CV Axle Replacement

Good evening,

Can you upload a video of the noise? What side axle is bad? The price is outrageous. Let me know which one so I can get you an estimate..........

Roy

I would have the wheel bearing checked as they are more likely the noise rather than the axle. An axle will make a clicking noise when it is failing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bearing-hub-replacement

Roy

Axle: front axle hub: on-vehicle inspection; 2009 my camry [01/2008 - ]
Remove front wheel
Separate front disc brake caliper assembly [ axle: front axle hub: removal+ ]
Remove front disc [ brake: front brake: disassembly+ ]
Inspect front axle hub bearing looseness

Using a dial indicator, check for looseness near the center of the axle hub.

image
Maximum:

0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)

NOTICE:

Ensure that the dial indicator is set perpendicular to the measurement surface.

HINT:

If looseness exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.

INSPECT FRONT AXLE HUB RUNOUT
Using a dial indicator, check for runout on the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt.

image
Maximum:

0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)

NOTICE:

Ensure that the dial indicator is set perpendicular to the measurement surface.

HINT:

If runout exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.

Install front disc [ brake: front brake: reassembly+ ]
Install front disc brake caliper assembly [ axle: front axle hub: installation+ ]
Install front wheel

Torque : 103 Nm (1,050 kgf-cm, 76 ft-lbf)

A month or so ago, I replaced the springs on a 2007 Camry 3.5 SE. While the strut was out, the weight of the hub/brake assembly on the front driver's side caused it to lean out, away from the motor, pulling the axle with it. The axle did not pull out from the transmission housing (as far as I can tell), but the inner boot of the CV joint did stretch out (accordion style). The inner boot did not tear or come loose. Simply pushing the hub/brake assembly back wouldn't allow whatever parts within the inner boot-end of the axle to mesh. I had to spin the axle slightly to get the parts within the inner end of the axle to marry in order for everything to go back in place as it was. Everything seemed fine, but upon replacing my brakes, I see a thin ring of thick lube on all the surfaces around the CV joint, where it has "spun" out (centrifugal force) from the inner most edge of the inner boot. The boot has no tears or damage that I can see, and it still looks to be correctly in place. Running my fingers along the inner edge of the boot, it feels like the inner boot may have some flanges along the inner surface of its larger (motor/transmission side) end that perhaps fit over the metal portion of the assembly that keep it from pulling apart, but I'm not positive, never having seen this assembly taken apart. I've included a pic with red arrows pointing at part of the "ring of lube"? What happened inside the CV boot while it was stretched out, to cause this? Can I removed the metal strap and pull the boot towards the hub/brake assembly to inspect whatever is under it without removing the axle/CV joint?

Looks like grease leaked out of the boot for reason.Your best bet would be to replace the boot with a split boot or replace the whole axle your choice Whole axles are pretty cheap these days.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

I realize it's leaking for some reason. If the boot is in Place and intact, y is it leaking? I'm guessing I dislodged the grease from inside the actual joint, which caused it to migrate towards the boot and eventually spin out. Could the outward movement cause damage to the joint excluding the boot? R u familiar with the design of the boot on this model car, in so far as can it be pulled back so I can visually inspect the joint?

There is only really two types of boot materials one is rubber and one is hard plastic.What is it you wish to see pulling the boot back?You really arent going to see excessive wear etc the joints really dont wear out so to speak.The main reason for replacing a joint or axle is from a torn or leaking boot then the joint failing from lack of grease.Heres my rule of thumb if the boot leaks for any reason i replace the boot or axle which is ever more cost effective.Sure you can pull the boot back but your going to have to undo the two clamps and replace the clamps.Just replace the boot you can probably get a split boot so you wont have to remove the axle.

The reason it probably leaked was because you pulled the axle back out of the joint pretty far.Then when it went back in the grease got pumped and built up pressure causing the grease to leak from the boot.

Yea. Dislodged grease from joint into boot was my uneducated guess. I was curious if if I could pull the flexible rubber boot back off the joint, pack more grease in there and re-strap it secure. I REALLY don't wanna replace anything unless absolutely necessary. Thanks

If the boot isnt damaged you could do that but probably betime you buy the grease and clamps that could buy you a boot kit.Price it out.

If there is lube getting thrown around the boot is leaking from some where. If it just happened reboot it or new axle. Split boots never seal well. The quicker you fix this the better. If you let it go to long you will need an axle and or a joint.

Hypothetically speaking, if a boot isn't cut or loose, how would the grease get out? Is the seal loose enough for hot/thinned/displaced lube to spin out? I'm curious how long its been there. I've read there could be a vacuum in the boot if sealed really tight. Could pushing the axle back in, force the grease out due to the internal air pressure?
I could replace the boot, but I REALLY don't wanna do all that labor unless absolutely necessary. I'd like to make the repair "in place" if at all possible.
I'd never use a split boot

Meant to say... Could pushing the CV joint back together inside the boot, force the grease out due to the internal air pressure?

I already went over this yes you can pump grease out like you were saying.I didnt know if the grease was there before stretching the axle out.I have also seen the axle grease thin and leak with no visable damage to the boots.I would just replace if in doubt of the cause of the leak.

Ahhhhh... Yes, you did say that already. My bad.
It wasn't there before. My baby is squeaky clean, haha

preciate it!!!!

Your welcome thats what were here.

my driver side cv axle keeps popping out of the trans.when driving i can hear a noise it sounds like a clicking sound but at the same time a grinding sound.the only thing i can figure is the passenger side cv is pushing the driver side out somehow no shop can tell me what is going on with it one place said it sounds like i got the wrong one but its identical to the old on exactly pls help me what is this sound and why dose this keep happening? btw i replaced both cv axles they had both broke on me first driver side then passenger.

The axle shaft do not meet each other so it is not possible for the passenger side to be pushing out the other.

Check the locking clip of the shaft. If it is weak, it would result in the shaft popping out.

i checked that it is locking in fine but is not staying in even had a shop put it in still did it.

somehow something is pushing or pulling it out it lockes in once i start driving it pops out.

and its 89 not 99 messed up

For this model, the shaft is rather tight and quite often we have difficulty removing the shaft.

Something is not correct and it could be the length of the joint that plugs in.

If your old shaft is still available, compare their length.
Did you compare the length of the complete shaft before installing?

Remoe the central locking nut and push the sgaft as far as it can go in. The tip of the shaft should be almost completely level with the hub flange. If it is going in further than that, the length of the shaft could be too short.

I would be fitting a new "C" retaining clip on the shaft.

khlow2008 i matched the two up when i got the new one but i no longer have the old one
mhpautos the shaft is new the clip is in normal condition i dont think that is the problem
can anyone tell me what the noise is it sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the tranny or where the cv connects to the tranny

Some C-clips are not strong if it is not OEM so I agree with mhpautos about replacing it.

What type of noise are you getting?
When does the noise occur?

its a clicking sound when the car is moving rather if its on or not it dose it while in motion

Does it occur on straight lines or only when making turns?

strait lines

Straight line noises are usually caused by axle shafts or wheel bearings.

Are the axle shafts rebuilt or completely new?

If rebuilt, you could have a bad bearing inside the joints.

one is rebuilt the other is new

Have you made absolutely sure that the outer shaft is fully located in the hub and the nut is the correct torque?

Just replaced front passenger CV axle. How can I know if the CV axle shaft has been installed properly into the transaxle without driving it? Afraid to test it and break something if not fully inserted.

yes i have

The inner CV joint is spring-loaded to hold the housing into the transmission. If it was not fully inserted, you wouldn't have been able to reconnect the lower ball joint. Once everything is assembled, but just before you install the axle nut, press in on the outer CV joint's stub shaft with your thumb. It should take significant effort, but it will move in a good half inch, then it will pop back out under that spring pressure.

The most common mistakes with this job have to do with that axle nut. It must be tightened to specs with a click-type torque wrench, and it absolutely must be tightened before any vehicle weight is set down on the tire. Failure to do either of those will instantly make the wheel bearing noisy. Many do-it-yourselfers set the vehicle on the tire to hold the axle shaft from spinning when they try to tighten the nut. Instead, just drop a punch or screwdriver into one of the cooling slots in the rotor before the wheel is installed, then tighten the nut. The torque spec is 217 foot pounds.


You might find some more information in this article:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

apart from weak C-clips, the other possibilities are :

1. Incorrect shaft, could be the length of the joint is too short. After pushing in the joint, check if it is easy to get dislodged when you pry at it gently. You should have a feeling of the clip in position.

2. The differential is bad. The housing for the shaft is worn/bad resulting in the C-clip not holding the shaft in position. If the complete shaft is too short, the inner joint would more likely to separate from the shaft rather than the inner joint coming out.

Okay, sounds like I got it right. Thank you so much for your assistance. I appreciate you.

Time to check the inner spline in the trans axle for wear or damage, the only thing that holds the shaft in is the "C" clip, so the problem will be in that end, i would also put the car on a hoist and check for any movement in the position of the shaft end with the steering on full lock, make sure that there is nothing causing the shaft to tension up with an outward tension on lock causing the clip to disengage.