Will Vanos timing be off

We did the exact same thing about a month ago on a similar car. It is tough to get the timing marks right if you do not use the tools. The idea is to have the vanos all the way retracted when lining up the camshaft flats and crankshaft pin. Below are some diagrams that should help.

You can do it with the tools if the crank is pinned and you have the vanos bottomed out with the camshaft flats in the right place. Double check all so you do no need to take it apart again like we did. ;)


Check out the diagrams (below).

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the reply, and the images. I have done quite a bit DIY on many cars, but this is my first BMW so I am learning as I go. I am assuming that I must use the timing kit to resolve this issue? Correct me if I am wrong, if I use the kit, lock the cams in position on #1 TDC and pin the fly wheel the engine timing and crank timing should be right on, since the only thing that was disturbed was the secondary chain and sprocket, is that correct?

To me that would mean I only really need to reset the vanos hubs and chain to their original position, is that correct? Would it then be possible to simply turn the secondary chain/gears etc., backwards to its correct position or do I need to redo the entire secondary chain, sprocket adjustments to get them in the right place.

Additionally, when all is lined up correctly the hubs of the vanos are both pulled out from their respective gears and equal amount, (i.e both parallel to each other using the vanos alignment jig to accomplish this). Then remove the vanos jig and install the vanos (carefully this time!).

This make sense or am I missing something?

Thanks,
Pete

Hi Ken,

When you had to do this, did you do the entire timing process from scratch for the engine then the vanos or did you only lock the cams and crank at #1TDC and only do the vanos timing? Also images show tool 113-2-44, I have not seen this tool available in any of the timing kits online. Did you have one or not use one, if so where was it available from?

Thanks,
Pete

Yes, you have the right idea as far as the position of the camshafts I did mine starting at #1 TDC using the pin in the crankshaft. The tool they show is strange the ones on the internet are a newer design and work better. If you are unsure of the timing of the vanos etc I suggest getting the tool even though the first time we did the job we eyeballed it and was fine. Please shoot a couple pictures of anything you have question about I have done this job many times.

Cheers, Ken

I will upload some images, but probably will not get to do it until after the holidays since I have to order the timing kit. I am having a bit of an issue getting the correct kit. Many are on sale on eBay for reasonable prices, problem is they state they work for M54 engines but further checking indicates that many of these kits do not work on all M54's. For some reason the 2005 325i M54B25 engine I have, is not listed as fitting that particular tool. I asked the sellers to confirm their kit will work on this model, but they cannot give me a definite yes or no. If you bought yours on eBay, can you let me know who the seller was and which ad/model unit you got?

Thanks,
Pete

I got mine from eBay as well shop around because I found the kit for $450.00 down to $120.00 so keep your eye out. I cannot remember the seller but the kit should work or you may need small modification. All you need to remember is the crank pin at TDC and the flats on the camshafts with the vanos bottomed out (not advanced).

I am still learning about this beast, so not sure what you mean by "vanos bottomed out (not advanced)". Looked at quite a few YouTube videos on this. Found one that seems to explain the procedure fairly well. If you get a few minutes check this one out, see what you think. I was planning to follow this procedure, with a few exclusions. As long as its locked and #1 at TDC I think I really only need to lock down the chain tension-er for the cams with the pin, then remove the vanos gears and hubs from the unit, re-position them on the jig and replace onto the camshafts, then install the vanos alignment jig, and make sure the hubs are out where they should be, then torque the nuts, remove the jig and re-install the vanos. As far as I can determine I do not need to remove the crank tension-er or even mess with the timing of the crank or the cams, only the vanos chain and sprockets? Am I correct in doing it this way?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDpMHIaxuJU

Thanks,
Pete

Yes, it is a slightly different set up each have their own procedure. I looked at the video and it seems like he shows what you need to do. If you can please take pictures of the job and post them so I can see what you are doing so we can be on the same page. Happy Holidays!

Cheers, Ken

Once I get at it, I will take and upload images as I go. Is it possible to insert the crank lock pin without removing the starter? Book says its easier with its removed, I am debating whether it is easier to remove it from the bottom or remove the intake manifold to get at the starter from the top. Just in case I cannot get the pin in with the starter in place, which method would be easier?

Looking at the images of the cam locking plates in position, it appears they will not go on properly unless the intake manifold has been removed, am I correct in assuming it has to be off to install the tool? If it does need to come off, then the starter removal procedure becomes obvious.

Thanks for the help and the holiday wishes and happy holidays to you and yours!

Cheers,
Pete

Hi Pete,

I think you can install the pin without removing the starter last time I checked.

Hi Ken,

I have just done exactly the same thing as Pete. Surely there’s a way to just rotate the timing chain one click in the opposite direction and it will be back to normal.

I’ve been driving around with it like this and have a slightly rough idle and a hesitation at just over 4,000rpm, otherwise fine. I have fault code P0014 which says “B camshaft timing position over advanced”

I’d like to do a quick fix myself without special tools. Do you have any ideas? Or do I have to reset the timing completely?

Thanks,
James

Usually with that code the vanos or a guide is broken/not working. How many miles does the car have on it?

The car has done 122,000 miles and I’ve done 150 or so since I changed the vanos seals. I don’t think the code was there before but it’s been a while since I last checked.

I assumed that the movement of the timing chain had caused it, which would explain the idle being slightly rough and the 4,000 rpm hesitation.

The engine feels great apart from those issues and my mpg has improved so I think the vanos is working but the timing is out by a few degrees. What do you mean by a broken guide?

The timing chain guides are plastic and break often causing the timing to be off. The easier way to see what's going on is to remove the valve cover and line everything up. If everything is correct the vanos or control valve is not working. Check out the diagrams above to confirm the marks.

I plan to have a look at it tomorrow with engine at TDC and see if the marks line up. I will check the chain guides as well but they looked good last time. If that’s all okay then my next step will be the solenoids.

Thanks,
James

Good man, let me know.

With #1 TDC the left hand sprocket mark lines up with the top of the head. The exhaust cam flat was level at the back of the engine but the intake was rotated slightly clockwise.

I discovered that rotating the crank anti-clockwise from this position moved the intake cam with it but not the exhaust cam or the sprocket. The vanos helical gear pieces popped back inside the sprockets also when doing this.

So I managed to get everything looking right by eye and I put the vanos back on. Unfortunately it’s made no difference.

The guides are good and as far as I can tell I haven’t changed the vanos timing. Weird thing is that I could move the intake cam independently from the exhaust cam. I think the click I head first time round was the intake cam moving as I tightened the left hand thread bolt.

I’ve just confused myself more now but I’m pretty sure the vanos timing is good. I don’t get why cranking anti-clockwise moves only the intake camshaft though. Doesn’t sound right to me. I think this is my problem but I’m not sure. Also If the engine idles for long enough there’s quite a loud rattling sound, as if there’s a something loose moving around in the engine. Any ideas what that noise is?

Update. Problem solved.

It was the vanos solenoids. Not sure which one as I removed both and cleaned the pistons that they actuate. Didn’t seem to be anything obviously wrong but cleaning it up did the trick.

Dirt in the solenoid pistons seems to be a common cause of the P0014 fault code. Car drives beautifully now, smooth idle and no hesitation at 4,000rpm.

Thanks for your help
James

Nice work James!. Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.