Will not stay running, engine stalls while driving?

Hello,

This is a problem with the speed control switch in the right side of the steering wheel. The Speed Control Switch is used to set the vehicle'speed during cruise control. Without this switch working, your vehicle will not have cruise control. In the diagrams down below I have included the troubleshooting flowchart for both DTC P0579 and P0592. DTC P0306 is for a misfire in cylinder #6. Check the coil on plug and spark plug. That should fix the problem. Go through the flowcharts for the first two DTCs and get back to us with what you find out.

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I can do without cruise, and I doubt #6 is stopping it from starting. is there something else I should look for since that is the only codes I got?
Battery good, alternator is good. checked all relays and fuses.

Hello again,

I'm sorry. I didn't realize you had a no start condition too. Okay there are a few different ways that we can attack this problem but this is usually the best way to start out with. I have included a link down below for you to go to.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

There are three things that an engine needs to start, spark, fuel, and compression. So what we will do is test each one until we find the problem. Usually we will test in that order, also. So go through the guide listed above and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I push the gas pedal and when I reach 35 to 40 mph it starts sputtering like it wants to die on me.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.

The dealership is going to hook it up Tuesday to find the issue. They just did an oil change this past tuesday. I thought it could be from bad gas

My daughter was driving the van around most of the day, after the last stop she drove about thirty miles when she stopped at a traffic light. The van stalled at the light and only attempted to crank on the fourth try. After three miles it stalled at another traffic light. I went to get her and I drove the van back home. I only noticed a no power spot in the throttle at speed limit (fifty five) with no change in the rpm's around 1200 until the transmission down shifted when the rpm's jumped to 2300. All else seemed fine with no further problems starting. We replaced the battery and alternator back in November. No trouble lights came on and the analyzer found no codes.

Stalling while driving and then not cranking are two typical symptoms of a failing TIPM. That is the main computer controlled fuse and power distribution box located under the hood.

However, it can be difficult to diagnose if the problem is intermittent. Sometimes the actual dealer scan tool will discover failures that most other tools will not see because the factory tool can use all the various protocols to communicate with the various modules.

I can put in reverse works fine put in drive it jumps and turns off. But starts right back up.

Hello,

This sounds like the throttle bore is dirty causing the PCM to lose correlation. lets confirm the issue by following this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please run down this guide and report back.

When placed in reverse, the engine power is pulled down to the extent of stalling. When put in neutral or park, restarts immediately. Once in a while, the engine will pull down to almost a stall, then idle back up and be fine. Additionally it periodically stalls when rolling to a stop in drive. I've been throwing it in neutral before a stop to avoid the possibility of stalling. Might it be the throttle sensor? Van runs fine otherwise.

This could be a number of things. When you put the vehicle in gear the transmission is adding a load to the engine and if the air/fuel mixture is off then it will not get enough fuel and will stall.

This is usually one of three things. A dirty/faulty idle control valve, faulty o2 sensors, or even restricted injectors.

You engine uses an electronic throttle body to control idle so I would suggest with cleaning that first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

If that doesn't solve the issue then I we need to look at the PCM data with a scan tool and see what the o2 sensors are doing when this happens. I imagine they will tell us that the exhaust is lean which means the injectors are not delivering enough fuel.

Let's start with that and go from there.

Thank you. I'll take it to AutoZone or some such and have them scan it. I have a small scanner and it read bank2 o2 is bad. Can't replace til the 3rd. Consequently, my dad had shown me previously how he was checking the transmission fluid... Engine off, with the oil dipstick,.. ( no transmission stick in this vehicle). I searched YouTube and discovered that it's to be checked with engine at idle in park... Well, it was almost a quart low. Topped it off, and the stalling problem quit. Not sure if it's a coincidence or not. Still gonna get the big scanner on it and see. Thought you should know. Maybe the low fluid was affecting the throttle sensor somehow? Do not know. Thank you again. Will keep you posted.

The transmission being low on fluid probably did not cause a stall. Normally it would just cause the vehicle to feel like it was in neutral.

Yes. Please keep me posted on what you find. Thanks

Nearly every morning on the way to work, the engine will stop while the vehicle is driving. Loses all power, but the stereo stays on. Problem only seems to be when first going for the day and within the first three miles of home. Very dangerous when this does this while in traffic and have to try and pull over safely with no power in order to stop and then re-start the engine again.

A very common reason for this issue on that year is a faulty TIPM. That is the Totally Integrated Power Module. Basically the fuse box and its control hardware.
Does the check engine light come on or is it on? Usually with a TIPM failure it does not come on.

The check engine light does not come on. The ESP light does come on when it loses power. When we take it to our mechanic and they put it on their computer, there are no error codes.

That sounds like the TIPM. It will not show an error because it is basically creating an open circuit that shuts off power to the vehicles PCM. If it was watched on a scan tool it would very likely show it disconnecting the PCM just like you turned the key off.
The other item that will shut down the engine and usually not set a code would be the crankshaft position sensor. However, when those become temperature sensitive they will act somewhat predictable, the engine will shut off, the sensor cools of, the engine will restart, and it will repeat that every time the sensor hits that temperature. In your case it seems to run a bit, shut off then acts okay the rest of the day. I would start by watching the power from the TIPM and see if it is losing spark or fuel. If it is fuel (also common) there is a kit that installs to bypass the relay built into the TIPM.

So, would replacing the entire TIPM take care of the spark or fuel issue? Right now we are planning on buying one and installing it ourselves.

It would but I would test it first to see which it is. If it is fuel related the relay kit is much cheaper than replacing the TIPM and having it programmed to the vehicle.

Thanks Steve. We will give it a try.

Let us know what you find. The TIPM is one of those "why did they do this" type of parts. Virtually everything electronic on the vehicle is run through it. As an example. Take those simple headlights on the front, for years they were controlled by a simple switch, then it was a switch and relay. With the TIPM each filament is independent, right hand low beam uses a different circuit than left hand low beam. If one goes out and you check the bulb and fuse and both are good, you replace the TIPM ! Many items are the same way, Horn relay? part of the TIPM.
One minor advantage is that you can use a scan tool and dealer sales codes to activate some options like fog lights or DRL's if you do not have them.

The downside is that something that may have been a simple, replace this relay repair, now means you replace a very expensive box.

Steve W. We replaced the EGR Valve and it has taken care of the problem. Much, much cheaper fix than replacing the TIPM.

Well that is a different fix. EGR should not even be operating at that point. Was it stuck open or plugged or what? How did you determine it was the EGR? Might be something that would help others.

Not sure if it was plugged or stuck open. Mechanic had done some other research and found that this could be the problem. Said they had another Chryler vehicle in lately that had the same problem so thought it could be the same for ours as well. Sure enough, it was. Hopefully others with the same problem in the future could give this a try before replacing the TIPM.

Greatly appreciate all your help and input.

While driving, the car looses all power and shuts down. Power steering/power brakes do not work and you have to coast to a stop. Traction /Stability control light comes on instrument panel. After stopping and shutting the ignition off, the car will start right back up.

This is starting to occur frequently.

Has the check engine light come on?

The check engine light has not come on.

We've replaced battery and new wheel bearings recently.

The vehicle is listed above Grand Caravan, 6 speed automatic transmission with approximately 169,000 miles.

The engine shuts at random but usually at idle or deceleration. Unless the ignition switch is reset to accessory or off, cranking speed is very slow. Upon reset of switch to the aforementioned positions cranking speed is normal and engine restarts immediately. The throttle body was replaced by the mechanic. No codes except catalytic converter which has been replaced twice with the code returning within a few thousand miles. The engine does use oil which I believe is valve guide caused (light blue smoke, engine compression decent). There is some knock at partial throttle when climbing a hill. Vacuum is fairly steady at 20.4. No misfires detected by scanner. Timing at number one cylinder does fluctuate 7 to 10 degrees at idle. Transmission shift points seem normal although never the smoothest transmission I have known.
Acceleration to highway speeds and maintenance of highway speeds doesn't seem to be a problem until stall at deceleration which occurs at irregular intervals (Days, hours or minutes). Will any diagnostic systems be able to track this down or is this a comprehensive technician study problem? I have read several forums which indicate this is a common problem with these vans but they are usually complaints with few or no resolutions to the problem. I am 67 and have driven some lousy vehicles but this one has become a scary amusement park ride.

Hello,

This is a common problem when the TIPM goes out which is easy to replace because it self initializes. Here are the instructions in the diagrams below to help fix the problem. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

My van has stalled twice while driving on the interstate. It is just like I had truned the key off. All power is lost. I found where other people had the same problem on the internet but no solution.

Do you have any idea what the cause could be?

I made a donation last time but did not receive an answer to date.

Thanks,

Bruce Keene

Bruce,
Let me start by saying that I am sorry you received no reply. That shouldn't have happened. Regardless, I will try to help you.

When you say you loose all power, do you mean from the engine or everything like the lights, radio...?

engine was running rough took to autozone said egr valve last night i drove van and shut it off. when i went back to start it it started and died when i went to put in gear did it three times. now nothing all guages and lights work nothing when you turn it over

You can try a self-diagnostic test. To activate self diagnostic program:

With the ignition switch in the OFF position, depress the TRIP and RESET buttons.
While holding the TRIP and RESET button turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Continue to hold the TRIP and RESET buttons until the word CODE appears in the odometer windows (about five seconds ) then release the buttons. If a problem exists, the system will display Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's). If no problem exists, the code 999 (End Test) will momentarily appear.
Post all codes and we can go from there.