Will not shift when engine is on

Welcome to 2CarPros.

If it won't shift when the engine is running, then the clutch isn't disengaging. If there are no strange sounds associated with this new problem, I suspect the cable has broken or needs readjusted. Here are the directions specific to this vehicle for clutch cable adjustment. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

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clutch cable

1983 Chevrolet Chevette L4-98 1.6L
Clutch Adjustment
Vehicle Transmission and Drivetrain Clutch Adjustments Clutch Adjustment
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT


Figure 4 / See Pic 1

Figure 5 / See Pic 2



1. Perform initial ball stud adjustment as follows:

a. Place gauge J-28449 with flat end against clutch housing front face and the hooked end positioned in the bottom depression of the clutch fork, Fig. 4.

b. Turn ball inward until clutch release bearing contacts clutch spring.

c. Install and torque lock nut to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).

d. Remove gauge.

2. Attach and adjust clutch cable as follows:

a. Install clutch cable through hole in clutch fork and seat, then install return spring.

b. From engine compartment, pull cable until clutch pedal is firmly against pedal stop and hold in position, Fig. 5.

c. Install snap ring in first fully visible groove in cable from sleeve, then release cable.

d. Clutch pedal lash should be 0.58 to 1.08 in. (15-27 mm), if not, proceed to step 3.

3. If clutch pedal lash is insufficient, remove snap ring from cable and allow cable to move into dash by one cable notch, then reinstall snap ring, Fig. 5.

4. If clutch pedal lash is excessive, remove snap ring from cable, and pull cable out of dash by one cable notch, then reinstall snap ring, Fig. 5.

5. Check to ensure clutch pedal lash is 0.58-1.08 in. (15-27 mm).

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Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Thanks for the answer. This is actually a "Kit Car" on a Chevette Chassis. Here are some pictures. I am not very versed in mechanics. Applying the clutch pedal moves the lever all the way forward, when released it goes within about 3/4" of all the way.

When you try to engage the trans with the clutch depressed, does it grind as if you are not depressing the clutch?

Yes it does.

Okay, then the clutch isn't disengaging. The only thing I can say is you need to start at the pedal and work toward the clutch. Since this system isn't hydraulic, either something has broken (pressure plate, release bearing, release fork) or the cable itself is bad and out of adjustment.

haven't had time to work in this. These are latest findings: Not the cable. Won't shift with engine running, will shift with engine off. If put in gear with engine off, clutch pedal depressed, will try to move if you try to start engine. What is most likely problem (pressure plate, release bearing, or release fork.

If the cable is good, the release fork would be my first guess. A bearing will make noise, but shouldn't cause this. As far as the pressure plate, well it could be. The only way to be sure it to take things apart.

Finally able to get back to this. Clutch Fork seem intact, How do you evaluate pressure plate?

Welcome back:

As far as a pressure plate, you need to check the pressure plate springs to see if they are broken. Again, the best thing is to remove it for inspection. Does the clutch fork move when you depress the clutch? If it does, either it is broken, is disconnected from the release bearing, or the pressure plate is bad.

Let me know.
Joe

The clutch fork is supposed to move isn't it? See attached.

Welcome back:

Yes, that is what presses the release bearing against the pressure plate to disengage the transmission from the flywheel. When released, the pressure plate springs keep pressure on the clutch disc pushing it against the flywheel. When you press the clutch, that bearing releases the pressure from the pressure plate springs allowing the clutch disc and flywheel do spin freely. Do you have any pictures of the pressure plate and clutch disc?

Joe

Hard to get a picture square on.

Hi Mike:

Honestly, the pictures are fine and the pressure plate to be fine too. You didn't notice any broken springs, correct?

Joe

No Broken springs. Tried pushing on plate with a dummy donut, but it doesn't move, Shouldn't it?

The tangs (springs) around the pressure plate are what move. When the release bearing pushes against them, they should move in and release the pressure from the clutch disc and disengage the transmission. Is that what is happening? I used one of your pictures and circled where the release bearing pushes. Those tangs are very rigid, but when pressure is applied to them, their pressure is released from the disc. Are the two of them stuck together somehow?

Joe

When pressure applied to Tangs there doesn't seem to be any movement.

Something is stuck together then. Remove the pressure plate and check if the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. Something is going on there. you should be able to move the disc when the pressure plate is released. At this point, it needs to come off the engine.

Let me know.

Joe

it is off engine. the pictures I sent were of it off. The Tangs do not move and there is a gap between the nobs on the Tangs and the plate. See pictures.

Was the clutch disc stuck in anyway? So help me understand. The pressure plate is stuck in it's present position and won't release, is that correct? If that's the case, the pressure plate is bad.

No it wasn't. had pressure plate tested, it is good. We removed Flywheel and had it turned. We are now trying to put it back together. We are having trouble putting the drive shaft on. The trunnion caps don't want to seat in the cups. One side will go in but not the other? Must be a trick to getting them both to seat?

We decided we want to replace the U-Joint. Couldn't find YouTube video the was like ours. How do we replace? Is the circled area a removable pin? Two in each side. If so how?

Welcome back:

I believe that is nylon. If you heat it with a torch, it should come out like a worm all by itself once it gets hot enough. It must be the original parts. The replacement joints will come with a C-clip for each side to hold things together.

Let me know if that helps.

Take care,
Joe

You were right they came out with heat. We have it together but still not shifting with engine running. No longer any grinding, just wont move out of neutral position. Will go through all positions easily with engine off.

Welcome back:

Isn't that an interesting way to remove a U joint? lol I haven't done one of those in a long time.

Still the clutch isn't disengaging? I am going to get the site's owner involved. Great guy and may have some insight for both of us at this point. If you see a response from Ken, that's him.

I will watch what he suggests.

Joe

On the clutch is sounds like you have a bent pressure plate which will never release. Make sure the transmission does not "hang" while engaged into the clutch disc without having the mounting bolts to hold it. Get a new clutch kit. here is a the correct way to install a clutch.

https://youtu.be/6N6b5F2ChyE

This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/clutch-doesnt-work-sometimes-or-not-at-all

Please run down this guide and report back.

The video is for a front wheel drive, mine is rear wheel.
We took the pressure plate to a clutch and brake place to have it tested. It tested fine.
Going to disassemble again.
Not sure about testing for hang, have to leave transmission fluid in transmission when taking apart?

The hang is when the transmission is getting installed and it not fully bolted to the engine it can hang on the clutch disc via the input shaft which bends the disc.

and the saga continues... Where can I get the part number for the clutch fork/release lever? Haven't been able to find one online. Want to replace it and the rest of the stuff that goes with it. It looks like the release bearing doesn't move forward enough.

Try RockAuto.com or its going to be a wreaking yard the only place you will find parts for this car.

Don't think release bearing is putting pressure on clutch plate.

Welcome back:

It doesn't look like it was touched. Are you certain the fork is installed correctly? Are you sure it isn't bent? The only other things are the cable or a wrong part.

Let us know.

Joe

That is why sent picture of fork. Does it look bent to you? The clutch disc and clutch plate match the old ones. When it is assembled the clutch fork is all the way forward, I would think it should be part way back. I don't see how the fork could get bent as it is pretty heavy steel. We have removed and reinstalled the fork, but cannot get it to move the bearing far enough forward. Could the bearing not be tall enough?

Yes is could, do you have much play in the clutch fork?

Dummy of the year award here. The fork pin was in original position, Backed it off and now have about 3/8" coverage of splines fork forward and 3/8" of smooth shaft showing fork back. Is this about right or should there be more forward?

Welcome back:

That should be close enough so it can be adjusted with the cable if it needs more.

Let me know if it takes care of the problem.

Joe

It's finally functioning, Thanks for all your help.
Now on to next problems.

Welcome back:

Glad you got it working. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Take care,
Joe