1981 Jeep CJ7 medic can you help me?

I wonder what thumb means?then its got a little x inside a square. I wonder if I have to press in a picture and then press reply to question?

I'm probably screwing this up really bad but here goes another one

wish I was smarter about this digital picture business,
so the engine runs and it idles at around 700 maybe 650 and if I idle it down any more and the idle screw falls off the little cam the engine dies. so I screw it back in to where the idle screw just hangs on the end of the cam and it runs ok. then I backed off the curb idle screw to get the rpms as low as possible. I just duct taped the vacuum pipes coming out of the carburetor. have the pcv valve going to the brass fitting coming out of the intake manifold on its way to the egr valve. put the little hose on the egr valve to the little thing on the intake manifold with the 2 plastic pipes sticking straight up. then I put one of the front vacuum pipes on the carburetor on the same little valve with the 2 plastic pipes. the other vent from the rear of the valve cover just hangs out on the passenger side of the engine venting into the air. the 2 pipes on the front of the carburetor where the air horn is just don't have any hoses going to anything.

DOIN' FINE

ONE PIC AT A TIME PER REPLY IS OK

YOU'LL LEARN HOW TO "RESIZE" LATER ON

SEND ME THREE MORE PICS

FROM THE DRIVER'S MIRROR (OR CLOSER) TO THE REAR AREA AROUND THE CARB

TWO SHOTS OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE ENGINE FROM OBLIQUE FRONT AND OBLIQUE REAR

I'M GONNA CRITIQUE THE OTHER TWO PICS I HAVE

BELOW IS THE 1ST CRITIQUE

YOUR PIC/ MY AFTERMARKET BREATHER/ ORIGINAL BREATHER

I RECKON YOU KNOW TO CLICK ON MY PICS TO ENLARGE THEM

DID YOU SEE THE PICS WHERE I "RE-ROUTE" THE HEATER HOSES WITH TEEs TO GAIN MORE HEAT IN THE COCKPIT?

MORE CRITIQUES COMING - GO AHEAD AND SEND THE OTHER PICS, 1 PER REPLY

THE MEDIC

THE "BAD" AIR FROM THE PCV IS SUCKED INTO THE CARB

THIS AIR IS "PART OF" THE 14.1/ 1 (CLOSE TO A PERFECT BURN) AIR/ FUEL RATIO

IF YOU "BLOCK" THE PCV SYSTEM'S AIRFLOW (FINGER OVER THE PCV), IDLE WILL SUFFER THE MOST.

INSTALLING A SECOND PCV VALVE IN FIREWALL END OF THE VALVE COVER WILL "CHECK" (IT'S SUCKING THE WRONG WAY THRU IT) THIS WOULD BE THE SAME AS CAPPING IT OFF

I HAVE TAKEN A PCV VALVE TO THE GRINDER AND GROUND THE LIP OFF, DROPPED ALL OF THE GOODIES OUT. DOING THAT, LEFT ME NOTHING BUT A HOLLOWED OUT ELBOW (WHICH CAN BE USED FOR THE FRESH AIR END, IF YOU CANNOT FIND AN ELBOW)

THE MAIN CONCERN WITH YOURS IS, IT'S SUCKING UNFILTERED AIR

A DIRT DAUBER CAN/ MAY HAVE ALREADY BUILT A MUD NEST IN THE OPEN END OF THE HOSE. (CHECK FOR THAT), AS IT IS BLOCKING AIR FROM EVENTUALLY GETTING TO THE CARB. THEN LET'S ATTACH THE HOSE THRU THE AIR CLEANER FOR FILTERED FRESH AIR.

ABOUT TO WORK ON PIC #2

THE MEDIC

OK PIC 2

NEED THE OTHERS I REQUESTED!

WORKING ON PIC 3

I HAVE FOUND THAT THE "NYLON RUBBERY VACUUM CAPS" (COLORED ONES) WORK THE BEST FOR CAPPING OFF STUFF. THE "REAL RUBBER CAPS" TEND TO ROT/ SPLIT/ FALL OF IN A FEW YEARS, THIS MAKES FOR A FUN "WHY AM I IDLING SO HIGH" OR "WHY AM I BOGGING DOWN", WHEN YOU ASSUME THE CAPS ARE STILL CAPPED!

SEE THE CAPS ON MY CARB, NOTE: THE BOTTOM LEFT BLACK ONE IS THAT OLE EVIL RUBBER KIND!

2ND BEST TO NYLON IS A SHORT PIECE OF FUEL LINE WITH A SMALL BOLT SHOVED TIGHT INTO IT (FUEL LINE IS BETTER THAN VACUUM LINE, AS FAR AS "HOLDING UP" OVER TIME

THE MEDIC

ok medic,
so I need a new air filter housing with a hose connection from the rear valve cover opening to the air cleaner through another filter inside the housing. that hose on the rear of the valve cover smokes a lot so I thought that was venting. so ill find another housing to get that hose connected. maybe the guys at the corner parts house can help me find one. the ship came with just a small round housing for the round element with no provision for any other hoses. i'll get that project next, thanks

IF YOU GET ANOTHER AIR CLEANER

GO WITH A SIZE THAT FITS A 2-5/8 INCH CARB

I MEAN OUT OF THE BOX FITS METAL TO METAL!

SOME PLACES HAVE LIKE A 4 INCH (OR OTHER) OPENING IN WHICH THEY WANT YOU TO USE A CRAPPY PLASTIC ADAPTER/ REDUCER TO MAKE IT FIT YOURS. THIS IS JUNK! HEAT WARPS IT AND YOUR CLEANER SINKS ON ONE SIDE

IF YOU CAN FIND AN ALUMINUM/ POT METAL REDUCER IT IS SO MUCH BETTER (THIS WAS THE STANDARD BACK IN THE 70's AND 80's)

BUT AS BEFORE--THE BEST-US KIND IS ONE THAT FITS PERFECT WITH NO REDUCER

MANY COME WITH A FITTING, AND YOU "KNOCK OUT" THE KNOCK OUTS ON THE BOTTOM SIDE THEN BOLT THE FITTING ON.

ALSO IF YOU HAVE CHOICES, PRICE THE REPLACEMENT FILTERS FOR EACH CANDIDATE, THIS WILL SAVE YOU MONEY AT REPLACEMENT TIMES!

THE INTERNET MIGHT BE A GOOD PLACE TO SHOP?

STILL GOTTA DO PIC 3!

THE MEDIC

SEND ME 3 MORE!

THE MEDIC

hi medic
i'll get back with you after this storm clears out in a few days. snowed in here. working on the left rear tail light wiring, have it all apart and starting to go back together. found an original air cleaner in az that will be here in a week or so. slowly getting control of the beast. thanks for the help, talk to you later

WANNA COPY A PIC OFF OF HERE?

RIGHT CLICK ON THE LITTLE PIC

CHOOSE/ LEFT CLICK "OPEN LINK IN INCOGNITO WINDOW" OUT OF THE CHOICES

THE WINDOW SHOULD POP UP W/ THE PIC, NOW AT FULL SIZE

GET ON TOP OF IT AND RIGHT CLICK

CHOOSE/ LEFT CLICK "SAVE IMAGE AS"

ANOTHER BOX WILL POP UP

AT THE TOP- I CHOOSE "MY PICTURES" (OR ANOTHER DESTINATION, IF WANTED, JUST STICK W/ MY PICTURES!)

AT THE BOTTOM NAME THE PIC WITH IT'S OWN UNIQUE NAME OR NUMBER (LIKE CJ MED101, CJ MED102, ETC) THEN LEFT CLICK "SAVE"

THE PIC IS NOW YOURS (SAVED IN "MY PICTURES" ON YOUR COMPUTER)

DEPENDING ON YOUR COMPUTER, YOU CAN "EDIT" THE PIC (DARKEN, BRIGHTEN, CROP, ETC) MAKE IT BIGGER, SMALLER, FLIP, ENLARGE, PRINT, ETC

FOR INSTANCE, I TOOK A 1979 WIRE DIAGRAM (2 PAGES)

1979 WAS A GOOD YEAR IN THAT MOST OF THE BASIC (NON-COMPUTER) WIRING IS ABOUT THE SAME FROM '76-'86 (THE LATTER OF THOSE YEARS HAD A COMPUTER)

THIS DIAGRAM IS LIKE A MAP BETWEEN ALL OF THE ELECTRICAL PARTS, NEWER DIAGRAMS ARE LIKE FLOW CHARTS (EACH TYPE HAS IT'S OWN ADVANTAGES) I LIKE "THE MAP" MYSELF

I TOOK THEM TO THE "MICROSOFT PAINT" PROGRAM (SORTA PRIMITIVE) AND I COLORED EVERY WIRE TO THE BEST OF MY ABILITY TO THE CORRECT COLOR IT REALLY IS.

THE COLORS ARE LABELED SOMEWHERE ON THE WIRE

IF IT HAD A "TRACER" OR "STRIPE ON A WIRE (THE TRACER COLOR WAS NOT NOTED) EXAMPLE : DK.BLUE W/ TR 18 ( I COLORED THE WIRE DARK BLUE AND DOTTED THE WIRE W/ BLACK DASHES TO DISTINGUISH IT ("18" BEING THE GAUGE OF THE WIRE)

OF COURSE A "WHITE WIRE" IS A THIN BLACK LINE (WHITE IS NOTED SOMEWHERE ALONG IT)

IN PLACES, INFORMATION IS CRAMMED IN THERE, YOU MIGHT NOTICE THE BREAK IN THE WIRE IS INFORMATION, THE WIRE WOULD ACTUALLY TRAVEL ON THRU THE INFORMATION

FOR THE MOST PART, YOU CAN FIGGER IT OUT!

I EMAILED THE 2 HALVES TO AN OFFICE STORE

THEY ENLARGED IT QUITE A BIT

I ASSEMBLED THE 2 HALVES (THE JOIN, IS THRU THE FUSE BOX AREA)

THE RIGHT SIDE ON TOP (OVER THE OVERLAP) IS THE BEST FIT

I THEN HAD 'EM LAMINATE IT

(ALL FOR ABOUT $15-$20)

HERE'S MY GARAGE VERSION AND THE 2 PIECES

THE MEDIC

WHOOPS!

RIGHT HALF FAILED TO POST

HERE IT IS

THE MEDIC

Sorry to jump on an old post, but what exactly are you using here for the fuel tank vent instead of the charcoal vapor canister?

OK I MISSED WHERE YOU JUMPED ON, GLAD YOU DID!

HERE'S OUR MESSAGE YOU SENT

IF YOUR EMISSIONS ARE CHECKED IN YOUR REGION, MY DEAL JUST AIN'T GONNA FLY!

NOT CHECKED OR DEEMED TOO OLD TO CHECK

MY WAY WORKS JUST FINE OUTTA THE TANK AND ON THE CARB THE VAPORS ARE SUCKED INTO THE CANISTER VIA A VACUUM LINE WITH THE ELIMINATION OF THE VACUUM LINE, NUTHIN' REALLY GETS SUCKED THRU IT.

HOWEVER THE GREEN GARDEN HOSE COLORED HOSE (FROM THE TANK) DOES NEED TO BREATHE (AS WELL AS THE BOWL VENTS ON THE CARB).

THE GARDEN HOSE COLORED ONE IS FROM THE TANK, BEFORE IT GETS UP FRONT (IN THE REAR FENDER) THERE IS A LIQUID CHECK VALVE (FOR SPLASHING GAS) AND A ROLLOVER CHECK VALVE (IN CASE YOUR ROLL OVER)

THESE REMAIN OPEN TO VENT THE TANK, UNLESS: LIQUID TRIES TO COME OUT/ OR YOUR RIG IS UPSIDE DOWN!

MY FUEL FILTER DEALEE WAS EXTENDED UP WITH A PIECE OF FUEL LINE AND A CLEAR FUEL FILTER (TO ALLOW IT TO BREATH/ TO KEEP THE DIRT DAUBERS (BUGS) OUT OF MY LINE

IF YOU HAVE A CARTER BBD, I SIMPLY ADDED ANOTHER FUEL FILTER JUST BELOW THE "TEE" IN THE BOWL VENT LINES. HENCE I HAD 2 BREATHING FILTERS, ELIMINATED A FEW LINES AND MY CRUMBLING CANISTER.

SINCE THEN I HAVE ADDED A HOLLEY 390 CARB AND A OFFENHAUSER 4 BARREL INTAKE TO MY 258. (18 MPGs KICKING AROUND/ POWER IF I GET ON IT!) THAT ELIMINATED THE BOWL VENT FILTER.

I STILL HAVE THE OTHER. NO FUEL SMELLS AT ALL IN THE COCKPIT

I HAVE ALSO FOUND THAT EXHAUST STRAIGHT OUT THE BACK JUST ROLLS BACK IN (DRAFT SUCTION FROM THE BODY), SO I KICKED MINE OUT THE SIDE RIGHT BEHIND THE REAR TIRE, MOST OF IT DOES NOT CIRCULATE BACK IN.

FEEL FREE TO CREATE A FREE QUESTION AND ASK FOR ME OR SIMPLY JUST JUMP ON BOARD OF A POST I HAVE ANSWERED (I WILL GET AN EMAIL NOTIFIER), THIS WILL ALLOW OTHERS READING IT TO FIGGER THEIR STUFF OUT TOO, AND WE WILL BE ABLE TO POST PICS TOO!

I DO APPRECIATE YOU CONTACTING ME, KINDA LETS ME KNOW MY PECKING AIN'T ALL IN VAIN! THIS AID AT ALL? THE MEDIC

### Hi Medic, I noticed in a previous post that you are using some sort of clear fuel filter for the vent line coming from the tank instead of the charcoal vapor canister. How exactly does this work? My charcoal canister is shot and when I removed the lines from it and plugged the vacuum hoses, I have a bad fuel smell in the cab of my cj7. As finding another vapor canister is almost impossible and $$$, I am looking for other options. Does your little fuel filter keep the gas smell out of the cab? Thanks!

PICS
1) GREEN HOSE/ FUEL FILTER FOR BREATHING
2) THIS IS WHERE I ADDED THE OTHER FUEL FILTER WHEN I HAD A BBD/ IF YOU PLUG THESE VENTS, WHEN YOU SHUT OFF THE ENGINE, THE FUEL SORTA BOILS OUT OF THE CARB ALL OVER THE ENGINE
3) NOTE: MY EXHAUST BLOWS OUT THE SIDE, NOT THE BACK

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Thanks for your response Medic.

to follow up, passing emissions is not an issue for me. I have a weber 32/36, have done the nutter bypass, and currently have the EGR blocked off. Off my weber I have the ported vacuum going to the distributor, and my PCV connects to the front base plate of the weber. The manifold vacuum is connected to my brake booster, and all other vacuum lines are blocked off. The carb bowl vent is open to the air. This is when noticed two things: an increased smell of gas in the cabin, and also it was a little more difficult to start the jeep.

I thought about hooking the canister back up, but I am not sure if my canister is leaking vacuum, in addition, upon removing it, its hard as a rock and I cannot feel any loose charcoal move it in. I assume that its now one solid rock of charcoal, and probably not effective anymore anyway.

As it seem almost impossible to find a new canister, or its pretty darn expensive, I am now looking at other options to include bypassing the canister all together. In my setup, I assume that I can use the glass fuel filter coming from the tank and mount this to the firewall. How does this really work? Does fuel in the glass bowl keep the fumes from escaping, but allow it to when/ if it builds up pressure? Should I loop the carb bowl vent back onto the base of the weber airfilter so that any fumes simply get put right back into the top of the car to be burned? Is anything else required in my setup?

Thanks in advance. (From what I have read so far, you are a huge asset to folks out here!!!)
-Dennis

NOTHING COMPLICATED AT ALL

THE ONLY THINGS THAT WILL OCCUR IS

1) FUEL TANK EXPANSION MAY PUSH A FEW FUMES OUT (REMEMBER, THERE AIN'T NO SUCTION ACTION AS WAS WITH THE CANISTER AND IT'S VACUUM LINE) FILLING UP WITH FUEL MIGHT PUSH SOME OUT AS WELL

2) TANK CONTRACTION AND FUEL USAGE MIGHT SUCK IN AIR THRU THE VENT LINE

3) THE FILTER ON THE END IS A CHEAP $3 PLASTIC VOLKSWAGEN TYPE FILTER, IT IS "DRY", ALL IT DOES IS KEEP TRASH AND BUGS OUT OF THE LINE, WHILE ALLOWING AIR TO PASS BOTH WAYS.

WHEN I HAD A BBD CARB, I INSTALLED THE SAME KINDA FILTER ONTO THE BOTTOM OF THE PLASTIC TEE IN MY PIC

I NEVER TRIED SUCKING IT BACK THRU THE CARB (OR VACUUM PORTS), THAT WOULD BE ONE MORE LINE TO MAINTAIN OR TAKE LOOSE TO GET THE BREATHER OFF, OR IF ON A PORT, IT WOULD PROBABLY MAKE THINGS RICHER

IN DOING THESE MODIFICATIONS, I'VE NEVER HAD A FUEL SMELL ISSUE

OTHER PLACES TO LOOK FOR FUEL ESCAPING IS ALONG YOUR RETURN LINE TO THE TANK

AND OF COURSE, WHEN IN MOTION, SWIRLING EXHAUST COMING BACK INTO THE JEEP

I HAD A WEBER LIKE YOURS BEFORE I GOT MY HOLLEY (WHICH I LIKE THE BESTUS)

IN MY QUEST FOR MORE MPGs, I BOUGHT A BUNCH OF JETS AND OTHER GOODIES, I EVEN MODIFIED A SPARE AIR CLEANER SO I COULD USE "NORMAL" FILTERS AND HAVE FORCED AIR INTO IT. ALONG WITH A METICULOUS LOG BOOK AS TO WHAT I DID

I HAD GOTTEN FRUSTRATED WITH THE WEBER, 16 MPG WAS ABOUT ALL I COULD DO

I BOUGHT THE OFFY INTAKE AND THE HOLLEY 390

I DID NOT CARE ABOUT THE COST- I WAS GONNA GET BETTER MPGs EVEN IF I WENT BROKE!

USING THESE METHODS IN THIS LINK BELOW (O2 SENSOR AND AIR/ FUEL RATIO GAUGE ALONG WITH POWER VALVE SELECTION + HIS OTHER SUGGESTIONS) I WAS ABLE TO GET A STEADY (NORMAL DRIVING) 18 MPG (AND MORE POWER IF NEEDED)

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

I DO APPRECIATE THE POSITIVE COMMENTS!

ANY OTHER STUFF YOU NEED TO KNOW, KEEP ASKIN'

I DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH SEARCHIN' YOU'VE DONE,

THE BOSSES SAY "SEARCHIN'" "MAKES AND MODELS" (SPECIFIC VEHICLES-LIKE CJ5/7) WILL ONCE AGAIN BE EZier TO DO! I'VE ANSWERED MOST OF 'EM SINCE I'VE BEEN HERE.

HERE'S ONE ONE OF MY EARLY ANSWERS THAT MIGHT BE REAL HELPFUL, IF YOU HAVEN'T SEEN IT ALREADY

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Thanks for the additional info and links. I have done quite a bit of research (who knows how many hours/days...) but only stumbled upon this site the other day. I have already started to read some of the previous posts, and its giving me some good ideas/knowledge! I will have to finish the articles after work though....

My exhaust already comes out just behind the rear tire, but I still need to check for gas line leaks along the return line (which I assume you're referring to the 2nd line off the main fuel filter, right?)

Regarding the VW filter, do you happen to have a part# that I could grab from you?
Also, is there still a need to run the fuel vent line all the way from the tank to above the canister? Can you just mount the line and VW filter high in the rear wheel well, as long as its after the roll over valves?? (Sorry, I haven't checked myself yet)?

THANKS!!!

THE REASON I MOUNTED MY VENT/ FILTER HIGH WAS FOR THAT "JUST IN CASE" POSSIBILITY THAT THE CHECKS IN THE DRIVER'S SIDE REAR FENDER LEAKED OR FAILED (DUE TO AGE). I FIGGERED THAT IN BOUNCING AROUND/ CLIMBING/ TILTING SIDEWAYS ON AN INCLINE, FUEL WOULD HAVE TO CLIMB HIGH UP IN THE VENT TO GET OUT. THE OTHER REASON BEING IF I DID GET IN DEEPER WATER, WATER WOULD HAVE TO BE ALMOST UP TO THE HOOD BEFORE IT COULD SEEP INTO THE VENT.

WHATEVER YOU DO, DEFINITELY GO ON THE OUTLET END OF BOTH CHECKS (TANK, THEN CHECKS, THEN THE VENT

I SORTA GOT MY FEEL DOING THE EXTREME KINDA STUFF WITH CJ-5s 1-5 WHEN I WAS A BIT YOUNGER. I DO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT A PRETTY MUCH STOCK CJ-5 CAN AND CAN'T DO! IF THE NEED EVER AROSE, I COULD PUSH THE LIMITS WITH "MR. JEEP" ('77 CJ-5) OR "WILLY" (MY '46 WILLYS)

HOWEVER, I WILL SOMETIMES CLIMB, DESCEND OR GET THE RIGHT OR LEFT SIDE HIGHER, BUT MORE OF A GENTLE BUNNY SLOPE KINDA WAY. I AVOID MUD, BUT IF IT'S THE ONLY WAY TO GO, TO GET TO MY DESIRED DESTINATION, I'LL GO THRU IT! BUT KEEP IN MIND, I DON'T JUST DIVE IN, I FIND THE EZ WAY THRU IT.

HERE'S THE FILTER, I LIKE IT BECAUSE IT'S CHEAP AND YOU CAN CHOP IT OFF (THE ENDS ARE STEPPED FOR DIFFERENT SIZES). I USE 'EM FOR DIFFERENT THINGS, ONE WAY BEING, ADD A FUNNEL AND SOME TUBING AND YOU CAN STRAIN GAS OUT OF A DIRTY CAN. YOU CAN USE ANY FILTER WITH THE RIGHT SIZED NIPPLES

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-fuel-filter-e100033434bos/10809890-P?searchTerm=fuel+filters

SO, HAS ANY OF MY STUFF FROM OTHER POSTS AIDED YOU AT ALL?

IF YOU DO A GOOGLE SEARCH AND INSTALL "2carpros" AND "CJ MEDEVAC" THEN CLICK ON IMAGES, 90% OR BETTER OF THE DIAGRAMS AND PICS ARE MINE, ALTHOUGH I HAVE ANSWERED 8,981 QUESTIONS, SOME OF THE PICS WILL BELONG TO CJ POSTS, OTHERS MIGHT GO WITH ANY VEHICLE I ANSWERED (MOST OF THE TIME I WILL STICK IN MY JEEP PHOTOS, TO SHOW THE CAR/ TRUCK PEOPLE WHAT THEY ARE MISSING!). "JEEP RELATED" DIAGRAMS MIGHT TAKE YOU TO CJs

PICS BELOW

1+2) JEEP OEM FUEL SET UP (THE REGULATOR AND MINI FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE ARE "BELLS AND WHISTLES" I ADDED ON, I ALSO BENT NEW STEEL LINES TO DRESS IT UP SOME)

3) FUEL TANK DIAGRAM

4) THE FILTER AND PIPE EXTENSION I ADDED (I SHOW IT AGAIN TO GO WITH DIAGRAM 3, FOR OTHERS WHO MIGHT SEE THIS)

YOUR TURN-KEEP DISHING OUT THE QUESTIONS! OR REMIND ME OF ANY I DID NOT ADDRESS.

THE MEDIC

Thanks Medic
As the filter from AA was ship to home only, I looked for other sources and found this. You may be interested in it if you use a lot of them:
http://www.amazon.com/FUEL-FILTER-dune-buggy-baja/dp/B003LIZ2H4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

10 filters with free shipping under $6

I have only had a chance to do some reading from your other posts as I was busy last night working n my other car- brakes!

I did have one question regarding a statement that you made:
WHATEVER YOU DO, DEFINITELY GO ON THE OUTLET END OF BOTH CHECKS (TANK, THEN CHECKS, THEN THE VENT

What exactly do you mean here?

Thanks again!!!
PS as soon as I fix this up, I'll be working on figuring out my blow by from the rear "breather" opening in the valve cover.......

I JUST KNOWED THAT WOULD BE CONFUSING, BUT I LEFT IT ANYWAY!

WORKED TILL ALMOST MIDNIGHT LAST NIGHT, SORRY, I WANTED TO GET ON HERE, BUT THE BED WAS A SWEETER DEAL!

I MEANT

VENT IT HOWEVER, AFTER THE CHECK VALVES. NOT ELIMINATE THEM. NOT SPLICE IN BETWEEN OR BEFORE THEM. SO BASICALLY, THE ORIGINAL WAY WITHOUT THE CANISTER

BLOW BY?

I HOPE YOU HAVE LITTLE

THAT REAR HOLE IS FRESH AIR TO BE SUCKED INTO VALVE COVER/ INTERNAL ENGINE.

IT REPLENISHES THE CONTAMINATED AIR/ WATER VAPOR/ COMBUSTION GASSES (BLOW-BY) THAT, IF LEFT IN THERE, WILL CORRODE THE METAL PARTS INSIDE

IF I REMOVE THE REAR HOLE ELBOW AND PUT MY THUMB ON THE HOLE, (IF ALL IS "IDEAL") WITH THE PCV SUCKING (NORMALLY) MY ENGINE WILL BEGIN TO LOSE RPMs (STARTS DYING DOWN)--AS THE PCV (EVEN THOUGH IT'S SUCKING BAD GASSES) PROVIDES THE CARB/ INTAKE WITH PART OF THE "COMBUSTION AIR" IT NEEDS TO PRODUCE BEST AIR/FUEL MIX IT CAN.

WHEN THE ENGINE NOW RUNNING KINDA BAD, I REMOVE MY THUMB, AND I HEAR A BIG RUSH OF AIR SUCK INTO THE REAR HOLE. THE ENGINE IS RUNNING PERFECTLY AGAIN!

IF THIS DOES NOT OCCUR, EITHER YOUR GASKETS ON THE ENGINE BLOCK (VALVE COVER AND OIL PAN, EVEN A REALLY BAD REAR MAIN OR TIMING COVER SEALS) ARE SUCKING AIR OR YOU HAVE A LOT OF PISTON BLOW-BY. USUALLY ANY BLOW-BY IS SEEN PUMPING A LOT OF SMOKE OUT OF THE REAR VALVE COVER HOLE

USING THE INCORRECT PCV MIGHT ALLOW TOO MUCH OR TOO LITTLE AIR, AS WELL AS PLUGGING IT OFF, CRIMPING THE LINE. THE LACK OF THIS AIR WILL MIGHT NEAR MAKE IMPOSSIBLE TO SET YOUR MIX SCREWS CORRECTLY.

KEEP IT COMING

THE MEDIC

Yes, I need to do some compression tests to see if I can figure out if there is an issue with the rings. About 20 years ago.... (wow, its been that long...?) I replaced the rear main seal as it was leaking. So obviously I had to take off the oil pan. Unfortunately initially I nicked the "camshaft??" slightly, and that made the oil loss worse. I replaced the seal a few times before I eventually sanded down the little nick so that it was smooth again, and that seemed to help with oil loss. I did see a small drop of oil in the general area of the rear main seal last time I was looking around under there. So you're saying its possible for air to get through there and cause smoky oil to come out of the rear valve cover (which btw is aluminium, and no longer plastic)?

Recently I replaced the PCV valve, although I am still getting air that comes out, not into the valve cover....
Also to note, I only have smoke coming out, and not a ton, under idle (or acceleration).... as I recently changed up the vacuum lines, I need to verify which one is currently causing the issue of smoke escape. I'll take a look at that this weekend, especially since my new fuel filters arrive tomorrow and I'll be messing with those?
Regarding the carb bowl vent, should I attach a line and filter from the carb to along the firewall that is inline with the filter from the tank? I imagine that you would want to keep this filter in a vertical position to serve its purpose...

NICKED THE "CRANKSHAFT" THE REAR MAIN SURROUNDS IT


THE PIC I SHOWED THE CARB BOWL VENT HOSES (TEEed) TOGETHER AND ONE OF THEM FILTERS HOOKED ON TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TEE. ORIENTATION DOES NOT MATTER, FUEL DOES NOT COME OUT OF THESE HOSES, IT JUST NEEDS TO BREATHE.

IF YOU CAP 'EM OFF, WHEN YOU STOP DRIVING AND SHUT IT OFF, THE INABILITY TO "VENT" WILL MAKE THE BOWL SORTA BOIL OVER AND RUN OUT OF ANY OPENING (NOT ONLY A BIG FUEL SMELL, BUT A FIRE HAZARD TOO!)

I RECKON YOU COULD TIE THE BOWL VENTS TO THE FUEL TANK VENT, JUST REQUIRES MORE HOSE, A TEE, AND THAT'S JUST ONE MORE HOSE TO MAINTAIN AND CLUTTER THE COMPARTMENT!

WHEN I GET HOME, I'LL SEE IF I CAN TAKE PICS OF THE VENT HOSE ROUTING FROM THE REAR TO THE FRONT

THE MEDIC

OH YEAH,

I DISCUSSED MY THUMB OVER THE REAR VALVE COVER HOLE.

IF ALL GASKETS ARE PERFECT, IT WILL PULL A VACUUM ON THE WHOLE INTERNAL ENGINE.

IF YOU DO HAVE A GASKET THAT'S NOT PERFECT (HOPEFULLY NOT LEAKING) IT MAY NOT ALLOW THE SUCTION ON YOUR THUMB...

IT WILL STILL SUCK OUT THE BAD GASSES AND IT WILL STILL GIVE THE CARB THE COMBUSTION AIR IT NEEDS! (THAT IS, UNTIL OVER TIME AND WEAR BLOW-BY FINALLY OVERCOMES THE PCVs ABILITY TO OUT-SUCK IT!)

I DON'T MEAN TO BE CONFUSING, IT IS HEREDITARY!

THE MEDIC

Thanks for the additional information. I was not able to work much on my jeep this weekend other than replacing the black passenger side mirror with a stainless steel one that I had lying around. My fuel filters were supposed to arrive on Saturday, but got pushed back until today, so guess what I'm doing after work!

Regarding the rear valve cover hole, currently it does not have a vacuum on this. I have noticed that the valve cover has a slight leak on the drivers side which I'll need to replace at some point, but I never made the connection that a leaky gasket could be a source of air. I don;t believe the amount of oil leaking there would be enough to cause this, but its probably worth replacing anyway to see if it makes a difference.

Back to the carb bowl vent, on my 32/36 Webber, basically off the front corner I would attach a small piece of line, and then the fuel filter correct? So I guess it doesn't matter if the filter is horizontal or vertical here right?

Thanks Medic!!

FORGOT YOU HAD THE WEBER

I'M PRETTY SURE THERE IS NOT A BOWL VENT PORT ON IT

SO YOU PROBABLY AIN'T GOTTA WORRY ABOUT IT!

THOSE DIAGRAMS I SENT WERE FOR THE CARTER 2 BBL BBD, MY HOLLEY 390 DOES NOT HAVE A PORT FOR THE BOWL TO VENT EITHER

THE MEDIC

The weber has a breather port on the front corner (see attached diagram). Also last night I attached the fuel filter for the tank breather, and was able to do so on the bolt off the back of the brake booster. (see attached)
Regarding the rear valve cover breather that is currently blowing smoke, as this is used to draw in fresh air for the crankcase, you mentioned that air may be leaking in elsewhere, and I think I have an idea. As I have the aluminum valve cover now, the oil fill plug sort of sits in there and doesn't actually fit tight. I imagine this may be a large source of air leak. As this is the case, should I look to find a special plug that I can fit an expandable crank down type of plug, or can I just seal off the back opening that is currently leaking smoky air since its obviously already getting air from elsewhere?

IT MAY BE THAT YOU ARE GETTING MORE BLOW-BY ON THE PISTON RINGS THAN THE PCV CAN SUCK OUT.

HERE'S SOME PICS OF DIFFERENT GROMMETS

I'VE BEEN THINKIN' 'BOUT A CHROME VALVE COVER SEEN ON EBAY FOR ABOUT $30, THE OLE GREEN PAINT LOOKED GOOD 10 YEARS AGO, AT LEAST THE CHROME MIGHT STAY ON A LITTLE BETTER.

HERE'S SOME READING MATERIAL!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-crown-victoria-aod-transmission-time-shift-2nd-gear-roughly-30mph-locks

ONE MORE LINK TO ONE OF MY HELL DAMAGED JEEPS

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-grand-cherokee-1997-jeep-grand-cherokee--2

THE MEDIC

I think the green makes it look more classic. Yes, I need to check the rings to see if I am loosing compression there.
In the meantime, should I not close the rear "breather" to keep smoky fumes from escaping? Shouldn't a loose oil cap provide enough air for the PCV system to draw fumes across the valves and do there thing?

HOW 'BOUT ONE OF THESE?

http://www.autozone.com/chrome-and-dress-up/breather-cap/spectre-performance-oil-breather-cap/309741_0_0/?checkfit=true

CHEAP ENOUGH -LOOKS DECENT

THE MEDIC

Busy weekend here- Do I actually need a breather valve if my oil cap doesn't fit tight anyway and is an obvious source of allowing air to flow into the valve cover?

HERE'S THE ONE FOR THE PLASTIC VALVE COVER

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/omix-ada-oil-cap-17403.02/10181232-P?searchTerm=engine+oil+filler+cap

THIS ONES FOR THE METAL COVER

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/omix-ada-oil-cap-17403.01/10946280-P?searchTerm=oil+filler+cap+-performance

THOUGHT YOU LOVED YOUR JEEP?

GONNA LET HIM SUCK IN NASTY DIRTY AIR JUST TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS?!

THE MEDIC

Of course I love Him! lol

Here is the valve cover I have
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Engine-Performance/Aluminum-Valve-Cover-Kit.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=552&t_pt=8136&t_pn=OAI17401.08

As it appears to be made by OA, I am hoping the above oil fill plug will fit.... however the one that came with it, and the one that I have on it now are more of a simple push in rubber plug.

Both of mine LOVE me!

Keep the questions rolling!

NEVER EVER

Get roped into owning a MONEY PIT!

Wifey had to have it 10 years ago, I was consulted, however, my "NO" answer was overridden

Seems I have become the above ground 33 foot "POOL BOY"

Even though I despise the dang thang, I have to maintain it, sink my fundage into chemicals/ toys, to top it off, I do not even get in it!

I've been attempting to open it up for the squatters to use/ destroy for the last few days. I haven't had much time to get on Mr. Computer.

A divorce would be a much cheaper option. Probably have fewer arguments too!

The Medic

It's not cheaper...

Okay

350 some odd dollars spent on the money pit today for chemicals.

I hate the darn thing!

That kinda fundage coulda went on my jeeps! Windshield for Mr. Jeep, paint and new decals for Willy!

Been workin' on your buddy?

The Medic

Did a compression test this weekend:
Cylinder
1. 160, 160
2. 152, 152
3. 155, 157
4. 172, 172
5. 158, 160
6. 160, 160

All of these are very high, which may be related to carbon buildup....

Leakdown test
Cyl 1, air immediately heard and felt leaking from oil dipstick and felt from PCV opening

So, it looks like I have bad rings and will need at the least to do a new or machined head, rod bearings,,,,

Fun weekend, but basically what I was concerned with all along which explains the blow by

Reckon running a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (in place of a quart of motor oil) for your next oil change might clean up your rings and maybe better your compression?

The Medic

I'll definitely try giving that a shot. It cant hurt!

I'm here for ya

Keep me posted on progress

or

Ask more questions!

Found the pic on the net

The Medic

so true!