will crank but not start

The first thing to do is see if the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay is turning on. Use a test light to back-probe the dark green/orange wire at the ignition coil pack, any injector, or either smaller terminal on the back of the alternator. You will see the test light turn on for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. What is important is if it turns on again during cranking. If it does not, the two suspects are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. Those often do not set diagnostic fault codes just from cranking the engine. When that happens, you need a scanner to view those sensor signals. Both sensors will be listed as "no' or "present" during cranking.

How critical is the timing? does it have to be center between the dots? because the left one is center but the right one is on the dot. Also, can I jumper the ADS relay just to see if it will crank? Thanks for all your help caradiodoc.

Okay I unplugged coil on number one cylinder took my test light hooked one end to negative battery post and stuck probe into the spade of the green wire turned key to on (test light lit up) slight pause tried to crank (test light did not light up) so I am guessing this means no spark,right? Also tried jumping 30 and 87 on ASD relay test light stayed lit through (oncrank) but nothing. no start. Could it be PCM or possibly anti theft kicking in? however, the security light on dash is not on or flashing. Just to add this the key can be pulled out in any position could that have anything to do with it?

Jumping the ASD relay isn't going to help. The Engine Computer turned it on for that one second when you turned on the ignition switch. That proves the relay and all it's wiring and circuitry are okay, and the computer has control of it. The fact the computer doesn't turn it back on during cranking is because it doesn't know the engine is rotating, and that is because the signal is missing from the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. When there is no fault code to say which signal is missing, you need a scanner to view those sensors. They will be listed with a "No" or "Present" during cranking.

Be aware too there should be a new fault code set related to the ignition coil you unplugged. That could confuse someone in the near future but it will self-erase after 50 engine starts. Normal procedure is to poke the probe of the test light into the connector, alongside the wire, through the rubber seal. Also, it makes me nervous when the terminal in the connector is probed. If you stick it in too far, it can spread the terminal. That is a common cause of intermittent connections days or months later.

How can I test crank sensor and cam sensor and how critical is timing marks and thanks again for all your help

Went to pick and pull today and picked up a crankshaft sensor came home and put it in and what you know it started so I just want to say thank you soo much for all your help Caradiodoc you made my wife's day . Thank you

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken

No, no, no. It has to be diagnosed first!

Actually, diagnostic fault codes don't always set for the cam and crank sensors right away or just during cranking. In that case you have to use a scanner to view them and see if they're listed with a "No" or "Present" to indicate whether their signals are showing up at the Engine Computer.

Regardless, very happy to hear you solved it.