Cannot shift into any gear?

Hi,

It sounds like the slave or the clutch master cylinder. Since it can be shifted with the engine off, it isn't a transmission or linkage issue. The clutch isn't releasing.

I attached the clutch bleeding procedure below. Take a look and let me know if you have already done this. If you haven't, try it to see if there is possible air in the system. Hopefully, that is all that is wrong.

Let me know.

Take care,

joe

See pics below.

Hi and thanks for the reply. I see where the damper is. Question though. Those lines do not attach to my master cylinder, but a couple do go to the brake master. Does that still help me bleed the clutch system? If so, do I then need to bleed the Clutch Master? I am replacing the clutch master thinking that might be the issue. I understand that it is slave first then damper by the way. Just wondering about damper part of it and if I then bleed the master last, or not? Thanks

Hi,

It's been a while since I've worked on one of these, but if I recall, the brake master cylinder also functions as the clutch MC fluid reservoir. That is what I believe you are seeing.

And yes, after the new clutch master cylinder is installed, then follow the bleed procedures.

Let me know if that takes care of the problem. I'm hoping it does because if the slave is the issue, I believe the transmission needs to be removed to replace it.

Let me know.

Joe

Link to the vacuum pump if it opens for you.
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-vacuum-pump/p/oemtools-vacuum-pump/2080_0_0

Update to my own and Last 2 Posts. I bled slave and damper once again. Felt pretty confident there's no air but still a little skeptical. Did the gravity, not the pump.
Anyway, put truck in gear - Then started it, didn't lunge forward but did move forward so I left it in second gear and drove. Was able to shift from 2nd to third and back (with some resistance) 1st gear was tougher but did go in. Also, could force it into reverse. Gears did Not grind but it definitely wasn't smooth as it should be normally. Took a little muscle. Shifting was easier when I was moving as opposed to from a stop. Clutch pedal feels decent but maybe too easy? Maybe should have a little more resistance - maybe. Feels like the clutch pedal has a lot of travel distance, from all the way up to pretty much the floor. Not play so much as travel distance. It is a 1995 so maybe that's why. Thoughts?

Hi,

It sounds like there could still be air in the system or the slave or Master Cylinder is bad. As far as a bent fork, do you think the person that installed it would have checked or noticed?

Let me know.

Joe

Hey Joe, so both Slave and Master are brand new. Just put those in. I'm thinking the guy would have noticed a bent fork when he installed it. Not sure what else I can do to try and get more air out short of a vacuum pump or a professional doing it.

Hi,

Did you follow the directions I listed above? That is what the manual indicates needs done. You can do it as well as a shop.

I agree about the clutch fork. If you have a helper press the clutch pedal, can you see the slave working? If the hydraulics are working and then it has to be mechanical. Don't laugh, but is the transmission fully seated against the engine? Is there a chance you got a faulty pressure plate or release bearing?

Let me know.

Joe

Hey Joe,

Yes, I followed the instructions. Basically, slave first the damper. I did that, until I didn't see bubbles. Need to check the tranny to engine seating tomorrow. And yes, I suppose the pressure plate or release bearing was faulty. No clue though. Also, when I bled the slave, I did see the slave working. Everything was fine there.

Hi,

If the slave is working, then it's either a mechanical issue internally or how it was put together.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

Well, had a mechanic come and rebleed my system. He feels confident it's the synchronizers. Says it's why I can shift when it's not running and why It's very difficult to shift when it's running. Ugh not the news I wanted. What's your thoughts Joe?

Did you have this issue prior to replacing the clutch assembly? Synchronizers don't just fail. If there was no problem before, I doubt that is the cause. However, anything is possible.

Did the mechanic check the transmission fluid to make sure it was clean and full?

Let me know.

joe

No problem prior to clutch failure. It was running fine, then I heard a pretty loud thunk/noise and then basically had no ability to shift. Then a new clutch was installed and after that I had the current problem which is difficulty shifting. He did not check transmission fluid as far as I know. Dumb question, is there transmission fluid in a manual? I assumed clutch fluid was part of that.

No problem prior to clutch failure. It was running fine, then I heard a pretty loud thunk/noise and then basically had no ability to shift. Then new clutch installed and after that I had the current problem which is difficulty shifting. He did not check tranny fluid as far as I know. Dumb question, is there tranny fluid in a manual? I assumed clutch fluid was part of that.

Hi,

There is transmission fluid. It's actually GL4 gear lube. See pic below. If it is low or excessively dirty, it can cause a hard shift. This is absolutely worth checking.

Here is a video I found on YouTube. The young man did a nice job explaining things. Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAlgOmp4pv8

Let me know your thoughts.

Joe

See pic below.

I will check the transmission fluid myself. Where I'm checking for the fluid has a bolt with a recessed square opening, like it would fit the end of a 1/2 drive ratchet or extension without the socket. Is that what i use? Also, can you confirm for me please if this is what I use if it's low?
multipurpose gear oil API GL-4; SAE 75W-90 or 80W-90.
Thanks, Jose

Just realized after I sent this last text that you had responded with a YouTube video.
Thanks, I will look into this first. You've been amazingly helpful and kind, Very much appreciated :)

Hi,

You are very welcome. I hope this is all that is needed. Rather than adding fluid if it is low, drain it and refill it with the 75-90 GL4. It has 200,000 on it and I suspect it has never been serviced.

Let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe

I will let you know. Thanks

Hey Joe, so I changed transmission fluid completely. It actually drove better but not all the way back. I have to start it in gear or force it in to first then start it. Once I am driving it shifts from 2nd to 3rd then 4th and 5th with no problems, Drives great. After a complete stop it's very difficult to get into 1st. 2nd is a little tough but not bad and then I can proceed and drive great once moving. 1st gear and Reverse I have the most trouble with vehicle running. Both those gears are fine if I put it in gear prior to starting but both of those gears will cause the car to move slowly forward or in reverse, but it will go. So, I don't have trouble shifting while driving/moving and by the way I can force it into 1st while it's running but very difficult and I have to turn it off completely to put in reverse and then it will go. Reverse is the only one I hear some grinding, like it's spinning and so have to turn it off and then put it in reverse.

Hi,

If it is first and reverse only, I am back to the clutch not fully releasing. Just for curiosity, when you drained the old fluid, how dirty was it? Did you have any trouble refilling it?

Let me know.

Joe

I thought it was pretty dirty or so it seemed. I'm not sure what you mean by trouble filling it. I can't say that I did. Just put two quarts and about another third to a half, re-plugged it and then drove it around some.

Hi,

On some, the fill plug isn't easy to access which often leads to not fully filling it. If it is shifting easily with the engine off and hard in first and reverse with it running, my first suspect is something with the clutch.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe

The fill plug was on the side of course and the transmission itself was up close to the undercarriage which made it impossible to tip a bottle into it, so I just ran a clear line through the engine bay and down to the fill port and poured from above the engine bay. Anyway, it makes me wonder if my original clutch installer from the very beginning, (Dave) was right in saying he thought it was a bent clutch fork. Is there a way to diagnose if it's the clutch fork specifically? That would prevent the pressure plate from releasing completely, right? Or if it's a bearing or something misaligned in the clutch itself it presents a somewhat major effort to fix. On this truck the exhaust system is one piece from the headers to the tailpipe. They had to physically cut the exhaust pipe, (no place at all to disconnect it to access removing the clutch), then everything involved in unbolting the tranny - driveshaft, unbolt tranny, pull axles out, etc. I'm not afraid to attempt that. I'm really good at R and R, it's just that I don't have a garage. Anyway if I drive it the way it is and avoid first gear for the most part, (I can drive in reverse as long as I turn engine off first, then put it into reverse before starting again) can I drive it that way until I can find time to look inside the clutch? Would I be wearing out the pressure plate and or the bearing or something? It drives totally fine (except first gear) while the car is moving. No grinding, no problems at all. You really wouldn't know there's a problem while it's moving. Only after I come to a complete stop. Bu then I can put in second gear and start moving again just fine. Sorry, this is so long. Thoughts? Thanks, Jose

Hi,

The only way I know to check the fork is to remove and inspect it. Also, I don't see it hurting anything driving it this way other than it is an inconvenience.

If it starts getting worse, then you really should have it checked. If you plan to do it yourself, let me know.

Take care and let me know if I can help in any way.

Joe

Hi again Joe,

I have been driving the truck since last we talked. A little tough shifting at times but drivable. Yesterday I checked clutch pedal travel. Found my nut to Master Cylinder was not tight. Adjusted MC rod clockwise about 1/4 in, tightened the nut and freakin shifting is way better! Not perfect but dang near. So, So awesome. Thank you so much!!!
New question though if I may.
Heater became noisy, air flow was limited and cool.
Removed blower past Monday. Found it full of leaves. Cleaned it out and reinstalled and instantly had strong Hot air blowing. Temp gauge was at normal operating temp at this time and normal the entire time I've been driving/ Never showed signs of overheating at all.
The next day (Tuesday) I still had strong air flow, blower was working and quiet, but only blowing Cool air now.
Coolant level is good, up to neck filler tube and proper mix.
All heat controls seem to be working. I'm assuming the door(?) is opening when I switch from cool to hot, because on Monday I had heat! Hot and strong and everything working. Next day it's no longer hot and I did not do anything. Nothing at all except a visual check of coolant level, Didn't need to add any.
Temp gauge still operates normally. No overheating signs at all.
Top radiator hose gets hot, bottom hose stays cool or slightly warm.
Heater core hoses has lower one hot and upper one warm.
Assuming water pump is fine. No signs of leaking and not overheating.
So would you think my Thermostat is stuck open or closed? Maybe clogged radiator?
It did sit for 2 years but I've been driving fine since July and again no overheating symptoms. Or does it point to my heater core?
Heater core requires dash removal I think, yikes.
If it's heater core, I could use a backflush/unclog procedure process from you and hope for the best. Or if thermostat a R and R procedure for that would be appreciated.
Or radiator clogged possibility?
Lastly, some advice from you on tests to do to isolate and confirm my issue.
Thanks again so much, Jose

Hi,

Thanks for the update. I'm glad to hear it is working better for you. As far as the new question, I would be more than happy to help. However, I have a favor to ask. We try to keep the threads specific to one topic, so they are more helpful to others. Would you be able to copy and paste your new question to a new post?

Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

I really hope you understand. As far as the heat issue, I feel we can easily take care of the issue.

Take care,

Joe

I totally understand and it's not a problem. I already submitted my heater question on a new thread. You have been extremely helpful and it's very appreciated.