshooting here instead of describing what's going on with it -do what we have suggested then report back your findings

i was told that a egr valve stuck open is bad and closed is good which is you can call my cell at 307-677-1886

Hello Vette, here is some help for you.
You can check the trouble code(s) your self here is how you do it.
This is the OBD 1 system so you locate the connector plug below the steering wheel at the bottom of the dash and with the key off get a jumper wire or paper clip and jump pin B and A, be careful not to short out any other pins or the ECM will fry. Make sure you have paper and pen so you can write down the codes.
See pics below. After the jumper is in place turn the key to the on position not start and count the check engine flashes on the dash. If this is done right you will see one flash then two flashes. this is normal code 12 You will see this three times then it will start a series of flashes like three flashes then two that is code 32 “EGR” it will do that three times too if the EGR is acting up. After all codes are played it will go back to code 12 and start over. After you are down turn the key off then remove jumper.
Let us know what you find...

k will do it in the mring ty

Stuck open or closed is still no good for me-I've studied the EGR system since it was introduced in 1973

Why are you asking us questions when you're getting advices from others. If you trust them, then stick with them-Do your last suggestion.

i will do what you said in the morning im just tryin to get all the info i can im on a fixed income so i hve to do it myself cant affrd a shop

it has no codes at all what elese could it be

I am no super expert, but I do know my way around most early American cars. Are you getting code 12 which shows OBD is working? If not something is wrong.
The next thing I would check is the timing with a timing light. If that checks out ok; note: “on some older cars and trucks the timing has to be set by hear because of the engine wear they won’t run right if set to specifications, old school stuff” then I'd go to the knock sensor. The knock sensor is designed to stop that ping by retarding the timing enough to stop that. It's rare that they go bad but it happens.
Good luck

the knock sensor hasnt been hooked up since i have had it almost 9yrs now it started after i filled up with gas would the cat have anything to with it im open to anything its driving me nutts tryin to figure this out i cant get a code reader til tomrrw and i will let u know what i find then i have changed the fuel filter,plugs,wires,complete distubor and cap and rotor buttn,o2 sensor i did notice my crank sensor fuse is not gettin power to it its the fuse box i dnt think that has anything to do with it i dnt know im \no mech how can i tell if the egr valve is bad without takin it off

it also is a little harder to start when its cold

Well here is some insight... It doesn't have a crankshaft sensor in this year, that didn't start till 95 or 96.
Now that knock sensor is needed in the system because of low octane fuel, incomplete fuel combustion, which is bad for your motor and emissions. What is happening in your motor is it's getting two firing sequences one too far before tdc "the ping" and another with the spark plug. If this isn’t fixed it could burn a hole in the piston or burn the exhaust valve, go easy on this motor until it’s fixed.
What you can do in the mean time is adjust the timing by ear under load until the ping goes away. You need two people and it’s a little dangerous, the experts here wouldn’t tell you to do this. But one person puts the truck in gear and holds the gas peddle down until you hear the ping and turn the distributor ever so little until the ping goes away and runs strong and idles good. This is called timing by ear….
It would be better and safer to hook up the knock sensor so it works like it should…
RE: catalytic converter I don’t think you have a problem there unless it gets real hot and your exhaust flow is low.
The EGR system is still something to look into if you're still having trouble...
Good luck, and don’t hurt your self…

ok what water in the gas will that do it

Naaa not water, the low octane fuel. If you had water in the fuel your motor would cut out and stall or not run at all and if cold enough it would freeze in the fuel line and maybe other places too...

so would low octane cause a rough idle and pinging like its overheating but nt overheating

Sure it would, you should run atleast min grade fuel in an older car or truck and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the fuel filter if you haven't done so. It could save your fuel pump by replacing it.
Keep in mind about the knock sensor, it compensates for low octane fuel.

i hve replced the fuel filter already and the knock sensor hasnt been hooked up since i hve had it almost 9yrs

is the knock sensor above the starter just want to mke sure

Ok, I thought you did, as for the knock sensor location I'm not sure. They tend to put them in different places. I've seen them on the sides of the motor around the motor mount and they also put them on the heads too. They even use different ones on the same motor and year design. If replacing you may even have to see the shaft on them to know, like some are 5/8 and some are 3/8 shaft where it mounts. I guess it has to do with where they locate it and the available predrilled hole, anything to save money... LOL
If you have the repair manual on this, see if it helps or if you’re still having trouble finding it I’ll do some research and see what I come up with…
Dave

ty i just dnt know what else it could be was running great till i filled up with gas and now this i have a total of bt 500.00 already i dnt have a repair manual on it

Well if you decide to keep it and money is tight you'll need one to work on it. That's one of those must have tools. You think you have troubles, you should see my post here on the 98 astro won't start, no help so far.
You have enough to check on for now, look it over and get back with us out here, everyone that reads these posts needs help...

Verify the sparkplug type and its heat range also if its gapped IAW specs-

the plugs are gapped at 35 whats wrong with the astro whats it doin

Vette, you have even more to check on now sparkplugs, if they are the wrong heat range like rasmataz said it could cause the pre-ignition or ping too just another possibility. Astro link
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1998-chevrolet-astro-won-t-start-good-spark-fuel-pcm
I’ll check back tomorrow and see where you’re at…
Dave

these are new plugs and they are the rght ones for it

Since you refused to open up the EGR valve -go get a 5gas analysis this will tell you something what's going on with oxides of nitrogen readings-My last response-Good Luck

get a what

i just replaced the egr vale and thats not it either now back to square 1 again

Hi Vette, where we at, new egr valve was there alot of carbon build up, same trouble? Did you run any other tests?
The expert wanted you to run exhaust tests but only way you can do that is to take it to a dealer or someone with the right emission tester machine. I think he is upset that I’m out here with my input.
I’ll help you were and when I can, I’m not paid to help but the experts here are with donations and ads.
Dave
I’ll help you were and when I can, I’m not paid to help but the experts here are with donations...
Dave

just a litte bit

the timing is rght it still has a rough idle litte hestition off the throttle and pinging only under a load

thank you for info i wish i could donate but i cant rgt nw sorry

Ok, So the timing is right, I hope you got the right specs. what was it BTW?
While you were checking timing how was the engine idling fast, slow etc. and did you see the timing mark jumping around on the damper pulley? And by chance did you rev the motor while the timing light was on?
I’m asking these questions because base on the answers the timing chain may have play in it…
Re: knock sensor, did you hook that back up?
Did you get any CEL’s today and if so what happen just before it did?