Engine will not start up and run?

If the check engine light is on then we should run the codes to see what comes up which should lead us to the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run this test and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken

I ran the diagnostics but no codes come up.

Sorry you said that in the post. Lets check the engine for compression to see if we have an engine.

Here is a guide to help us get started.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

thanks for your suggestions but I seem to think that my problem lies with the ECU. My question now is if I replace the ECU what steps will I need to take to make sure that the key is going to work since it is a PATS key?

It will may need to be reprogrammed so everything works. There is an initiation process that sometimes needs to be done. If you try a used one it should work.

If i get a used one from the salvage yard what steps need to be taken to make sure the key is going to work? Is there an instruction video or tutorial on doing this? I want to be sure how to correctly do this so i dont screw it up. Thank you very much.

You should be fine because the PATS does only one function for the ECM. Here is a security system wiring diagram so you can see how the system works. (BELOW)

ok replaced the fuel pump.engine turning over fine.just want start.pretty sure the fuel pressure is fine.i think i need a noid light to see if my injectors are pulsing.and if the noid light isnt blinking,what else might be the problem????

First make sure the pressure is good. If it is, then check for an injector pulse. If there isn't one, follow it back to the PCM. If there is no output there, chances are it is bad.

My truck overheated on the freeway and when I pulled over I checked the coolant and coolant reservoir and they were both empty. I bought coolant and put it in and 10mins after it had all poured out because there was a crack in the radiator. I fixed the radiator and put more coolant in and now it will turn over but won't start up.

You may have gotten it too hot a blew a head gasket. You need to pressure test the cooling system with all the spark plugs removed to look for coolant in the cylinders.

Electrical problem
1998 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 103k miles

I have a 98 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC / automatic trans. The car has a bit over 103k miles, and has always ran great. Recently the car won't restart after driving. If I wait a few hours the car will start with no problem. It does idle really slow, about 4-6 hundred rpms. I have recently replaced the crankshaft position sensor, ignition coil, fuel filter, and the starter, but the problem still occurs. I have also checked all the fuses in the dash, and under the hood, and they are all good. Any suggestions?

The check engine light used to come on periodically before I changed out the sensor, now it never comes on. The spark plugs are also receiving power.

Hi jpleasants,

Thank you for the donation.

Since sparks are available, then you should check the fuel pressure.

When engine could not start, does turning the ignition ON operates the fuel pump?
Did you test the fuel pressure?

I'm pretty sure I heard the fuel system prime whenever I turned the key. I do not know how to check the fuel pressure.

I know it's getting gas, because I changed out the fuel filter, and it ran fine after that.

Under normal circumstances the fuel pump is working, but when engine could not be started, that is the time to check and confirm that the fuel pump is working.

To check the fuel pressure, you would need a pressure gauge attached to the fuel supply line.

Okay, I'll check the pressure next time it happens. I have no way of knowing when the car will fail again, since it's an unpredictable problem.

If there is pressure in the lines generated by the pump, what else could I troubleshoot?

thanks again.

If sparks and fuel pressure are available, then you need to check if the injectors are working. A noid light would enable you to test if the injector circuits are firing.

I am haveing trouble getting the truck started. I have replaced the fuel cut off switch and it still will not start. i did replace the fuel pump a few months ago.(used one) i have used a test light to test the plug that the cut off switch plugs into and the light is very dim. I am lost from here.

Thanks
NateLang

Is the fuel pump working? Have you checked pressure? When you say cut off switch, are you refering to the auto shut down (ASD)? Will the engine start for a few seconds with starting fluid?

the switch that im talking about is the fuel inertia switch. the pump is not kicking on at all.

Nate:
Now I understand what you're talking about. You mentioned that the light is very dim. Is that before the switch? Do you have a volt meter? It should have 12 volts to it. If it doesn't, there could be a wiring issue. If you run a jumper wire to it, will the engine run?

Every couple of days my truck will not start for me. It usually happens when it sits for a while and sometimes if I wait a while it will start right up. I've had it sitting at a auto repair shop for over a week and they can not duplicate the problem. The radio will come on and it does crank when these episodes occur. PLEASE help!!

Hi there,

When the engine won't start you will have to determine if you have spark, fuel delivery & injection pulse, run a diagionstic scan even if there is no engine check light, if there is no set fault code the problem will be in something that is not controlled by the ECU, start your diagionstic test here.

mark (mhpautos)

I have a 98 Eddie Bauer explorer with 130,000 miles. The car will crank, but won't start on an intermittent basis. It seems to be worse in the summer or, in general, when it is very hot outside. Occasioanlly it will sound like the engine is catching and then it just dies; at other times it cranks and then whines, but won't start. I have had a complete tuneup and replaced the battery. It always seems to start for the mechanic when I take it in for repairs. What could this be?

My symptoms lasted a month in the morning or after parked for longer than 6 hours it is hard starting. If it stays running after it stars up then it is the fuel pump. It has a built-in check valve that is clogged with debris. The fuel in the fuel line and fuel injectors drain back down to the tank slowly starving them. Before starting the engine, first try turning on the igition key several times without starting it to pressurize the fuel line. The engine should start.

My SUV has a hard time starting when I take long trips and turn it off, do a bunch of errands. It doesnt turn over...just kinda churns. But it only happens when it get warm out. No problems all winter.

The best part is it only does it with me...no one is ever there and I'm starting to think they dont beleive me.

I've been told its the batter and/or conections.

Can anyone help me??

Thanks,
Renee

Renee:
Is the starter working properly when this happens?

I guess...lastnight it actually turned over and started...but was just "putting" like it wanted to start and stall. Even when I hit the gas...it just "putted".

There is never a problem when it is cold out (winter)...but the last few days (east coast) we have been in the 70 and 80...and it is starting to not start again...no pun.

if it is the starter what would I be hearing? Sorry to sound like such a women. But this has been going on for 2+ years.

It sounds like the starter is working fine. Is there any black smoke coming from the exhaust?

Nope...no smoke.

If the car is run for a long time and turned off...or run for a lot of short trips and turned off each time...it wont turn over.

When this happens, have you checked to see if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine?

No...No a mechanic. The horrible part is no one is ever there when it happens. So I cant show anyone only explain it.

But it would be something that only happens when the weather is warm/hot.

If I give you directions, do you feel you could check?

sure...that would be great.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

You'll need a couple tools to do this. Most parts stores will lend or rent them to you. Once you complete the test, let me know the outcome. Let me know if you have questions after watching the videos and reading the directions, and as always, thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

Last week my explorer drove about a hundred feet and sputtered and then stopped. I was at work while this happened, and it ran fine there. My first thought was fuel filter, because I always run my tank low and I have 133,000miles on my baby. I replaced the filter but no luck. My mechanic told me to check to see if the fuel pump was working so I tested the injectors to see if the fuel was coming through and it was. My mechanic later ran a computer test on it and he said he could not find the problem. He suggested my plugs might be fouled out due to me trying to start my car so much. So I replaced all six spark plugs, that was hell, along with new plug wires. I still have had no luck and am desperately lookin for someone to help.Just an extra note. When my car sits for a few days it starts up for like 2 seconds then turns off. I personally think it has somethin to due with fuel. [/b]

Did you run a pressure test to make sure the fuel pressure is up to the correct pressure? That might be it. Also did you check the air cleaner no clogs or blockage there?

Will do. The videos say that these two thigs if weak or in need of repair will cause all the things I am actually having problems with. But could these things only happen in warm weather?

Test Ignition System (if not working properly it could cause: Stall While Driving, Misfire & cranks that won’t start)

Test Fuel Pressure (if not working properly it could cause: Low power, hard starting & Stall While Driving)

Ya I checked the sensors on the intake, and all were clean, but what could possibly be stuck in my intake. To ckeck my gas flow i pushed in on the injector test spot and gas came flyin out,is that how you test your fuel pressure? Whenever I sprayed eyther in the intake my car revs to like 5000rpms(while im holding the gas) and then quits. I did some researching and found out that the vaccum hose may of come off. Could this be my problem?If I don't have enough fuel pressure what will need to be replaced?

Believe it or not, either could be affected by temp. That is why I need to know which is missing when it won't run. THen I can limit what needs checked.