ignition problem, no spark to the distributor cap?

GOT 'IM RAZ!

I STAY ON HERE DAY AND NIGHT WAITING FOR A CJ....RUN AND GRAB A BITE.......BOO-YOW!....ONE POPS UP!

NEVER CAN BE FIRST.

DO YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER? KNOW HOW TO USE IT?

I CAN TELL YOU HOW TO TEST WHAT RAZ IS TALKING ABOUT

BUT FIRST, LET'S SEE WHAT YOUR VOLTAGE IS--"KEY ON" ON POSITIVE SIDE OF COIL.

I HAVE A HOMEMADE PICTURE

PRESENTLY HELPING WITH THE MOST RECENT CJ 7 IN THE CJ 7 FORUM, OUR THREAD WAS 81 ANSWERS STRONG, LAST I REMEMBER!

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU GOT---ANSWER ALL QUESTIONS I ASK, IF YOU WILL TRY NOT TO JUMPY AHEAD!

WANT TO GO IN A SYSTEMATIC ORDER TO GET THIS FIGURED OUT EFFICIENTLY.

HERE'S THE TEST PICK FOR COIL VOLTAGE (I HAVE LOTS OF PICS)---AND PICTURES OF MY PRESENT TWO

ALSO CAREFULLY READ THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THIS POST---STARTING AT "FEB 4". PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO SOLENOID, COIL, FUSIBLE LINKS

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1986-jeep-cj7-help-needed

I WILL HANG WITH YOU FOR THIS AND AND ANY OTHER CJ ISSUE YOU MIGHT HAVE...KEEP THROWING OUT THE QUESTIONS AND INFORMATION.

YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO SOON!

THE MEDIC

Alrighty Medic, lets get started. Just thought you might be humored at the fact that im a youngin (18) and prefer older vehicles. I am actually in a club of IH scouts and am in the process of helping my uncle rebuild his father's 1974 scout II with this same motor. But i personally prefer jeeps to scouts. lol.

Yes i do have a voltmeter and i am pretty familiar with it, at least when it comes to DC and continuity testing. I paid $300 for this jeep, and would surely love to get it running. My yj has a rear main seal leak that i am just guiding along until i can fix it up. but in the meantime, this is for fun. so time is no issue for me. I posted this right before i went to work, but i will get up early tomorrow morning and do the test you suggested. I have also done a little more research and will definitely make use of my voltmeter and ill report back to you as soon as i Am done.

I have read up on something called a "nutter bypass" that was suggested just as a quick diagnosis, it basically bypasses the ECM by running the wires from the ignition control module to the distributor. from my imagination, i cant see how that would solve my current issue. do you have any more knowledge of this modification and whether its application would aid in solving my issue at all?
Thank you!

-Reuben

i was reviewing your link once again and thought of some other things that might help your diagnosis.

the coil that came with it was completely trashed. and i just recently put in a performance coil in my 88 yj, it originally had the type coil that required the ford harness. so i am using the (hopefully) still good coil from that on the cj. now where you mentioned about it saying "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY" it does not say it, but i am not sure if it would have been labeled or if it would even be that type considering it is out of my 88.

i also forgot to mention that the entire battery cables are really, really in terrible condition. I cant express it enough. but apparently they are still working enough to crank the motor. I plan on getting new ones once i see the engine run for the first time. I would go out and buy them right now, but i am on a budget so i want to be convinced it'll be worth it first.

also do you have a picture, or diagram of some sort for where the fusible link that is attached to, but has a second "hot" wire for the positive end of the coil harness, for where that fusible link is supposed to go to? on mine it is disconnected and just hanging (as long as i remember correctly) i will take some pictures also to show you what i mean for all that i have mentioned.

I'LL READ THE BYPASS THING!---LIKE TO LEARN TOO!

SINCE YOU SAY YOU AND MR. VOLTMETER ARE "ONE"---I'LL GIVE YOU ANOTHER TEST TO PERFORM, WHILE YOU'RE AT IT

MY STUFF MAY BE KINDA CRUDE, BUT BEAR WITH ME!

IF WE FIND THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR PICK-UP IS BAD---I'LL TALK YOU THRU THE EZ WAY TO CHANGE IT OUT (WITHOUT HAVING TO FIND "TDC")

THING IS YOU DO NOT WANT TO SNATCH IT OUT OR EVEN LOOSEN AND TURN IT.......UNTIL I TELL YOU HOW (UNLESS YOU ALREADY KNOW ALL OF THIS CRAP!)

1ST THING I WILL EXPLAIN IS THE "FORD TYPE" CONNECTORS TO YOUR MODULE AND DISTRIBUTOR

NO USE-EE SCREWDRIVER ON 'EM---YOU WILL BREAK THE LOCKING TABS OFF!

THIS IS EZ, BUT SOUNDS LIKE IT BREAKS THE LAWS OF LOGIC

GRASP THE WIRES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE BIG CONNECTOR, GRAB 'EM TIGHT, AND JUST PULL HARD (NO JERKING!) THEY WILL COME RIGHT APART.

AS YOU BEGIN CONNECTIONS--YOURS ARE 29 YEARS OLD--AS YOU "DO CONNECTIONS" OF ANY SORT, LET'S BUY A TUBE OF "DIELECTRIC GREASE" AND SMEAR SOME ON ALL OF YOUR CONTACTS, WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE.....THIS WILL SAVE FUTURE HEARTACHE!

WHILE YOU ARE AT IT, AND I DO NOT FORGET---LET'S HIT THE DIMMER SWITCH CONNECTOR WITH THE DIELECTRIC GREASE TOO----YOU WILL THANK ME! IF NOT, ONE NIGHT YOUR LIGHTS WILL FLASH OFF AND ON AT REALLY BAD TIMES, THEN GO OUT COMPLETELY, CONNECTOR WILL MELT, CONTACTS WILL SLIDE REARWARD IN THE HOLDER (SO GREASE IT UP NOW!)

DO YOU HAVE TUNE-UP STUFF-LIKE: A TACH/ DWELL METER--A PLAIN JANE TIMING LIGHT (NOTHING FANCY W/ K.NOBS AND DIALS)

I LIKE PICS--SEND ME A FEW--JEEP--UNDER HOOD--IN FOCUS-3 TO 4 FEET OUT

HOW HAS THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT GOT THRU THE LAST 29 YEARS?

MODIFICATIONS?

STUFF PULLED LOOSE, EXTRA WIRING, DANGLING STUFF?

IS THIS RIG GONNA HAVE TO PASS EMISSIONS TESTING?

WHEN DID IT RUN LAST, WERE YOUR THERE, HOW DID IT RUN?

DID YOU READ ABOUT THE COIL AND RESISTANCE WIRE?---IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU INSTALLED THE COIL THAT SAYS: "FOR USE W/ EXTERNAL RESISTOR"

$300 ??????----LETS SEE A LOT OF PICS!

I HAVE OWNED NOTHING BUT REAL JEEPS SINCE 1981 FOR DAILY DRIVERS---I PICKED UP MOST OF MY KNOWLEDGE FROM MINE, AND HELPING OTHER PEOPLE W/ THEIRS. I PRESENTLY HAVE #6 CJ 5 258 w/ 4BBL HOLLEY 390("MR. JEEP") AND #7 1946 WILLYS L-134 FLATHEAD("WILLY"). BOTH HAVE BEEN REBUILT AND IMPROVED OVER THE LAST 20 YEARS...."WILLY" FROM NOTHINGNESS!

OK HERE'S YOUR NEXT TEST--ACTUALLY 2---TEST GROUND AND TEST P/U WITH CONTINUITY

THE MEDIC

I AM A VERY SLOW HUNT AND PECKER!

I WAS WRITING YOUR LAST NOVEL WHEN YOU POSTED ABOVE ME

THE COIL..........WE WILL KNOW IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT ONE WHEN YOU SEND BACK YOUR VOLTAGE FROM THE 1ST TEST

I HAVE MANY MORE TRICKS, SO KEEP INFO FLOWING SO I KNOW WHICH WAY TO SET MY AZIMUTH, TO KEEP ON NAVIGATING THRU YOUR PROBLEM

I'M NOT "MR. TECHNICAL"---JUST A RURAL ROUTE COUNTRY BOY---WHOSE JEEPS HAVE NOT BEEN TO A "REAL MECHANIC'S SHOP" SINCE 1987

THINGS HAVE STUMPED ME---I HAVE MANY MANUALS---I KNOW SOME REALLY GOOD RESOURCES--TRICKS--WALMART SHARE ALBUMS W/ USER FRIENDLY MODS W/ EXPLANATIONS FOR SOME OF THE STUFF I HAVE DONE.......'87 LAST TIME!!!--1ST WIFE TOOK IT THERE WHEN I WAS DEPLOYED

FROM '79 ON BACK, I HAVE DONE IT ALL---'80 FWD QUITE A BIT FOR OTHERS, USUALLY MODIFYING THEM BACK IN TIME, AND GETTING RID OF THE PESKY STUFF, SO WE CAN MAKE THE BEST OUT OF A SIMPLIFIED ENGINE-NO INSPECTIONS HERE

ON MY '77 IS MANUAL EVERYTHING THERE ARE 3 VACUUM LINES---PCV--VACUUM ADVANCE FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR--LAST ONE IS FOR THE VACUUM GAUGE ON MY DASH----AIN'T NO MORE NEEDED!

I WILL TRY TO KEEP YOUR COSTS LOW--BUT SOMETHINGS REALLY SHOULD BE REPLACED, AS YOU DO NOT KNOW THE HISTORY, IT'S WEAR, AND HOW MUCH MORE EFFICIENT IT MIGHT BE

LIKE THE DIST.--IF IT IS BAD, REPLACING THE P/U IN IT IS TIME CONSUMING, A PAIN, AND YOU STILL HAVE THE SAME THING!----ON THE OTHER HAND A RE-MANUFACTURED FROM A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE IS RIGHT AT $50--NEW GUTS, NEW BEARINGS/ BUSHINGS, AND A LIFETIME WARRANTY (EVERYTHING ON MY '77 IS JUST ABOUT A LIFETIME WARRANTY AND I KEEP A BOOK WITH ALL OF THE ORIGINALS AND OTHER STUFF TOO....IF THIS IS GONNA BE A KEEPER, DO IT RIGHT.

JUST SOME EXAMPLES BELOW

THE MEDIC

Alright i do not have a tachometer meter, or a timing light. But if necessary, i can get one.

there is tons of extra wiring, the previous, and original owner used it for plowing snow so he had all the wiring for that done, in a rather sloppy manner actually. i can get around emissions if i put antique plates on it, but that is further on down the road. owner said it was running eight months ago, he poured gas down the carburetor and it fired up. there is no gas tank, so i went and bought five foot of fuel line and have that attached to the fuel pump and the other end in a gas can just for now to get it running. i was not there when it was running, i have never seen it run...yet.

i did the test like you said for the positive end of the coil, and it read somewhere around 7.3

The continuity test you suggested, im not sure of where that three prong connector is at that you wanted me to test. you mentioned the module, which has two connectors: one withe four wires, and the other with two. i was unable to locate any with three similar to your picture.

Ah. i might have made this easier. i had kind of overlooked this before, but i took off the spark wire from the coil to the distributor, and held the wire over top of the coil while cranking it and there is spark coming from the coil. So the coil i put on there must work?!?! would not that narrow it down to the distributor pickup that raz had mentioned?

original owner must have cracked the connector for the distributor pickup, he has his own wires connecting them, all are the same color so i have no way of knowing which is positive, negative, and ground. is there a way of doing a continuity test to try to label the three wires that lead up to the dist. pickup? off to work i go, gotta be able to fund my hobby. oh and yes there was a perfect connection between the black wire on the pickup side and the body of the distributor for the ground continuity test.

OK CONNECTOR IS THE ONE ON THE DISTRIBUTOR!--WELL ACTUALLY RIGHT THERE AT THE DIST WHERE THE WIRES GO INTO IT

THE TEST IN THE PIC IS FOR THE PICK-UP COIL..... CONTINUITY FOR 3 WIRES GOING INTO IT----ONE IS TO GROUND---OTHER TWO ARE CONTINUITY TO EACH OTHER (LATTER BEING THE PICK-UP ITSELF)

JEEP LOOKS TO BE DECENT--MAY BE YOUR FRIEND FOREVER, AS MINE ARE

FRED FLINTSTONE FLOORBOARDS NEED SOME ATTENTION!!!!



READ THIS ONE---KICKED MY BUTT FOR DAYS!---NEVER "ASSUME"

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1990-ford-ranger-cranks-wont-start

NEXT PICS, REMOVE AIR CLEANER--BOTH SIDES OF ENGINE---MAYBE A FOOT OR SO CLOSER (NOT A CLOSE UP, MOST OF THE ENGINE'S SIDES AND CARB) GET THE SOLENOID TOO!

TIMING LIGHT AND METER---PAWN SHOP MAY BE A GOOD PLACE--CALL AROUND.....FANCY IS UNNECESSARY!

THIS IS MY BUDDY'S SET--LESS THAN $40 AT 'HARBOR FREIGHT'--IT'S GOT 5 ITEMS, NICE "GET BY SET"---ALL IN ONE SMALL CASE (MY STUFF IS ANCIENT, BIG AND BULKY, BUT I HAVE TE SAME ITEMS!)


JUST FOR GIGGLES---POUR 2-3 EATIN' SPOON-FULS OF FUEL DOWN THE CARB------TRY IT (MAYBE CHOKE IT)-----WHAT'S IT'S REACTION? DIFFERENT? ALMOST? FOR A SECOND? ABSOLUTELY NOTHING?

'NOTHER GOOD QUESTION---STILL GOT ORIGINAL CHOKE SET-UP? OR IS IT MANUAL?

SEE DIS?--I HAVE 2 (ONE TO INSURE THE OTHER IS NOT BURNED OUT!)---NO YOU CAN'T HAVE MY SPARE! LOL!

VERY GOOD THING TO KEEP WITH YOU---QUICK AND EZ----SOON I WILL CLUE YOU IN ON THE SECRETS OF HAVING IT ALL--WHEN YOU AIN'T AT HOME!

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-In-line-ignition-spark-tester/_/N-268s?counter=1&filterByKeyWord=SPARK+TESTER&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=900800_0_0_

SENDING YOU A MESSAGE--- HOME--CLICK YOUR NAME--LOOK LEFT FOR MESSAGE CENTER

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

ALL OF THIS IGN CONNECTOR STUFF CAN BE FOUND IN 70s-80s FORD VEHICLES AT SALVAGE YARD---CAN BE BUTT-SPLICED IN

MY BIG!---COLORED DIAGRAM I MADE SPECIAL FOR ME? SEE PICTURE

THE MEDIC

IN THE "3 WIRE CONNECTOR TEST"----WIRE COLORS ARE LABELED WHERE I POINTED TO PRONGS IN PICS

YOU CAN TEST JUST BY USING THEM (WIRE COLOR)---THIS SHOULD LET US KNOW IF ITS THE DISTRIBUTOR OR NOT

THE MEDIC

HERE'S A MODIFIED PIECE OF A DIAGRAM

THE MEDIC

CAN YOU UNDERSTAND ALL I HAVE GIVEN YOU?

SOMETIMES I GET CARRIED AWAY!

SLOW ME DOWN OR STOP ME IF YOU GET LOST, DON'T WANT YOU MESSIN' YOUR JEEP UP!

I TRY TO DO ALL I CAN ON 2CAR SO THAT OTHERS WHO MIGHT READ THIS MAY BENEFIT ALSO, AS YOU SEE, I GO BACK AND STEAL FROM OTHER POSTS, TO KEEP THE HUNTING AND PECKING TO A MINIMUM.

THE MEDIC

Alright I got it running...somewhat. The carb needs work it's not letting fuel
Into it. The jeep would run as long as I kept spraying ether into it. It fires right up when
I bypass the starter solenoid which is easiest when I'm already under the hood. But I don't get anything when I turn the key. So that's the next issue to resolve along with the carb. I just so happen to have 2 more of those same carburetors so I'll mess around with that. Maybe give the one on it a few smacks with a hammer in case the floats are stuck.

HERE'S THE BEST THING I COULD FIND SO FAR

I RECOMMEND A 1979 CARB---KINDA ONE OF THE LAST "SIMPLE" BBDs...IT HAS NO STEPPER MOTOR....I KEPT 2, EVEN THOUGH I HAVE A 4 BARREL ON MINE

I REALLY DO NOT THINK YOU CAN GO WRONG WITH THIS

I'VE DONE YOUR HOMEWORK--IF YOU REBUILD AND SOMETHING IS WRONG---AIN'T NO WARRANTY!!!!...AND THE HASSLE...CLEANER...KIT.....MAYBE NO EXPERIENCE

MOST LIKELY HAS A WARRANTY

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_5121140-P_x_x?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Shopzilla-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&srccode=cii_10043468&cpncode=22-187227193-2#utm_source=cse&utm_medium=shopzilla&utm_campaign=value3&utm_content=value4

I LOOKED AROUND A LOT---THEY GET EXPENSIVE


WHEN YOU GET THE FIRST ONE---KEEP YOUR OLD CARB---YOU MAY NEED PARTS/ BRACKETS ETC

LATER YOU CAN USE IT FOR A CORE IF YOU HAVE TO GO W/ A MORE EXPENSVE ONE W/ A BIGGER CHARGE.......NEVER GIVE UP ANY KIND OF CORE, UNTIL YOU ARE GOOD TO GO W/ YOUR NEW PART!

WHATCHU THINK?

JUST 'MEMBER, THIS IS BEST VEHICLE YOU EVER OWNED...GOTTA TAKE CARE OF HIM!

THE MEDIC

alright thanks, and do you have any ideas for the key issue? Again, the jeep will crank and start(with starting fluid) when i jump the starter solenoid, but it doesnt do anything when i turn the key.

LOOK AT JULY 1, "MY" 4TH ANSWER----ON THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-ford-bronco-ignition-issues

YOU WILL NOT BE HAPPY--THIS IS A JOB FOR A CHINESE MIDGET--A MIRROR AND STRONG LIGHT MAY SHOW YOU WHAT YOU NEED TO DO---BUT IT'S GONNA ALL BE BY "FEEL" WHEN YOU START MESSING WITH IT

DID YOU RECEIVE THE 1979 WIRE DIAGRAM?

THE COLORS AND POSITIONS OF THE WIRES AT THE IGNITION SWITCH SHOULD BE THE SAME---IF YOU WANT ME TO---I CAN MAYBE SEGREGATE OUT THAT PORTION AND LABEL WHAT VALUES YOU SHOULD BE GETTIN' WITH YOUR KEY IN DIFFERENT POSITIONS-----THIS CAN BE DONE BY USING A TEST LIGHT OR VOLTMETER----AND STABBING STRAIGHT PINS INTO THE WIRES TO DO THE TESTING------LET ME KNOW

IF YOU WANNA JUST GIVE HIM A QUICK TEST---AND BUYING ANOTHER IGN SWITCH AIN'T AN ISSUE (OR YOU THINK IT COULD BE RETURNED)

UNSNAP THE WIRES OFF OF THE OLD SWITCH (LEAVE IN PLACE) SNAP THEM ONTO THE NEW SWITCH (DANGLING FREE, AROUND YOUR PEDALS)

INSURE YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL, AND MOVE SWITCH POSITIONS USING A SMALL SCREWDRIVER OR OTHER ---INSERTED INTO THE SWITCH'S "ROD" HOLE

........REMEMBER "START" IS SPRING LOADED AND WILL BE SORTA HARD TO ACTUATE INTO THAT POSITION......YOU'LL GET THE HANG OF IT!

ARE MY ANSWERS.......UNDERSTANDABLE?.......ARE THEY AIDING YOU?

YOU DO REALIZE....YOU ARE MOST LIKELY GONNA HAVE TO TAKE ME TO "KRYSTAL'S" AT LEAST TWO TIMES????........EACH TRIP 12 CHEESE KRYSTALS, MAYO, ONION, (AND OF COURSE...CHEESE!)JUST NO MUSTURD!!!!

I'M DEFINITELY HAVING A HANKERING FOR SOME!

THE PICS ARE SO NICE TO SEE---I SELDOM GET TO SEE WHAT I AM WORKING ON----KEEP 'EM COMING!

DID YOU RECEIVE THE WALMART ALBUMS?......I WILL SEND OTHERS

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC


PIC OF MY 1ST 1977 CJ 5 W/ 304 TAKEN IN '83, I SORTA MIMICKED THE PAINT SCHEME ONTO MY PRESENT 6TH CJ 5 (IT TOO IS A 1977, BUT W/ 258)

yes i got the wiring diagram and the albums. very nice lookin. as for the ignition, im not too concerned with it being perfect, i might just wire a push button to the solenoid and mount it somewhere inside.

do you know what that module looking piece is thats next to the starter solenoid? at first glance i thought it was the ICM, but thats over on the other side.

WHAT'S THE "BLACK WAD" TO THE RIGHT OF IT?

HOW MANY WIRE GO IN/ OUT?

CAN YOU MAYBE TRACK A FEW OF IT'S WIRES TO THEIR DESTINATION----REPORT BACK W/ COLOR AND COLOR OF "TRACER STRIPE" ON IT WHERE THE WIRES GO

I HAVE MANY MANUALS NEED NUMBERS AND COLORS TO "BACKTRACK"

THE MEDIC

WILL IT RUN IF YOU UNPLUG IT?

STILL LOOKING FOR WHAT IT IS--IS THIS A CALIFORNIA JEEP?

I FEEL THAT IT IS SOMETHING TO DO W/ THE COMPUTER---COMPUTERS JUST HAD BEEN PUT IN THOSE YEARS---THE CARB W/ THE STEPPER MOTOR ON THE REAR IS ABOUT ALL THAT GOT CONTROLLED BY THE COMPUTER----ABANDONING AND CAPPING OFF STUFF, AND CHANGING TO A '79 CARTER BBD CARB (NO STEPPER) WILL HAVE YOU RUNNING GREAT!

THE MEDIC

I THOUGHT I THREW THE FUSIBLE LINK THING AT YOU BEFORE

I WAS READING YOUR POST AGAIN--SAW YOU MENTIONED IT AGAIN

READ THE NUMBERED PORTION TOWARDS THE BOTTOM OF "FEB 13" ANSWER AND SEE ITS PICS

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1984-jeep-cherokee-cj7

LOOK AROUND ON YOUR FIREWALL/ FENDERS, SEE IF YOU HAVE ONE OF THESE (ON AN '83 IT'S SORTA UNDER AND LEFT OF THE MASTER CYLINDER)--TAKE PICS

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Control-Module/1982-Jeep-CJ7/_/N-ikzsqZ9n80t?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=ignition+module&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=118422_300759_0_2425

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Haven't been able to mess with it the past few day, its been raining here. By the way it looks, I also had thought something with the computer. It is not the ignition control module, I had already replaced that. That's what one of those pictures was of that I posted on here. When you mention about the 79 carter w/o the stepper motor and eliminating the computer, that's what that "nutter bypass" is supposed to do. I had mentioned that close to the beginning. Hopefully weather will clear up for the weekend and ill be able to do a little work on it than. Will keep you posted as time will allow me to work on it.

The first picture is what had been ghetto rigged by the previous owner for the distributor pickup. Tough to tell by the picture, but all 3 of the wires that plug into the pickup had been rewired and were all done in the same color(gray) so I had to trace it back to where I could fine the original colors and plug them into the pickup side plug individually

A 70s OR 80s FORD VEHICLE IN A AUTO SALVAGE YARD WILL YIELD YOU THE CORRECT HARNESS TO CONNECT THEM TOGETHER

YOU NEED TO INSURE YOU TIE IT WELL IF YOU LEAVE IT THAT WAY

OPT FOR "BETTERMENT", FROM A YARD!

THE MEDIC

AND YOU ARE WAITING FOR WHAT?

SITTIN' HERE WITH NO ONE TO TALK CJ TO

THE MEDIC

okay so i got it running, i had smacked the carburetor with a hammer a few times hoping to set the floats loose, than ran the fuel lines to a gas jug, cranked it, pumped the gas a few times and VOILA! she fired up, was running on its own. the carburetor isnt perfect, but good enough for now just so i know it runs. i was able to semi-test the transmission, i know 1st and reverse works from up and down the driveway. the second picture will show you why i didnt feel comfortable going around the block. thats my current "gas tank"

i made a trip to a junkyard which is known for having a jeep inventory but they didnt have a single one. they told me theyve been crushing anything older than 1990 lately. so i got screwed for that. i have to order the gas tank and all relating components and still try to find a junkyard where i can find that harness connector.

The third picture, is something ive been trying to figure out since i got it. i originally thought that was the ignition control module, but thats on the other side. this picture is passenger side, directly next to the starter solenoid.

OK

I SORTA ALREADY HAVE HALF-HEARTEDLY BEEN LOOKING FOR THAT TOO--NEVER SEEN IT BEFORE---YOU DID SAY THAT THERE IS A SEPARATE IGNITION MODULE FROM THIS THING---IT IS WIRED LIKE MY PIC FROM DECEMBER 8 ???

JUST TO SEE IF YOU ARE ON YOUR TOES---DID I GIVE YOU A LINK TO A THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL?

DO YOU WANT IT?

I HAVE THE 1979 AMC JEEP PAPER MANUAL---IT IS THE MOST INFORMATIVE BOOK I HAVE-----IT IS IDENTICAL TO THE '79 AT THE SITE-----THEY HAVE SEVERAL OTHER SURROUNDING YEARS AT THE SITE

I WISH THIS HAD BEEN OBTAINABLE TO ME YEARS AGO!

LET ME KNOW

THE MEDIC

AFTER PULLING MY HAIR OUT, LOOKING MANY PLACES FOR THE MYSTERY BOX------ SINCE THE WIRING LOOKS TO BE FACTORY GOING INTO THE WIRE LOOMS---YA RECKON THAT'S A EARLY "ECM" OR CALIFORNIA STANDARDS???

TO MAYBE RULE IT OUT---NORMALLY ON A LATER CJ, THE ECM IS UP UNDER THE PASSENGER SIDE DASH UP IN AROUND THE HEATER BOX---DO YOU SEE A MASS OF WIRES AND AN ALUMINUM BOX UP UNDER THERE?

IF YOU ARE EMISSIONS TESTED IN YOUR AREA--I CANNOT SEE THIS PASSING W/ ALL OF THE OVER THE YEARS MODIFYING AND ELIMINATIONS THAT IT COULD PASS.

IF YOU ARE NOT TESTED, MY BELIEF IS IF YOU CAN MAKE IT RUN AS EFFICIENTLY AS POSSIBLE, YOU ARE AT LEAST TRYING TO BE "GREEN"

YOU ONLY NEED 2 VACUUM LINES TO MAKE IT RUN WELL--3 IF YOU KEEP THE EGR HOOKED (IT IS NOT NECESSARY, AS HEADERS WOULD COMPLETELY ELIMINATE IT) ---EVERYTHING ELSE CAN BE CAPPED OR PLUGGED

THAT LITTLE FOREST OF VACUUM LINES YOU GOT PLUGGED W/ SCREWS COULD BE COMPLETELY SCREWED OUT OF THE INTAKE AND A BRASS OR STEEL PLUG INSTALLED IN THE HOLE...WITHOUT A FURTHER BACK PIC, LOOKS LIKE THE REMAINING LINE IS TO THE EGR

THE '79 CARB I MENTIONED ON DECEMBER 6 WOULD ELIMINATE THE (PROBABLY INOPERABLE STEPPER) COMPUTER CARB YOU MAY HAVE NOW---WITH SO MUCH OF THE STUFF DISABLED

THAT CARB IS MOST LIKELY NOT DOING WHAT IS WAS INTENDED TO DO, AND THE ADDITIONAL STUFF THAT WAS INCORPORATED IN (FROM A '79) USUALLY DON'T MOVE AFTER THIS MANY YEARS.......THE '79 IS SO MUCH SIMPLER TO ADJUST/ REBUILD/ AND YOU WON'T HAVE TO REDO THE WHOLE JEEP TO MAKE IT WORK, THE BBD WORKED FINE ON THE JEEP YEARS BEFORE THEY TRIED TO MAKE IT GREENER

STILL AIN'T GOT THE GAS LINES FIGURED OUT?

IN YOUR PRESENT CONDITION, I'D SAY YOU MIGHT GET 10 MPG WITH YOUR PASSENGER DOOR TANK!

THE MEDIC

phew. long update. been workin on it as fast as the money comes in. gas tank is all figured out and installed, all new fuel lines also. ran nylon fuel lines through the frame, supply and return. replaced all rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and carb. added an inline fuel filter between the new fuel line and the pump to catch and junk that might have been in the replacement tank since it was a used one. thres some gas in it, hooked up the jumper cables and it fired up. the carb was really rough, so i ordered a rebuild kit and went to town with it. The alternator was bad so i replaced that also.

the "rebuilt" carb was placed on there last night, but i didnt mess with it past that. went to replace the valve cover gasket this morning because it was leaking oil and it turns out the valve cover was actually cracked. explained all the RTV that the previous owner had put over an area of the valve cover. Have to find another one before i can get it running again.

Last time i had it running(rough) i had to drive it around the block to help motivate me to finish it. lol. it got all the way around a time or two before i called it quits since its not registered or insured.

the front end wiring is completely chopped to pieces because the P.O. had rigged it up for a plow and that was his primary use of the jeep, so tracing and replacing to get it straight should be fun.

First pic shows the fuel filter. also you can see what i meant awhile back by the P.O. had rigged his own wires to the distributor pickup. they're the grey wires directly above the oil filter. and my homemade green/yellow battery cables.

2nd pic is the fuel lines fished through a crossmember into the frame than ran up to the front of the jeep. and the fresh new alternator.

4th is the complete teardown of the old carb. the thing was reallllly nasty inside.

and the last one is the cracked valve cover.

KEEP THE UPDATES COMING

I HAVE TALKED TO 3 OTHER JEEP PEOPLE, YOUR "MODULE" IS SOMETHING NONE OF US HAS SEEN BEFORE....BY CHANCE, IS THIS ORIGINALLY A CALIFORNIA JEEP?

WHY SO MUCH HOSE AT THE FUEL PUMP?

JUST SO YOU HAVE SOME GOOD SOURCES FOR PARTS---MAYBE GET YOU AN ALUMINUM VALVE COVER FROM ONE. GIVING YOU SEVERAL LINKS.

KEEP IT UP--STAY MOTIVATED!

THE MEDIC

i know somebody who has a IH scout with the same motor that he converted to fuel injection by putting in the intake manifold up from a 4.0 jeep engine. and he also put on a different valve cover so he has his old one for sale for dirt cheap. any idea if the bolt pattern on the valve cover would be different from a scout to a jeep even though it is the same motor?

No way this is a california jeep. it still has the dealer emblem on it and it was orignally purchased in PA. im only the 2nd owner.

ill try to further trace the wires from that module to see where they go to. maybe that would help identify what it is.

Gonna check the one that the guy I know is selling first. If its identical I'll scoop that one up and slap it on there. If not I'll do some late night bidding on eBay. Thanks for the links. Will probably get to work on it this weekend as long as the weather holds out. Will keep you posted! Thanks for the links.

-Jr. Jeeper
Figured the name should fit well

Alright medic! slight update. got the valve cover and did a little slioght prep work to it. had to change the studs for the valve cover. its slightly different but fits and works nonetheless.(with the aid of some RTV) the valve cover kept hitting the upper radiator hose and started tearing through it and it was leaking to avoid it going into the engine i had to do a little workout to run and grab a drain pan and empty my radiator and remove both upper and lower rad. hoses to get the valve cover to snug in place. planned on replacing them either way, this just helped me get to that point faster.

after the valve cover was all said and done i was finally able to test the effectiveness of my self taught carb rebuild, which worked magnificently! it high idled normally and kept going when i kicked it down to low idle. made that $13 rebuild kit worth the time. now its time to do an entire fluid change. engine oil/ diff's/ t-case/ tranny/ etc. i discovered something else though. the place where the vent connects to the front diff is actually broken off. any idea on how easy, or not so easy of a fix that'll be? havent snapped any pics of that yet but can tomorrow if you need to see it.? let me know so i can ge them for you! thankyou!

LOOKING LIKE YOU'RE DOING SOMETHING NOW!

GLAD CARB IS COOPERATING

THE DIFF VENT IS JUST SORTA PRESSED IN, GET YOU A HEAVY, FINE THREADED HEX-HEADED SCREW THAT IS TAPERED (AN AUTOMOTIVE HARDENED TYPE) NOT LIKE A LAG BOLT) SCREW IT IN GOOD AND TIGHT, JUST INTO THE INNER HOLE...NO NEED IN FORCING IT WAY IN. THEN USE A SMALL CROW OR FLAT BAR TO PRY ON THE SCREW HEAD UNTIL YOU REMOVE WHATS LEFT OF THE BROKEN PIECE.

AS FAR AS REPLACEMENT, YOU CAN SURELY ORDER A NEW ONE, OR FIND A THREADED BARBED MALE HOSE ADAPTER THAT MAY BE CLOSE

I HAVE MADE THEM (AND OTHER STUFF) WITH BRASS FITTINGS---MALE PIPE THREADS ON ONE END, BARBED HOSE FITTING ON THE OTHER. I CHUCKED UP THE BARBED END IN MY DRILL--ANCHORED IT IN A VISE, LOCKED THE DRILL "ON". THEN WITH A GRINDER/ DREMEL TOOL, I GROUND THE PIPE THREADS OFF AND SLIGHTLY TAPERED IT, UNTIL IT WAS THE RIGHT SIZE AS THE PART SPUN IN THE DRILL.

JUST TO BE DEAD ON RIGHT, THE LITTLE OUTLET ON THE FUEL FILTER SHOULD BE TURNED STRAIGHT UP, SO IT IS THE HIGHEST POINT (THE ONE FOR THE RETURN)

THIS IS YOUR PCV--PLUG THE LITTLE END WITH THE INSIDE PLUG THAT SHOULD COME WITH IT

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_PCV-Valve-Purolator_5851556-P_5_R%7CGRPFILTAMS_____

AS FAR AS THE GROMMETS--I USUALLY TRY TO USE THE TALLER TIGHT FITTING ONES--SOMETIMES I CAN'T FIND THEM AND "SETTLE" FOR LESS---I'LL SEND YOU SOME PICS OF WHAT I HAVE AND USED IN THE PAST, TILL I GOT THE TALLER ONES.

IMMA PLUMBER, ON THE FRESH AIR END, I'VE USED "PEX" COPPER WATER ELBOWS (3/4") TO MAKE NICE TURNS (THERE'S ONE IN MY PICS)

LET ME KNOW MORE OF YOUR PROGRESS---I STILL HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THAT BOX IS---COULD IT BE AN EARLY VERSION OF THE COMPUTER (LATER UNDER THE PASSENGER DASH?)

THE MEDIC

alright, update time! been working all day today.

started off with removing the plow frame on the front, grinded off the small weld line, than smacked it a few times and lifted it off. that thing was heavy...especially when i threw it down and the bar landed on my foot. probably about 200 lbs landing on my foot. i turned into a sailor and said some really disturbing things. Haha. but that got done.

than i had to change the valve cover gasket to fit the valve cover. and there was a slight problem last time i worked with the valve cover. one of the studs had popped out while tightening it, ended up stripping the threads in the head. so i went out and bought a heli-coil and did that while the valve cover was off. worked like a charm.

than my parts came for the front turn signals, the entire assembly which i discovered was rotted through the other day. so i swapped them in, and put in the new radiator and hoses. some fresh coolant, a few pumps of the gas and a turn of the key and it fired right back up again!

also got started on ripping everything out of the inside, seats and all. floor is lookin pretty good. the driver side floorpan to replace, and plan on doing herculiner on the entire floor.

BUT, like always, i discovered another problem. there seems to be some kind of wiring issue with the turn signal/running lights. when the headlight switch is pulled out, so that the headlights are on, none of the running lights come on: front or rear. with headlights on, and i switch the turn signal, whichever way its turned the front and rear lights turn on solid. same for right/left turn signal. BUT when i hit the hazard lights, both front and rear will blink. ?????? i havent got a clue. Medic, i need your expertise on this one! any ideas on what it could be?

GET MY EMAIL?

THE MEDIC

Yes i did. I ran some tests like you mentioned. I cleaned up the connections on the flasher and now the turn signals work, hazards work, and headlights. I do not have running lights with the headlights on. I figured it was a bad terminal on the headlight switch so
I ordered a new one. Gonna try it out tonight when i get off of work. My list is getting shorter. The 3 primary things left are to fix the floor, fix the brakes, i think they might need new wheel cylinders cuz the back one are leaking, and to be bled. Also i want to do an entire fluid change; diffs, tranny, t-case etc. already did the engine oil, power steering pump, and radiator. Carb is still working nice as of now. Just want to adjust the idle screws. Seems to idle really high.

USE A TACH DWELL TO ADJUST CARB, BASICALLY PEAK THE RPMS (TO ME, THIS IS EZer TO DO THAN USING A VACUUM GAUGE TO ADJUST THEM. SEE "OCTOBER 25" ON THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1978-jeep-cj7-need-help-getting-started-start-on-troubleshooting

AS FAR AS THE DIFFS, S.UCKING THEM OUT...JUST DON'T GET THE CRAP AND WATER OUT OF THE BOTTOM, I DON'T CARE WHO YOU ARE! THAT'S WHAT NEEDS TO BE GONE....REMOVE THE COVERS AND DRAIN IT COMPLETELY, AS THE AMC JEEP FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL DESCRIBES

ONE OF THEM "INFANT SNOT SUCKER DEALEES" OR A "TURKEY BASTER" WILL EMPTY YOUR MASTER CYLINDER, AND WITH A SHORT PIECE OF FUEL LINE SHOVED ON TO IT, YOU CAN EMPTY POWER STEERING, ETC

REMEMBER EVERYTHING USING 90 WEIGHT (80W-90), DRIVETRAIN, FILL EACH ITEM UNTIL IT RUNS BACK OUT THE HOLE...I USE A PUMP ON A GALLON JUG, WHEN IT STARTS RUNNING OUT, I GIVE IT A FAST 3 EXTRA PUMPS, THEN INSTALL THE FILL PLUG! THE TRANNY IS THE HARDEST ITEM TO FINAGLE THE DARN PLUG BACK INTO!

THIS IS THE PROCEDURE I USE WHEN DOING THE BRAKES...SEE MY ANSWER ON "SEPTEMBER 28" AT THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2002-ford-f-250-changed-master-cylinder-pedal-still-floor



KEEP ME POSTED, LET ME KNOW HOW THE HEADLIGHTS ARE COMING ALONG

THE MEDIC

Plan on removing both diff covers and giving them a fresh coat of paint, so they will be drained completely. Already got that pump you showed. Needed one trying to fill my uncles IH t-case when i flushed it for him, so thats already covered.

as far as the headlights go. i got the new headlight switch, and still the same result. turn signals, hazard lights, and headlights work. BUT no running lights/marker lights when the headlights are on. must be a break in the wire somewhere, but plan on doing a few tests to be positive on that before i throw any more money at it when it doesnt actually need it. tuneup parts will be on the list soon. spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor, etc.

Brake bleeding will be soon also. Need to take a drive back over to the P.O. to see if he has the key to the lock lug nuts. if not, well than it should be interesting cutting them off. Guess new studs will be a necessity.

New floor is in the works, just waiting on the weather to cooperate so i can do a little rust preventative prior to putting in the new "floor"

Hopefully today will be nice enough to do some more work on it, would be nice since its my day off. will keep you posted!

I JUST STARTED WORKING PART TIME AT ADVANCE AUTO, LEARNING THE REGISTER PROCEDURES IS KILLING ME! I CAN "CHECK OUT" FINE (BUT SLOW AS CRAP) IT'S CLOCKING IN AND OUT, CHECKING WARRANTY'S, GIVING WARRANTY'S, RETURNS, ADDING IN ANOTHER VEHICLE, OVERRIDES ETC. ETC. AND "COMBINATIONS" OF ALL OF THE ABOVE....THAT'S MAKING ME PULL MY HAIR OUT AND BEGGING FOR HELP!

THE KICKER IS, I'M SHOWN ONCE OR TWICE AT THE SPEED OF LIGHT, THEN LEFT ON MY OWN!

I'M A PLUMBER BY TRADE, WITH MEGA CJ EXPERIENCE, WITH THE 7 I HAVE OWNED AND AIDING OTHER JEEP GUYS (AND OLDER NON-COMPUTERIZED VEHICLES)

I DID FIND OUT TODAY, MY STORE HAS A TOOL, SORTA A "OUTSIDE EZ OUT THINGAMAJIGGER" IT'S DIRECTIONAL AND "BITES" AS IT IS ROTATED CCW......IT'S USED TO REMOVE ANTI-THEFT LUG NUTS.....IT SORTA CHEWS 'EM UP, 'CAUSE IT BITES ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE NUT. SEE IF A LOCAL PARTS STORE NEAR YOU HAS ONE. THEN YOU WON'T CHEW UP YOUR STUDS.

IS THE 1979 WIRING DIAGRAM I SENT VIA EMAIL, AIDING WITH THE RUNNING LIGHTS???

KEEP ME POSTED

HAVE FUN!

THE MEDIC

Awesome. Ill have to try to find it in the local store. Although i am highly upset with advance auto. I had a gift card from there so i hopped online, put all the tuneup parts in the cart, set it for store pickup and than found out they dont accept gift cards online. Bullshit if you ask me. Lol. But its alright, the point is that i got them and put em on, and boy does that jeep fire right up even faster than it had before.

Now the wiring has got me all kinda of confused. I havent done much with the diagram you sent me, ive been following the one in my haynes manual. According to haynes the wiring is different for 80-83 than 79. So to avoid confusion, ive just been following the book. Plus the book is easier to have in front of me when im laying in perhaps the most uncomfortable position trying to get up under the dash. But i gave a second look over the fuse panel because the turn signal wasnt working today. Found the turn signal fuse had blown so i changed it and now its all screwey again. The running lights come on the bright filament in the front when the headlights are turned on. BUT no turn signal in the front when the headlights are on (rear turn signals work). The front turn signals work when the headlights are off but they are on the dimmer filament on the 1157 bulb. Any ideas as to what it could be now? Its slightly different from how it was yesterday.

Covered the fresh cut regions of the floorboard with rustoleum today, and started cutting to shape my new floorboard AKA old detour sign my uncle had. He works for the township so no illegal activites were done in obtaining this piece of aluminum. Haha.

Will hop on the cpu shortly to upload a few more pics of my progress from today. Currently on my "smart phone."

Any chance the next day you work you could pull the part number? Or the name and brand of that tool you were describing? Would be greatly appreciated!